RoLo

I would say that John & Stratos gave you good advice. A great deal of time can be wasted by chasing "arches" and "blips", because fish markings cannot determine species nor disposition. To answer your question, I've found that unless the water is quite shallow and clear, bass are not inclined to flee from a boat. In 6 to 12-ft of water your depth sounder is probably your most valuable asset. However, the lion's share of pitching & flipping takes place in the last five feet of water, where your "eyes" are your most valuable asset (weed pockets, dense clumps, mixed vegees ~~) Roger

Normally, I don't even think about bedding bass until New Years Day. But now I might push that out to February 1st ;D Roger

Lead, don't follow Roger

Garmin Bathymetric Maps http://www8.garmin.com/cartography/inland/Inland_Lakes_List.pdf I also use the latest Navionics cartography in a Lowrance chartplotter, but their high-def chart of Kissimmee begins at the 6-ft contour line (virtually useless in a natural lake) Roger

In a really big sea I'd rather be in an aluminum pike boat, than a glass bass boat (I've done both). I ran a Tracker Sweet-16 in Georgian Bay, Lake Huron for a week without any hardship. It only had "tiller" steering though, so I really needed push-pull steering for crossing those large bays in a crosswind (sponson-resistance on one arm was tremendous). We also spent a week at Bass Islands, Lake Erie with a fiberglass 17.5-ft Bass-Boat and that was a fiasco. We pounded so hard for so long that my Anchormate finally ripped loose from the bow, and the 12-lb anchor missed my head by inches. One day for kicks, I left my Deep-V center-console at home and took the bass boat out for a spin in Sandy Hook Bay, NJ. It only took about 15 minutes to take a wave over the bow, and watching the water pour into my cockpit-well reminded me of Niagara Falls. Anyway, since I already owned two Trackers in the past, I wanted to give some other brand a try. I narrowed the choice of aluminum boats down to Tracker, Xpress, Fisher, Polar Kraft, Lowe and Triton. Many of the competing brands are using sheet plastic filler-caps, nylon drain plugs and pin-mount seats without a base flange. Going in the other direction, the larger Trackers have 4 wide gunwales, bow protector and a full-length rub-rail. Though it's not something I was looking for, our third Tracker also has drink holders and lure trays on the bow deck : IMO though, the most important difference is hull configuration, and of course, weight. Note the dry weight, squat down and view the hull at the bow, then check the deadrise at the transom. Good luck with your Revolution hull, I'd say you did your homework. Roger

Snook, any Ceros mixed in? Roger

That is certainly true, but not without some give-and-take. A spongy rod is also beneficial during an aerial leap, but the stiffer rod will provide the highest percentage of hook-sets beyond the barb. Roger

Thank You

Excellent! Definitely the "wrong" set-up, but it kinda goes back to: "All your fishing can be done with one rig. Three are all you really need." 8-) I'll drink to that Better to be a master of one trade, than mediocre at all trades. Roger

Wouldn't that be "El Sugaro"? Roger

But Catt's boat is only 15-ft long, which means there's no room for me ;D Sounds like a pregnant idea Dwight, but I'll be the brain-picker Roger What Catt owns is not what Catt has access to I'm ready Tom. How many rods may Dwight and I take along? Roger

I should have mentioned that NONE of the small aluminum boats that made up the saltwater mosquito fleet were jonboats (prams) or flat-bottomed boats. In a nasty head sea with spindrift and breaking crests, a true Deep-V hull is unparalleled. The traditional bass-boat hull is a trihedral hull like a catamaran, which is actually two deep-Vs for increased stability-at-rest. As mentioned earlier, Bass Tracker's "Revolution" hull is a cross between Deep-V and Modified-V. The Revolution hull drafts less water than a true Deep-V and gets better mileage. It also has superior stability-at-rest and when trolling or drifting. Compared to a flat-bottomed boat or true Modified-V, the Revolutiion hull can travel much faster in heavy seas without pounding or slapping. Boats that ride the hardest in heavy seas usually lack sufficient weight for conditions, have insufficent wave-cutting angle at the bow and/or insufficient deadrise at the transom. With regard to ride, the big difference between an aluminum hull and a glass hull is "weight". That is to say, a light fiberglass hull like my 24-ft Hydrasport (kevlar) would not ride as soft as an aluminum hull of greater weight (the Hydraport CC was a pounder). It's important to remember that choosing a hull design is "always" a compromise. There is no best hull, but there is a best hull for each wave configuration at a given headway. Bottom Line: You can't have it both ways. To that end, here's a funny story that I have to share: I ventured a couple miles offshore in my 14-ft Starcraft, the target was whiting (silver hake). The dry weight of that boat was 200 lbs and the sea was littered with ground swells that day. Due to the distance between waves crests, a 14-ft hull merely rose-and-fell with each passing roller. Low and behold, a 27-ft Coast Guard cutter pulled alongside my boat. One of the boatman hollered something like: "Captain, we suggest you move closer to shore, we don't want a Mayday". That was good advise indeed, so I obediently though reluctantly moved my boat closer to shore. That by the way, put me out of range of ling and whiting. Here's the funny part. As they were issuing their warning I was sitting comfortably in my little rowboat with my hands folded in my lap (rising and falling gently in the swells). Meanwhile, the three deckhands on the Coast Guard Cutter had white-knuckled grips on the grab rails, as their bodies were heaved rudely back-&-forth. Not to be disillusioned, if the wave configuration had changed that day, their boat would begin looking better and better in the ocean, while mine would've turned into a deathtrap! Roger

Me too -or should have. But I've been made a sucker before. Seems there are A LOT of rods to choose from. Would like to have them all lined up next to a pool ready for testing. Roger, what Okuma rod is it you like so much? The lime-green bookends are both Okuma Concept C3 spinning rods [ C3-S-661MH ] Lure Wgt: 1/4 to 1 oz <> Line Wgt: 10 to 20 lb <> 6' 6 (1-pce) <> Action: Fast <> $150 Titanium Guide Frames Zirconium Inserts <> Fuji Reel Seat (ported) <> Carbon Grips (no cork) Paul, I'm not excited about my Kistler Helium ll LTX (in center), and certainly do not recommend those Daiwa Advantage reels. I had the Daiwa reel apart and was pretty disappointed. For instance, a looong bail-spring is used to forestall crystallization (work-hardening), but the bail does not close completely every time, which is totally unacceptable. Shimano has me over a barrel, I'm sticking with the posse Roger

Yes, I've fished Manahawkin Impoundments 1 & 2, as well as Lower Shannoc Pond, Stafford Forge Pond and Turnmill Pond. But frankly, I utilized that area more for waterfowling, a great place for black ducks, pintails and baldpates. Harrisville Lake? Now you're cooking with gas! The Wading River is my old stomping grounds, which forms Harrisville Lake. You can put in at Chips Folly near 542 (assuming it's still there) or at the canoe rentals in Harrisville. You will likely be the only pickerel fisherman for miles, and the Wading River is deemed the wildest river in the state of New Jersey. I'm jealous already Roger

As most know, I'm currently in the market for a new rod, and the Carbonlite gives me one more option. Although this may sound off-the-wall, the price-point of the Carbonlite tends to scare me off. Throughout the years I've had the opportunity to fish with nearly all the rod brands out there (not all). With regard to my replacement rod, I'm thinking seriously about several brands such as St Croix, Daiwa, Okuma, Dobyns and yes, the Johnny Morris Elite (Kistler not). The Okuma I now use is much more rod than I paid for. My wife however, complains that the grip over time becomes uncomfortable for her. I wouldn't even bring that up, but IMO Lois is a better judge of blank sensitivity and nuances than myself. Incidentally, her favorite rod of all is the Johnny Morris Elite, and I've bought her rods worth twice the price. Roger

As I recall, spinning tackle started in Europe and didn't really get going in the states until the 1950s. As a kid, my first rod was a metal baitcaster with a round reel filled with braided dacron, but was soon upgraded to a Shakepeare rod with a Garcia baitcasting reel. Then one day while fishing with dad, I saw my first spinning outfit. Some hotshot came by our boat, and with a flick of the wrist his lure sailed farther than my best cast. After saving up my allowances I bought my first spinning outfit, a blue Conolon rod with a black Mitchell 300 reel. Long accurate casts were the norm, and bird nests were now out of my lifeI thought I was in heaven. Today, I use spinning tackle for every cast-intensive technique, even swimbaits up to 8 inches. For everything else I use baitcasting gear, such as live bait fishing, drifting, trolling and most ocean fishing. I have a fortune in conventional tackle that's basically collecting dust in my den :-X Roger

I excel at making moot points LOL. I have been doing battle with life and am now coming off the ropes. You will see me around more now. Good to see there is still some lively discussions going on. Ronnie Well that's the best news I heard today. Ron, I'll be looking forward to reading your posts. Roger

You make a moot point Ronnie. More importantly, where have you been fellow, I missed you on the boards. Roger

If they did deny it they have the serial number probably in the computers that he already sent it in to be covered by the warranty. If they did deny it they have the serial number probably in the computers that he already sent it in to be covered by the warranty. You got it Nick. I was offered their Xpeditor service "before" I shipped the broken rod. Since my claim was legitimate, and not the result of a mishap, I seen no reason why I should give Loomis/Shimano another $50 for a rod already paid for. My rod did not fail as a result of mishap or mistreatment, it failed in the line-of-duty. It appears to me now, that very few anglers take the road that I took, but jump for the Xpeditor game (I'm sure Shimano/Loomis prefers that). Everyone knows that rod failure typically occurs early-on, but my gut tells me that Shimano felt guarded in their decision to deny my replacement blank based solely on that premise. As I stated earlier, I inspected the blank before I shipped it out, and nothing as simple as a fibroid rupture is going to escape detection by a 5x eye-loop. In other words, if the rod was fractured would I have denied the Xpedictor service? Would I have paid for shipping? Of course not, I would have jumped on the $50 offer, and Shimano/Loomis would be happy. Again, they didn't even see fit to reimburse us for shipping cost. Roger

But Catt's boat is only 15-ft long, which means there's no room for me ;D Sounds like a pregnant idea Dwight, but I'll be the brain-picker Roger

Unless the scenario has changed since I last fished Chatsworth, there are two spots where I put in. Approaching the lake from the village of Chatsworth (Ocean Spray Cranberries) the first clearing on your right (right front corner of lake) is a decent launching spot, and the best spot for shore fishing, but the shoreline is wild and the going is slow. I typically fished Chatsworth with a 10-ft cartopper, and continued just past the Lake then took the first nondescript sand road into the piney woods. The narrow sandy road meanders through the pine trees and ends up at the lake shore. If you paddle to the left, the first thing you'll encounter is a cranberry runnel entering the lake on your left (wooden frame). If you continue north into the shallow-water arm of Chatsworth, you'll likely encounter a drove of small chains (snakes under 18"). Pay dirt for us was the large center bay that's strewn with stickups and lined with wild rice. Bring a portable depth sounder and locate the deepest holes in the middle bay. You'll find that most food shelves are around 30" deep and the lake basin is about 7 ft deep, plenty deep enough for pickerel. In spring, you can enjoy an action-packed day with a 1/2oz Johnson Spoon with grub trailer. Only once did we see any other anglers. It was two fellows in a canoe who were only there about 20 minutes until they capsized their canoe. They immediately left the lake, soaking wet and laughing. Again, if you want to get into the big boys, it's Wading River and Mullica River. Roger

Very nice chains D4! Sure reminds me of ice-fishing on Budd Lake and Cranberry Lake. Roger

Where did I say I was denied the Xpediter service? Read Bantam's post Not at all...you're entitled to your opinion. I see more cause for laughter than anger. Roger

Ah the Baron is back! Did you give up on the St John's River drainage? Steve P is correct, it's the South Florida Water Management District that physically sprays the lakes, but I'm sure the decision-making process extends to the FWC. The South Florida District is a gerrymandered jurisdiction that stretches from Miami-Dade all the way north to Lake County (through central Florida). Baron, the state spray programs are highly effective, and ever since the hurricane-trio of 2004, the state is staying well ahead of the curve and I suppose they intend to keep it that way. Does anyone remember when the WMD spray helicopter crash landed in 2008? It crashed in Lake Toho near Southport. Roger