Ski213

Practice, practice, practice. It varies for everyone, but it shouldn't take too long if you spend some time with it The first times I used a foot control it was a mess. My biggest problem was overcorrecting and using too much power at the wrong times. It got natural pretty quick though. Start off slow and don't go overboard on the situations you put yourself in right off the bat.

She needs some lake time. Assuming all is good (fuel, etc) take it to the water and let her rip. See how it does. Just don't give into the temptation to "blow it out" on the muffs. That can end poorly.

I wouldn't worry too much till you actually run it as fishnkamp and iabass8 said. Just keep an eye on temp and such. Youre description was a smoke cloud. That sounds like oil smoke rather than steam to me. I would think the steam would dissipate fairly fast. I have a 97 venom and it's like a smoke fog in the field when I start it on the muffs if there isn't much wind, especially if it has been sitting or has been only idled prior.

Luhr Jensen bang tail. White.

I generally try to support the local businesses but sometimes you have to look out for your bottom line. You can buy some things from a big box store and still continue to do business with your local folks as well. Nothing wrong with that in my opinion.

Plus 4 then on Berkley. This thing has got to be 15-20 yrs old & still in use for bait casters.

It's definitely a Ford vs Chevy kind of question. I'm assuming you're tm shopping. I've only had mk. No issues with them. I just happened to start with mk and have stayed with them. I'd imagine if I had started with motor guide I would prob still be running them. Based on what I've seen and heard I don't think one is really better than the other. You'd prob be happy with whichever one fits your specific needs the best.

Good advice above. I can't really add much to it, but I've been fishing a 3ish acre pond out on the farm the last couple afternoons with some success. Similar deal with a mucked up bottom. I'm not a big drop shot guy but that's what I've had the most luck on. I'm fishing it more horizontal than vertical. 2' or so from the hook to the sinker. The sinker gets fouled but the bait stays up and visible. I cast, pull the slack out, shake, wait, shake, wait, drag a little, repeat. SLOWLY. Using a fluke jr. I'm not saying it's the way but it's been working pretty well for me. Still a slow bite. The other thing that has been productive is a 2 tap red eye shad in chigger craw. Real rapid stop and go retrieve. Been able to pick up several good reaction bites that way. Just some thoughts.

I like the side console mount. Definitely back it up as advised above. Also keep in mind that you have something hanging outside the rub rail when you're navigating tight standing timber from the bow. It's easy to forget that there's something hanging out there that a tree could grab. Not that I have any personal experience with that or anything.

I'll use about anything that I would put on a T rig. 6"+ ribbon tail worms have been the most effective for me the last cpl years. I've never tried a craw for whatever reason but that's on the shortlist for this spring.

I can't think of any lure/technique I have refused to try. There are some I've resisted though. The Ned rig, the A-rig, really any rig that doesn't start with Carolina or Texas. I've warmed up to the Ned though. It's the technique I hate to love. The only pattern I refuse to throw is bass. I have thrown it. For years I threw it growing up. It's the only pattern that I know for a fact that I've never been bit on. I know that it works for others but it has not one time worked for me, not even a swipe.

What looks best to me is a Keitech paddle tail. I really like the action on them. What seems to look best to the fish is a simple curly tailed grub though. Kalins for that. Just my experience.

Guys, there can be no better endorsement for a bait's potential than a picture of one that is in this condition.

@slonezp that is slick. I really like the bow nav light colors worked into the rub rail. I don't think I've ever seen that on the water around here. No doubt what your boat's position is with them. Not trying to get off topic but does that allow you to do away with the typical bow light?

I would think it's likely one of the above mentioned issues, and I would start there, but if everything checks out up top be sure to check out the lower unit.

I think that's all you can really do short of disassembly and cleaning.

It's going to depend a lot on what relatively reasonable means to you and what exactly you need it to do. As far as Lowrance goes, I would take a look at the Elite 7ti. It does a fair amount for an $800 unit. Might be less than that now. I don't know. I have one I bought about 6 months ago. Assuming nothing has changed, it comes with a total scan transducer. I know that there are ways to mount that on a trolling motor but I think they involve modifying the skeg on the tm. Just something to be mindful of. The unit does side scan, down scan, and will do CHIRP sonar (if structure scan is off). It's GPS as well. I feel like it's a solid graph. One other thing. If you intend to buy a map card, I would highly recommend going navionics. I have navionics on one unit and lake insight on the elite 7. It doesn't give me quite as much insight as I'd like.

I really appreciate all the solid advice fellas! I ended up going with angler jacket after reading all your posts and thinking about it some more. Looking forward to trying it out. Adam

Good point about the insulated being too hot most of the year. Originally my thinking was to go insulated for late winter/early spring and late fall early winter. Now I'm thinking I could go non insulated and simply layer underneath when necessary.

Thanks for the input guys. I haven't pulled the trigger yet but I'm getting closer. I keep going back and forth between insulated and not now. I figure if I go on and buy some decent rain gear for fishing it won't rain all season. If I don't, it will be a monsoon every tournament. Thanks again!

I'm looking to buy some new rain gear. I have been using frog toggs, the super cheap ones. They mostly get the job done and for the money I can't complain. Just wanting to upgrade to something a little nicer. Jacket wise I'm looking at the cabelas extreme parka. It's primary use will be early and late season. Looking for thoughts/opinions on it. Most reviews seem favorable but wanted thoughts from here. What do you like, what do you hate? Thanks in advance!

I don't about your specific boat but on my boat there's not a ton of space between the piece that the seat back attaches to and the tank. There is some space though. My suggestion would be to mark the hole locations, remove the section where the seats attach, then drill it. Put it back in place and put a piece of wire or something through the drilled hole to see how much space you have. I think you'll probably have enough room.

Just based on what you're describing I'd go with a newer used aluminum boat that's outfitted with what you'll actually use if you're wanting something that's ready to fish. If you're okay with doing some work yourself then a new, blank aluminum hull and trailer might be something to look at. You can add the outboard and accessories yourself. You can build decks, etc as you need. I've seen this work for several friends over the years. Just make sure you do your homework when picking the hull. Its just my opnion but although there'd be nothing wrong with buying an older, solid glass boat, if I were looking to do what you're taking about I'd be looking at aluminum only. Whether new or used.

Good luck on the continued search. A lot of good advice above. If you're patient the right one will come along. Might be tomorrow, might be 6 months from now. You're taking the right approach in my opinion. There are many things that can go wrong with a boat. If you're not already, spend time looking at the questions/problems/solutions that ppl who already own one are having. Won't plane, low rpms, live well won't fill, water in the bilge, etc. Doing that and seeing what other people's problems were and the fix will better allow you to assess a used boat. You'll learn what is a $2000 project vs what is 20 bucks and a Saturday afternoon in the driveway.

One thing I carry that I haven't seen mentioned is a handheld gps. I also always have a paper chart/map for the lake I'm fishing as well as a magnetic compass.