primetime

I always figured chart was used for 2 reasons... 1- Fluorescent colors can still be seen and do not turn into gray color in deeper water without light... 2-Bluegills and most panfish and even shad have some chartruese on them...I have also seem crawfish that have some yellow hue to them as well...All I know is that I have used chart colored fire tip worms, mostly black and chart and pumpkin and chart, and for trailers chart is usually the first color I use in clear or stained water....Black.chart soft baits, or white/chart skirts seem to always get bit... I think blade colors and color in general is a preference thing based on past experiences. I usually like a gold blade and dark skirt, and silver blade with a lighter skirt color, and I usually throw them based on my mood, I don't really let weather pick colors, I like to pick them based on water color and forrage color... As for chart colored baitfish...If you look at a school of shad (At least in Florida waters I fish) many have a yellow flash as they go buy, and so do some bluegills...I have had some of my best days on Chartruese crankbaits and maybe it is just because it is a reaction strike, or they see it best, but some days a chart/blue back wake bait is hard to beat even in clear water... Good question. I would like to hear why we all use chartruese....The spike it marker in chart and pink is a must have item...Not sure why but it adds flash to hardbaits..

I have been using swim jigs a lot this year and have really liked how well a ribbon tail worm works as a trailer(also on spinnerbaits, Casting jigs and bladed jigs). The only issue I am having is I have to bite 2-3" off a Ribbon Tail worm to make it smaller and fit the jig better. Is there a company making a 4" Ribbon Tail worm or even a 3"? I feel like I am wasting money ripping a 6" culprit in half since they are not all that cheap. Culprit used to make 4" Ribbon Tail worms but I can't find them any longer and I am out. I was told that Zoom makes a 4" U Tail but I have to think that some company makes a 4" Ribbon tail like the older Culprits. I have always liked the culprit tails and colors when it comes to a swimming worm. Anyone have any ideas? Does anyone use the trailers that are made out of the same material as the skirts, and if so, do they work well? I am referring to the ones that are on some of the Punch Skirts, I know you can buy them from some of the lure component companies. I have seen a few that are shaped like a ribbon tail worm, but I would think they would get tangled and ripped up easy. Any help appreciated. Or any suggestions that you think would make a good alternative like a different shaped grub or something I am not aware of...I have been staying away from websites and magazines to minimize my tackle purchases for the last year.

I actually use something similar that I made myself, just not as nice looking... I took some industrial grade plastic bags and attached 6 of them with a belt clip that I put through a metal Grommet that I placed in the corner of each bag. The Clip is pretty big, but I can carry about 10 bags of plastics, plenty of terminal tackle, and a few lures from each category. I keep it on my belt when fishiing at all times since I keep my favorite baits in the bags...It comes in handy on a boat and from shore... I like the way you are thinking...The bags I use have held up now for about 2 years, they are the same type you find in the worm binders....I use twist Ties from Bread bags to tie up my trebles or I simply wrap them in sandwich bags and slip them inside...I would think having slots like a surf casting bag would be good, alot of guys put PVC in the box for the waste, and hang all the plugs, but most of the one's I have used are pretty crude...A cover would be nice, and waterproof is a huge plus...

I would bring a rod with light line and try some smaller baits that you can cover water with...Road runner hair jigs in 1/16 to 1/8 and small jigs, grubs etc...You understand the issue which is finding where they are feeding..Suspended or bottom... I would maybe try a Ned Rig which falls slowly and that would tell you if they are hitting it on the drop, or when you drag it....I guess a light jig does the same thing, but I always did well with Road Runners in winter for Bass when I lived in NY...I always liked a 1/8 oz on 6lb test and usually they would thump it on the fall or as soon as it hits bottom. Small Tubes always worked well....Bitsy Sized tubes just to locate fish, then maybe go bigger? Cold water Bass Fishing can be tough, but if you have had success on suspending Jerkbaits you should be able to figure something out...Good Luck. For some reason I am a big believer in light line in cold clear water...If I can use 4lb test, then I truly believe that will work better than 6lb etc...But that is just me... The Bass may be located at the first main drop from the shoreline....I would try to figure out where that first change of depth is and start in that area....Fishing From shore may actually be better for finding them...

If you see them, they see you....I have that happen in ponds I fish and I usually try to make my casts a good distance back from the lake and try to use soft baits that land softly...If I see fish that won't strike, I take note and go back in the evening and approach carefully if they were big....

Awesome Topwater Fish...The Jackall Frog does have a really good walking action, and I would agree, it is not the best in really heavy cover, but it works really well in most of it...I like the colors they offer, I do well on that gold and green color, maybe because it is the only one I have...The bluegill color is never in stock... Have to love Frog season...the jackall Frog looks really good in open water as well, I have seen guys do well with frogs in open water when you would normally use a hardbait...

I only lose 1-2 lure knockers per year....Its almost a wash....but I buy cheap ones online...I think if you are serious then I would suggest buying one that get's good reviews regardless of price. I don't fish expensive lures all that much so if I lose a Jig or lure it is not usually a big deal...Sometimes it is hard to get lures back when your line breaks etc....Or is it worth going into an area to get a lure that may have snakes or gators etc. in the area... It all depends on your situation. I buy the one's that are just a heavy ring that rips the trebles off or knocks the lure loose,It works half the time but takes some time but for a $7 lure I try to get them back if easy...

I have had success fishing the rig in weeds here in Florida by making a few modifications. I have tried almost every jighead you can think of, and I have found the best way to fish it in weeds is to buy some 1/16 oz Bull Shots or Tungsten Bullet weights, then peg the weight above a small #4- #1 Worm hook Texas Rigged-I use the lightest guage I can get away with and smallest size hook since a smaller hook gap is less likely to bend if you have to lock down the drag. I am still playing around with different ways to set it up, but I have used the Slider System with 4" Worms and a gliding Jig head for years in weeds and if you have the right rod, 10-20lb braid, or a good #10 Copoly can handle most areas....Worth a try, one pack of ZInkers is $4 and if you cut one in half you have enough baits for an entire day, they get better as they get beat up...Glue helps. I was a skeptic for a long time and figured any small soft bait would work, but after using the Elaztach-Strike King Zero or Z-Man worms, the action is different. When the Pores open up it looks as if the bait is breathing if you look at it in the water, I believe that is what makes the Elaztach more effective imo....

If it lands next to small fish, it will catch Small Fish...If it lands next to a nice panfish, it is a great panfish bait..If it lands near a big bass...It catches big bass, but overall, it just get's bit and is addicting to fish and hard to put down...Catching fish on light line is always a good time, plus you can modify it for heavier tackle and use the "Concept" to target "Bigger Fish"...A Salt less Zinker in 5" size can be fished the same way, it just loses some of the action with thicker hooks, heavy line, and heavier weights etc...

7" Red Fin.....With a vew modifications you can add some weight for longer casts since it is hollow, but as long as you keep the V going....Not sure there is a better wake Bait imo... I have used the Spro BB-Z, ABT Wake and Strike King Wake Shad and Kong Shad, and a few other's from Glide baits etc...But a Gold and black 5" or 7" Red Fin works awesome. I don't know why, but when a 3-4lb Bass Smashes a Red Fin it sounds twice the size...If it is over 5...It sounds like a bowling ball falling into the lake, but you know you have a good fish if it just get's "Sucked Under"... I like to take some sand paper and rough up the paint to dull some of the flash to make it more realistic and bouyant. If you remove a treble hook and remove the line tie you can get it to swim over grass that is practically topped out...The only issue is the slighest Modification can make it run to the side and they need to run with a deep V to be effective...Just my take, but for $7 hard to beat the original.... The Buckeye Wake Up is long but thin and has a unique action but I have never been able to rationalize spending $25 when I do as good or better with the Red Fin...The Rapala BX Wake Is nice because of the paint and weight, looks like a million bucks, but it has never produced well for me..And I love to throw Red Fins and Bomber Long A's during the Post Spawn as my main technique offshore over emerging weeds...or steer it around topped out weeds where everyone else is throwing frogs and soft baits like flukes...Hardbaits get bigger bites, not as many, but better quality fish from my experiences, and I have watched Shiners that are 8-10" Long swim alone, and the wake matches the slow rolled Red Fin better than any of the big wakes I spent a ton of money on 2 years ago...

The only Inline I use consistently is the Mepps Black Fury and the Snagless Sally. I use a split shot or a swivel for extra weight on the Mepps, The Snagless Sally comes in bigger sizes so 1/2 ounce usually does the job and I like it close to the surface. I used to catch Trout using smaller 1/24 rooster tails etc. and adding split shots. Split shots work on everything for most part.

I think hooks and color options but I am not 100% sure. I know Lucky Craft came out with a few lures that cost much less. I am sure it will get plenty of Strikes.I actually like the size more than a standard 100mm topwater...

For different lures the treble hook can change the action so one way to do it is to keep it simple at first... Visit the website to find out what size treble hooks they use and keep the hooks the same size. For making sure you don't mess anything up (Of course you can fix anything) I would use stanard Inline Treble Hooks like the VMC trebles which are inexpensive and good. VMC also makes a #3 and #5 if you want to go a bit bigger or smaller...Also find out if they use a saltwater 3x strong or 1x strong etc. since that also can change a bait. keep in mind that using a thicker treble hook may change the action of a lure, but if you throw everything on heavy braid, then you may benefit from a 3x strong Treble, but I would buy them in bulk from a company online in the popular sizes since most cranks and Jerkbaits are usually #4-#6. It is good to change them out as they get dull so having extra treble hooks comes in handy...It seems everyone has opinions on what hooks are best etc...I just try to keep them sharp and I buy quality rings, don't go cheap on rings or replacement line ties...I have made that mistake...

Great Point. Now that I think about it they never really advertised. I guess that is how you know it truly is a great bait..Plus every company has made a copy which proves it is a good bait. Nobody has been able to duplicate the consistency and texture of the Original's, yet all cost pretty much the same if not more.

Slider makes a really good head that stands upright, and they have a few versions...Check out the spider heads..They also have a wide gap, and then they make a snagless which is different but has plenty of uses... You can buy the slider jigheads in pks of 20 and the spider Pro heads stand upright and you can throw them on heavy gear, they also have stand up jigs that have thinner guage hooks. I forget how they break down the 5 different models, but you can google and get good info...I find the Slider Jig heads to be the most versatile for shaky head fishing and texas rigging....Swim Jigs as well.... hagens Fish sells shaky heads in bulk, 100 or 1000, I think they have a few similar to what you want....I have never really looked at them but I know a few guys buy them in bulk and then sell them online... Actually Slider has added a ton of hooks that look like they may be a good fit.... http://www.sliderfishing.com/HEADS-HOOKS_c7.htm

You should have a few in living Rubber, a few with standard silicone for color, and then having some buzz but skirts or finesse skirts is important. I find the finesse or rough cut skirts with the fine silicone work really well some days...Plus they are cheap to make.

Go to Tackle Warehouse and click on top selling items....They are top selling for a reason...That should give you all the info you need to make your final decision even if you choose to go with a different brand etc... When I fish from the shore, I find terminal tackle is the most important since having the right size hook, weight, and ability to modify any lure or soft bait on the spot important. I wouldn't buy expensive lures since you can't get them back as easy. One lure I would make sure to have at all times is the Original Rapala Floater in Silver/Black and one in gold and black...F-9 size or F-11 should fit the bill.... Don't forget your ribbon tail worms...6" Culprits, and 7.5" and 10" Power Worms...and Split shots get more use in ponds for me than standard bullet weights...You can buy a pack of bullshot for .50 and you only need 4-5 sizes....You can add a split shot to any lure or bait and fish any spot exactly the way you want.

The action is really good, and recently they were on sale at a local sporting good store 2 for $15 so I grabbed a few more since they had some new colors I had not seen in person...I am sure they work fine, just like a frog....I have played around with them and the larger size seems to be the better of the 2 only because they seem to glide better which may or may not make a difference, and I like making long casts with topwater baits. I figure I will put one through a full test in about a month.... Regardless if it looks gimmicky, It has quality hooks, good color, Floats pretty good and only needs a squeeze every 4-5 casts, and they look great in the tackle box...that is important to me since I like buying tackle as much as I like fishing....And I love buying frogs and hollow body rats etc...So far I have found that almost every hollow frog is pretty good, with only one that I just can't buy after seeeing it in person....The Giant Mann's Frog could be the funniest looking lure I have ever seen. They can't sell them for $3.99 at a local liquidator which is odd, Mann's usually has good designs. Live Target has alot of lures that seem to be designed to catch fisherman (Like all companies I guess) but it is hard to argue with the success of the Live Target Frogs and Mice...So my guess is the Gill will be a winner.

I like the harder body of the Spro especially in heavy weeds, but they are both really good. I also like the action of the Spro a bit better, but you can't go wrong with either...Both are good frogs and for the price the Pad Crusher is tough to beat since they are often on sale for under $5...both are good, I would say they are different, but neither is better. It all depends on what you prefer.

Marketing and threads like this make them special. Plus paddle tail grubs work really good.

Medium Heavy Rod that says 1/4-1 ounce or 20-25lb rod is a good start. Fast tip and roughly 7' will work, and for line, Braid that is at least 10lb diameter seems to cast the best on casting gear(40-65lb test). You can also use mono if you think it will help, sometimes it is fine and you can handle most normal type areas with 17-20lb test if you don't want to use heavy braid. Just match the rod and reel, line to the conditions. If skipping a small frog into tight areas, you may want a shorter rod for control, or maybe even a spinning rod. I use a spinning rod for some small frogs when fishing shorelines that are not all that rough. 20lb braid is strong even on a spinning rod if that is better for you...Some Frogs are light but make sure you look at the hooks and make sure they do not require a ton of force to drive them home...One of my favorites is a tiny frog that Scum Frog makes and it has sharp but thin hooks. It is hard to cast on casting gear but little tiny frogs are becoming some of my favorites when fishing used water and for skipping.

There are so many good videos online where you can really learn alot. I would suggest learning in an area you know for sure holds fish. I would try to find a pond with a high volume of Bass and also an area of weeds and cover where you can work on your pitching technique since water entry and accuracy are often the most important parts of catching fish. It really is all about practice, and you will learn something new everytime you fish...The Strike King Bitsy Bug Flipping Jig is a good jig to learn with, the weedguard is a bit stiff, but you can fix that just don't cut them shorter without giving it thought, it makes them stiffer and complicates the problem... It is important to have the right Jig for the job..I like the advise above about using a pegged texas rig...If you can get bit on a 1/2 oz., pegged creature, you can fish a jig....Just my 2 cents....

I would experiment with different weights from1/32 to 3/16 but I think I use 1/8 the most since I fish water under 10-15' most of the time. Lunker City Makes Nail weights so you can see how much they weigh, but I usually just use bull shots and split shots for price. I usually prefer slower fall rates,but 3/16 may work best on some days....Kind of all depends, I just figure 1/8 is always a good starting spot when adding weight... 1/16 is perfect if it is calm, and for 15' you may want to go heavier if you are getting bit near bottom. 1/8 gets a worm down fairly quickly and you can maintain control over it even if the boat is moving etc...3/16 is a fast fall but may be needed if windy and if fish are relating to the bottom. You can manipulate fall rates with lb test and type of line, hooks as well. If you can get away with lighter line I find that get's me more strikes and allows me to use less weight which all can make a difference.90% of my strikes come on the initial fall....you know when it is right...

Prop Baits....XRAP Prop....Torpedo...but there are hundreds of good topwater lures...Rebel Pop'R is tough to beat, same as a Zara Spook...

Pick the one that offer's the color you like best.....Both are good lures, I think they are very similar as far as sound and quality, so I would select based on color....But that is just me. The Vixen comes in some cool looking patterns.