Bass_junky

A couple years ago, during pre-spawn. I was using the original Senko. I was having limited success. On one cast my line was caught by a lilly pad, as I reeled the Senko up and over the lilly pad I caught a nice 3 lbr. I thought for a moment and my next cast I held the rod up at about 11 o'clock position and increased the retrieve speed. Amazingly I could actually see the wakes from the bass approaching and engulfing the Senko. I had one of my best days with this as a top water presentation. When they released the swimming Senko, I had to try it as a top water presentation. This is becoming one of my favorite top water lures. You can vary the retrieve speed to generate as much action as you want, but you have to changed weight size. IF you do get a missed strike, simply let it flutter for a moment. Isn't this typical of a bait fish being stunned? I am going to continue to experiment with it more with a Carolina rig/Mojo.

I am surprised nobody mentioned the new swimming senko's. I have found this to be a potential #1 for me in clear water. Think about it, if it misses on first strike, simply stop the retrieve and let it sink, 75% have given a second opportunity for a hook set.

Thanks for the response RW. I noticed you are from Germantown, Tenn. I believe, my father & I use to pass through your area on our way to lake Cherokee/holsten river area, was very long time ago. I say I believe, due to typically i was asleep, lol....was long drive from KY then. I thought about the tidal water, but in Oregon on the Umpqua I have caught nice smallies less than 15 miles from the ocean, th is is well over 50 miles from the ocean. I will try different areas, may be due to tidal in this area or industries. I have covered (hit & miss of course) a range of 10 miles. But I have the same thoughts in my mind, just paranoid of the winds on the Columbia to venture too far. Guess I need to baton down the hatches and give it a whirl.

Bass Pro (t.v. series) just had a show on the exact scenerio. KVD, was the host and was using jerk baits. As mentioned previously he stated "when they follow but do not strike, firtst change the action, then the color". He suggested more aggressive action, such as increasing the jerks in series, instead of jerk, jerk, reel, jerk jerk, reel, mix it up. Try a series of 4-2-3-1 jerks, if that doesn't work try altering colors. If they are following they like what they are seeing, but just need a bit more of enticement.

It's time I ask some expert smallie fisher-people for some help. I have caught my share of smallies but have never been so perplexed with this new area, the lower Columbia River. I have fished all the tides, slack water, sloughs, deep main river structures. Let me re-phrase I have fished all these areas "unsuccessfully". I have thrown everything from dropshots, rattle traps, hula grubs, 3/16" spinnerbaits, 4" senko's, 4" worms ect....I have fished from 4ft to 30ft depths without success. This is tidal water, water temps are currently mid 60's water visibility is about 3-4ft, which should clear up in the next week. I have looked for the deep structure in the main river, but it is almost impossible to fish due to wind, unless you troll, eww. I have tried dragging lurs across points, inlet channels, ect... This river has humbled me to say the least. I could venture to the mouth of the Willamette river but that is a very far run from my launch point. I am on the downstream side of Portland, OR. about 25 miles as the river flows. If any of you have any wisdom you would share and what your approach would be, I would appreciate your comments. Get this monkey off my back!!

I have been playing with shakey head jigs. I have found on spinning reel that I get extreme line twist using Flouro. I was wondering how everyone deals with this (without using a swivel). Do you simply cut-off the line after so long a period, what tricks does everyone have up their sleeve? Thanks

I think this is a great topic. My son has joined our club and is competing in qualifiers as a non-boater. After fishing so long together, I am trying to coach him on properly fishing in someone elses boat. He is frustrated as well, by the boaters. I coached him in asking certain questions to the boater in order. First, ask the boater if he is familiar with the water. He may be open to suggestions if he is not. With gas prices at an all time high, i believe boaters are restricting long distance pre-fishing. second, ask the boater what type of techniques he plans on fishing during the tourney. This will give you some time to think about your strategy. I guess what I am getting at, there are ways to ask questions without sounding insulting or intimidating to a boater. I am always open minded, but i realize all boaters are not that way....Good luck and I will be watching this post to help my son along as a non-boater...

I may be wrong in my review of the article, but looks like P-Line is the best bang for the buck! Thanks for posting Rockville...Great info

#1 Pline ! has the highest knot strength of all fluoros #2 Vanish #3 Seaguar (my first year testing it, need to give it time)

I'm sure you may have checked already but just in case, This may sound silly but doesn't it have a constant on switch?

It seems you have plenty of responses regarding braided line spooling. I totally agree with Avid's reply. No need to waste money by spooling 100% braid. I believe everyone focused on the braided line in your question. The other part of your question regarding drag setting. Your first option should be a limber tip with a stiff backbone regarding Rod for braid line. A stiff pole (until you are use to braided line) will cost you fish. If you do choose to use a stiff pole and adjust the drag, I would loosen the drag (another 20-30% compared to mono) and use my thumb for tension. Although this may be the cause of a very sore thumb at the end of a good day, it is a good pain!

I use a special synthetic (oil) blend given to me by some lubrication rep's i have met over the years in the Industrial side. I have a couple opinions on this thread. First, for those that may be unfamiliar with Viscosity, the charts are great information, but the higher the Viscosity index number the thicker the oil. If these are petroleum based oils this means, that in colder weather you would want to use a lower viscosity index number or it will be like reeling resin through your bearings and just the opposite in the heat of the summer. Reelmech is right on when he stated "Grease is a water barrier", pure and simple. Most grease is lithium or soap based excluding any synthetics. Do not use grease on any parts exposed to the environment, it will just attract dirt. Unless you use your reel every day or throw it in the dirt like my son use to an annual cleaning should be sufficient. My only input to this is I also apply a light coating of grease on the mating surfaces of the reel housing. I do this trying to keep any moisture out of the reel.

I'm having the same problem deploying my new ap/pd/us2 70. This is not a misalignment issue, seems to be a Minn Kota issue. After paying almost 1K seems it would almost deploy itself!! I thought the "effortless stoy & deploy" would help my back at the end of the day, pfft!! If it tourney season wasn't around the corner I'd send it back!!

Yes it is Castle Rock. There was a tourney this past weekend & I went to watch the weigh-in. I believe 15lbs took 1 st place. I saw about 25-28 boats (don't quote me on that) 9-10 boats had fish. What I saw in the boats were black/blue jigs, Senko's & white or chart. spinner baits. I didn't see anyone with tubes tied on? This tells me that the bass are tucked on the shoreline in that awfull brush.

Isn't that what the garage is for? ;D

I wouldn't waste my money on the everstarts. First i think they are onyl warranteed for 1 yr. If you are willing to spend a little more money you might check out Trojan batteries. I have had great success with these and have used them over an entire weekend on my old 12 v tm. I don't remember what the ah's are but that is easily found. I recently bought two new ones the 220's for 131.00 each.

If my memory serves me correctly (most of the time is doesn't) when these hooks first came out they replicated "gill flash". To me this means if you are fishing imitation, bait fish, lures and are looking for a reactionary bite, i believe they hold value. i have yet to find a red hook though that does not flake off. I use red copper? line, you can find it in the fly fishing section. I tie this at the base of my hooks but do not put any on the tail end hook. As mentioned we will never know unless the bass develop vocal cords, but it sure doesn't hurt to try it, under the right conditions.

I agree it needs to be moved closer to the "pad" but if that doesn't work you might also check your ping speed.

Without knowing what you are looking for, besides cost, Cabelas has/had the Lowrance 136 & 125 units on sale for around 400. You might check them out. I have the X-136DF for a my main sonar and wouldn't trade it for anything, except Hummingbird's newest addition, but who can afford 1800.00 for a unit?

I shouldn't mis-represent the weight, it was actually 6.7 but it feels good to round off, we are bass fishermen, right? lol

Sry, i misunderstood the post, i have universal sonar, no wires needed...

I appreciate everyone's response to the post. I did some research while waiting for the experience of this site & their opinion's. This is for a Minn Kota TM. I found (for 6 ga wire) Minn Kota plug & receptacle part number (Minn Kota) MKR-18 and MKR-18A in addition to. The MKR-18 is the basic plug and receptacle (8 ga would work for this) the MKR-18A is a 6 ga adapter that will plug into the back of the receptacle accepting 6 ga wire. Pre-Spawn is COMING !!!!!

I just purchased a Minn Kota Pd (see post Tm Connection) 24v. I re-wired utilizing 6 ga. wire (less resistance) and have batteries in back of boat where I mounted a 60 amp brkr and charger. If you could give a bit more details on what your after I "may" be able to help..

I have lived in the south (Ky & Tenn for approx. 20 yrs fished all over), I have lived on the Oregon coast (for approx 15 yrs fished Ten Mile Lake, Takenitch lake & Crane Prarie) and Montana (for approx two years primarily fished Noxon Res.) . I have tried Silver lake all season excluding the fall, this time is dedicted to Archery Elk. I caught the largest in the summer time on top water when all the lilly pads were up. Glenn, you may have a point, in my previous locations bass were more plentiful and maybe I just need to adjust.

I've lived in Western Wa. for about 1 1/2 yrs now. When i originally moved here people were saying Silver Lake is the best (large Mouth) bass lake in western Wa. I have fished it about 8 times now and i have a different opinion. I have caught my share, along with a couple 7 lbr's, but I have yet to have what I call a good day. When i fish this lake i have no confidence in it anymore. I do know that the grass carp had cleaned the lake bottom dry of weeds, so the lake has changed in the last few years. Just wondering what was the opinion (silver lake) of those that fish the lake.