Xyndifor

I like stren personally. It's cheap and probably just as good as the trilene as they are in the same league. I've never had memory issues with it like with other cheaper lines. My favorite is the clear/blue fluorescent so I can see my line especially when I'm senko fishing.

I'm right handed and can't do right hand retrieve on baitcasting reels. It just feels funny. It's weird because I can't do anything else lefty. I wish they'd make more lefty baitcasting reels. Seems often times I can't get a reel I want in the gear ratio I want.

This is what I have been using. It's tin not steel my mistake. I bought them at Dick's Sporting Goods. http://www.eagleclaw.com/blog/icast-2013-lead-alternative-bass-and-football-jigs They're cheap so if you lose one you don't feel so bad. When I tried tungsten got really frustrated because often times I'd lose my lure on my first or second cast because I really started targeting heavier cover last year.

Yes. It is right now. I think they did the same thing last year. It'll be online when the spring classic ends. I've always bought my pro qualifiers in the spring from the website when it was 80 bucks. Out of curiosity does anyone know where there is a video where they go into more detail about the braking system on the revo s? I know it has 3 centrifugal breaks and 3 pitch breaks. Sounds like the pitch breaks are just centrifugal breaks that work during the entire cast.

I have 3 pro qualifiers and think they are a good reel but I decided to go with a revo 3 s this time. It'll be here Monday.

I've been using Eagle Claw steel football jigs. They're available in my favorite colors (green pumpkin,black and blue, black and red, and white). I caught a few big ones on them last year so works for me. I think they were 3.99 at dicks. The tungsten ones I believe were $6 or $6.50.

MA made lead sinkers illegal last year. There's some exceptions like if the weight is 1 oz or higher you can use it. It doesn't allow lead jigs however lead spinnerbaits are still okay.

Thank you so much everyone. I'll stick to the 20 lb big game.

I just bought a new Revo 3 S (wish they made a 7:1 but it'll work. It's my first non Pro Qualifier reel yay ) to stick on my Cabelas Prodigy Heavy action 7'0 rod to use for my flipping setup. I'm thinking about putting more backing on my reel this time to save on fishing line because I'm getting married in two months and money is tight. I typically put on a little backing usually 20 lb test cheap stuff (Berkeley Big Game; just enough to cover the spool a few times so the braid won't slip). This time I want to fill the reel with more monofilament and then maybe 60 yards of 30 or 50 lb braid at the end. Is 20 lb mono backing fine with this application or should I use heavier line at the end of the spool if I'm going to be using this much backing? Any tips would be appreciated. Thank you.

Welcome to the forums. I'm new myself from Massachusetts. There's plenty of good bass fishing up here to be sure. I caught my biggest bass last year out of a 30 acre pond up here (a 6 lb 4 oz largemouth) including 3 other 5 lb bass from the same pond last year. Someone caught an 8 lb bass on opening weekend at the Quabbin Reservoir last year. I'm hoping to get my mitts on one of those this year.

Yeah it's for backing. I'm not worried about getting to the line. The knot is going to bulge out from the spool as it is bulkier than line itself and I'm just worried about the tag ends cut close as they are may still catch the line during the cast or damage the line as it's going over it.

6 turns as I usually do when tying a clinch knot.

So I got my line on. I have 85 yards of stren 12 lb backing tied to 12 lb invizx on my crankbait setup using a double uniknot and I don't really like how it looks. I just started using an Alberto knot tying braid to fluorocarbon on my jig and worm setups. Would the Alberto or Albright knots work tying monofilament to fluorocarbon or is there another better alternative. I just don't want my line getting stuck on my spool or damaged when the line eventually gets closer to the knot on the cast.

I started out casting years ago with a cheap Cabela's Black Label II reel and it wasn't great for a beginner. I got so frustrated because every 10 casts it backlashed on me. You need to have a good braking system. When I got back into baitcasting 3 years ago I bought a Bass Pro Qualifier and had no problems casting with that reel. The centrifugal braking system made a huge difference and made it a lot easier for me to learn how to use it. It comes from bass pro with 4 of the breaks on on the spool but as you get better at using it you can turn breaks off. I only use one of the six breaks now. I'd say for a beginner that may be one of the best ones to start with and it's on sale in the store for 80 bucks right now. It'll be on sale online probably middle of March. I own three pro qualifiers now and absolutely love them. I just ordered a Abu Garcia Revo S for my flipping rod because I wanted to try something different this time. The next reel I'll buy will probably be a Lews Tournament Speed Spool for squarebill fishing because I want to know what all the hype is about. You can teach yourself how to throw a lure on a baitcaster but as said earlier tart in the 3/8 oz range with a rod that isn't overly stiff so you can more accurately throw your casts where you want them. A 3/4 arm cast is good. Keep your arm always at your side like you're trying to hold something in your armpit and not let it fall and just toss the lure out. Distance will come in time as you learn how to properly thumb the spool during your cast and are able to turn more breaks off. Set your spool tension knob so the lure falls about half the speed of normal gravity. You can set it tighter at first so the lure barely falls at all if you'd like too. Hope this is helpful.

I did get some twisting as the line was coming off the spool when I spooling the line onto my reel so I hope this won't be Cabela's Pro Line all over again but only time will tell I guess.

Ended up going with the Seaguar Invizx. I was going to get the red label to try it out but they didn't have it at Dick's. I was already looking at the ratings of it on Bass Pro and seemed like the highest rated by the most people. I guess I'll try backing the reel with stren and put 65 yards of invizx try to get 3 spools out of it.

Looking for something a little more economical if possible. I don't really want to spend $35 spooling one reel. Thanks for the response.

I was wondering how everyone felt about fluorocarbon main line for baitcasters. I'm getting more into crankbait fishing this year trying to figure out which line to spool on my pro qualifier. Looking for something not too stiff that wont just birds nest on a long cast. I want to put it on my 4.7:1 reel for deep cranking.

Plenty of cottonwood trees up here in the northeast too. It can be brutal fishing in it sometimes takes a couple minutes to pick the stuff off your line. I think I'm just going to go with a veritas x-fast 6'9. Still get a little more sensitivity with the extra fast and don't have to worry about guides breaking whether on their own or from a knot going through the eye wrong.

Thank you for all the inputs. I guess I'll probably hold off for now and just buy a sellus 7'2 extra fast for Carolina/texas rigging. I'll look into a micro guide rod later down the road for another application where I don't need to join two lines together.

I'm looking to buy a micro guide rod in the $100 range (the ones I've been looking at are Abu Garcia Veritas, Duckett Ghost, and Wright & McGill Skeet Reese Micro Honeycomb Rod). I've never owned a micro guide rod before so I don't know what to expect. My intention is to buy a 7' medium heavy with a 1/4-1 oz lure rating for tossing out Texas rig/Carolina rig worms (using Carolina keepers for convenience to switch back and forth between the two as necessary) and maybe get another bass pro pro qualifier reel with 30 lb power pro with a fluorocarbon leader. My concern is with the durability of the guides. I've read a lot of reviews on these rods (some good and some bad). So what I was wondering is there a good micro guide rod in this range that will with stand using braided line tied to a fluorocarbon leader without knocking out the inserts or wearing down the guides itself. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you.