WIGuide

No doubt, and it gives him a great idea. I was just letting OP know that what was inside yours may differ than what was originally inside the baits he had.

I'm sure it's possible, but it might take a considerable amount of work. You need to get it out of the bulldog bracket, which I believe encompasses taking the upper head off. the power wires should come off pretty easily, just be sure to mark them, but if I'm not mistaken you will need to unhook the steering cable for that. I know it can be done, but I don't remember off hand how those disconnect. It could be easy, or it could be a pain in the butt. My best advice is take the head apart and see what it looks like as it could be fairly easy. Also check the shaft diameter and compare it to the old one on the tracker. You don't want to go through the work of getting it out of the old bracket only to find it won't fit in the other one.

Depending on the age they would have different components. The ones produced in the early 80's I believe had either a different size/number or material BB in them since they had a different sound than the newer ones. Also, the one jigfishin shows in his post is not a true Cordell Super Spot either. It's one of the Cordell value series that is made to be sold in bargain bins.

I'd check your knot and how you tie it before you think you need to start switching lines. Make sure you are wetting your line before you tighten it and that you're not cinching it down to quickly. If you tie a knot and the tag end or main line have a curly cue type look to them you burnt the line and severely weakened the knot.

Each picture should have it's own file location and it should not depend on the numerical order. I'm not 100% certain on this, but being that their site is an image hosting site, it would seem detrimental to their site to make it where if one photo is deleted then they all other file paths are affected.

You're going to have to move some weight around when you go out solo to prevent it.

Probably not necessary to do all that. If you're worried about it I'd say to throw it up on some blocks but the rims and tires can stay on.

I'm getting the feeling that your "filthy fluoro" has nothing to do with why you're getting skunked. Especially since you say you're fishing dirty or stained water which limits the fish's visibility anyway. If anything your dirty line would be more of a camo. I use fluoro on most of my setups and I've never had an issue with it. I only cut off line if needed. If you want to save money then use backing.

I've fished for a $30,000 bass boat a few times now and all the way down to bragging rights against my dad. Typically though in the club tournaments I fish it's somewhere between $400 to $700 for first.

There are a lot of action cameras out there now, but the GoPro seems to dominate. I'd give them a shot especially since you can probably pick up a used one soon with the release of the new GoPro Hero 4 coming out very soon.

I know a a lot of these have already been mentioned but here's a list of advantages as to why I use tungsten weights : Roughly 1/2 the size of lead which leads to a more natural presentation Smaller size equates to less hang ups around wood and grass Much more sensitive than lead steel or brass relays bottom composition much better Harder than lead which means it won't deform as easily Weights won't wear on line like lead will once deformed Won't rust or tarnish or corrode like lead, steel, or brass Weight will come through a basses mouth better as it's teeth can't grip it like they can with lead which leads to better hook up ratio Allows you to downsize presentations without loosing feel or casting distance Tungsten allows the creation of unconventional weights i.e. Eco Pro Tungsten's Pro Wacky Weight Makes punching a lot easier Tungsten is more eco friendly than lead.

Mine would have to be a St. Croix Legend Xtreme paired up with a Abu Garcia MGXtreme.

Go to their website. Most of their products have free ship to store so you can just go in and pick it up.

I think that would turn into an engineering nightmare.

Haven't had any real bad experiences at either place. I can see where it could happen though. After all, they are just people and it's impossible for them to know everything about everything.

This

Easiest would probably be to tie it to something and just walk it off. Less chances of something going wrong too.

The 7' MH/F would be a great rod for those applications

Hand sanitizer does a pretty good job at removing oil and gunk.

X2 Anything adding resistance to the system is going to add heat, so make sure all terminals are good and clean. Then check connections to make sure they're tight and also see if the wire heats up as well.

My friend was making them using some sort of aluminum cable crimp and stainless wire. I don't have any pictures here at work, but they looked ok.

I would have to suggest a St. Croix Legend Tournament or Xtreme with a medium power and fast action for those techniques/weights. They make a few in a couple different lengths, but make that decision based on what you're most comfortable with. I would think would do just fine with a baitcaster for those techniques too.

Definitely a good buy. The 300 series Ranger hulls are great. I just sold my 86 320V (15'10") in very good shape for $4,000 so for $3500 if it's in the shape you say is a good buy.

It would depend on if that's the only water you fish. If you fish other lakes without horsepower restrictions, you're going to want to just use your trolling motor and fish your way to where you want and back. I don't see a need for putting an extra one on the back to be used as a motor since the one on the front does the same thing.

I've got the 6'10" ML/XF St. Croix LTB and absolutely love it. I also use 6 lb fluorocarbon and haven't had an issue with it. It sounds like you're very picky about your rods, so if you've found one that you love you might as well buy it regardless of the cost.