primetime

Sometimes the key to the walking bait is the pause, sound and vertical vs. horizontal....I like the zara puppy some days, large spooks others, but I rarely throw big walkers in ponds with success, I find they cause to much noise so I stick with the smaller silent sebile stick shads and bongo minnows, ima is to expensive to throw in ponds, the skimmer is killer, but here are 2 walkers that are inexpensive and I use as much as Ima if not more for the Rebel T10 with a dressed rear treble, it goes verticle and walks sharp, last one is bps slim dog, has vents and is thin, gets job done, old yo-zuri walk and pop is like a 3" thin gunfish and really good, yo-zuri does good on topwater so does sebile

You can walk the pop'r really well or do the 3 pops and pause but most would say poppers are for target casting and calm water, walking baits cover water and good for windy or clear since work them fast, but know they merged....During spawn or when bluegill spawn the rebel pop'r sounds like a bluegill and you rrcan cause a rucus without moving bait far but calling them in..3 sizes, but make sure you change to larger trebles or lots of swipers this time of year, I use #4 something thin but wide...Love me the pop'r in 50,60,70, old rebel Zell pops which are now xcaliburs, but rebel walks fast if you want it to and it will spit and chug almost as good as a chug bug, It is different but walks fast like the pop n image.

Those things fetch a few hundred dollars if Minn and not Finland, not sure why some are more, I am not good enough with cranks to know the difference between older warts and newer ones, but if they are like the older whopper stopper and bagley's then I get it for sure...Same with older rogues. How deep do warts run, 4-8???? If so not sure why I don't throw them, or is it 17' then I know why I never open them. Thanks. Awesome collection, vintage is the best, can'r replace em.

love the vintage stuff, nice bagleys and great condition, do you fish it still? I get scared using my older stuff, especially the original molds of bagley's balsa, new one's not in same league.

If I want to get some Hot shot action, I may just troll it, and cover some water, but your definition sounds and I think is the correct way, I knew it was not a typical cast and reel, but I am curious now, I think they look like craws.

I get the kwick fish and hot shot confused, I only used them when really young, but it appears to be a Jensen lure, I guess it is a crankbait so it can be fished anyway but trolling is most common for that flat fish I am thinking maybe...The salmon wide wobbling bright plug I remember using as a kid that was great and worked for bass as well. Who knows, that is a big hot shot though if it is one, not a lot of companies back then.

I have been buying a lot of them since I love the concept, I just tend to put a chatterbait on first but I have used them for years in saltwater and simply add a willow blade with swivel on my EWG hook instead of an MJ rig with a senko and it works for flash, but the roadrunners work great but I plan on learning the larger baits on larger underspins. That looks great.

Alligators are only dangerous if they attack which is like getting hit by lighting...I stay away but I watch kids throw stuff at dinasours that I would never go near, Heck, they rent kayaks on Hillsbourough and Kissimmee, that is gator heaven, Just careful in spring near shoreline. I fish Alligator lake and never have issues, boats are worse than gators.

Kapok park is legit and so are the ponds along the ream trail, also tower lake or ski lake behind the flea market..Just don't leave hooks or line on docks where they water skee near the jumps, but that is the best spot at times as it drops from 8-20' near the ramps and in winter that is the spot..Fish school on shad in that lake all the time, just stay away on weekends in summer, but think Race Track Road...We recently found a pond that is loaded with big fish, and the people never ask us to leave, the ponds look terrible but are full of bait..best way to eliminate water is bring bread, if you toss out bread near weeds in 2-3 areas and see absence of forage or too many tilapia than forget it...Carollwood is not so bad but just expect to get cursed out every so often, but nobody really every gets mad, plus I ask if I don't have permission, or I wear a bathing suit and towel and act like I own the place.

I live in Clearwater and know plenty of really good ponds from Pinelllas to Tampa. I fish out of a boat at times but mostly a Kayak in Saftey Harbor & Tampa since it is cheaper, easier, and I force myself to fish each area with full concentration and it has made me better as far as quality goes. Land Is probably the most fun, night time spring is my favorite by far, the bass are ambushing the shallows right now at night since the sunfish spawned b4 the bass in a few smaller ponds that hold some legit lunkers over 23". I know plenty of places to get you started that hold large fish and you will not get chased out as learning the tricks and how to work neighbors is an art...Tressbassing is a skill that you need to use with caution and make sure you are bringing value if someone is letting you fish private water, in Pinellas it is gold, we only have a few good ponds, 2 good lakes and Tarpon is not one in my opinion but some of the hiking trails are loaded with ponds and good fishin Pm me and I will give you some spots and whatever I can do to help out... Send me a Pm, I have a routine I do once a week of 6-7 of my favorite spots from the bank and when it is good it can be really good, Florida is DA BEST...The Private lakes are the best due to pressure although lately I have found that some of the parks are getting really good again.

Ryobi....bando...forget

I want to see one in person, have not looked, they look like the shape of the yo-zuri floating trembler ripbait which is a good bait so hopefully it has the reflection of light like yozuri and the cutting shape. Rapala always makes good stuff but I still think the BX wake and swimmers are new as well as scatter raps....Cant keep up, I have way too many original rapala's and minnow baits but I am a sucker if colors are good.

I don't throw frogs as much as my buddies do, but I find having some with the legs inward like the rage and zoom horny toads, sizmic toads are important since they give off a much more passive action than a buzz frog like a ribbit or Humpin toad...I like toads the best, I rarely use the hollow bellies and if I do I cut one leg since it does help cheaper frogs walk easier for me at least, but I find most frogs do not walk well in heavy cover, so I would also favor the popping frogs from Spro, booyah, and black is a great color to have since night casting is hazardous and they get crushed while sitting with long legs... You can find good frogs for a few bucks, I find some expensive frogs are great, some are not so good, some cheaper affordable frogs like booyah work fine for me....If you end up liking frogs they are addicting as I see that new colors are always coming out...For bottom color think forage in lake or ponds, many times fish have no idea they are hitting a frog, so if you have panfish, chart and orange is good, shiners some gold, and white is always good to have... I hear the diving frogs are decent but never used them, look cool but I have no time to learn new stuff.

The guys that work there are usually cool, I always ask if they have any hidden deals, same at Dicks, you find crazy stuff that way, Gander is hit or miss, Sports Authority is king when they shut down a department with up to 90% off, Man those were the days when we had 3 in tampa, was 75 plus 10% coupon so 85%, I grabbed all braid and expensive lures and made a pretty penny and got to keep more stuff I didn't need for free. BPS had some deals the other day but I knew if I opened the wallet then I would go to Gander and Dicks and I was in the Orlando region which is worse with bridgemasters and all the clearance stuff from past few years in one place. Gander rods were good this year, price was on point and mine held up and I got them for $29 last few with dings but were the Torray blanks that sold for over $100 and felt nice. Gander Reels used to be Pinnacle so I could order parts but now they are using *** in Tampa for some and they are outsourcing them so they are junk, but I had old Guide series reels that had pinnacle on the schematic and I was able to fix my baitcaster last year by using the parts from the Pinnacle Inertia but now it is some name I forget, but Tampa fishing or 13 is getting down with the new stuff and responsible for tampa store since they sell to my buddies store same reels.

Looks like a luhr Jensen Hot shot but they had several sizes and had different names. They are still made under Pradco since Luhr Jensen and it may be Lindy now but they are popular for Salmon for trolling but Bass guys use them I think, I get it comfused with that kwik fish lure that people troll all the time. Google images should have the Jensen vintage hot shot pics...They are easy to find if not made anymore but sure Pradco has them on their site.

I have been having line debates for years especially when I worked in a tackle shop spooling line, and I can say with 100% confidence that Fluorine (which is fluorocarbon monofilament) stretches the most by far which your findings illustrated. The low stretch came as a gimmick early on when the lines were so stiff that you couldn't use it for main line like companies wanted so badly since braid improvements in last 15-20 years is amazing and companies realized that people would pay $15, and be good for 2 years and now they are not selling enough line..IN comes all the fancy copolys and Fluoros (Notice the Saltwater scene or magazines till this day are not pushing fluoro main lines, those guys use heavy Mono leader which is expensive so no need to push fluoro main line and then have issues of breakage and learning time with it, guys who fish saltwater heavy use fluoro for leader for abrasion resistance, other than that I don't think they care about clarity etc. I use fluoro because I think it helps soft baits sink more naturally, is more stealth, thinner generally if good quality, but needs to be taken care of. I used to hate it but in the last few years, last 2 years it has gotten much better but it is a good shock absorber for braid, Mono is actually worse but nylon and copolys float since they really don't put much fluorine in copolys, it is about marketing money...Just watch Diameter, Breaking strength, and don't assume expensive line is better, only 3 factories if not 2 make pure fluorocarbon. The easier it casts the abrasion factor is less, but that is what leader is for, fluoro leader is stiffer than regular fluoro, that is something I would like to see tested, I can feel my baits better with fluoro to braid than Nylon mono to braid but maybe it's in my head? Also, I used to like line conditioner for memory, but fluoro is waterproof and sunproof and bullet proof, so a guy from Lockheed martin who is a smart guy with all this stuff told me that it only works because I want it too, and sun tan lotion would do the same as line conditioner, it is only good for your reel and for seeling Nylon if you believe it does that. I can't find a reason to put in on Fluoro because the memory is reduced by pulling the line while applying it but that is deforming it and stretching it which reduces memory since we all know how easy fluoro is to handle on spinning gear...But I like it as a leader and main line, I am careful, tie often, and you kind of do get what you pay for...Seaguar and Japanese companies seem to be ahead in the fluorine market, Hybrid is great if you want clear or green wire, 6lb is 12.8 lb test but makes a heck of a flipping line, not ultra soft though.....

Sometimes Smallmouth want chartreuse or orange something like a firetiger, but all advice is right on, when in doubt throw green pumpkin and if nothing, maybe go to a brown or white jig or plastic. I like fishing tubes and like the IKA, but love the Hydra by Damiki, although GYB will have colors that will be perfect and local bait shop will stock the "Magic colors" even if they are not magic, having what you know everyone uses on a lake and trusts gives you confidence and that matters most. I never tried the IKA's backwards but guys say it's a great way to fish them on here, I just have had success regular and have not switched it up but love the weight of the tubes being solid. The KVD dream shot is a killer bait as well for smallies and clear water bass in general. All colors in SK Rage line up are good, they only put out what people use or it seems.

I tend to follow the above only I would maybe try a motor oil Red flake if gp red flake is not working but rarely does a watermelon or green pumpkin not work...I used to always match the water color with the main worm tone when I fished a lot of clear water and that meant a lot of smoke and blacks & motor oil, then I would maybe go for smoke purple or smoke chart like mentioned above depending on sunlight, depth etc. I used to like clear water where I could find craws at the ramp or get a good look at what they were feeding on, if you can get a craw hatch color down like when they are more orange or have some blue or brown, that can really help, if sandy bottom Houdini has been my color lately and it has some gold flake for flash so it is good and subtle. I have always believed line color and diameter is the most important factor in clear water as well as sound, noise on boat or shore, splashing, but most off all, the right size and color hook, and NO extra hardware especially if using say a drop shot. I like the swivel hooks for ease and feel better with my knots but clear water with 10lb test could mean only a few fish, when the exact same line in 6lb or 8lb could increase your action big time. Line color is personal preference, I try to keep it simple and stick with clear but another color that people are always raving about in clear water is morning dawn, I have not used it all that much but it would make sense in clear water as a translucent since clears are alway's a must try so break out the salt and pepper as well....clear water is tricky but when you get it figured out and dialed in, you feel great, until something changes and it starts all over..I don't miss super clear water, but it makes you a better angler for sure. Good luck, if you think something will work, try it, pink could work, we all follow theories that seem to work but some days a weird color will work, red hooks are always worth trying, I am hooked on adding red to jerkbaits and cranks lately and it seems to work or I believe it does, so that is all that matters.

It is a Rebel 100% I have a few in that exact pattern I have not opened yet but I like the flash and the Rebel's have a nice action to them when slowly reeled under the surface just a bit faster than a wake bait and they tend to float up too fast for my liking but a few suspend dots fixes that. Good lure, it doesn't need 3 trebles imo however, if it is a newer Pradco model and has TX3 trebles then they are good, I usually pull out the middle and add a red split ring to most of my floaters, seems to get more strikes from fish more committed at killing it then they are at smacking it out of the way this time of year. If you could get bigger hooks on the rear in the spring it helps as a lot of days fish will just swipe it no matter what you do since they are just being protective. Its a good bait to work through spawning flats for smaller males and then post spawn offshore in early Summer for big girls recovering...Nothing says easy meal like a floater just doing it's thing looking like an easy catch.

He won one of his classics on a rogue while his jerkbait was out, but in reality, KVD would catch fish on a Matzuo Jerkbait because he spends all of his time fishing and is in the right spots, I am sure Strike King jerkbaits are very good as are all of there products. I would have confidence if all I had was KVD jerkbaits with me even though I never used one. Good hook, colors, plus it's KVD.

I made it in college fishing Berkley and Culprit ribbon tails, tubes and a few spinnerbaits and maybe a crankbait if I found one. I had a rebel in crawfish pattern, wee r I think that caught me fish for years...And you NEED at least 1 Rapala original floater in silver black and one in gold and black, F-9 is good size for 6lb test, and f-11 good for up to 10lb. I would look on ebay for some used inline spinners like rooster tails and mepps for pond fishing, pack of cheap frogs, senko's, rebel pop r, worm weights and 3 colors..black, green pumpkin, watermelon red should do it and then 1 that you like. Don't go cheap on fishing line. You don't need to buy Suffix 832 braid, but make sure you are buying a reputable brand. Saving a few bucks on line or quality hooks or swivels is not smart so you can get an extra bag of baits or a new shiny lure...Berkley Trilene, Stren and even Ande are good lines, make sure you pair them up with the right rod and reel (Reel needs a good drag) you can get good combo's for 40 bucks these days to do the job, and buying the right size hooks and quality, no southbend hooks etc...You can find sales on quality stuff if you look, but line and hook is key, go cheap on that, you lose all. Have fun, buy 1-2 lures at a time and actually learn how to use them and see if you like them instead of just buying a ton of stuff. Not everybody likes a buzz bait or tubes, or frogs...and jigs are not for everyone either, but plastics are.

if I kayak is not meant to stand in, don't get greedy and go for a kneel etc.... I could of lost all my equipment and I would have still felt like I won the lottery when I made it back to sure, glad I was near land when it happened...I probably should not use my kayak for stealth at night and follow large splashes hoping they are bass. I realized in the water that your feet feel super vulnerable at night and kicking in a panic... I bring my less expensive gear and most tackle is stored away but getting in was not an option, and 2 combos gone, so now I just need to make sure I never attempt to stand again for the 4th time in past year, but getting shut out for 4 hours when you imagined fish every cast at work makes you do crazy things. I never feel crazy since I know a guy who dives for golf balls at night with scuba gear and some ponds he frequents have legit T-Rex's in them that have to be hungry on a golf course. The bass fishing is not so great, and not sure what it eats, but dude has scars and stories...Good guy to know...He knows where the bass hang.

Here is something I was shown this year that worked great when normal hair jigs were not working or any cold water method...4lb test or 6lb if needed, roadrunner 1/16 to 1/4 marabou crappie jigs but they are in Bass Sizes when you get to 1/16, you don't need to float and fly them, just slow roll on the bottom or dead stick for as long as you can stand it and then just lift slowly and let it fall...The Maribou breathes on the bottom while sitting and a small silver blade or gold blade is key for flash, Hits are soft but once you locate fish they will hit if it lands on them and looks easy to catch.. Most guys throw jigs and drag slowly, c-rigs small baits, drop shots, really any bait can work if you find the fish...Rattle traps are good but may need to be fished slow. I used to use a lot of 2-4" grubs when I lived up north on 2-4b test trilene xl back then and a 1/8 oz jighead, some reason we always used smoke and silver or smoke, black....simple colors or pearl.

Float and fly.....just need water without ice, and nothing wrong with ice fishing....Live bait helps for bass under the ice but they are usually at large sizes in winter under the ice, we used to catch most on 2" minnows, but crappie jigs would catch bass and under the ice they used to always be larger fish than you would expect...Of course it helps to have other gamefish on the lake like Walleye, Trout etc.. Perch..Crappie, light line is key, a 4-5lb bass in winter fights super sluggish, almost a slow steady run without drag or barely any drag with 4lb test when in spring that is skill.

I like Houdini color these days, and I like the Houdini shad since I have a bunch of bags from a few years ago, zoom forked flukes for smaller sizes and for 5" and larger forked I love the D.O.A. Cal flukes in Gold Rush, but the Caffiene shad is my favorite...Casts a mile and that tail action is the best in my opinion, GYB has a good fluke that is similar as well....I still love Lunker City Sluggo's and the new slim sluggo's are awesome, not a lot of colors but AK shad is always a good color for most lakes. And black and blue flukes are all good, and key is the right hook and lightest line possible in my opinion, and toss one on a chatterbait and game on....Not a fan of paddle tail flukes, I use swimbaits for those, grass pigs etc.