Ski213

You said no matter what you did. What exactly was that? I’m not suggesting that you didn’t do enough just wondering what you tried. A lot of folks have good results by using pvc pipe to create an elevated support system that makes a kind of ridge down the middle of the boat to facilitate runoff of the water. I’ve never dealt with it myself, but I’d think that the boat being on the water would make it tough to pull adequate tension down on the perimeter of the cover to prevent low spots from forming in the cover that could collect water. You might contact someone who makes truly custom covers for advice. They can be expensive but even if you don’t purchase a cover from them they might have some good advice.

Thanks guys! Great ideas. I’m gonna set him up with a little tackle box and a new rod and reel as he apparently he broke the one he had last year. Ive never actually met the kid so it makes it tough to gauge what he’s after. I don’t think his guardian is a fisherman so I don’t think he knows either. Just knows little guy loves to fish.

That’s a great idea with the hookless crankbaits. I really appreciate it.

Just as the title says. Need advice. I don’t have any kids of my own but wanting to help with Christmas for a 6 yr old who loves fishing. Maybe a little spinning setup, maybe closed face reel? Hooks and bobbers? Im kind of lost when it comes to that age group. Any suggestions are much appreciated.

Glad to see there are some still out there in use. Yeah parts can be the issue for sure. I have a couple spares that came from a guy who never fished frequently so they’re basically new. Hopefully when my others give up I’ll put those either in regular use or relegate them to “guest” reels.

Just curious on this. Technology has come a long way I guess, but there’s something about them that I still like. They have been very durable for me. Typically I still have two rigged every time go out on the big boat. Just wondered if anybody else still fished them at times. Maybe it’s sentimental value to me. The “greenie” was my first expensive bait caster back in the day. $119 or maybe $129. Big money for a teenager back in the 90s.

If I understand his system correctly, when he pushes the “choke” he is adding fuel to the mix. If he were starved for fuel or had excessive air I would expect that to improve the situation. That said I have experienced some pretty crazy stuff when air is getting in where it shouldn’t. Not specifically on an outboard but with dirt bikes. They are different but in large part play by the same rules.

Yes. Mine somewhat distorts the view if I’m looking through it. Typically I’m looking over it though. Not sure if you are able to do that with yours or not. I can still navigate looking through it when I want to tuck down behind it if it’s raining or there are a lot of bugs over the water smacking me in the face. For those reasons I would not remove mine, but yours may be more in your field of vision. If it’s easy to remove and later replace I’d just try without it and see how you like it and if there are any issues. If it’s something that’s difficult to remove and then replace later I would give it some time before you pull the trigger on removing.

I’d agree with collisions with other boats as being the biggest risk. Second to that being collisions with rocks, stumps, etc. Operating a boat beyond your skill level is also dangerous. That could be anything from running on the edge (or past it) with a high performance boat to taking your boat out in conditions that are too much for the particular boat or operator such as rough water or thunderstorms where lightning is an issue. Chinewalk getting out of hand for a performance example. Just because the boat doesn’t sink or capsize doesn’t mean an incident won’t toss you into the water at 60+ mph.

I have no experience with that particular boat. As said above, how it’s been taken care of and ensuring it’s structurally sound are key. My glitter barge is a ‘98 and I’d not hesitate to own another that old or older. One thing I would think about outside of the soundness of the hull and the outboard is simply that many parts like plumbing, pumps, wiring connections, switches, etc. are also likely older. They may or may not need attention. That’s just something to keep in mind. Not a deal breaker to me by any means.

Kudos for taking a swing at it. Looking good in the pics.

Thanks for bringing that up. That’s one of those things that I know I have never checked but should have. I’ll put it on the list now though. Losing throttle control could range anywhere from inconvenient to catastrophic depending on the situation. Do you think they just backed out or did you pull them out with the impact of the wake?

I have used etrailer on the web in the past. You can maybe browse around on there and figure out what axle brand and rating you have on your trailer. Once you get that figured out finding parts (if available) should be pretty easy. You may be able to search the numbers you have and get straight to it.

http://download.brunswick-marine.com/filereader/file/pdf/4/enen/outboard/2014/4-stroke/8m0090713r.pdf Found this link. Make sure it's the correct manual for your engine though. Break-in procedure is in there.

For baitcasters I sometimes use the pencil method but I have had the Berkeley line spooling station for many years and typically use it. For spinning I just throw the spool on the floor, put the spinning reel on the rod, and spool it up holding tension on the line with my fingers.

This is just my opinion, and I'm sure there are good reasons to do it the other way, but I'd put the 9 at the console. I'm going to use si primarily when I'm at the console so that's where I want the larger screen. I do use si some from the bow but not much. If I used it a lot from the front that's where I'd want the 9. It probably depends a lot on how exactly you use your electronics.

I'm not familiar with the retractable cables but do they operate like a seat belt? Can you pull whatever you need slowly but if you jerk them they lock up? If they don't lock up is there enough slack in them to allow the tongue to dig in to the blacktop if the trailer disconnects from the ball?

Search for prop to pad height for your particular setup. Thats going to be a good starting point. There are folks on here that are setup gurus. I'm not one of them but I'd start around 3" below pad for general use. That could mean mid to low on the plate just depending on exactly where the plate is mounted on the transom.

It's unfortunate about the warranty being withdrawn. My personal experience with Cabela's branded stuff has been good, and thus far I have not needed the warranty, but it's good to know it's not being honored. It wasn't the selling point for me on gear, but it was a plus for sure. At my local Cabela'a it looks like the brand is being removed and replaced by the BPS stuff pretty quickly.

I think generally as long as the boat is sitting such that the transom is lower than the bow the plumbing will drain to a point where whatever water might remain in the lines it won't be enough to split a line. There have been times where I've taken a shop vac and either blown out the lines or sucked them out at the thru hull fittings but I've never had an issue when I didn't. I have smoked a water pressure gauge (older style) by not clearing out the line and gauge. Maybe you already have this covered but one thing that you didn't ask about and hasn't been mentioned is to make sure that the lower unit oil isn't water contaminated. I'd imagine it would take a fair amount of water but a buddy of mine didn't check his before winter and came out to find a chunk of his lower unit housing laying in the driveway one day after the contaminated lu oil froze and blew the side off.

The time & money spent as well as the physical injury is an easier pill to swallow than forever wondering what you might have missed out on just leaving it alone. It's an illness. I have it.

Any of you ever work on/rebuild a door on enclosed cargo trailer? It's a barn type door rather than the drop down ramp. I haven't disassembled it yet but I think it's a 1x skeleton frame with 1/4" lauan on the inside and then sheetmetal on the outside. The lower portion is rotten and is the reason for rebuilding. I'm thinking of just laminating 3/4" plywood and 1/4" lauan rather than rebuilding the 1x frame I believe is in there. The only disadvantage I see with plywood would be additional weight. Any thoughts and advice are appreciated.

You definitely don't screw around. That is a nice one for sure. I've not worked with refractory cement. Were you able to create a form for one side then trowel the cement in or did you create a mold and then pour it? It sounds like you went all out and it was a well thought out build. It also sounds like it's working as planned given the 1000 degree temp difference between inside and out. Very nice work.

They turned out great. I like the oven. Looks like it's a pretty good sized one. I've been thinking about doing one for a couple years but haven't yet pulled the trigger. How bad was it to build?

Took longer than you expected but probably saved yourself a chunk of money and have the satisfaction of being able to handle it yourself. How did they turn out?