Ski213

You're best bet is to contact Humminbird directly. Often they discontinue a model of fishfinder but newer models will work on the same transducer as older models often, sometimes not. You can figure out what is or is not compatible from their website but it may be faster just to make a phone call.

In my personal experience people, myself included, generally set too soon. It's so hard to wait when one nails it. I don't fish a frog a ton so others could probably give better advice, but I wait till I feel the fish.

I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this but it is technically part of a boat part. The part I'm asking about is the one the key is touching. There's a spring under it. You can push it down to where the piston part contacts the larger piece. There's nothing wrong with that particular part, I just have a real hard time not trying to figure out how stuff works when I've got it apart. Thought maybe someone here had dealt with hydraulics. I'm sure this little piston or valve or whatever isn't specific to the marine industry.

Exactly. So as I'm exiting I have that one last chance to make a stand should I decide to. If not I'm as far from the 50 gallons of gas as possible when I start swimming.

It won't let me PM you. Email is adamg0794@hotmail.comThanks

Very cool to be able to bring her back. I'm sure it will be some cash and a lot of labor but it will be worth it no doubt. Keep us updated on the progress.

So correctly done you're actually re routing the cooling water. Half ***ed you're I guess you're helping some but you're not routing the water as much as just giving a little of it a chance to get up top earlier? Cool to hear what the cooling mod is actually intended to do versus just hearing the cooling mod is done. I'd sure appreciate the pics. I'm not a marine mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. I've banged around on this and that. I'm not ever super comfortable tearing into something that I have limited experience with but that's never stopped me in the past. Probably be worth the work to know where this engine stands as far as what has and has not been done properly. Even if its wrong I'd rather know than wonder. I appreciate your time once again.

That is a sweet looking boat. Looks like it has the storage and casting deck issues covered. Best I can determine one can be had used for $80-90k. Ouch. Nice dang boat nevertheless.

I'm checking the carb sync right now. Went through and set all the screws back to 5 out. Just going to work back through all of it. Yeah you're right fattening the idle circuit would do nothing at 6000rpm I guess. I can't remember what the mains are. I checked them last year and I do remember them all being the same. This engine was a victim of the pin issue before I bought the boat. Supposedly the cooling mod was done as well as something for the pin issue. Maybe going with the wiseco. Previous owner had the work done. I've known him and im sure he told me what his mechanic told him but unfortantely I dont have a whole lot of trust in alot of shops. Shot the head with a ir thermometer awhile back and there was definitely some deviation at idle. Checked the stats on both banks and they seemed to be fine. I checked after running once and they were +/- 5 degrees. But now that I think about it there very well could have been enough down time for it to all balance out before I checked it. You helped me out a ton last year with the original issue I had. That dash bulb trick is slick. I was using it then to check out where I was as far as rich/lean and I also took a look at the cylinder wall since I had a cylinder not fueling right to see what the damage was. Could still see the hash marks from the honing but could also tell there was a touch more wear. Haven't looked in there in awhile though so ill definitely keep an eye on it.

I think I get what you're saying. 96 and later I'm metering fuel so backing the needle out I'm allowing more fuel vs pre 96 where backing it out allows more air so leaning her out? I think I'm as solid as I can be with my on the linc and sync given my limited experience with outboards. I'm going to set everything back to factory settings and see what that does I guess. Given your experience with these motors would you say that i'm experiencing heatsoak? If so is it best just to deal with it or should I take the time to try to tune it out of it?

Alright. I appreciate the advice. I've got conflicting info on initial settings. I think it's a typo in the service manual (seloc manual) so not the true service manual. There's overlap in the year models. My assumption is that at 96 it should've gone from 2.5 turns to 5. I haven't checked all six but 2,4,&6 were all different. Ranging from 6.5 out to 4.5 out. 2 was the fattest. Maybe the last guy did that to keep it cooler as 2 seems to be problematic on these. Cooling mod was supposedly done but I don't guess I can verify that with the engine intact. I'm definitely going to check out the carb syncing deal. Again i appreciate the responses.

I've never fished a center console for bass on inland lakes but one disadvantage I could see is not standing as high in relation to the top of the boat. Prob depends a lot on the particular boat though. A lot of that stuff is just personal preference. If you've fished center console in the conditions that you typically fish and had no big issue with it other than it not bothering your back as much then I'd run with the center console for sure. I'd agree with what was said before about them being more versatile. If I lived closer to the coast that's what would be in the driveway.

And by up front I mean in a compartment. It takes up some valuable real estate but it's a pretty important piece of equipment so I deal with it.

I have a small one that tucks in behind the middle seat. That may not be possible to do depending on the boat. I keep a larger one up front. I figure that way if I have a raging fire on the outboard I'm as far away as possible getting an extinguisher.

When I bought my boat there were some fuel issues. Got the largest part of that ironed out a year ago but fixing the big issue created a small one, depending on your definition of small. It's a 97 johnson 225. In the morning it fires up and you're gone as soon as you hit the hot foot. After it's been run and you've fished and you're ready to move it wants to die when you hit the hotfoot. After varying amounts of idling and priming it will get on out of the hole and it's fine. Heatsoak was mentioned to me and that's prob it but I want to mess with the low speed adjustment some. I'm used to one carb on a motocross bike, not six. So my question is when adjusting do you adjust equally across all cylinders? Say 1/4 turn on all six? Or is that too much at a time on one of these?

We did this for a pond once. As has been said prior we used a cooler and an aerator. Spliced a cigarette lighter plug thing into the aerator. Put the cooler in the back of the truck and ran the wire through the window. It worked pretty well. We didn't lose any. I think the key was minimal time out of the water. There's a science to stocking. Fish and wildlife will generally help you out with that for a pretty minimal fee. That being said we winged it and got some fish going. Kind of rewarding to take a new pond that's barren and get some catchable fish in it.

Congrats! Good looking boat. You're gonna love it, then you're gonna hate it, then you're gonna love it again. Best part is if she starts giving you grief you can always fall back on her being the one that put it in front of you. In all seriousness its cool that she did that though.

i don't drink when I am, or am going to be operating the boat. I treat it about the same as I would on the road. I enjoy boating and I enjoy responsible drinking. I think you can do both but I also know that even if you have one or two and get in an accident that's not your fault you're going to pay. Whether or not alcohol actually had anything to do with it so I do my drinking from the waters edge. Not judging anybody, just what I'm comfortable with.

What a shame. Folks if you need any additional convincing after reading A-jay's post then I don't know what to tell you. I generally don't wear one when I'm not running and I should. I've heard all kinds of excuses for not wearing one even when running the water. "I'm a strong swimmer". That's the most common. You're not a strong swimmer when you're unconscious, injured, or even just disoriented. It's one thing to know that in three seconds you're gonna have to swim. It's another to be thrown out of a boat or off a tube or whatever and in a split second you're in the water at speed, or even just falling overboard, upside down panicking and everything else. You suck down a liter of water and now even if you know where you are and what you need to do there's a good chance you can't. It's scary. I think we tend to spend more time picking out culling tags than picking out a quality life jacket that is first off effective and secondly comfortable enough that we actually will wear it. I'm as guilty as anyone. It's easily the most important piece of equipment we use in a day on the water. Thanks to this thread for the reminder.

Ok. I just looked back on the other topics you had about it. Sorry to hear about your dad. It sounds like it goes in reverse in the water and in forward only when not under a load? If you've eliminated the hub It could be cable adjustment I guess but since you had said it sounded like it spun something I'd think its in the lower unit. Has anything been done with the lower unit or controls, etc or did it just happen? Have you drained or checked the fluid in the lower unit? Be looking for excessive metal shavings.

I've had several boats over the years but a glass boat for only just over a year so I don't have years of wisdom on the topic. That being said I think a lot of things are just personal preference and how and where you're going to use the boat. You definitely don't want to be underpowered. What feels like too much in the beginning will feel like not quite enough once you're used to it. Storage can be important. When I bought mine I though man ill never fill this up. Wrong. Very wrong. Mechanically there can be a million problems and I guess it's kind of a gamble. Even with a test drive and a mechanic looking it over you just cant know what is five minutes from failure. Probably best if the boat has been kept inside and there is some evidence of good maintenance on it. I will say that I would rather buy a boat that has been used more than it has been sitting. I have more issues with vehicles, four wheelers, boats, etc. that don't get used than the ones that get run constantly.

When you say not going in do you mean there's binding at the controls? Does the shifter move but the lu doesn't actually engage forward gear?

I'd definitely check the idle issue out. Could be a number of things. Maybe just a simple adjustment. Could be lean though. Not a great situation for a two stroke or any engine for that matter. Mine had a real high idle that was a combo of fuel pump and an incorrectly assembled carb. I did have symptoms other than just high idle though. Either way that's a lot of money bolted to the back. Worth the time to get it right. Congrats on the new boat!

Maybe they were just chilling out. Sometimes I get caught up in the big boat, find a pattern, cash a check way of fishing. Don't get me wrong, I love fishing wide open for bass but that's not the only way I like to fish. Sometimes it's nice to just grab a tub of worms and a bobber and sit and watch. No science, no pressure, just fishing to be fishing.

Don't let the mud get you down. They've gotta eat regardless of clarity. 58 seems crazy low for your neck of the woods right now. Maybe a spring feeding it? My best results have always come with a tequila sunrise worm Texas rigged in small, muddy water. Vibrating, noisy lures, etc make the most sense but I've always had better luck with the worm. I'd throw that or a heavy dark colored Colorado blade spinnerbait. Not like a conservative blade, one that feels like a helicopter on the end of the line and I like a slower rhythmic retrieve with that. Don't know if it makes a difference but my thought is that they can nail it easier than the erratic retrieve I would use in clearer water. Just experiment but don't be put off by the water clarity.