iceintheveins

It has a slower action than the tourney special. Best cranking rod you can buy for the money IMO. I have two and love them. They are good for spinnerbaits and topwaters as well.

X2

I have never had an issue with hooksets on flukes, even with 6 - 8 pound mono. Even a small bass usually totally inhales it. Just take all the slack out of the line and hammer the hook home. Make sure also you are using a medium heavy, stiff graphite rod.

As others said, the super spot runs a bit shallower, has a little bit wider wiggle, and is a little less noisy than the same weight Rat L Trap. I just use the spot in shallower water and the trap in deeper water or murkier water. Both are great baits and catch tons of bass and anything else that swims (walleye, trout, pike, big panfish, even catfish).

The only thing I use 6 pound line for is drop shotting, zara puppies, deep finesse plastics, and light balsa cranks.

Your only problem is the gear. Go with a heavy power rod and at least 50# braid. You will do fine after that, although missing some strikes is part of frogging. Casting gear is best.

For spinning, I would go with a BPS Graphite Series Rod with a Pflueger President. That will cost you right around $100. For casting, an Abu Black Max and the BPS Graphite Series in a casting model will do you good.

Spinning gear is great for cranks that are 1/4 of an ounce or under. In clear water without a lot cover or where you need extra distance, spinning gear is great for these applications. I can cast 1/4 ounce cranks on casting gear just fine, but if I need extra distance and depth for clear water and spooky bass, the spinning rod gets the call.

I prefer 12 - 14 pound mono for most applications. Upsize to 17 pound mono or 50 pound braid if the cover is really thick.

I would use a 3/0 EWG hook, 12 - 14 pound mono or fluorocarbon, and a 7' MH casting rod with senkos of that size.

X3

Yeah this is crazy. I wonder if they used something acidic or a reaction produced something with a low enough PH to weaken the metal.

I don't know how. And I mean the spool broke right in the middle, the metal just cracked and broke. I am still in disbelief.

No. 15 pound mono on the PQ and 10 pound mono on the Curado, drag set normally like I always do, not totally locked down.

Not the shaft bent, but the spool on each reel cracked right in half. I already sent both reels in to be replaced, wish I would have taken pictures. Shimano told me today they will just replace the spool on my Curado 200E5 since that reel isn't made anymore. I have always been very careful and taken great care of my reels. In my almost 20 years of using baitcast reels I have NEVER had this happen.

Boy was today ever a disaster to me today. I broke not one but TWO baitcasters today. The spool of my Pro Qualifer and then my Shimano Curado just flat out broke when I was reeling in a decent fish on each setup. I have never seen anything like this!!!! Everything else on both reels are undamaged except for the spools. I had the reels serviced recently and I believe that could have been the reason. Could someone have damaged them? The reels were acting fine and normal and neither fish was a monster when the spool broke (about 3 and 2.5 pounds). Anyone else ever have this happen? Good thing I have a warranty on both reels.

Slow gear ratio in the 5 range for cranks or slow fishing spinnerbaits. Also prefer a slow reel for dog walkers and poppers as well.

Senko, Fluke, or Pit Boss.

1. Yamamoto 2. Zoom 3. Strike King

I have a small boat, so I usually fish alone. In the middle of the summer is when I carry the most rods because the greatest variety of techniques work. I carry five casting and two spinning. 1. 200E5 Curado spooled with 10 pound Stren. 7' BPS M Crankin' Stick (cranks, light topwater, light spinnerbait) 2. BPS 5.2:1 PQ and a 7' MH Crankin' Stick, 12 pound stren (Heavier spinnerbait, heavier topwater) 3. BPS 6.4:1 PQ and a 7' MH BPS Tourney Special , 17 Pound stren (jigs, creaturebaits, heavy spinnerbaits, heavy topwaters, heavy senko or worm) 4. Daiwa Megaforce, 7' KVD Crank Rod, 12 Pound Stren (buzzbaits, rage shads/toads) 5. BPS 6.4:1 PQ, 7' H PQ Rod, 50 pound power pro (frogs, heavy cover, punching) 6. Pflueger President Spinning Reel, 7' MH Quantum Alliance Spinning Rod, 8 pound stren (senkos, flukes, smaller worms and plastics) 7. Pflueger President Spinning Reel, 7' M Browning Silaflex Rod, 6 pound stren (light balsa cranks like #5 shad raps and tail dancers, zara puppies)

Pro Qualifier 5.2:1 and a BPS crankin' stick 7' medium.

Suck it up and buy a Pro Qualifier from BPS. Best baitcaster under $150 out there. Once you go more expensive, a Revo or a Shimano Cronarch are the way to go. Cheap baitcasters, especially store brands, blow chunks. A good baitcaster is your best friend though. More accurate and smoother than a spinning reel, and way less line twist/memory.

My friend swears by his.

At 7/8 of an ounce, I would be using HEAVY line, at least 17 pound mono on heavy casting gear, especially if near cover. Even a 2 - 3 pounder can lodge into thick weeds easily and get off if you are undertackled, let alone a big bass.

3/0 EWG with a 1/4 ounce parasite weight. If needing to punch through heavy weeds, use a 1 ounce.