CJ

I use only real bucktail. I guess I'm lucky cause I got some really nice ones with long hairs(5-6 in.) I tied the lure in the pic, it measures a little over 7 in. The thing with these jigs are that I wouldn't call the technique "finesse" at all. If anybody watches Bassfest, you will see it's more of a power technique and it's deadly.

YUP. So was Edwin Evers and a lot of the elites.

The hackle feathers serve as a trailer. They have a subtle kick with just a straight retrieve. I've been throwing 5/8, 3/4, and 1 oz. pending on depth and wind. 5/8 for 8-10 fow, 3/4 for 10-16 fow, and 1 oz. up to 25 fow. On windy days I may go a little heavier. I also use heavier ones if the fish are off the side of the ledge to keep better contact and to get a more vertical fall.

I'm sure many of you have known about bucktail jigs but I myself just got on board! I was throwing the Prayer jig by Cumberland Pro but stock has dried up around here so I started making my own. Plus I made a giant version around 7 in. long! Big fish catcher! I guess this should go in the tackle making section but I was wondering who all has had success with them and what presentations have worked best? I like to reel it and kill it!

WOW! Awesome video and cool technique. Those were some giants for sure! Thanks for sharing.

I use baitcasting for 110's. I agree the hooks will flex/straighten as others have mentioned. I set my drag properly but one thing I do is free spool the bigger fish. The fish in my avatar were caught on 110's. Smallies will do a number on those hooks unless you play the fish out and I found free spooling to work great.

Less than 1 in. vis, WOW! We are along way from each other but one thing fish do around here is get right on the bank. Usually steep and rocky banks. Not that all the fish will go there but that seems to be where they are catchable.

One of my favorite ways to catch bass on deep structure is to rip a jig 6-7 ft. off the bottom. We call it stroking. You see less of it nowadays with new lures and methods such as giant spoons and swimbaits but the jig has and always will catch em. But thats on a lake the fish are known to go 20, even 30 ft. deep.

I must agree LBL is an outdoorsman's paradise. It has a sad history but no need to get into that.

Hands down it's Texas. Florida has lil' deer. Cali has crazy laws. Kentucky and Tennessee lack salt water but KY is coming on with monster whitetail and the fishing isn't shabby.

I got entered up in the BBWC. Got my ruler in the mail, carefully laminated it, and left it on the counter. I don't know that this fish would have locked down my state but she woulda been pretty stout. Weighed in at 7-1 on my scales. Still enjoyed catching her!

That's very common with Rapala nowadays. Don't make them like they use to.

Awesome story and way to go!

Dale, good question. Most balsa or well built balsa cranks have a harness wired through system. Some are just screw in eyelets some are wired through to the line tie as in the old Shad Raps(had a drum rip an old shad rap and seen how they were made)and glue in lips. The DTseries as of late are just glued in lips and I've lost a few fish due to this. I've relied on more molded cranks since. Where this crank has been damage there is no concern IMO, unless Bagley's has taken the cheaper route. I really don't know. I would just chuck this crank in the box for a winter time project unless it was one of those "fish catchers" then I still would worry that any repair would change the action.

I hate to dispute but clear nail polish won't hold up on a contact crank. Ask any experienced custom crank maker.

Good call. I think VersaChem is the same as Devon. Anyway, it's 2 Ton Clear Weld Epoxy. It shows 30 minute set time. I think it's a must for every serious bass angler. I've fixed crank baits, rods, etc. with it. The 30 minute used to not be availible in my neck of the woods. Found some earlier this year. Looks like a balsa crank that the topcoat and paint just got busted. I would coat the whole lure after removing the hooks and o-rings and avoid the lip. I would also start with a good bit right on the crank then brush in the whole bait. It will level itself while you hang it. some will drip to the end. Just take a razor and cut excess off the back eyelet.

Plumbers glue wont last. Just get some 5 minute epoxy at a local automotive store. Make sure you mix it by the instructions. Brush on with a cheap brush and hang it by the line tie overnight. Make sure it dries clear(it will say on the package).

Other than what is required by the coast guard and what others have mentioned: zip ties! prop pins a bottle of Catch and Release (this stuff can save a gill hooked or bled fish' life by rubbing some on the spot, not all of them but some)

That's crazy! I had a gull do the same thing to me years ago. Flew right into my line after a cast and the line wrapped around both legs. It was a perfect heal. With the help of my dad and the dip net we finally got all the line cut and freed up the gull. A hawk on the other hand would have been scarey to deal with. They could do some damage with those talons. Glad everybody made it through the incident safely.

I fish the 6XD on 10# flouro=around 16-17 ft. Spro Lil' John DD=around 16-18 ft. I don't like the DT20 Best crank for 20+ IMO, is the 6th Sense 500 Crush. I throw it on 12# = 25 ft. Slightly smaller profile than the 10XD, much tighter wobble, much less drag. It's becoming a favorite of the Elites.

Check out Ego's rubber nets. I've had the same problems in the past. I got an Ego a couple years ago and problem solved. They are a little pricey but worth every cent.

Sweet!!! I haven't gotten into a good school of smallies this year. Proud and jealous of you.

I'm not very smart as far as websites go but I want to try and explain why repeat threads are frowned upon. First, don't be afraid to start a thread after putting some thought into it. That's what the sight is for. It's not that some of us that have been on here for a long time are rolling are eyes saying,"we've already talked about this". That's not the issue. Bass Resource has outgrown itself more than once. It takes a lot of storage or whatever the cyber term is for that. Then Glenn has to work on updating and finding more servers or a better server, redo the website, or so on. It's a whole lot of work. I know Glenn spends hours keeping this site up and it's gotta be a headache. Maybe Glenn, Ghoti, or one of the mods could explain better. I just don't want to see someone run off because they think it's because it annoys other members. It's not that. I can see where it bothers Glenn when there's 4 threads going on the exact same topic when they could be combined into one and less memory or whatever is required.

10# Seaguar Invisx. Drinch it with KVD Line conditioner the day before use then use whatever method to get the twist out. I have a barrel swivel tied to a tree that I tie my line on then I let all my line out, flip my bail and pull it tight. I keep some pressure on it as I reel in. Sounds like a lot of trouble but totally worth it. You can just drop your tube in the water and let your line out while the boat idles to straighten your line.

The most important thing about a swim jig is that it will swim with the hook pointing straight up at any speed. D&L's Bill Lowen swim jig has become a favorite of mine. It also has a bigger hook than most.