OkobojiEagle

First, I don't need another fishing rod! I have a 7' Fenwick HMG that throws ~1/2oz spinnerbaits pretty well, but... I was handling a 7' 10" mf crankbait rod 3/8 - 1oz lure rating and began wondering how it would throw my open-water spinnerbaits. Anybody throw spinnerbaits with a rod of this length? Opinions, comments? oe

What use are the answers to this question if you don't know what structure, cover or species these baits are being fished. oe

Posted December 27, 2015 My experience with Gliss appears to be somewhat different than many of the reports I've read... ...The 19lb. version I continued to fish almost exclusively through Sept., Oct. and Nov. It behaved very similarly to the 6lb. Fireline I'm very familiar with except the casting distance was initially improved. As I got into Oct. I noticed the coating was wearing off and it began to fray. By the end of Oct. I found and cut off significant abrasions, some 20' - 30' up the line. On a couple of occasions I lost ~2lb. walleye to line breakage several feet above the terminal connection. Along with the abrasions I noticed the line no longer out distanced the 6lb. Fireline when casting. I ended my fishing season being disappointed with the 19lb. Gliss when comparing it to the 6lb. Fireline and will throw this well worn line away before spring. I have never thrown any other PE line away because of wearing... even after several years of fishing it. That's my story with Gliss. (edit: the 19lb Gliss was always fished with a 6lb. mono-filament leader of 6' - 2' length) oe

serrated blades... oe

There is plenty of good information on these boards if you pry it loose with persistent questioning.

I don't think of Rogues as being shallow running (4' - 6')... Rapala Flat Raps if you can find any left on Ebay. oe

Joshfrombolo: Did you get your side plate off? I want to emphasize what's already been written above... The "thumb screw" looking latch pin on the opposite side of the BB-1 reel is spring loaded and pulls straight away from the reel. Hold the latch pin away from the reel as you twist the side plate up to take it off. This is different than a Revo (and maybe other reels) which have a threaded latch pin and require un-screwing the pin! oe

yes. As I get more comfortable with a process, I will pay less attention to little details in the process and the smallest details will sometimes make a large difference in the outcome of the process. Pay attention to tightening the knot smoothly and slowly completely bathing it in copious amounts of saliva. oe

I don't know if its being exaggerated, but who's doing the complaining, the bass or the bass anglers? oe

use smaller diameter lines... oe

... or maybe like a limp mono-filament. Which is just how I like it. oe

Rubbing beeswax or paraffin wax on zipper teeth helps maintain easier running and extends zipper life. (Every house shop should have one or both of these waxes because they have many uses!) oe

Disclaimer: I fish with Pflueger Supremes not Presidents and I use reel sizes 25, 30 & 35 all are loaded with 8lb PE line. Which size reel mates with which reel is determined mostly by which reel balances the rod best and to a lesser extent reel gear ratio. I believe both the reasons you are stating to justify your reel size decision are better influenced by the line you choose to fill the spool. oe

From my perspective, because they don't know how to back-reel... oe

... and water clarity can change significantly throughout the year, so using clarity as a gauge can be "murky" at best. oe

Posted June 11 Now that this thread has run it's course, it might be a good time to mention the importance of level wind maintenance. The worm gear in the level wind is more exposed than the spool bearings and should be more frequently cleaned and lubed. It's exposed in the front of the reel where the line will bring water and lake gunk to deposit in the gear housing. Without taking anything apart on the reel the worm gear can be cleaned with a little soapy water and a child's nylon toothbrush. After thoroughly scrubbing the gear, I use a can of compressed air and blow out the housing. I let it dry for a bit and liberally lubricate the worm gear on both sides of the pawl running the pawl across the worm gear several times. Obviously, cleaning the level wind worm gear should be done as often as a build-up of gunk can be seen and that might be after every trip if the fishing conditions are very sloppy, but even if you fish really clean water it should be re-lubed more frequently than you'd realize as the water carried and deposited by the line in the housing will wash off the lube quickly. The result isn't apparent immediately, but a pawl will wear and need replacement much more quickly when not well lubed. oe A little more expanding Papa Joe's thoughts from a couple of weeks ago...

You may want to check if the gear ratio and/or drag disc size differs between sizes oe

Sorry someone felt the need to move this post. It's about the angler's courage in using this technology rather than about the trolling motor... oe

BlueBasser... have you fished this: https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/catpage-ZORROBAITS.html?from=basres oe

I'm confident many members own one of the remote controlled trolling motors, BUT how many of you trust it enough to spot lock a distance away from the dock while you park or retrieve your vehicle? I haven't been that brave yet... oe

I've never had an issue re-spooling PE line and I've done it many times. I wouldn't re-spool a monofilament line. oe

... or you unknowingly hook something behind you with your bait!?

A 4" carriage bolt, 2 washers and a wing nut will do the job as suggested above... then hang onto this new tool as you'll probably need it again & again & again! oe

You will often read (or be told) to fill your spool full to achieve maximum distance... bull-fertilizer, distance shouldn't be your objective when you're learning. A 3/4 full spool of line is much easier to control. A side-arm cast with a slightly upward motion is also easier to control. oe

I can't visualize how that's happening, because I know you're keeping constant tension on the line with a slight bow in the rod. oe