NCLifetimer

I use backer and about 50-60 yards of flouro on top on most of my rigs. The top line gets changed whenever it gets low to the point where casting is affected, or i start casting out the backer. Usually about 2 months with the occassion backlash/hang factored in.

First off, whats your set up. Rod type, length, action? With just a bobber and a worm, 40 feet isn't to bad. Try adding a split shot weight above the worm and using a heavier bobber.

I'm going to get a custom pitching/flippin/jig rod built for me soon. I know the action I want, but I'm still trying to decide on length. My builder has 7' rods in stock, but will also build me a 7' + rod if I want. So my question, is their a noticable difference in pitching(distance and accuracy) with a 7 foot rod vs. a 7 foot 3-6 inch rod, assuming the grip length is constant? I had surgery a while back on my pitching arm(baseball and fishing pitching, with the first causing the problem), and I lost a lot of the fast twitch muscles. I have a 7 foot rod right now that I pitch with, but I feel like i should be able to pitch it further then I am, and with less effort, which should increase accuracy. I figured that a little extra length might help. Any input is appreciated.

Did you account for the weight of the plastic jug? I bet that weights around 4 or 5 ounces so yours might not be that far off.

If its nice and the engine is solid, then go for it. You can get a newer boat with a bigger/newer motor for the same price(late 80's/early 90's). But knowing that someone took good care of the boat adds value to a boat, in my opinion. Just don't expect good gas mileage haha.

Bill Dance put out a collection of videos from a wide range of his shows. called "bill dance complete bass fishing course". Its pricy, over 100 i believe. You can probably find it on ebay for cheaper thou. I've watched about half of it and its already worth the 100 bucks, of course thats easy for me to say as im borrowing it from a friend haha. The videos are very specific, which i like. For example, in one video he clearly stated that in the spring the water on the north end of the lake warms quickest because the south winds warm it and it is shielded from the colder north winds, unlike the south side of the lake. That fact alone will save me hours and gas money spent fishing the south side of the lake in early spring.I don't think I would have ever figured that correlation out. I'm taking notes on the dvd's and get about a page worth of new info per video.Alot of shows i watch on tv now are basically info commercials, bill dances series isn't. 12 dvd's about an hour each. I would recommend them.

You shouldn't match the reel ratio to rod as much as you should match the reel ratio to usage. Ofcourse you can always slow down/speed up your retrieve, but I personally like different reel ratios for different applications. I have a 7.3 ratio reel, but find it much to fast and will probably sell it soon. Personally, i like a 5.something for cranks and spinnerbaits and a 6.something for everything else. IPT is actually the deciding factor for me, as some reels with the same ratio can have very different IPT measurements. But the above is assuming a linear relationship. I don't see any "mismatching" of your current set up.I would experiment and decide for your self.

Most Plastics: darker green, blue Buzzbait: black Spinners: White Cranks: white with black, blue or a little yellow Jigs: brown or black/blue

seems to go up and down, usually not down for long thou. i bet the classic being on tv has people going to check out exactly what lures are being talked about

Contact your universities Club Sports Office, they can give you the necessary contact information. All college fishing teams are club teams, atleast all of the offical ones.

Vanish is bad, but not that bad in my experience. Get some trilene 100% or any of the seagaur flourocarbon(just some "cheap" flouro's that have positive reviews) and see how they work for you. If the problem presist, change the adjustments on the reel and take time to learn how to cast with the new flouro.

In my opinion you answered your own question. I personally believe that if you have confidence in lure A then you will fish it better and be more successful then with lure B, C, D, or any other lure. Ofcourse this is assuming both are quality products at the core. You could probably start fishing other jigs and gain confidence in them, but why? If war eagles work well now for you, keep chucking them. If it aint broke... Your problem with northstar jigs and hookups seems odd, not sure what is causing that.

I have a lews TP in 6.4 and its crazy smooth. Great reel IMO.

+1 to the above. compared to the price of your reel, rod, and lure on the end of it the 5 dollars in quality flouro that will be on the rod is not a large expenditure. I've been using trilene 100% and im happy with it, Tatsu by Seagaur is supposively the real deal. Any seaguar or trilene 100% should work out well for you.

bass might just be looking to eat something else right now. If you've only been fishing them for a few weeks then keep trying, you'll get one then some more eventually.

pick up some 15,17 or 20 pound trilene 100%(NOT vanish, their is a difference). Seaguar also has good reviews on their flouro. Trilene is probably the one you'll find in stores thou.

yep i would also recommend getting a few scales and spreading them around if possible. if your fishing lakes and everyone is spread out over a few miles then have everyone get the same model of scale, it should be close enough for your use

If I was you I'd get a Basspro Pro Qualifier or a Lews Speed Spool and spend whatever is left on a 7 foot medium heavy casting rod.

+2 to what what DVT. Centrifugal provides breaking at the beginning of the cast, magnetic affects evenly thoughout the entire cast. I have a lews tournament pro and like the fact that it has both magnetic and centrifugal breaks, if i could only have one of the two i would have the centrifugal. I doubt I'll ever buy another reel that only has a magnetic break. Casting distance is nice, but accuracy is key as DVT also said.

I personally would have a 7' m/h for single hooks and a 7' medium with a parabolic action for treble hook lures, both casting rods. Reel ratio is up to you, for me it would be a 5something on the treble hook rod and 6 something for the single hook rod. Your current rod should meet your single hook applications, so I would get a 7' medium rod with a medium action if i was you.

depends. If you buy in stores i wouldn't be worried, I don't know exactly what is on ebay in the softplastics category, but on ebay I probably wouldn't buy something unless it was an established brand or you know someone that can give you the "thumbs up" on the product so to speak. Buying from the guy that pours them in his garage could get you something great or something not so great, its a gamble.

IPT is simply circumference of line on spool(Pi*2*Radius or Diameter*3.14~) times gear ratio. so (gear ratio)X(Diameter)X(3.14~)= IPT. Most companies probably measure IPT when the line is inline with the top of the spool. IPT is different on each turn of the handle during the cast, as the spool diameter is smaller at the start of the cast and increases as line is taken in. I have also noticed that IPT actual is less then advertised, which is most likely because i don't quite fill the spool all the way up.

yep, just a little bigger, that's all. In this case, I don't think the bass will know the difference.

I'd get the PQ, has a dual braking system which the SX lacks. I would get either the PQ or SX, handle both and decide for yourself. Have the new PQ myself and I'm very impressed.

Responding to the OP, i agree that the design of the rod has alot to do with the "feel". I have one rod with a resin handle with a reel that i can palm very comfortable, the combo is balanced well, rod is very light, and all of this equates to a scary level of sensative. Blank material is important, but that sensative must be carried to the parts of the body that are in contact with the rod, which is usually the reel. Good post and observations sir. I also believe the weight and balance of a rod has alot to do with the ability to "feel", with less weight and better balance equaling better "feel". Ofcourse a super high end 1oz rod isn't necessary. Equipment is like anything else materialistic, its personal preference. I for one value the increased "feel" for certain situations while fishing, and I don't mind paying a little extra to gain the feel.