gulfcaptain

It's like Matt Said, they have an agenda. Growing up and trying to make a living in the sportfishing industry came to a crashing end when they made rules to save "endangered" fish we didn't even fish for or want to keep. Now they have huge areas that are closed to all fishing to protect what they feel are key areas. Even after years of battling them we got a small victory but it took away a lot of great fishing areas. They don't care about the science they didn't collect or what fisherman or comercial (professional fisherman) have to say or what imput we have. It is a true uphill battle that is one sided and unfortunately it isn't our side even though 99% of fisherman would love to protect the same thing they do to keep intact the fisheries. But theirs is an extreme all or nothing way that doesn't include working with people that have other ideas and want compromise.

Grundens Rain Gear. Have 2 different sets, one set is over 8yrs old(more commercial grade bibs and fleece lined pull over jacket) and a light weight set for 5 years now and still no problems. May have to order them online, but they make a quality product that will last.

Correction....already had jig in there, but I would stick to that bait more then the worm.

Location would be the key to your quests and understand the fish you are after. What's the food chain? Some of the areas I fish they key in on different forage at times, will a certain bait work all year......maybe. But it is best to try and match the forage base they are chasing. Raul and WRB have great advice and lots of knowledge. I would say a jig over a 10-12" worm or a 2.5 squarbill. I would include them in your bait selection.

the "Flipping the Bird" is an awesome softbody frog as well as the Live Target Field mouse.

What Raul said and at night they can still see outlines of the bait which will help when they finally can see what they are pursuing.

some jointed lures they use the joints to make a clacking noise for added attraction, others use it to add movement. But yes it has to be done right or the hooks or joints can hang up and foul which is the bad part.

We have a city park lake that the bass stalk the baby ducks. There are only a few places where they can get out onto some rocks, when they enter the water they are picked off. See a boil, hear the baby duck and then a splash and one less baby duckling. Come back an hr later and facing the rocks along the shore you will see 6-8lb bass waiting for another chance for a meal. Within 2 days 12 ducklings reduced to 0.

If it's private waters, why don't you seine it. Gizzards are gonna be tough. Look up some of Bob Lusks articles dealing with gizzards as well as culling and selective harvests. Catching 2000 bass and distroying them sounds bad, and the thought of moving them does seem like a good idea, but if they are stunted and are older fish, that might be a bad idea. The white perch or I believe crappie compete for the same food as the bass do so getting them out will help the bass as well.

The rod you have is better suited for fishing spinnerbaits and cranks with the moderate action. I have two of them. You can dropshot with them but it isn't going to be as fast as the carbonlite which I believe are fast action. I use mine for spinnerbaits, bladebaits(chatterbaits) and shallow running cranks. Also works great for smaller topwaters like poppers and smaller spooks. I do use this rod in the spinning for dropshotting though as I like a softer action since I fish all braid with topshots.

Btw, if you do get Kaenon's, don't use your shirt to clean them.....EVER. You will scratch them. Use a micro fiber lens cloth to clean them. And they do have great customer service. I've had to have 2 pair replaced....lenes issues once and had a frame warp from them sitting in the car and get hot.

Maui uses glass, but have since moved to Keanan although they aren't glass. But Amber will work during both sunny and cloudy days. I tend to prefer gray, gives more of a natural color but I also do have amber lenses I use when it's really overcast. Water color has nothing to do with the color of the lens. The polarization takes the glare off so as far as sensitive eyes so both colors will keep your eyes from becoming fatigued. I can't wear anything that isn't polarized anymore without getting head aches from squinting. Working on the water I wouldn't be caught without a par of glasses. Costa's are also pretty nice. So before you get hung up on one brand, check a few out and see which frames you like and find comfortable.

Reading a lot of people suggest early morning and evening, well most of all my fish are caught between 10am and 2pm. Sunny days and afternoons when most stop fishing can be some of the best. Less pressure for one. and you can use the sun to your benefit. Sun forces fish to look for cover...shade, boat docks, weeds. You can isolate the fish and concentrate on smaller areas. Pick apart cover. Once you catch a few see if they are relating to the same things....if so pattern them. Dismiss the rest of the water and look for those productive areas. Just remember, it's a pond. a few days of good fishing on a certain pattern and you will blow through your fish at which point you will have to look for another way to catch them. I've had great bites for 2-3 days and then like a light switch not a bite. At that point you have to start over and look for another group of fish.

Edwin Evers crankbait rods are BPS Crankin Sticks. Then again, hey he has all the BPS lines to choose from as well as whatever they sale. I've seen Brent Chapman use the W & M rods as well, but also saw them break when he was flipping a fish in the boat. I do believe most pro's could walk in buy a rod and get the job done. They didn't get there by being "okay" fisherman, they are the top of our sport and work hard to be there.

Wire leaders, the one's I've encountered aren't really picky eaters....spoons, bucktails, did I mention wire...I would go with singlestrand and use about an 12-18" leader lenght in a weight of about 60lb or somewhere close by. Haywire twists are simple and you don't need all the tools, crimps, etc. They are fun, just remember they have teeth.

where do you get one of those at....that sounds like something I would be interested in using.....any added advantage has to help. Would love to have a sonar picture of the lakes/ponds I fish.

I thought that's how everyone fished Oroville that way too.

Consistantly grass jigs for me. Unfortunately the county/city lakes I fish decide to spray them with Copper Sulfate to kill the grass which then kills my bite because apparently the people walking aroud the parks think the grass looks ugly.

I would also fish a jig or flip a tube. If it's got grass don't forget a punch jig with a rage craw or the DB Craw. This has been my biggest bass producer this year on the local city park lakes which are heavily fished hard. But I would switch it up. If you're used to fishing senkos and finese options, go power fishing. I see everyone fishing senkos and drop shots, yet I manage to produce with a 3/4oz punch jig and straight braid fished in the grass as well as a few stray sight fish that happen to attack the jig when it hits the water. I'd say it's a 70/30 on those...IE I catch 30% of them. Think outside the box and try something new. If you're gonna fish a jig, leave everything else at home and only bring a few jigs and trailers as so you can't fall back and are forced to fish them. A swim jig may also be an option since you said the primary forage is bluegill.

they are great little baits. Seem to get bit when the bigger hollow frogs won't. Have a few of them myself and have caught more fish with them then any other frogs I have.

Randy Howell isn't sponsored by Rapala, but most of that last days catch was on I believe a DT6 Redcraw as I believe B Paulinik gave him a few more incase he ran out before he went to the Livingston proto type he had. So I do believe they fish whatever lures they want. KVD may be the only one that may only fish with Strike King, but from what other pro's say he gets all the good stuff first to try. But then again the lures SK makes for him fit his style of fishing and has been sponsered by them for years so his strong points are covered. Rod and reel, I think they fish with the top end level rods and possibly proto types or models that may not be released yet. So I'm sure rod and reel wise they do use sponsored equipment, lure wise, they try to use what's given to them but I'm sure they have other boxes of lures that aren't. And I don't believe SK makes a bucktail hair jig so I know atleast 1 lure that KVD uses that's not made by SK.

I would second the MS Slammer and BBZ's. But they are still going to run you $29-50 each depending on size. Triple Trout's are good as well but start a bit higher.

Rual's correct, it is another tool to use. Hudds are good but if you have pike, $30 a pop will likely not be wise but are great lures. I would suggest the Savage Gear 3D line thru trout series. At half the price and a top hook design you can fish these over weeds without any issues or breaking the bank. And they have good action. Hard baits are going to be a bit more expensive when you get into the larger models, but my advice start with the line thrus and move up. Swimbait fishing can be addicting and the bait monkey will be in full effect once you catch a few on it as well as see the followers that tease you without biting.

I agree with every thing above. Also not a requirement but most prefer a reel with a 7:1 gear ratio or better. Just have to find the reel that you're comfortable with and fits into your budget.

Pline CXX is my choice or FC depending on the fish. 20lb for 6" and 25 for the larger. Just make sure you have your drag a bit looser then you would with mono or you can rip the hooks out of the fish. Have to remember that's a big bait with weight they are trying to throw out of their mouth when they jump. I fall between the two. Fish 10-20ft topshots of either one. And I have had an 8" hudd go flying due to a small backlash so it can and will happen. Anything over $50 better float or it isn't going fishing with me.