Ski213

I would definately address it pretty soon. The remaining welds are being put under some additional stress with the other two gone. You've had two of four fail and it's ok, but if one more fails it might be a much bigger functionality issue.

Can't speak for Washington specifically but most likely if it has a motor of any kind it will need to be registered. Easiest thing to do would be to call your county clerk for a definitive answer. As far as the boaters license I would call the authority having jurisdiction. Here we don't have a boaters license but if we did it would likely be fish and wildlife.

Been there done that. When I bought my current and first big boat I'm wanting to say it was the fifth trip before I hooked a fish. In hindsight I think it was because I was more concerned with boating than fishing. Loved every minute of getting blanked though, wouldn't change a thing.

Congrats! Very nice. Sounds like there was a great deal of thought put into the setup. Looking forward to hearing about the maiden voyage.

Sounds like chine walk. Setup and weight distribution can make a difference. You can trim down a little to stop it or you can learn to balance the boat on the pad with steering input. Just don't try to drive straight through it. It can get out of control.

I don't necessarily think you need to change out the two bank. To each his own but I would probably just add a single bank charger for the starting battery assuming there's not some kind of space issue. When it's time to replace those chargers I would go to a 3 bank unit but not before.

He is correct. The alternator will charge the starting battery. Some people like to have a third bank just to keep the starting battery topped off though. If you don't run the outboard much but run electronics, livewells, etc a lot the charging battery can get drained. I use a 2 bank and occasionally pull one bank off the trolling batteries and charge the starting battery if I've been doing a lot of fishing with not much running.

I would assume level but I don't know that it makes a whole lot of difference. What year outboard? Way2slow is an expert on that particular motor and could give you some possible reasons it's hard starting. Couple thoughts would be to not go crazy with the bulb. Just till firm. I'm not sure if it's possible but I wonder if you're forcing too much fuel in when you're pumping that hard. Also on the choke/primer I think it shoots fuel for a specific period of time. To get more fuel in you have to release it and press again rather than just hold it longer.

I'm not saying the prop isn't your issue but assuming it's the correct prop for the setup it is my understanding that it ok for it to be smaller than the OD of the lu housing. There is a plastic ring that I've heard called a weed ring or ventilation ring between the prop and housing. Yours looks to be present. My 225 is the same setup different prop and I have no issues. My prop does have a very defined flare at the rear. I can't tell if yours does or not. Looks like yours may have a taper to it. North brings up a good point though and I would definitely make sure that the prop is correct for your application.

It sounds like the ratio is right. So with the 3 blade you said it runs fine. Meaning once on plane it's all good but holeshot is still no good?

Every setup is different. Every ramp is different as well. As was stated above, it kind of sounds like you may have the trailer backed in too far or possibly it's a steep ramp. Either of those will not allow the bunks to kind of cradle and guide the boat as it comes in. Something that helps me center the boat is remembering that I'm sitting to the right of center. If I "point" the bow at the winch stand from where I'm sitting I'll come in crooked every time. Try to come in while keeping in mind where you need to be sitting when the boat is properly centered on the trailer.

Congrats on the new ride! Good looking rig.

I don't have anything to add. All above advice is good. I'd just reiterate. 1. Have a plan 2. Practice it (in a low traffic area initially if possible) 3. Remain calm no matter what Things do happen, take it in stride when they do. You'll be a ramp pro in no time. Congrats on the new ride.

Make sure there is nothing preventing/interfering with what I'm gonna call the top half of the assembly from going all the way down other than what you're calling the lever. Make sure there is nothing keeping the lever from traveling as far as it needs to as well. Given that it's new, if it's not an installation issue or obvious fix, I would exchange it.

Thanks guys! I guess l may get to try both ways. I'm only doing the top cap so one half of it was wet sanded and 40% polished back out before I read the second post. That side is looking good as new so far. I'm open to trying the Chemical Guys stuff though. I'd like to only be as aggressive with it as I need to be so maybe the second half gets done that way. Im way out of my element here so I really appreciate yalls help. Adam

I have an older glass boat. '98. It has been well taken care for the most part. Garage kept, waxed, etc. The top cap is starting to develop what I'm gonna call a haze in places. It's a red and black cap. The haze is only visible in high sun. Outside of middle of the day you can't see it at all. I'm assuming this is oxidation. There's no rough feel to it and it's not that chalky condition that you'll see on some glass boats but I'm figuring it's the start of that. It's not the entire cap, it's just portions. It's worst where the sun really hammers it. Any thoughts or advice on how to approach dealing with it are greatly appreciated.

Water will work its way down in the joint between the lid and the deck. If there is not some sort of lip or flange that redirects the water some of it will end up in the compartment. On my stratos it's basically a raised fiberglass ring around each compartment that creates a channel that directs water to weep holes that allow the water to go to the bilge. The lid closes around that flange. You could create that flange perhaps with some automotive weather stripping. I suck at explaining stuff but hopefully that makes sense.

Find a scale. Could be one of the above suggested places or possibly a truck stop or feed store perhaps. Weigh the truck without the trailer then with. Subtract the first weight from the second. That's your boat weight including the trailer. As tbone said if you're checking for towing weight purposes the combined number of trailer, boat, truck and gear in both is the number that matters.

Keep switching lures. I had similar conditions today at the house. 3 acre farm pond. Not a straight up honey hole but not a bad fishery. Bluebird skies. I went an hour or two with two bites and one little one landed. Water was stained enough I couldn't see fish but there was zero visible activity on top. I threw a lot of stuff. The 2 bumps I got were on a chatterbait. Switched to a spinnerbait and I couldn't keep them from biting.

Yep. Keep fishing. Try to ignore the fact that you're not having luck. Maybe focus on casting accuracy. I've broken several losing streaks by not worrying about catching but basically conducting casting practice or pitching practice or trying to fish a technique that I never use. Helps keep me from getting frustrated.

Don't replace the fuel pump unless it isn't pumping. Start with getting the carbs, lines, fuel filter in good shape. Then check the pump pressure. Systematic approach will keep you from spending money you don't need to. Also don't get carried away with starting fluid. Engine is running without proper lubtication on that. Definately sounds like you've narrowed it down to fuel delivery though. It is a cool project. Good luck on it. I'm sorry to hear about your brother in law.

I always take on some water. I don't sweat it much anymore. Used to be a lot more courtesy of a live well drain hose crack and a failed rub rail seal. If you're soaking the carpet in lower areas I would think that's a fair amount of water but I'm not familiar with the construction of your boat. You might try flooding the hull at the house and check for water leaking out at thru hull fittings and such.

I think you're seeing a mechanical failure be it hub or whatever. i would think that hub or lu slippage would show at both hole shot and when you're reaching rpms where you're throwing down some hp while trying to lift on to the pad. Out of the hole the prop is under pressure to get the lead sled moving. As you start reaching peak hp and lift the bow it's under a great deal of pressure again. Tom suggested trying another prop. If you have one available that would be a good way to go. Even if it's not the right pitch for your setup.

I guess another thing would be to take real close look at the prop itself. I don't know that a blade out of whack would create your problem or not but I've got it on good authority that it not being just right can make a big difference.

Alright. One thing might be to put some kind of match mark on the prop and hub. Run it and after it does its thing check the marks to see if they're still aligned. If they're not then you know you're getting some slippage in the hub. If they stay aligned then you're looking at something else. That's where I'd start if it were me.