tritondriver

the only thing hooked to your TM batteries should be the TM. add a 3rd battery when needed.

4 in-3/0 5in 5/0 10.5 in at least a 6/0 and RTCRW depending on length 3 or 5/0 you should have at least half or more of the bait free to move in the water. match the length of the bait to the hook.

mccoy also has a clear/blue..made in the USA..

there is a setup video on youtube on the SX there may be something in it that your missing, seems like the only time i have problem with the sx is when tossing weightless senkos but working on that one...all the others working fine...

falcon rod socks. cheapest place I have found them is the falcon webpage...great sock

the above knots do work, so if you don't have confidence in tying the knot I would use the tape, doesn't hurt a thing and no fuss..

I changed to the plano crankbait box as got tired of separating the hooks when trying to get a bait out.

cbfishalot hit on the head with the st.Croix premiers I have a boat load of all types and wouldn't trade them..i don't normally throw a crank at that depth and don't think the premier crankbait rod would handle that depth but just fine at shallower depths..

all you can do is keep changing the bait..check out d and m custom baits punch baits or other crawls. also I have found that fish aren't always in the thickest part of tulies, check for thinner patches and any openings and hit both sides of that opening.

i gave the sk glasses a try last year and after a few months the polarization started wearing off. looked like a oil spot on the lenses and would not come off, so just beware. with what we spend on our gear and boats i would rather spend extra on glasses that protect and last, then buy several a year at 40 a pop...get the good stuff.

if a thief has ur keys, I think they could figure it out, but then crooks are stupid...

bought an engraver...problem solved between boat, truck, house and camper..

if you are throwing TW baits that walk the dog, then get a rod that wont slap the water while working the rod. I use a 6.6 mh st. Croix premier mhfa that could also be used for worms if needed..but got plenty of those so no need to change

on my 2nd duramax along with Allison transmission wouldn't buy anything else..

both ways, but I use a nail weight in the center when the current is stronger than usual..

tackle wharehouse had them..

go put one in your hand, I have over 20 premiers and wouldn't trade them but I like a full cork handle where the mojo is a split handle..so see how they feel..

my .02..since its a new boat I would go with what you need to upgrade the boat and make it the best ride you can...then go with the PP...

I have four full racks in the reefer in the garage packed full and that don't count the ones in the boat..hey ya gotta spend the coin on something...

15 or 20lb McCoy mean green..

ask other boaters where they take their boats for service. the best mechanics are not always at the dealers, not saying they are not good, but there may be better in the area. but whatever you do take it in, there are different cables and if you don't do it right it could get even worse..

on ebay, but probably can find it other places http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/170975938297?lpid=82

on my triton the kill switch is a merc model so I bought the merc model lanyard. if you cant find it I have an extra one and will post the part number...let me know

you will get plenty of tips and knowledge here, but if you want to meet the old schoolers in person. start at the bait stores near the lakes or rivers u are fishing, if they hang out there the store will know. walk down to the docks or look under a shade tree but remember be respectful when you introduce yourself and go slow or they wont say a word...

besides CCA you should look to get as much reserve capacity as you can in your battery. if that is the original battery its pushing 6 years and lucky to get that much and if you are starting tournaments don't chance it, I would replace all of them..