Biscuit

What about the tines on a grass rake? You may have to grind them some to get the size your looking for, but the metal should be stiff enough for whatever your doing.

If you have the Lee Production Pot IV, there is a slot at the top of the plunger. Take a flat tip screwdriver and turn it to the right and then left a few times. This reseats the plunger and should stop the drip, but is only a quick fix until you pour again. I just keep a small wire and screwdriver handy when I pour. One thing that has helped me a bunch is using clean lead. I melt my lead in an old aluminum pot on a fish cooker (outside) and skim off the trash. Then pour the clean lead in small ingots and store. Also, like earlier said, keep a small drip pan underneath. (I only use the pot and fish cooker for lead, nothing else. Always practice safety when melting lead.) The production pot will drip from time to time which is normal. As you continue to pour you will learn how to keep the drip to a minimum. I have also notice that after a few years of use, the drip on my pot has slowed considerably since it was new. Maybe the turning of the plunger and considerable use over the years has helped seat the plunger for a better seal. Hope this helps.

I've been pouring for a long time as well, and have a large collection of molds. It sometimes scares me to think how much I have invested. I make almost everything I use and mostly mail order what I need. There is an abundance of tackle stores around me, but I very seldom buy from them because I don't have to any more. I do sell my work to off-set cost. Tuition comes with a price. If you love to fish, making your own tackle is taking that enjoyment to the next level, and in my opinion, is well worth the money I spent to learn.

I have used the Norman snaps for years and still use them to this day. I have never had one fail on me yet. Just tie one on using a pallomar and you're in business.

Because I have received several PM's and emails in referrance to this tool, this is what I'm going to do. I am going to pick a few of you to send my skirting tool to at cost. There is catch, you have to use the heck out it and let me know how it does. I have a couple of skirting tools left, so if your interested in testing my tool for me, let me know. Thanks everyone for your interest. Crackerjack

I placed the tool on this site mainly for everyone just to see it, however, I do have a few I can let go. Just email me at jrmayer03@yahoo.com and I will give you a price. Come to think of it, I might be willing to let go of a few of these tools at cost to some skirt builders just so they can test it and comment on it. My intentions are not to market this tool here, but I am looking for comments, good or bad. Any skirt builders interested, give me shout. Crackerjack

Hey guys, I don't post much on this site but mainly get more enjoyment just reading. I've been a Bass fisherman for well over 25 years, started making my own tackle about 9 years ago, and I tournament fish whenever I can. When I first got in to making skirts, I had a hard time using some of the skirting tools that were available. I never did try the high-end tools, but a $150 bucks just wasn't in my budget. I finally gave up and made my own. This was about 6 years ago and I use the same tool today. Since then, I've made 100's and 100's of skirts on my tool. This skirting tool has worked so well for me that I decided I would offer it to the fishing industry. Right now, one of the major tackle suppliers is interested in this tool, and if it passes their approval, you may see it in their next year's catalogue. I have enjoyed visiting this site so much over the years that I'm going to post a picture of the tool, which is called The Skirt Builder. Feel free to comment, and if you have any questions you can email me at jrmayer03@Yahoo.com. Take care, and I wish everyone great fishing and tackle making success. Crackerjack Note: I am picking a few skirt makers to send my tool to at cost The catch is, you have to use it and give me feedback, that's it. If anyone is interested just let me know. Thanks Crackerjack

Hey Ya'll, I just started pouring lead jigging spoons and am having some trouble. I am using lead purchased from a local battery shop. It has always done fine for jig heads and dropshot weights but it sets up too fast for a 1 to 1.5 oz mold. Any recommendations? I have been pouring for several years but have never used battery lead, however, when pouring the larger lead baits, you may have to turn the heat up some. I use a Lee Production Pot IV, and a setting of around 7 to 7 ½ should do it. Always check and make sure the melted lead is flowing out the bottom correctly, if not clean the hole with a piece of wire. Another problem is you may need to smoke the mold better using a candle. Over the years and many problems I have been faced with, there is usually 3 things that cause a bad pour. Insufficient heat, not smoking the mold properly, bottom pour hole restricted and not letting the melted lead flow into the mold fast enough. Second problem. How do you paint a large jig. I use the powder paint for jig heads but am trying to airbrush the spoons. I cannot get the paint to set up on the lead. Last but not least can you airbrush a clear coat or does it need to be brushed on? Thanks in advance for the help. It's been a little frustrating so far. Like I said, I have never used battery lead and am not sure if your paint is having a reaction to this type of lead which has been exposed to sulfuric acid. I do not like using the powder paint because of having to clean the eyes. I like a jig that's ready to fish when I pick it up so I prefer to brush my paint, even clears when needed. A lot of my jigs have fiber guards and I hand paint them. Don't know what type of paint you are using or what type of jig you are making, however, I am using automotive paint adding the reducer and hardner. Some jigs don't require much detail so an airbrush is not needed. You may want to airbrush spoons for better detail. Just make sure the surface is free of any oils before painting. You can use a solvent or a rag and plain alcohol. If all fails, I would try another type of lead. I go to the scrap metal yard and buy lead pipe. Good luck , I hope this helps.

Well, I started off some years ago recycling used plastic baits which taught me how to pour. I would save all my used plastics in a bucket. Later on, I would separate and organize the colors, melt and pour them. When using a hot plate, I prefer to use a small aluminum pouring pot that has a lip. The aluminum will distribute the heat better and the lip will help control the pour. I am not into the plastics very much any more and pour mainly lead. If you had some lead questions, I could probably help you better in that area. I am sure there are others here that can better help you with the plastics. However, I make my most of my own jig trailers and I still use recycled plastic to make them. I save some bucks doing this. A non-boater does not have to clean up his left over plastics after fishing with me, they go into my recycling bucket. Good fishing.. Crackerjack

I assemble my own skirts using a pair of needle nose plies and a small amount of Vaseline. If you buy your skirts already assembled, just wet the jig (saliva) or very lightly coat the jig with Vaseline, then slid the skirt on.

I am new to this site, but may be able to help some. I have been pouring for some time and this is how I turn an idea into a bait. This method works well making jig trailers and other small profile plastic baits. I first start with an idea, and then transform my idea out of modeling clay. The bait needs to have somewhat of a flat bottom since it's going to be a hand pour. After my modeling clay replica is complete, I gently coat the entire bait with Vaseline. I then place the bait right side up, on the bottom side of a two piece cake pan which is about 6" in diameter. The two piece pan has also been coated with Vaseline. Now you want adjust the bait into whatever position you want, and should adjust easy because of the Vaseline. Then I clamp the side ring. Make sure the bait is centered and has no less than 1/2 inch distance from the sides of the pan, if your bait is too big, get a larger pan.. I then mix plaster of paris in a bowl to where it is a little on the thin side. I like to mix slowly using a spoon to avoid as much bubbles as possible. I then very slowly pour the mix into the pan making sure the mix covers the bait to at least 1/2 inch. The next day, I unclamp the side ring and the mold should easily release from the pan. Gently pry off the bottom and you can now see the bottom side of your bait in the plaster mold. I then take a small ice pick type tool and very gently pick out the modeling clay. The modeling clay is then washed and returned for the next idea. Then, I very carefully shape the bait cavity cutting off ruff edges, smoothing where need be, and if you want eyes or warts, take a small drill bit and place shallow holes in the mold cavity. After the mold is ready, I coat the mold with modge podge to seal it. After the coating is dry and just before I pour, I coat the mold cavity with mineral oil. The oil is what I use to make sure I don't get a dull finish on the bait. After I am done, I store the mold in a freezer bag leaving the bag open so any remaining moister can escape. Now you can transform your idea into something the fish haven't seen before. Good luck and I hope this helps, Crackerjack