TetraFish'n

Thanks Slone.

I'm currently running two 999ci hd si's on my boat. One is located at the console, the other on the bow. They are ethernet linked with the 5 port hub. If I wanted to temporarily move the bow unit to a location at the stern, say for the purpose of trolling, can I simply run an ethernet cable to the rear mounting location and receive the data from the transducer?

I have limited space in my boat, with a rod locker that really only has space for 3 rods. I'm trying to decide on three types of rods that will perform best with the techniques that I use most often, as I would like to be able to lock them up when I'm not on the water. I realize that some of you might ask why I wouldn't just swap the rods out depending on the day, but that's not always possible as I am often on trips away from the house. So work with me here. Most often I will be drop shooting, vertical jigging a spoon, using a jig/tube, throwing a fluke, and casting a crank bait or topwater bait. Drop shotting is a primary tactic, so I think I should dedicate one slot to my favorite drop shot rod as I don't see it's extra fast action being applicable for many other presentations. I think my 7 foot casting rod would cover the crank bait and topwater. And I thought to cover the vertical jigging, jig/tube, and fluke presentations that I might be able to get away with using a jerk bait rod. I would appreciate some opinions please, thanks.

I used to separate them into different categories by placing them in 1 gallon Ziploc's. This summer I fished with a gentleman who removes them from the original packaging and keeps them in 3700 boxes. This proved to be a more efficient way of storing and accessing them, than what I have been doing. I also inquired about them drying out. He informed me that this has been his storage method for the past eight or 10 years, and has yet to have any negative results. However, you don't want to mix any of the ElaZtech baits with standard plastics as they will melt them. Also, the Gulp Alive products will dry out if they are removed from the solution.

Found a transducer and cable for $200.00. Thank you Wayne.

Another question, now that I'm faced with dropping 540 bucks on a second transducer(my frugal side is coming out . If I did choose to use just one transducer, would it be possible to only achieve imaging on one side? Or would it show the opposite side to some degree? The reason that I am considering this, is that I live in the Pacific Northwest and fish reservoirs. The side of the boat that is opposite the bank is rarely fishable water, being that the bank drops off so quickly. I would only be limited to this view at the console, as I am mounting a side imaging transducer on the trolling motor as well.

Thanks for the reply. Just to confirm, the XHS 9 HDSI 180 T is the extra side imaging transducer that I should purchase, correct?

I am currently having a jet boat built and will be running a 999ci hd si on it. With the shape of the transom, and jet pump protruding out the back, there is not a good location to mount a single transducer. A gentleman on a jet boating forum told me that I will need to purchase a second transducer and a AS SILR Y cable to get the full side imaging display. Is this all the equipment that I will need? Also, I was previously considering running a Y cable with a 2D transducer to get a reading on plane. Since both the transducers will now be side imaging, will it be possible to position them in a way that I can get a reading on plane? Thanks, Josh

That's what I was thinking, thanks for confirming. My previous boat had a 24 V trolling motor and the batteries were hooked up to two different banks. A person that works for the company that's building my boat was trying to say differently.

If it were set up that way, one bank charging three in a series, would it just result in a very slow charge? Or would other problems arise?

Another question. I have been considering a four bank charger because that is the number of batteries will be on my boat. Since the three batteries dedicated to the trolling motor will be in series, can they be charged off of one bank?

Are you ever concerned about draining the cranking battery with the draw from your fish finders? I may have asked you a similar question before. My concern is that I will be running a 6L V8 in my jet boat and do not want to deplete the cranking battery so it's not able to fire up the motor. I'm also trying to keep weight to a minimum and would like to avoid having an extra battery just for cranking.

Thanks for the suggestions. Slonezp- do you have three dedicated to the trolling motor and one for cranking and electronics?

I'm looking at different brands of onboard chargers to install on a new boat, specifically a 4 bank charger. I want a quality piece of equipment. I'm not a tournament fisherman, I get once or twice a week. My question is pertaining to the Minn Kota precision onboard charger. For those with experience, is the Minn Kota going to perform well enough to justify the extra money spent. If not, what are your preferred brands and why? Thanks

Those look really nice. I will be getting a new boat in a little over a month and plan on doing this. What brand light did you use? Did you use adhesive to attach them?

As far as the balance is concerned, if the setup is tip heavy you can simply add a little weight to the butt of the rod to balance things out. I regularly do this with all of my setups. I wrap hollow-core lead around the butt of the rod. With a little experimentation you will be able to achieve the desired balance. This allows for a much more efficient combination. The arms will experience less fatigue and depending on the weight of the lure, you may increase your casting distance by a small margin. I will also wrap electrical tape on top of the lead to prevent it from getting on my hands.

I have a 20 foot pontoon boat that can be very frustrating to handle in the wind. With its high sides it acts like a giant sail. After reading an article last summer, I purchased a set of Cabela's drift socks. They made a huge difference for me. If the wind picks up we simply throw them out on two corners of the boat. In a really high wind I will put them off the two corners of the bow to turn the boat directly into the wind. This helps to cut down on wind resistance. Being a new technique, they definitely take some getting used to. It doesn't take much practice though and they make a world of difference. They don't really take up much space and fit into a small duffel bag and they are extremely light. As far as them getting hung on cover, most of them have flotation that keeps the drift sock riding high in the water. That would have to be a consideration for areas with lots of wood though. The ones I have drag approximately 10 feet off the boat. For a small boat I think you may be able to get away with using just one. I found them to be a very useful tool. Times when I used to get blown off the lake are now spent fishing. Josh

Good idea on the 4 bank charger. I appreciate the advice.

Thanks for the responses. I always have a battery dedicated to cranking. Should've been more specific with my info. Just didn't know if the electronics would be too much for the cranking battery to handle.

Trying to figure out how many batteries I should have onboard for a full day fishing trip. I have a 21 foot boat and will be using a 36 volt trolling motor. There will be two graphs on the boat. Do people normally run everything off of the three trolling motor batteries? Or is there typically a battery designated for the electronics? Thanks, Josh

Hey, I really appreciate the help you have given me. You changed my mind and now I'm going to run the sign imaging transducer off the trolling motor, for the bow unit. Now I will just be sharing the mapping and waypoints between the two units. I compiled a list of what I need to order, If you wouldn't mind taking a quick look to make sure it's complete... Terrova 112/US2/i-Pilot Link 999ci HD SI KVD Combo (KVD models are the same price as standard?) 1199ci HD SI KVD Combo Ethernet hub- AS ETH 5PXG 2 Ethernet Adapter Cables- AS EC QDE 2 Ethernet Cables- AS EC 15E (I'll take measurements to make sure 15 feet will work) 1 Transducer Shield and Saver trolling motor mount 1 tube of silicone and zip ties Thanks, Josh

Thanks for the quick response. Do you have trouble with the HDSI transducer cable getting in the way while you're running your trolling motor? I tried doing that about 4 years ago and found I had to be extremely careful and make sure it didn't get wrapped up. I found this on Basspro, http://www.basspro.com/Humminbird-InterLink-Network-Connection-System-Module/product/98217/ it doesn't have a very good description, but appears to come with 4 cables. Would I need any more than this?

I'm trying to narrow down the electronics I'm going to install on a new boat. I called Humminbird but I don't have the time to continue wait on hold. So I would appreciate your help please. So far I'm looking to install a Terrova 112/US2/i-Pilot Link on the bow with a 999ci HD SI Combo and run a 1199ci HD SI Combo at the console. I plan to mount the side imaging transducer on the stern. I would like to be able to view the traditional 2D sonar off of the trolling motor, as well as side imaging from the transducer located at the stern, on the 999 unit up front. My question for you guys is, what equipment do I need to accomplish this? Let me know if I need to provide any more information. Thanks, Josh

I'm getting a new boat in the near future and I'm looking to upgrade my trolling motor and fish finders. I currently have a Terrova with i-Pilot and am considering upgrading to the Link system. I'm selling my current boat as a complete package, so I will be purchasing all new equipment. The Link system is very appealing because I use a wheelchair and foresee the "follow the contour" feature as making it even easier to control the motor. My current setup with i-Pilot is nice, but I am constantly having to stop casting so that I can make adjustments with the remote. I have found many reviews on the motors with Link, but not specifically pertaining to the "follow the contour" feature. For those with personal experience, does it work as good as all the literature and videos say that it does? Thanks, Josh

I live in the Pacific Northwest and I'm looking to build an aluminum jet boat to fish out of. I have noticed that it is very common for fishing boats to have polished aluminum sides up here, creating a glare from the sun. Granted, most of these boats are being used for trolling and not casting applications. It looks cool, but I see this as being counterproductive to my fishing efforts. My way of thinking, if there is a chance it's going to limit my success then I'm not going to do it. Just curious what some of your opinions are on the subject. Thanks, Josh Preferences § 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 - = Backspace Tab q w e r t y u i o p [ ] Return capslock a s d f g h j k l ; ' \ shift ` z x c v b n m , . / shift English Deutsch Español Français Italiano Português Русский alt alt Preferences