skeletor6

Kickerfish is right. That 60% seems low, but by the time you factor in paypal costs, shipping costs, etc. It ends up that way. With retailers giving discounts, the items are worth significantly less than what they are sold and bought at MSRP + Tax. You might drop $200 in a store, but the same item can be bought for $160, then factor in that its used, your now at $120-$140. With that being said, unless your in quick need of money. You can always try 75% and put OBO. See if you can stretch it out a little. However, at this time of the year, its really a buyers market. Fishing stalls in the north for most, and demand decreases. Also, retailers are offering holiday sales. Best bet would be to wait until spring.

If this were the case then forget about versatility. One could only fish a few techniques effectively. Go light, you're missing heavy, go heavy you're missing light, go in-between you're too heavy or too light. My buddy will often use a 6'6' M/F spinning rod. The only rod he will have, goes out and throws frogs, and weighted jigs/texas rigs. He misses so many fish. Sure, you can do it, but it is not effective.

Mine right now is an NRX 822SYR. I am sure the DSR would be even better. However, a Cumara CUSDX72M is a great buy for those who like casting a shot. For line, I go with 8# or 6# Seaguar Tatsu. The best finesse line I have used.

For the money, the Stradic FJ is the best deal IMHO. You basically get all of the features that Shimano has to offer without going to a $300+ reel. Only drawback would be its weight. It doesn't bother me, however, on certain rods one might want to go lighter.

Do you own both the core and steez? If so, What properties led you to favoring the Steez? Thanks

Rod selection changes upon the time of year, lake, pattern, weather etc. If I was going in blind id probably roll with. 2x nrx 893c (texas rig and jig work in addition to many other purposes) 1x nrx 822syr (drop shot all purpose spinning) 1x nrx 852s jwr (finesse jigs, senkos, tubes etc) 1x nrx 803c (with mono spooled. Could get away with jerkbaits, cranks, topwater etc.) My boat can hold well more than 5 however and I'd be leaving out way too many crucial rods/reels. These 5 limit heavy cover work, Frogging, dedicated drop shot and my crazy versatile cucx711mh. If I wanted to only have 5 I would have bought my rods differently. There's give and take to any rod I could swap in and out. Which is why information mentioned in the beginning is crucial to rod selection on a given day.

There are 2 primary reasons less sensitivity is needed. The first has been mentioned, bass usually hit the bite with greater force. What I have not seen mentioned is that when a bait is moving, it is much easier to feel changes in that movement. One is constantly cranking and applying force to that bait, if something hits that bait, there will be a change in that movement and, thus, a change in pressure on the rod, reel, line which are all easily noticeable. There are instances where too much sensitivity can be annoying. I've thrown chatterbaits on my 803c NRX and all of that vibration was tiring. The recommendations that I often give and most that I have seen given on the forum is in regards to funds allocation. Spend most of your money on the rod for bottom contact, because the performance of the technique is heavily sensitivity oriented. And spend less on a moving bait rod, but more on the reel as the performance is more dependent on the reel. With that said, I do believe there has been a trend over the years of individuals switching from glass rods to hybrid or straight graphite rods. The reasons being that a graphite rods are lighter in weight and also deliver a greater degree of sensitivity. However,

Was that before or after he recommended you to buy a kvd cranking stick? Im sure he uses all strike king hardbaits too. Right out of the box. A good fisherman understands his equipment. Fishing rods from different manufacturers does not inhibit ones ability to understand the behavior and feedback of a rod. Theres a learning curve with any new rod. Practice is all it takes to learn its functionality.

Are we really doing this again? The search tool will answer every question you have about this. If you need help finding some good threads. I'll pm them to you.

Consider stepping up a power. A MH seems more practical when you throw swimbaits in the mix. And it will allow you to throw into some moderate cover and fish standard size jigs and texas rigs. I would rather have a little extra power than be underpowered.

Get rods like this and what you believe about Denali might change. I'll add a GLX 894 to the group. 1'' longer, but I Haven't found a person that doesn't like that rod for your uses. I don't see an advantage of being a "believer" to one name-brand. Too many manufacturers doing too many good things to be limit myself to one. Unless, of course, I was sponsored. Don't see that happening anytime soon though.

I would advise that you get sunline FC sniper. Wait for an upcoming sale or take advantage of the hook up tackles 20% off. The line is not $30 there are constant sales on this line. THUT had a sale last year buy 1 get one free. Came out to about $11 a spool. Also a month ago it was on sale for $14.98 Knot strength isn't an issue while tying sound knots and the advantages of fluorocarbon line far out due any monofilament for sinking techniques. On every thread where someone isn't asking about braid there just has to be someone gloating about it. Read the OP's post. He did his homework and is interested in the right line for his purpose. Quality FC was a game changer for me and I ripped off over $100 of braid and mono for the switch.

You mean Aaron Martens? Do you have a reference for that article? "I once tried the presentation of combining braided and fluorocarbon lines with drop-shot, but I didn't care for it. I didn't like the way it felt. I always use one type or the other. For a 24- to 40-foot presentation, I would use 6- to 8-pound fluorocarbon with a 6 ½- to 7-foot medium-light spinning or bait-casting rod. The worm I would use at that depth would really depend on the conditions, but I usually go with a 4 ½-inch straight-tail RoboWorm or body shad. My only advice is to keep on practicing the drop-shot. Big fish do eat the drop-shot in my experience, but they may want a bigger worm such as a fluke. Good luck." (Aaron Martens)

How much are you willing to spend? If its around $10 you are better with mono. For around $20 you can get sunline FC Sniper and get 3 spools out of it. The added abrasion resistance and knot strength will lead to less fish lost. That's not counting many other advantages. I have lost very, very few lures since I made the switch to premium fluorocarbon. Both 8, 10, and 12lb. KVD L&L is a must. I use it on all lines.

Personally haven't experienced issues with the customer service. As far as rods go their GLX and NRX are two of the nicest rod lineups out there. The imx I own is alright for what I paid for it, I just feel there's a lot to be desired for Bottom contact purposes as far as sensitivity goes. I would not hold back from getting a rod because of customer service claims. I have many of these rods and it hasn't been an issue. As far as raw performance I believe Loomis has the top spot at the the moment.

Short rods are pretty good for drop shotting vertically. I cast out my shots almost every time. I prefer a longer rod for such applications. 7'2'' is ideal for casting a shot. 6'10'' is alright too. XF actions are important with a soft enough tip so you don't lift the weight off the bottom. Power of your rod depends on what kickerfish said, the weight and cover you are fishing. Anything from ML to MH really.

I was thinking about getting one of the suits. As well as some gloves and possibly boots. http://clamoutdoors.com/ice_armor/ia-lift-suit.html So youve heard the bibs on these aren't that great? Thanks for the help.

Hey all, looking to see if anybody has used any gear from Clam ice armor. I was wondering how it works for spring and fall fishing with some early and late winter fishing as well? Curious as to the mobility and its efficacy for fishing. Don't want something. Too restrictive or heavy. Thanks

Another guy who uses 3700 plano's. Wish Northstar had some lighter hair jigs. But those planos work very well.

Remember you're on a braid heavy forum. If you're short on cash and on an insensitive rod I might go braid. Because its unlikely you'll feel slack line sensations anyways. Nonetheless weightless or finesse techniques for me involve a fair amount of slack line. Also, this seems to be when most strikes occur. Braid is fantastic on a tight line and its manageability as far as memory goes is great. Once its on top of the water bellying blowing around you're line will be slack as the light bait sinks and you will not feel the sensations a fluorocarbon will deliver and unless your great at watching your line you will miss hooksets. Whether people want to claim they can feel slack line hits on braid its mostly bs. The fish would have to hit the line in a fashion that makes the line tight. It does not transmit slack line sensitivity. As far as hooksets go, I've never had a problem setting a hook with mono or fluorocarbon. Even in 30+feet of water and long casts. Manageability of quality fluorocarbon or even seaguar invizx is definitely enough for spinning gear. I care more what the line is doing on/in the water and the transmission I receive. Then again, im not using cheap rods. Watch arguably the best finesse fisherman in the game, Aaron Martens. See what he uses.

By far the most dependable rig for my location is the dropshot with roboworm or jackall products. For heavier cover I'll say a texas rig.

You could spend even less and get an H20 Mettle when they go on sale for like $30. Sweet reel for the money.

It depends on the FC being used. A line like Seaguar Tatsu is smaller and more consistent in line diameters in lines with similar breaking strength rating. Also, its stated value is a few pounds under its actual breaking. I don't feel there is a real advantage over mono if using a cheap FC. However, quality FC is high in density, more abrasion resistance. Does not absorb water. Very belly resistant for more natural presentations. Is undoubtedly more sensitive and slack line sensitivity is the best of all line types. Furthermore, its refractive index is close to water making its visibility lower. Its high density also leads to less drag in the water. Mono is more cost effective and great for topwater presentations and also good for jerkbaits. That or a lower density resin FC that some pros are switching to. Basically, for the jerkbait to suspend.

Visibility, Wind Knots, Wind Blowing the Line Around, Drag under water affecting bouyancy and action of certain baits, Belly causing slack line and lack of slack line sensitivity. Senko and Texas rig presentations are prone to slack line, and often are bit during these times. I prefer a quality Fluorocarbon for the purpose.

For $100 I would also give the M/XF Fenwick elite tech smallmouth rod a good look.