Ski213

If it's brand new I'd let the dealer fix it. I don't know that it being turned will make a big difference but it should be vertical. It can be rotated back if you don't want to fool with the dealer.

Is it actually bent or has the housing rotated?

Unfortunately I can't give any advice on the pump. As far as premix I usually go oil first then gas on top. Don't know if it makes any difference but I feel better about it.

It's not a huge deal but it's also not as easy as dumping fuel in one tank and oil in another. My injection was OMC vro. I know nothing about your setup. As I now understand it vro got blamed for a lot of failures that it wasn't responsible for. My pump was 14 yrs old when it failed and it failed on the fuel side. Just do a lot of homework on your setup if you haven't already. The one benefit of premix is that you know she's getting oil.

I don't have the injection anymore but there are times I wish I did. The premixing is a slight inconvenience. What has worked ok for me on the fly is having a couple bottles that I marked with a sharpie at a point where it's the correct amount of oil for five gallons. If I'm doing more than ten gallons I use a measuring cup that I keep in the truck box.

I don't know your exact setup but it could be the timer. Do as suggested above and you'll get it narrowed down quick.

The pitch of the prop should be stamped somewhere on the prop. It will be likely be a number with the letter P behind it. Could also be on the washer between the prop nut and the prop. If you can find a number stamped anywhere on either of those you could likely google that number and figure out what you've got.

Probably depends on the boat and how it's wired. I'm not 100% positive but I'm pretty sure on mine as long as the master power switch is off nothing really gets juice other than that switch. Yours may be completely different. If there was a constant draw on the batteries I don't imagine it's good but if it was just lights it was small. A plus is the charger being on. Somebody who knows batteries would be better suited to comment on that. If the bulbs are bad they shouldn't be terrible to replace. There again it probably depends on the boat. Myself I'm actually thinking of removing some of my instrument lights for night fishing.

I think there's a whole lot of variables that factor in. I have a 225 johnson. As a basic measure I figure I get 2 minutes of run time at WOT to a gallon of fuel. It's gonna vary alot with different hulls, HP, and different water conditions.

I think the best thing is to take it out and see how it does. If you don't need to replace it then don't. As was said though, you don't hear about people wishing they had less power. Give it some time. If it's not getting it done then replace it.

That's a good looking rig man. Clicked the pic and saw the other pics on photobucket.

Probably around 8" in central ky. It's blown around a lot though so it's hard to tell. A lot deeper in spots. The sun is shining now.

I would expect the same but the claimed dry hull weight of my 20' stratos is around 1500 pounds. I've never put her on the scales though to know what it weighs on the trailer and tournament ready. I'm surprised that the hull weights are that close myself.

I think you would definitely notice a difference. Maybe not a huge speed increase but an increase.

I don't know your specific setup. If what you're calling the aerator pump brings in fresh water rather than recirculating the water in the well then I think you would close the valve and turn on the pump(s) to fill. You're correct in that the overflow will (assuming its not blocked) prevent the livewells from overflowing. Opening the valve will only allow the water level in the well to reach a level equal to the waterline on the boat. I'd. Imagine you'd have to use the pumps to fill completely. Again I don't know the exact setup you have. Is the aerator pump on a timer or is it just on off? If there aren't any recirculating pumps. I'd think the procedure would be close the valves, turn on the pumps to fill. Once its full just turn the pumps off. When you start putting fish in the well either set the timer to refresh the water based on the conditions or if there isn't a timer manually turn it off and on while you have fish on board.

I've heard a lot of places are warmer than usual right now. I'll take it myself. I can remember December being like this in KY in the past, but it has been awhile.

I think you're probably better off waiting for a boat like Rick described. With the speedboat you're probably gonna have to do a lot of work just to get it to the point of a bass boat needing an overhaul. As suggested above, the jonboat conversion is also a great option.

You definitely have a little time. You didn't say if the 2x4s were pt, if they are it would probably be easier to replace them than isolate them from the aluminum. Good catch by Rhino. Looks like you've got her named! I like it.

This is an excellent point. I hadn't thought about that. It would be wise to isolate the pt lumber where it contacts the aluminum.

I have a Leatherman super tool. I don't use it much, but it has served me well when needed over the last 17 or so years. I have to say that it has held up well. It doesn't do anything as well as a tool designed specifically for a given job but it does a heck of a job at doing many different jobs while being wrapped up in a small package.

She's looking good! How bad did adding the deck effect stability?

Still won't go even with the cable disconnected as bkeith suggested? Make sure you're slowly turning the flywheel or prop as you're trying to shift. Helps it engage in the LU. If it still doesn't work I would think you've isolated the problem at least. Then you'll have to go from there.

Will it engage in either direction?

That's good advice. I always error on the side of caution. The way my luck runs the trolling motor would crap out as soon as I ran out of fuel for the big engine and there I'd sit. I probably need to pump my tank empty. I doubt that its ever been done and I'm sure there is bound to be some water in there. Whether from condensation, splash through the vent, or both.

I would imagine that any of the above mentioned adhesives will be fairly difficult to remove. Especially if they're applied over a properly prepped surface. I know I'm not looking forward to dealing with the bonding cement when the time comes to re carpet. That said though I would think that anything that is going to hold up well is going to be hard to remove. Be nice if they had an adhesive with a similar life expectancy as the carpet for ease of removal.