Ski213

I would imagine that just about any Jon boat that size would fall well under 1000# including the trailer. When you start adding decks, batteries, etc. you are adding weight but I still think you should be fine on weight. When you're shopping make sure you do your homework as far as stability if you're wanting to add a deck. Also pay attention to what the hull is rated for weight wise. Unless you go with aluminum decks you add a fair amount of weight with decks.

Years ago I read about modifying a spook. The ones with the brackets holding the hooks. You remove them. You then use screw in type eyes and a split ring in their place. Downsize the trebles and add one for a total of three. Drill a hole big enough to insert bbs into the lure body. Start dropping them in and shake till you get the desired sound. Then epoxy all the holes from removed brackets, etc. He said you can also move the line tie up a little to change the walking action but I've not tried that particular mod. I've had good luck with these. They now make one off the shelf that essentially has these mods. I really don't feel like it performs the same though.

Earlier this year I started throwing a different lipless than I have in the past. It's a strike pro. It has two places to place the split ring. Anyone else have any experience with these? If so, do you know what the benefit or point is of the second position?

First off welcome and congratulations on the boat. My biggest piece of advice would be to spend a lot of time looking through the forums. Tons of great info here. Transitioning to bigger waters can be tough. You'll get a lot more detailed advice, good advice. My simple advice would be to find baitfish with larger fish close using your graph. Fish there. Its your highest percentage shot in my opinion.

That makes sense. Man I love that skipping across the chop feeling. Nothing like it.

Alright well I feel a little better about what I'm doing then. Hopefully I'll get to mess with it Monday. I'll definitely try the letting off the gas thing. Why does being too high cause extra temporary bow lift?

Yep, just for discussion purposes. I don't love the idea of overhead wet sanding but I love it alot more than what it would take to flip one over. Alright I'm getting a better understanding of how this all works. I crawled around under it this afternoon and checked out everything you're talking about. I've looked at it before but it starts making more sense how it works when you're armed with some knowledge. Now I can kind of visualize where the hull is at in the water when I'm feeling it step its way up. Pretty neat stuff. Kind of a simple concept with a whole lot to it. The leverage point makes perfect sense now that I'm starting to get a basic understanding. I did what you said checking where the outboard is perfectly flat in relation to the hull. It's about 3/4 up on the gauge. Then its got about another 8 degrees at the anti cav plate to the end of the trim range. I need to totally revisit how I'm driving this thing I think. There's a little more to it than this but I'm basically hammer down out of the hole, once it planes out I start trimming up. I'm on the trim like its the throttle. I don't even think about letting off the trim until I'm almost topped out. Then sometimes I pause and bring the plate up a little. Then I trim all the way out. Then I watch the pressure gauge and start messing with the plate more. I'm thinking now that's all wrong. What you're saying about it being ideal for the prop to be pushing forward rather than lifting the hull makes a he** of alot of sense. I never even thought about that before now.

I think there's what's left of a one in front of 40. If so.. http://boatpropellers.iboats.com/Mercury_Marine-Black_Max-Propellers/48-73140A40/

You've got a da** impressive knowledge on these things. I'm a total beginner so keep that in mind when I ask this. Lets say you flip the boat over and look at it that way. The keel then is like the roof ridge. The highest point when upside down The first rib from the ridge would be the first riser? I'm making an assumption that the pad is the back maybe three feet that falls between the first risers. There's a real small back part that steps up. I'm assuming that is to channel water to the prop. What is that called? Is the hook what gives it the lean left when just starting to trim up? I think I'm picturing exactly what you're talking about but I want to make sure.

I think I found him. Would he be lake Chickamauga area? The website is mostly geared toward outboard performance but I imagine it's the same Paul Nichols. When you blueprint a hull are you mostly trying to ensure that its true and symmetrical on both sides?

6" plate. Technically it's closer to 5.5". Venom 225. I like those numbers. That's moving on. I know what egts are but that about the extent of my knowledge. Closest I've come to that level of performance monitoring was looking at afrs on dirt bikes when trying to really get them dialed in. What are you looking for with the exhaust temps? I'm pretty happy with how this thing does given my lack of ability to drive it. The guy who had it before me was kind of a bolt on performance guy but I feel like he did a little homework. He was on scream and fly and referenced racer who now that I'm doing the math I'm thinking is your friend. I'm still learning the ropes. Kept it from chine waking a couple times last time out. Long way to go though.

Thanks guys for the advice and for the links. It's a 201 pro elite. Moves pretty decent for its size but I'm always wanting more speed. Learning to drive it has been a bit more of a learning curve for me than I expected. It drives itself to low 60s. After that it starts getting pretty sensitive to everything I do. Looking forward to getting that last little bit out of it. As always y'all's help and advice is greatly appreciated.

I think I understand how to measure shaft to pad relation. I level the pad. The only way I know to describe what im calling the pad on my boat is that its the small section that's stepped up at the stern. I'm leveling off of that which is a much different angle than the plane of the main hull. I'm then leveling the outboard using the anti cav plate as a leveling surface. I measure from pad to ground and then centerline of propshaft to ground. If I'm 16" from the pad to ground and 13" at then prop shaft I'm 3" below the pad correct? Now that im thinking about it I guess the number doesn't matter that much. It's just a reference. Could measure it however so long as you always do it the same way every time. I guess my question is what is the best process to determine the optimum height. I know that set back, the particular prop, and hull all make it where there's no magic answer. I am no where near that level where i understand lift and prop pitch, etc. and what it does for me. I'm just looking for advice on the general process of finding the sweet spot with my setup. I'm running a hydraulic plate so I have a gauge of engine height, I've got a water pressure gauge as well so I know when im getting to thin.

You also might consider buying a meter. You can buy one that will accomplish what you need it to fairly cheap and it's indispensable for troubleshooting wiring. It really allows you to isolate what and where your problem is once you learn how to use it.

You can just disconnect the trailer plug from the truck when working on trailer wiring to de energize the trailer wiring.

One other thing. Make sure any fastener that you use that passes through the transom is ok to be in contact with whatever wood you use. Probably not super critical in your application but some of the wood treating chemicals can wreak havoc on dissimilar metals in fasteners over time.

I can't help much with how to etc. As far as wood, folks I know have used marine grade plywood, pressure treated plywood, and form ply. If you can get marine grade that's the route I would take. Form ply is used for concrete forming. It's pretty tough and resistant to water and generally pretty available. I would not use pressure treated. Whatever you use, I would seal it after it is cut to size and drilled. Pywood's weak point as far as moisture absorption is the ends where water can get between the layers so pay special attention to those areas.

If you're going to take it to a dealer or mechanic don't tell them to replace all the livewell stuff. Tom is telling you to have them check the fittings and hoses. I think there's a good chance that replacing will fix it but its a gamble. There are times when you have to throw parts at something to hopefully fix it. I don't think that's your particular case. Tell them to find the problem. Testing on the water is best in my opinion but all the livewells, livewell fittings, and thru hull fittings can be tested out of the water. Regardless of how you attack it, you definitely need to get it taken care of. Wood is more susceptible to water than glass but glass can also be damaged in certain situations. Water can be wicked between glass mats and cause de-lamination.

I'm trying to attatch a picture. Not sure if its gonna work. It's not your hull and its terrible since I took it using a flashlight but maybe it'll help. There are four thru hull fittings that you can see. Outside right and left that have the strainer, those are intakes for the livewells, the two in the middle are livewell drains. Yours may be different but shouldn't be much different. If I were to unscrew the strainers on mine and plug all four hull fittings , I would be isolating my livewell plumbing from lake water.

Ok thanks. Good to hear. I can definitely live with it. Was hoping I wouldn't get a "yeah mine did that right before it grenaded" from someone.

I think it's discontinued. Might try the auction sites though.

^ that's a good tip. I'm gonna try that for sure. Probably not as bad to deal with down the road as using the 3m 5200 either.

I'm pretty envious of the guys that never have to stop for winter. Technically I can fish year round here but I generally don't cause it can be pretty miserable some years. We have some good fishing left though. My goal for next year is to fish more than I have this year.

Thanks all. I'll double check the trim posts. I think it's doing it before it gets there but I'll make sure. Sounds like what it's doing is somewhat normal. I appreciate it.

Good point. Often when I try to fix something that ain't broke, I break it. It is an OMC unit. Looks like the tilt limit is triggered by some kind of ring with a cammed portion that hits a switch? I haven't got a real good look at it yet but it looks it might be more trouble than its worth to fix. It's only an issue if I don't remember it's broke I guess.