Ski213

If your starting battery tests good I would probably continue to run it if it were mine. Others can give a lot better advice on battery sizing and type so hopefully they'll chime in directly.

These are stamped 304 & DRA. I'm assuming the 304 indicates 304 ss and DRA is a manufacturer ID stamp. I can't find my thread pitch gauge. Seems like they're 1/2 13. They could be m12 though. I'll have to verify that one way or another. They used a bronze nylok I guess to prevent galling. Aluminum washer in the splash well I though thought that was odd. There was some compression of the glass at the washers in the splashwell. Trying not to make that worse. I appreciate the help. I didn't think to check specs for the bolt size.

No not at all. You are missing the rv plug for the truck. That's what I took a pic of. The plug that you took a pic of on the truck would go to the truck side of the rv plug. The other pic you took should be from the trailer and would plug into the other side of the rv plug.

Any advice on proper torque for the plate to transom bolts? Looks like they've been tractor tight in the past but I'm guessing they were over tightened at some point. Can't find a spec in the service manual.

The plug you're holding in the first post will go into the part on the truck I took a pic of. The plug on your truck looks to be part of the wiring harness that plugs into the back of the RV plug (what I took at pic of) then the trailer plug goes into the end you can see in the pic. I'm sorry I'm not great at explaining things so I'm probably adding confusion

This might give you a better idea of what parts you have and which you need. https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tow-Ready/118242.html

It's gonna look something like this. I'm thinking the plug you have will plug into the back.

I'm thinking that what's in your hand is correct for the trailer side and is the female. There is another piece that goes between the plug in the top pic and the piece in your hand. Is that a GM?

Id agree with above. You didn't say what line weight or type though. Make sure you have the right line type/strength for the situation at hand.

I'd say you're most likely right given how recently you have run it. Just a thought. I'd probably hook up a known good battery directly, as mentioned above, and see what she does. You could also take the battery to a parts store and have them test it.

I would make sure that there isn't something physically binding the engine before I did anything else

Nice rig!

Depends on the application. Shaky head I've tried some different stuff but I keep going back to a ribbon tail power worm although not floating. It's been a consistent producer for me. Not super durable though. For a surface fished t rig or wacky rig it's hands down Zoom trick worm for me. Also not super durable but I'll take productive and it's been that for me for a lot of years in a lot of different conditions. Hard to beat z man for durability and I get bit a lot when using their stuff for drop shot, Ned rig, and as jig trailers. Just my personal experience

Labor only to bolt a new lu on.

Yes.. A buddy of mine smoked #6 on a 225 merc. He took it to the shop to have that dealt with. He told the mechanic no rush since winter was coming on. The boat was covered but outside for a month or two during winter. Didn't just crack it, it cracked and then blew a chunk out of the case. Granted, it probably was a lot of water in there to cause all that.

Unfortunately I don't get enough hours in to warrant changing during the on season. I change mine in the fall. I do periodically check for water in the oil through the warmer months though. Water freezing and blowing the case open is a problem in winter for sure but water in there anytime of the year is a problem that needs addressed quickly.

Very nice! I like that there looks to be very little dead space. Storage everywhere. Well thought out layout for sure and I like the way you have utilized it. Gave me some ideas on some reorganization of my stratos. Thanks for taking the time.

I have that same problem with both my old one and the newer one. It'll hold for a minute but then loosens back up. Thought about trying to use some of that 3m weatherstrip adhesive as a thread locker on the switch threads. I've used it in the past in place of blue loctite. It was different materials and different application but it worked pretty well.

I have no idea for sure but the one in the bag looks like maybe some kind of grounding strap.

Thanks once again for the solid info Way2slow. The previous owner made some wiring changes but it seems like the only things tied to the switch are gauge power in the accessory position so hopefully I'm just looking at a mechanical problem with the ignition switch. It has a "tricky" feel to it when you turn it just to on. Wants to jump back close to off. Like a detent ball or something isn't working properly. Doesn't fall back far enough to kill the engine but far enough to break contact for the gauges maybe.

It's quite possible that he's not hiding anything but a test ride is the way to go. There are many things that only show up on the water. From his perspective every test ride is money he is spending to sell the boat. If it were me I'd do a lot of research on boat issues in general. Not just tips on buying used. It will help give you some additional ideas of what to check. Go take a look. Run it on the muffs. If he sees you're serious he's gonna feel less like he's wasting money taking you out. I would also consider paying for the test ride. Money well spent in my opinion. He might be more open to it if he's only giving up time.

97 Johnson 225. Having an intermittent power loss to gauges issue. I think it's in the ignition switch. Connections good, grounds good as well. My question is, with this type of ignition system, once the outboard starts it will run with zero voltage from the ignition correct? If I understand correctly turning the engine off is a product of grounding the ignition/power pack rather than removing 12v. Just looking for confirmation on that. It seems like the switch gets 12v to everything when turned to on on the way to start, then when it comes back to on it loses that connection occasionally. Fairly new switch but I'm thinking it has to be it. Any thoughts are appreciated. Adam

You might try some soft plastics. T rigged power worm, trick worm, or fluke are my go to lures in a pond when they're not cooperating.

That's awesome. You say she has a long way to go but it sounds like you're off to a good start for sure! Congrats on the new ride.

No you definately are not the only one.