primetime

If you have some money to spend at bass Pro shops and the Stick worms are on sale....Try to pick up a pack of the BPS Swizzle Sticks...They are the 5" Stick worm with a Thick Twister tail making it different than all the other stick baits with tails like the Speed Worms, Paddle Tails, Burner worm etc... I recently used them for the first time and you can cast them a mile, fish em like a senko, or fish as a swimming worm, wake em, or use them as jig trailers and they are nice and dense....BPS makes some good colors and the newer recipe they started I think 2 years ago has made them really good especially for the price...I buy the GYB worms when I find them on sale and I feel they are worth it since they make some niche colors and just have a built in subtle falling action when rigged weightless, but the Stick O's are the closest imo when it comes to color options and price etc...The Strike King Ocho is a killer worm for flash but are also expensive, and the Salt Lick from Net Bait is a worm that I found on clearance one and they seem to not get enough press since they are also really good.... The BPS soft baits move fast when they are on sale so if you don't get to the store quickly they often run out of the top colors but they let you order to store for free....Lots of other companies have BPS baits in their line ups and/or older baits no longer under the BPS label.... Whenever I can't find any BPS Crazy craws, Beavers, Bull Hogs etc...I just head over to the V&M section and ask for a price match....

If you want to buy them by the pound, I know Netcraft sells a pound for $4-$6 and not sure if you can choose any styles etc...Most will be blemishes or baits that do not sell well so you may end up with a bunch of bubblegum soft baits, and panfish baits etc... I would look at Locket Lures since they let you pick baits and you can buy 100 Worms which are the same as the gander mountain worms for I think about a dime each...They also have a few other brands in bulk, I think they offer mixtures etc...At least you can pick 100 senkos, 50 beavers, 50 swimbaits, etc.. You can call this place and they will sell pounds to people but they do not allow you to pick any mixes or color but they used to seperate them by creature/Worm/Swimbait and fluke and they sell A grade Blemishes for the most part....I have never ordered from them but here they are good, I have shopped their in person and they have nice stuff... http://www.fishermanscandystore.com/home.html I would say Ebay is your best bet,especially this time of year when guys are loading up for spring...If you see a lot of baits you want and let's say you don't want any bright colors, simply email the guy and ask if he can leave out bright colors and try to only include natural colors...Check feedback, and when you order, make sure you leave a note when paying since many times you can have 40 orders in your que and not remember who was who since lots of people don't understand that you are not pouring baits so you get a dozen emails daily asking for custom colors and baits even when selling worms for a nickel...Check out Bitters baits...They do 2 bags for $5 and $50 free shipping, Gambler also has a good section of overstocks...Overstock bait and tackle is great for GYB baits, Z-Man etc..wait until Friday...If you google buy soft baits by the pound onliine you won't get to the OEM, but you will get to a few sites where you can buy 100 senkos for $5 etc... Hope that helps..There is a guy on Ebay who used to sell 10lbs for 30 bucks free shipping. I think he just got fed up of selling soft baits and I saw an order he sent my buddy about a year ago and it was an amazing deal, but I can't promise that the mixes are still the same so I am just offering some suggestions... At the end of the day, you will get more out of your money if you just buy what is on sale at tackle warehouse, only buy what you really prefer, you only need 2-3 colors and a few styles of baits...When ordering pounds, you get what they put in the bag, so you can end up with a 5lb lot of sassy shads for example and a few reapers in pink... With bags of Havoc and Yum only costing $3, $20 can get you set for a month of fishing and that is how I would go....But hopefully the links work, I know you can find mixes if you look, but how do you beat $3 bags of GYB products on Overstock? Good Luck.

I break out the ultralight rod and rig it up with a small panfish bait and hope I can just get some bites....Some days the fish won't touch anything and it is what it is, but sometimes you can get lucky and find some decent sized Panfish,Crappie, or Catfish...If you get really lucky you may be able to get a few Golden Shiners and if you live line a golden shiner your chances will now go up big time... Catching panfish on 2-4lb test can be a blast, but some days if the Bass are not around, good chance nothing else is around either, so I like to use a small bait like a 1-2" grub, Gulp earthworm, or tiny crappie Jig so I can move around and cover water and if lucky, you may uncover a group of bedding gills, or a school of Crappie and when reeling one in, you may discover that all of a sudden a large Bass appears to steel your catch... All above ideas are good...Have a drink, just enjoy nature, maybe take a ride and fish some new water, but catching panfish or smaller bass in the 4-6" range is not a waste of time because sometimes it gives you color ideas or a better understanding of the sizes of bait in the lake...Striking out is part of fishing...It even happens in small ponds when you know Bass are seeing your lures and baits, but sometimes the most memorable fish you end up catching are on the toughest days when you are just casting to go through the motions.... Another option is to practice your pitching skills, try out all the lures you rarely use, figure out which ones need tuning...You can still make it a productive trip and maybe your next cast will be the one you never forget...

If you don't want to damage your line with a split shot, one way that helps out for me is I take a few strands of silicone and wrap it around the line, or take some cheap mono and do the same....Then crimp the shot on the line or silicone which provides padding and do not squeeze it hard with pliers...The new bull shot is soft, you can put whatever you want that is going to protect you main line under the shot....Crimp one of those black bobber stops under the split shot if you want to add weight and not retie...I have not had issues with my line breaking...Or put the shot on heavy line and then tie a leader or add a swivel....I find split shots to be the easiest to use and change quickly, if careful, you will be alright... Guys used to use Toothpicks for pegging and yes it was risky but now you have all kinds of ways to protect knots with glues etc...Just get creative to minimize damage. Crimp sleeves work well under a shot if you want it tight but I never do it since skirting works fine.

I just care about having a quality hook and the right kind of hook for the jig as well as the right weed guard etc. Any jig will catch a fish and I do not usually worry about head color, but I do have certain preferences I look for from swim Jigs vs. Flipping jigs. Siebert is the best for prices and having a ton of options to make the jig the way you want it and you can just let him make what you want since he understands why one jig has a certain Line Tie degree etc..I also like how he leaves the weedguards long so you can trim them to your liking..If Seibert Jigs were in local sporting good stores with alll the colors and options at his prices I would never buy another brand jig.... I like the Pepper Jigs since they are only $4 for the swim Jig as one of the better brands off the shelf, same with the Strike King Line of Jigs...The Hack Attack Heavy Cover Swim Jig and Regular Flipping Jig is $5 but worth it compared to your other options most of the time... The only other Jigs I see often are the Terminator Jigs but I consider that a cheaper jig with the VMC hook and the way the head is designed it picks up weeds and for $4 I think it is just an ok Jig..I used to like the Booyah A-Jig with Living Rubber and it was a heavy duty bulky Boo Jig which I actually think is an OK jig as well especially if they are on clearance for a buck.... Whatever happened to Stanley Jigs which is pretty much the only Jig I used growing up...I only see the above mentioned jigs on the shelves of stores and for some reason the buyers never take any risks. Dicks had a lot of AT Jigs come in and for $3.29 they flew off the shelves, but have never seen them since.... Sorry for the ramble.....One Jig I really Like is the BPS Flipping Jig since the Head is slimmer and seems to come through grass really well. I tie the skirt myself after buying it, but I don't really like the hook but that head is hard to find...Strike King used to have a Jig that was just called a Premium Jig that looks identical but they are no longer in production and that jig had a better hook... I guess the moral of the story is stick to Siebert, Great Tungsten prices on worm weights, Lure making jig heads and components as cheap as all the big companies and much better, any color, and his Jigs are Durable and he offers them in weights to fit any situation or to give you something just a bit different which I like...Everyone throws a 3/8 but not everyone uses a 5/8 or 5/16 which maybe helps, at least in my mind.... I tried pouring Jigs and they looked great once I learned a few things after being shown....But for whatever reason, I had hook up ratio problems since no matter how pretty they look, they may not be aligned properly and I would have jigs roll, eyes shut, it was not for me...But skirts are easy to fix and do yourself but I would never trust some random heads on Ebay some guy poured after my experience and I used good hooks, I guess they were just not the right head angle to hook...Jigs look simple, but some of the things top quality jigs offer you don't notice since they hook what strikes...

If you lose the legs (Which I seem to lose after 1-3 strikes) I replace them with skirts or rabbit fur and then they actually have a much better hook up ratio, land right side up since I put some weight on the hook shanks, and the frog actually has a pretty good looking action with skirts instead of legs.. It has hooks that are super tight to the body but high, good quality and soft body, and they do have some nice colors and I like that small size for light line etc...I do not like the Combat version but like the Pocket size......Great for spinning tackle and pressured fish... Some people love that frog, I guess it has it's time but I just can't rationalize throwing it as it is since a Booyah frog is cheaper and pound for pound one of the best frog lures you can buy...Just my opinion...Hard to beat a Pad Crusher when on sale for $4 each....

I never started fishing Hollow frogs until a few years ago because I was convinced they were a waste of time since I would miss most fish..Then I watched a video where a guy was practicing for a tournament and he didn't have hooks on the frog (A Joke I now play on a few friends, but only a few, clip hook under barb and watch them get frustrated) But during the video he made a point that finally made me understand...A frog or toad is a soft bait and we give Bass time to swim to the side with a Senko etc...A hollow body feels the same to the Bass. A Bass is an efficient predator and if it truly wants to kill something and eat it then it will...He then let the next few bass take his hollow frog down without hooks and let them hold it and on average they would move with it for as long as 10 seconds...I have also done the same test when I know it is a smaller fish and I choose not to swing, and they will often hold it until they feel the hooks.... I don't care what anyone says...Catching Bass on Frogs is not easy, you don't get a ton of strikes so many times the strikes are quality fish that are loud, and instinct is to set the hook since usually I am thinking about my next cast if it is a slow day etc... I would estimate that on a good day if I get 10 strikes on a floating Topwater with treble hooks, I only hook 7-8 fish, but I would say it is closer to 60% and I catch another 20% on the follow up soft bait...Some fish just smack it and I have watched 5lb bass up close Ram a Shiner coming from deeper water and they move much faster then we realize, and when they hit the shiner with their nose, gold scales fill the water and the Shiner then stops moving and then the fish circles around to decide what to do next...Those Smacks are loud blowups, and many times they bass will come back and not eat the shiner....Although recently I was messing around with some big shiners and a giant Female was eyeballing the shiner for about an hour on and off and I wanted to see how big she was....Once my shiner slid off my hook and the shiner was dead, that fish sucked it in within 10 seconds...It knew I was their, but it knew the hook or line was not right....My point is that I now just have fun when fishing frogs and accept the fact that sometimes you may hook a few but some days you can hook almost all of them...Cutting skirts, rattles, all that stuff helps as well so it is worth experimenting, I love throwing topwater and I accept that sometimes you will miss fish but they almost always will hit a worm right away or if you come back in 10 minutes....You will do better as the weather get's warmer, I noticed during the pre and during spawn that Topwater was low percentage compared to May Through Fall...

I use a 5/0 Zoom Horny Toad single hook with all my frogs and sometimes go weightless and sometimes I add some weight for longer casts... I do not like double hooks on toads but I know plenty of people do. My guess it has something to do with the hookset? I use the BPS Humpin Toad alot because it has a hook slot on top for easy texposing, and if I use the Stanley Ribbits, I think I use a 4/0 for smaller ones, and I use 5/0 I think, I rarely go bigger than that..I use heavy line, rod, and I let the fish take it and then I swing Hard since casts are usually far.... One Trick that helps me is I keep my rod high around 10 oclock, and as I am reeling, once I get a strike, I lower the rod and I turn toward the fish or lean forward before setting the hook. If you are driving home 2 thick hooks you need to swing hard, especially if making long casts, and same with using a single hook since if you have 50lb braid and a thin guage hook it bends, Make sure the rod is strong enough back bone wise and try to give them extra time and give a 2 count before swinging and make sure you feel the weight of the fish, and then swing hard and do not let slack get into the line which often can happen after swinging since the momentum causes fish to swim at you really fast..That is why a fast reel makes frog fishing easier, I used to lose 70% of Hollow body frog fish because they would get off half way to the boat until I focused on tension and power.... Hope that helps...You Tube has some great videos that show guys catching bass on toads and frogs, and that should help you figure out the mistake..I still make tons of mistakes when fishing Swimbaits that are not on top so I can't see and when texas riggged weedless, I often pull the bait away from the fish before getting a good set... Keep in mind..Some days fish will simply slap at your frog to either stun it and come back, or they just strike it without the intent to kill it...That is just the way it is sometimes, and some days they spit it out faster than you can react... FYI...It sounds like you are fishing the bait the right way...I know you said Ribbit but are you maybe using the Hollow Ribbits that come in a 2 pack with the 6/0 double hook? Top Toad I think it is called but I know it says Ribbit on the packs I think.... If that is the case, I have heard mixed reviews from people who know what they are doing, some say terrible, some say awesome, I just have never used them yet. I only thought of this when you listed the colors, since I never see a bluegill colored Ribbit in the stores but I am sure they make one...I consider the Ribbit the regular soft toad...

I am also a fan of loctite for getting plastics to stay in place or for locking in the weights of my frogs before fishing them....I rarely fix a damaged bait, I chuck them in a bag and sometimes I will use a lighter to melt one if I really need it but I find once a plastic tears, it is a pain to fish, and the only soft bait glue I have ever seen used had a really strong smell, not sure what brand it was but was not mend it... Superglue is good for jigheads and hooks, but not so good for hands, eyes, or lips....If you get some on your hands, do not scratch anything..Loctite gel seems to be a bit more forgiving and does not leave as much color but there are a million tricks to keep baits from sliding down a hook, the Elaztach is where the issue can come in from my experiences or if the hook is too small....

I like to leave the top half of strands uneven so maybe 4-5 strands hang a bit lower for swimming jigs so they give it a bit more action....I will also sometimes add 1 or 2 strands of a color for accent depending on water color and if I am not getting bit... I will take a regular jig for flipping and pitching and sometimes give it a buzz cut like a finesse jig since the top catches water and can slow the fall while also offering a smaller profile. Sometimes I think the buzz cut jigs look more natural if I am fishing them on the bottom, but I will also trim the skirt shorter if fish are not really taking it..It all depends on the day and time of year and lake/pond. I never really shorten the brush guard only because it makes it stiffer, but I do like to cut a few strands from the bottom on some jigs to make them softer. I will remove a weed guard all together if I am fishing sparce weeds or open water when swimming a jig, but I only do it so I can snap it off weeds like a rattle trap and I sometimes think weedguards cause fish to not get hooked well on swimming jigs if they are too thick. I know a weedguard helps keep the jig stuck in the fishes mouth, but I will often just swim an arkie jig with regular brush guard and if that is too thick I feel I get less hook ups...I also make sure I am using the right guage hook on a jig I am throwing long distances or with light line...Hook Quality and size/thickness can really matter...But everyone has little things they do for confidence and prefer certain styles which is why there are hundreds of companies who make jigs in 3 varieties for a swim jig, casting, finesse, flipping etc.... The biggest modification I notice when looking at jigs is how much rubber vs. Silicone people use, or how much flare they like etc....If only I knew what was best when it comes to color and trailer at all times...If you can figure all that out then you should have alot of good days since Jigs will always be on the Menu....

I buy them from a local shop and many are pre Rapala and I like them for one reason....People on Ebay will often pay alot more money for certain colors....I can't tell the differences but then again I rarely fish the big one, I like the 2 smaller ones and I like the newer colors anyhow...I never knew Pre Rapala Chug Bugs were any different...I would think they are cheaper since they were plastic and made with hooks available in the 70's, trebles today are much better, but I could be wrong.... Some older lures like the bomber Long A made by XCALIBUR were heavier and came in different colors but the difference is very subtle..By the time you change out hooks, sand them etc....It probably doesn't make a difference...

Actually, a good option is buying the clear spook and just color it the color you want for that day with a permanent marker...The color fades off anyway, but you can paint over it etc....Clear works great for topwaters at times since Fish can't guage the size of it and you can also add tint with the markers etc... Sometimes they are overstocks and really cheap which is why I am mentioning the clear option. I have found deals on clear chug bugs and spooks and I use em clear, colored, and you can create your own color to match what they spit up...Clear is a color that people should fish more, it flat out works and I have heard a few theories as to why, but who cares what they see if it works.... I buy the cheap sharpie markers but if you are into colors and lures looking pretty (Not my thing) but I think you can go to the tacklemaking thread and find a base coat that you can use to keep painting over it...Space is often tight in tackle boxes so I like to be able to bring less and adjust on the fly...Same with Jigs etc...I actually put pink Nail polish on the top of my topwater lures when I fish in lakes where I can't see the lure well due to swellls or weeds etc...Shallow Florida lakes get some big waves and it can create some action if you find the trapped baitfish and spooks are great for covering water....Hope that helps...I love topwater fishing...I will force feed a topwater many days and be ok with it...

Ghost shad is popular in clear water and is a pink tone and a pink/white spook would be good because it is like an Albino Shad color which works well at times, and you can see the top on long casts for hooksets like mentioned... I have watched people catch good quality bass on all pink topwater lures and floating worms....You never know what color they will want but I do know that some shad have a pinkish hue, some guys will use the pink spike it marker on the sides of cranks for flash, and tilapia and trout have pink in them.... I used to love using a cotton candy worm as a kid and I would fish them near the top, so I am not so sure bass see what we see and when fishing a spook, I would use that color if that was my only choice and be confident. I actually prefer the one knocker sound of walking baits over all other sounds, just recently discovered how good they can be and realized most expensive walking lures are one knockers...Some are super loud like the Damiki Rambler....But they like em... My favorite Color spro frog is Pink top since I can see it and that is all that matters since in heavy cover I doubt they see it beore striking. Even still, what do they see? Go for it...The Spooks are priced right and are as good as any walking bait imo... Buy it and good luck fishing it...You may end up becoming a bright lure guy and some people prefer only bright baits....Electric chicken is a top seller for saltwater, and works pretty good for bass as well you never know.

Straight shank offset for me and I make sure the hook point comes out in the smooth section of the worm on the GYB 5" Senko...I find I do better with straight shank hooks on thinner soft baits and I like a 4/0-5/0 depending on brand, I like a heavy wire or thicker hook for weight and when fishing heavy tackle which I do most of the time.. If using spinning gear or lighter line under 12lb test, I will use thinner hooks and a lighter hook set, I do feel the weight of the hook and placement can change the action both better or worse, nail weights can help change up the action, but I think it is all preference..For me,EWG is for Extra wide Baits with a lot of plastic, but I know many people who use 3/0 EWG hooks and do just fine...It is all preference, smaller thin guage hooks may give the worm more of a shimmy, but sometimes I lose patience waiting for a senko to reach bottom without weight, heavy guage hooks help speed that up... Hope that helps.

I also think most Jitterbugs lack split rings like many of the older Pradco Topwater Lures like the spooks etc..I always make sure my topwater lures have split rings, since the older lures without rings have hooks that are stiff and easie to throw imo... I wouldn't think you need anything special to add split rings to a Jitterbug, I think the action would remain the same since adjusting the metal lip is probably the biggest factor in the action or if you add a dressed treble hook which creates a bit more drag, but some days fish love a dressed rear treble... I just checked the 2 Jitterbugs I have and I can see I added split rings to both and I always check them to see how they run and I think mine were made in probably the 80's or 90's...I did find a jointed Jitterbug that had really different split rings then I would choose, so maybe they come now stock now? I May have purchased it used or it some how found it's way into a box...I don't think I have ever used it but I do like the idea of throwing one again...I bet the Bass in many of the lakes and ponds I fish have not seen a Jitterbug in years... Good post.

Spinning Rod 6-8lb test line, split shot or weightless worm....smaller 4-6" worm...Hard to beat a Ribbon tail, curly tail, and the senko...I would cast a senko weightless and let it sink to the bottom, count to 5, twitch it twice, wait another 5 seconds and then work it back like a Fluke at different levels and speeds in case they are active.. Sometimes they just move, or get finicky, I find I need to slow down and go back to basics...Lighter line, make accurate casts, and slow down, I usually am fishing too fast when I am in a slump, or I am still trying to force feed whatever was working the previous month...Fish change from conditions, the First thing I would do is make sure there is action going on around where you are fishing, sometimes I get in habits of doing the same things and it takes me a bit to realize that a new season has started or the water is higher.... The Orginal Rapala FLoater always gets me out of a slump..Just barely twitch it and leave it in the strike zone...They hit a Rapala like a senko only better many days in the spring and summer.

I do my best to always feel the fish when I have treble hooks and do more of a sweep or lean back so I do not have any slack in the line. I find if I am not focused the entire time, I almost always set the hook like I am using a Frog and that is not the way to go with trebles for the most part... I find fish slap or miss a topwater with treble hooks at the same rate as any topwater even a frog...Sometimes they just come up and smash it without the intent of eating it, and I am always amazed how a fish can crush a lure with 3 treble hooks and not get any hook at all at times... I think when a fish wants a topwater, they take it down and from there it is just playing the fish, you could get away with just doing a reel set if you feel the weight and have good treble hooks. The hard part is keeping them buttoned up if on a long cast without them throwing the hook or getting you hung up, or some how getting slack in your line...I would rather have gear to heavy and land the fish then use a lighter rod, but that is just my preference, I like a fast tip so I can work the lure better but I know that is all preference. Jitterbug...I need to throw that again soon...I have a hard time putting down the prop baits this time of year, the Jitterbug has gained some respect again with many companies copying it and charging big bucks with a fancy name..same as the crazy crawler...I still love the Torpedo but I have replaced the devils horse with the X Rap Prop since I decided it just works better but Heddon is still the real deal..

The ones that go on sale for 3/10 bucks from booyah and strike King, sports authority had some good ones on the ground for a buck for a few years...staney wedge has some cool looking blades and sizes....But I use the Terminator when I use them lately because I found a bunch on sale but the BPS Lazer Eyes seem to be most prevelent in my box. I used to use a spinnerbait all the time, not as much anymore, but I should....If they spin and have flash without twist, then they should work....I still like a hammered gold single colorodo blade with white skirt, or tandem willow in silver white flash for burning...I usually use 3/8 I think most of the time....The Pond Magic smaller size and beetle spin are really good as well, especially in tough areas...Don't forget, Inline are still being made for bass, the Hildenbrandt Snagless Sally is still popular on the Big O and comes through everything and has a better hook up than the terminator imo...They are expensive though..Close to $10 but quality...I did have a wordens drum roller I found on clearance that came with a Z Man Diezal minnow and short arm for weeds and shallow water...It was really good until I threw it into a tree, have not seen them around but then again, Jig Spinners are cheap, add a swimbait or fluke...no skirt needed...big Beetle spin.... Saltwater guys love the red fish Magic and Saltwater Assassin spinnerbaits for red fish, and the Berkley Mullet Spin which is a 1/2 beetle spin that works good for Bass...I think any spinnerbait is fine as long as it has a good hook, does not roll, and the blades do not fly off...Bass See it and smack it, The only thing I notice with the expensive one's are they are more streamlined and have better detail, but can't say any are better than a Lazer Eye or Booyah imo...Just google Jimmy Houston, I think he throws only Booyah these days, and of course on of the blades is yellow or orange...

You can find awesome deals on the Siebert Site right now for some really good jigs and accessories etc...I love his Swim Jig heads with the Wide gap hook...He makes the weedguard nice and long so you can customize them, but most important the swim Jig and grass Jigs with vertical line ties can be fished anywhere anyway you choose... I plan on buying some more of the swim jig heads since he sells them cheap in a variety of colors, top quality hooks, right size, and eyes on a swim jig just gives me more confidence....I can tie skirts, but I have never had success with any other part of making jigs...

I think you can get amazing deals on Fishing Reels these days and as mentioned I think every company makes good quality reels depending on price point etc...I seem to love every high end reel I have ever held from the major companies and even House brands... I don't really care where stuff is made, I find if I take care of it, I will be happy, and if I have a problem, it seems companies are more than happy to help you out since competition is tight these days... I am often amazed at some of the deals you can find for what I consider High end reels..$100-$150 is the most I will spend but that works for me, I am not the type of person who notices little differences in one reel to the next.... As long as they cast and reel, have a smooth drag, I am happy...and I must be lucky because I have a Silver Max that is 5 years old if not more that works fine...I guess it is not as smooth as my newer reels, but if I pick it up and the right lure is on it that day, I may use it all day with much better stuff laying down next to it... I guess it is all about what makes you happy..Nothing wrong with buying expensive reels or inexpensive reels as long as you have your expectations regarding "Value" realistic. And that is not a knock vs. any comments above...I actually have never really looked at the Shimano pages that go past the Caenan, Citica, and Curado...Or the Tatula for Daiwa...Revo for Abu...I just can't spend the money on the top end stuff that retails for over $200 but I am sure if I owned one, I would not find anything wrong with it.... I think the industry is in a race for lighter reels, and faster, so I don't know if the lighter exterior means less quality, even if it does, light casting reels are really nice....

Do people still use the Original Stren Fishing Line in that glacier blue color? I remember growing up the only 2 lines that I ever used were either Berkley XL then XT on Casting gear, and my brother only used Stren and I see it in stores but never even think about it anymore.... I also find that Spinnerbaits have become so much more expensive yet seem to be cheaper in quality than the one's I used to buy from BPS for a few bucks 20 years ago...I also think the industry has created way to many terms for a type of Jig, Hook etc...Do I need a Casting Jig, Skipping Jig, Flipping Jig, Punch Jig, Swim Jig, Finesse Jig, Heavy duty Finesse, Mop jig or rubber or is there maybe 1-2 that cover all? And why is it very few people use Black worms and all Black Jigs anymore? Seems it has to be black and blue to be "Legit"

I use alot of old school baits....The Luhr Jensen Speed Trap, Wordens Timber Tiger, Cordell Big O, but I like pretty much every crankbait from the Academy brand to Strike King and Rapala...I would say my favorite is the flat sided Spro Lil John which come in some awesome colors, and I also like the Shallow Shad Rap on spinning tackle and light line since it has an action that is different. The Timber Tiger is the most weedless imo around wood and light weeds, it has a design that allows it to back out of trouble after ripping it free from weeds or after deflecting from wood. It is ugly, comes in a few different sizes, but it is a tank that can take a beating and will keep running true. If you look on Tackle Warehouse, I am not sure a negative review exists for them which is rare....Hard to beat at $6 for someone like me who loses alot of cranks and is hardly an expert at cranking...

I love all the Culprit soft baits and love their color schemes. They Make a Pumpkinseed color that is highly translucent and different than other companies versions that has always been very effective for me and I always carry some. The Fat Max was designed for pitching and flipping into cover so the tail would not get hung up like on a Standard Ribbon tail and it does get through heavy weeds very well. It is a great worm since it is dense, comes in perfect sizes, and can be pitched on a heavy weight or fished weightless. I like to use the shorter version 6" most of the time, and I have not really played with the bigger sizes much. I find I use the Crawdad color and Junebug the most....but I also like Okee Craw, and they make a gold color that is new which I have not tried but it looks like a winner. I have always felt that the Culprit Ribbon Tail worms are the standard for swimming worms, and the Fat Max is a great worm since Bass under heavy weeds see endless creatures and craws all day long. You can get a Fat max worm to penetrate weeds easily when the regular ribbon tail would be getting stuck over and over...Can't go wrong since they are also great at holding your hook in one spot which is important. I hate adjusting my hook after every few casts, and you can skip the fat max really well also....Another benefit.

Here is what I meant by turning Gray in color, I am basing this all from memory regarding how color is seen when light is taken out of the equation. I am going from memory here so I may not be 100% correct, but from what I remember from College Chemistry Lab, any color that sinks to a depth where light is no longer (penetrating/being absorbed), all colors turn to a shade of gray which is called the Grey scale, so debating if a Bass can see Red better than Purple which are 2 colors on the opposite end of the spectrum can only matter if we are talking about "Clear" Water with strong light being present which is rare in most cases. I am pretty sure that the only colors that can be seen when light is not present which would be in deep water or really stained water are fluorescent colors (Chart being one) and a few other's. I think Muddy water is a different story all together but if you were to google the topic, you can find some interesting data and studies (None have helped me catch more fish but it does make you realize why they create a color like Junebug w/Red Flake...It covers all 3 areas of the color scale with Red, Green, and Purple.... Blue Basser is right, blue Saphire is one of the most popular colors and I use it in all water colors because it seems to always work and I have no idea why. Is that color effecive because it is fluorescent (if it is?) or the silver flake which adds flash? I believe Flash like from a spoon can be seen at all depths but I am not 100% positive. Tom Made the perfect statement that really is all that matters.....What does a Bass Actually see since comparing what a Human sees is not a fair comparison to make. I am sure he can explain this much better than I can, but I have always laughed at marketing.... What color line is invisible? Pink? Red? Clear Fluorocarbon? Green Fluorocarbon? Camo colored line? And how would a company claim Red Line as invisible if you are fishing green or off colored water? Red only vanishes first in perfecly clear water? Sorry for the Ramble, I type fast and have always wondered about color since 30 years ago the best selling colors were Black and purple, then Grapes were the most popular, and now we see Green Pumpkin as the best selling color. As for the marker...Spike It makes a marker that has chart on one side and pink on the other for only a few bucks so you can color the tails of worms, or add some flash to crankbaits etc...It also has garlic scent. Other companies make them as well, I know JJ's Magic is popular which I think is a dip but I just use the marker. ( if you use a bottle of chart color, just make sure you never spill it on carpet). As for wake baits, I don't know why but some days a chart body and blue top is really good. If you look at wake baits you will always see alot of chart colored baits, same with square bills since everyone has all pretty much agreed it is actually a natural color for what fish see since they are only seeing a quick flash of it most of the time and are conditioned. Another theory is "If a Fish can't see it, it can't strike it" which is very true in Muddy water without any visibility. Even then, some say use solid Red, Solid Black, or Chart...So I am back at stage 1....

Lizards