Ski213

I've been told champion is the only way to go.

It's good looking work man. Lol yeah you gotta love how much one little piece can cost. Usually that piece is made to order and coming out of Italy with a 8 wk lead time in my experience. No pressure. Again, solid looking job.

Good looking work. It's extremely hard to find good ceramic/porcelain guy. I might be seeing it wrong, but in the second picture on the lower tile it looks like you're carrying the pattern around the corner rather than starting over on whatever bond you're running, Is that the case?

I think it's pretty cool of you to be hooking your buddy up like this. Tom's suggestion of book is a great idea. I don't think there's a thing wrong with your list of lures but I would keep it real simple. Inline spinner(s) & T rig supplies are mandatory in my opinion starting out.

Good looking job!

I don't know what year you have but if I'm not mistaken there's a plastic nut or something along those lines that allows you to remove the piece with the small hole in it. That should allow you to clear it if it's stopped up.

Finesse fishing is my weakest point I just don't do a lot of it, so take this with a grain of salt, but If I'm giving a really neutral presentation like vertical drop shot or dead sticking I generally like the lure to float. If I'm moving it much I don't concern myself too much with flotation. That being said I'd give it a chance on a light t rig presentation, on a split shot rig, or drop shot that you're casting rather than just holding in one spot. Just some thoughts.

There's no doubt you could go a cheaper route but I would go with a piano or continuous type hinge. Aluminum or stainless (preferably stainless) for material. Boat compartment hinges take a lot of abuse.

I'll be ditching the tube then. That would be my luck. It's a wonder it didn't happen to me last time.

10-4. Thanks! If I remember right I never was able to kill it with one can. I'll do the two can deal this year. Is it important to get the nozzle past the slide or is sufficient to just spray at the cutaway?

That makes sense. I wasn't sure. Previous owner was the one who mentioned using the Schrader on the primer circuit for decarb. I'm not sure that he actually ever did it though. Through the throats worked fine just was a little messy. Well a lot messy. The can would slow down, but not stop spraying when I let go of the button. I had that crap everywhere by the time I was done.

'97 Johnson venom 225. Going to be de-carbing the outboard in the next little bit. Last time I used the BRP stuff and the supplied nozzle spraying through the carb throats. Is there any good reason to use the adapter that allows you to attach the can directly to the Schrader valve?

This isn't boat length advice, plenty of good already given above. Keep a couple things in mind when planning/designing though. Regarding materials, often it makes sense to work in multiples of four feet. If you go from 24' to 25' it might be cost effective to just jump to 28'. It depends on the situation. Just something to look at. As @Fishing Rhino said its important to pay attention to inside dimension. That is dictated by wall thickness as well as space taken up by the overhead door. Also in some instances, depending on grade at the rear, your foundation wall may extend several feet above finished slab elevation. It's only going to make a 3"-6" difference typically but if you're tight on space it's worth paying attention to. Lastly, it is easy to change a floor plan but when you move walls around you also may be changing roof pitches and how the roof lines tie together. It can easily be a non issue depending on the plan but it can also make a big difference. I apologize if I'm preaching to the choir on that, I've just seen some pretty major problems come from moving a wall 3' so I wanted to throw it out there.

First sentence I get. Second sentence are you saying there is no situation with a jig where a leader is beneficial? I'm not arguing what you're saying, I'm just looking for clarification.

No VRO it is then. I thought about buying a used VRO and rebuilding it but it's probably still too much work and money than it's worth to not premix. Biggest concern for me was carbon buildup but it sounds like probably not an issue. Way2slow, we talked about the rotary vein awhile back and that's still on the table for me. Mine isn't terrible to start but it'd be nice to have FI starting ease. Is there a way to grab power for a relay that would only energize the relay when the flywheel is turning or do you just get power from the key switch?

Yeah that's kind of the fence I'm on. If the fuel pump quits with pre mix I lean out and don't run. Not ideal to lean out but no doubt better than dropping the oil side of the VRO and continuing to run till something melts. It does seem like based on what I've heard the VROs fail on the fuel side first. Don't know for sure if that's actually the case and if it is if it's by design or luck.

Short history on my outboard. Bought the boat with some fuel issues. Outboard is a 97 Johnson venom. One of the issues was the fuel pump. I had heard a lot of this and that about VRO failures leading to under-oiling etc so I decided to have the VRO replaced with non VRO. It was a largely uneducated decision in hindsight. Post VRO removal I got a lot of education courtesy of Way2slow on my outboard as well as from others. It sounds like the VRO was more of a scapegoat for problems unrelated to it than an actual problem itself. The Johnson runs great now, again in large part due to advice from here on a number of issues. I kind of feel like I made a mistake removing the VRO and I am considering going back to the VRO system. It's a totally stock motor, if it weren't I would probably continue premixing and go with the electric pump setup. I spend a lot of time wide open but I also idle a lot and I'm a little worried about carbon buildup from running 50:1 at idle. Maybe I shouldn't be. Should I just not worry about it and leave it alone or give serious consideration to going back to VRO?

That makes a dang good looking swim jig @Siebert Outdoors. Can it be ordered with a white jig head?

My opinion is that it's gonna be mostly what sells best that determines what the in stock colors are gonna be. I have read some stuff about hull color having an effect on fish but nothing that seemed real convincing to me one way or another. If you're buying new then having to order wouldn't be all bad. It would probably allow you to make a couple customizations that you wouldn't be able to do with an in stock boat. Like A-jay did with his Lund. If you're looking used, look for Tritons. Without question around here most of the white boats I see are Tritons with Nitro a close second.

I have heard the same thing in the past. That's how I periodically check throughout the season but before winter I want to be dang sure there isn't any water in there. It does make sense that the water would settle to the bottom and come out first but as J Francho said the oil is a lot cheaper than the lower unit.

Yep. I think I know the one you're talking about. My buddy loved them. I have 2 left. Had four but lost two trying make a fiberglass resin mold of them.

There are two reasons to change lu oil in the fall. One is that it has been run all year and has been degraded to one extent or another based on how much you've run the boat. The other is to ensure that there is no water in the lu oil due to leaks. That water can freeze and do some serious damage if you have a harsh winter. I wouldn't hesitate to take her out again. Just make sure you're water free in the lu and you replace burned fuel with stabilized fuel or drain tank and carbs completely before you put her up for the winter.

Saw a post on here that got me thinking about some of the older baits that are no longer available that were staples for me 15 yrs ago. One of them was the Berkley Power Lizard. The one that was available in the late 90s. The head was standard lizard, the tail was I think a curly, the body was triangular shaped with diamond shapes kind of embossed in it. Berkley came out with that realistix line after it and they and the zoom lizard were a close second but second in productivity nevertheless. Anybody on here aware of anything close that's in production? Or have some they would like to part with? Or even familiar with the one I'm talking about? i always feel like manufacturers stop making the truly great products. I'm not a ford guy but Berkley discontinuing that lizard, tournament strength trilene and Ford discontinuing the 351 Cleveland just doesn't make sense to me.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with that. Hope I didn't come off like there was. I wish I had a little bit more of the organizational tendencies myself. I'm a semi controlled chaos kind of guy. There are many knowledgable folks on here. It never ceases to amaze me the knowledge base here on older lures. Your post actually got me thinking about asking a question here myself about a lure I can no longer source. Beat of luck in your search.

I'm assuming you're just trying for basic worm type and color. There are a ton of variations, trying to get more specific than that could be very time consuming and largely unnecessary. Measure them, there's your length. If you don't know the basic types like ribbon tail, etc then just get on one of the tackle sales sites and start browsing soft plastics. There are a blue million different color names by different manufacturers but I don't think you need to get super accurate with that either. Just the basic color family. If you're hammering fish on a very specific soft plastic then I would spend the time to figure out exactly the manufacturer and color. Its very possible that you're gonna have some older baits that are discontinued colors and styles.