martintheduck

Tried calling them. Put on hold. Then got an answering machine. For shame. Just going to swing by the local dealer and talk to them.

Have a breaker on red trolling motor. Have a breaker on the red of cranking battery. Followed the crank battery wire up until it enters the hull and can't find where it leads, so I took off the panel where the throttle is installed - found all the wires leading up into the console and to the bow.... nothing was leading towards any fuse panel. I did see what looked like 2 in-line fuses. Removed the radio and speakers from under the console too to see if something was hidden under there, but found nothing. So this is a big ole' let down. Time to learn yet ANOTHER wiring system. Crap. Geez I hate electrical flow

I bought a 2011 Xpress H18 a few weeks ago and in 5 trips she has been great to me. Other day I had an issue with the trolling motor going out. I started poking around in the wiring because I thought I might have blown a fuse. Ultimately, the on/off on the footcontrol was loose, so I managed to fix the problem and trolling motor is fine. NOW - When I was poking around, I realized my boat doesn't seem to have a fuse panel. From what I see all the electronics are running to a breaker at the battery. The only fuses I found on the whole boat were in the outboard... I think there were only 2 in-line fuses. So my question, or I guess my request: Can someone explain to me how this type of fuse setup works? How would I go about adding another fishfinder? Are there other inline fuses between, say, the trolling motor and the breaker on the battery which I just didn't see? Basically, I'm just all kinds of confused about this type of setup and have reached dead ends on google. I'm familiar with fuse panels, but have no experience with this type of setup. Thanks guys.

What you'll probably be using is a sonar. It will only give you relevant information if you drive directly over something. My sonar unit is only good for finding depth changes. WNYBASSMAN said it best already....scrolls from right to left. Right of screen is the newest information. Usually a transducer is mounted on the back of the boat somewhere near the outboard. So lets say the transducer is on the rear right side of the boat. NOW - the screen is scrolling (from right to left) and at the far right of the screen a fish is marked. That fish will be directly below the rear right side of your boat underneath the transducer.

I can't recommend something under $100. If you can spend a little more, I'd HIGHLY recommend a Falcon Bucoo 7'3 medhvy. I'm presonally not a fan of 7'11" flippin' sticks.

X2. I had a Quantum Code and it developed this same problem. Contacted quantum and they told me I'd have to pay for shipping both ways and for the parts. An $80 reel isn't worth $40 in repairs in my opinion. ANYHOW...I ultimately took the reel apart to try and fix it. BIG MISTAKE. I didn't know it would have some many unsecured tiny parts in there, so when I took it apart, a bunch of pins and shims and springs just fell out. Took me about 20 minutes to fix it and figure out how to put it back together, but I messed up the drag pretty bad so I'm left with a useless reel. (The problem ultimately was a spring that had fallen out of some little piece). I'd say cut your losses on a $60 reel and just stop using the flip switch. On another note - I had an extra rod laying around and figured I'd snag a cheap reel to make another flipping setup. Had good experience with my Black Max so I thought WHAT THE HECK And bought a Silver Max. I HATE THIS FREAKING SILVER MAX!!!!! First cast, the line guide broke - not even kidding. Tried to return it but didn't have the receipt. Super glued it back together. Piece of trash that thing is!

Quick googling rendered a good idea - might be good to get a storable ladder... one where you don't have to actually mount anything. something like this: http://compare.ebay.com/like/110261198466?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

Also - Posted a thread about the 175 a little while ago.... might benefit you. http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/120391-tracker-175-owners-please-stand-up/

Fished from a 1994 175 for some time and that boat is the reason I was looking into the new trackers. The quality on the new 175 is solid from everything I've looked at and read. I was dead set on a 175txw and the only reason I didn't end up in one is because I found a heck of a used boat for the same price. If you're looking at the 175's be sure to think about which one is right for you.... one of them has a lower deck with some cup holders and stuff up front which I wasn't a fan of.

Now that you have explained the c-keeper, I will buy into your setup. The past few weeks I've been messing around with my leader length and it's a pain to keep changing them out. I've seen the keepers at dicks before but never thought twice about them (because they are with all the catfishing stuff). I'll have to spend a couple dollars and mess with them. Sounds like it'll make changing leader length a lot less of a pain.

http://www.batteryjunction.com/energizer-capr22ode.html?gclid=CMvL_c_aurgCFWYV7AodySsAAQ I use this light. It has 3 modes - first click is a red LED light, second click is a dimmer white LED, third click is a spotlight LED. I only use lights when nightfishing for tying lures, baiting hooks, handling fish - otherwise, I sit in the dark and enjoy the stars.

Same setup I use, man. Tying up a c-rig is with the minimum requirements is already a chore... last thing I want to do is add more steps. I am intrigued though - what does a c-keeper do?

Biggest bass I've caught was on a shaky head. Haven't fished it in a minute though - been running a c-rig and deep crank baits. Might be time to pick that sucker back up!

I only use clips for crankbaits/jerkbaits. I've never had a problem using Eagle Claw clips from walmart. Never had one break. Clips are the same to me as split-rings: I'll spend $.99 for a pack of 10 rather than $3 for a pack of 5 Mustad brand split rings. I can't POSSIBLY believe there is much of a difference between the functionality of one clip -vs- another clip.

Blue fleck 10" powerworm. Caught everything from 5+ pounders to little 1 pounders. Good worm for c-rig and weighted worm setup.

X2. Maybe since it's an "older model ranger" it doesn't have one.

I don't understand what kind of information you're looking for. If you have two graphs, sure, mount one at the console and one at the bow. If you have two transducers then sure, use both of them (one at the trolling motor and one at the stern). At the moment, I have two low-end sonar/graphs mounted, but I only use the one at the console... when I drop the trolling motor to fish, I just swivel the console unit around.

Just made a thread a few weeks ago about my buying experience. It might answer some of your questions.... http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/121224-real-ticked-off-buying-used-but-finally-succeed/ Also - To briefly answer your questions - Be looking for any length boat, any size engine, and any brand which fits into your price range which you believe "I could be happy with that boat." When you find a brand or model, do research on the type of boat. Google information about them, read reviews, post a new thread if you MUST. Decide your absolute TOP DOLLAR and just research from there. Search ebay motors, iboats, boattrader, craigslist, facebook "for sale" groups, classifieds, etc... And also - request every possible catalogue from manufacturers. They are free, great toilet material, and give you a good idea of each manufacturer. I think I have 8 or 10 laying around

X2. I picked the worst time of the year to buy a boat, but got lucky.

Foreverlast are made in Texas. I'm telling you... great friggin tool. GREAT.

Can't speak on the lowe boats. I can say that I steered away from the 160 after reading up on forums and finding a couple of people saying "I thought I would be okay with the space on board, but after the first times fishing on the boat, I wanted more space, storage, and just a better boat." I just dropped by earlier to say the quality of the new 160's is pretty crappy. They have plastic cheap seats and minimal storage. If you plan on fishing open water at all, the 16ft is going to be aweful in any type of wind. There isn't enough space to add another battery for 24volt trolling motor. You might have a tough time fishing all day on 12volt. Performance wise it'll come down to the engine you choose mostly... from all my research, almost all aluminum boats have a similar hull design and will ride pretty much the same (the only exception being Xpress boats hyperlift series and padded hull series - of course that's just what I've read and experienced a few times in the 4 aluminum boats I've been on). I just want to point out what was pointed out to me - slow down on the buying. If buying NEW is an option for you, that option will ALWAYS be available. Slow down a bit and look at some used boats. Keep an eye on craigslist, get a feel for the market in your area. In my recent experience, I found this: there are some really problematic used boats for sale AND there are some REALLY great used boats for sale. I wanted to buy new just to avoid buying "someone else's problem," but in the end, I'm SUPER stoked I found an amazing used boat instead. I got a better quality boat, more horsepower, more space, a couple $200 Mustang lifejackets, and better trolling motor for the same price I was going to pay for a new pt175txw.

I was just in your position exactly man. First boat purchase, didn't want to spend "too much", just wanted something to finally call my own and have fun on. I fished out of a Tracker pt175 for quite sometime (with a buddy) and it became very obvious after quite a few trips - anything shorter than a 17.5ft is going to be just too small. Eventually, I got serious about buying and tried to have an open mind. I went and looked at a PT170 used and really liked it. In hindsight, I'm VERY VERY happy I did not buy that 170. The 170 would have been ENTIRELY too small! (I ended up buying an 18ft boat) I ended up in an 18ft boat w/ a 96" beam and FINALLY I feel comfortable when I am fishing. FINALLY I have some space to move around. Moral of the story: Don't buy a 160. It's the bottom of the barrel Tracker boat and everything is made poorly on that thing...that's why it's $9,000. My two cent's: Look into a used Xpress boat... a 17ft 2011 just sold on my craigslist for $11,000 with a 90 yamaha. I'm really happy I went with Xpress over Tracker - Xpress actually feels solid and rides a HECK of a lot better than any of the trackers I've been in. Literally, the best aluminum ride I've ever been in.

You must have never used these.... http://www.foreverlastonline.com/G2-Braid-Cutter-All-Alumimum-Pliers_p_54.html Best pliers I've ever owned. Zero rust. Good spring loaded action. Line cutters are great. Best fishing tool purchase I've made.

I laughed at this one. I feel you bud... "I had no choice babe... everything was on clearance! I don't know HOW I spent $150!!!"

Tungesten gives more noise when c-rigging. Using a weighted worm setup, pop a glass/tungsten bead between the hook and weight and you'll get some good noise attraction. Lead weights always get chewed up on the bottom for me, and sometimes get sharp edges - had those edges cut my line before. Tungsten doesn't chew up like that. Cheapest tungsten weights I've found are H20 Brand @ Academy.