Bass_junky

Cabelas sells the Minn Kota breakers (60) amp for about 40-50 bucks.

I recently purchase a new 24v TM (Minn Kota 70v2 pd/ap/us2 bow mount). I re-wired my boat for 6 ga. wire, due to less resistance to try and extend battery life. I thought I had bought the correct plug-in but I was wrong. I purchased a Marinco receptacle (4 wire post 12/24v) and Marinco Plug (Jumpered internally for 12v & 24v). With the Marinco apparently you wire both batteries to the receptacle, this is not what I want. I looked on web and am having a hard time finding a connector that will handle 6 ga. wire, most are limited at 8 ga. If anyone is using 6 ga. please any info would be appreciated.

I would use (at least try) a drop shot rig in those circumstances. Seems you could adjust the hook to be just above the weed line. I have also tried adding a rattle to the weight in weedy bottoms. My thoughts on this approach, it arouses a basses curiosity if they approach the sound, they see the worm above the weed line and lunch time! Just my thoughts

Just a word of caution if your Tm is still under warranty. It will void your warranty using your Tm (Minn Kota) designed for fresh water in salt water....

I use mono backing, then spool on the braid (Power Pro all the way). Typically, I only use about 75 yds of braid per reel mono for the rest. I will change out the braid once a year this way.

This post is good timing for me. I ordered a new Minn kota 70pd/ap/us 24v and am waiting on it's arrival. I re-wired for 6 gauge also. An after thought I have had is "will the trolling motor recepticle's come with 8 gauge adapter or 6 gauge? If so, does everyone cut and splice a new pigtail?

In everyone's experience, what is the best bow seat? It seems aging process is catching up with me and I am tired of my back busting after a day on the lake. I am looking for a new seat. I have looked at D.B.'s seat but 180 bucks is a bit steep. If this is the choice of the majority though it is money well spent. Thanks in advnce for the responses.

Doesn't the moon phase effect crayfish which is smallies primary food source?

I bought the SV unit a several years ago, it is great, specially for smallies (deep water). Although my first tourny, i dropped it in a likely spot and saw 4-5 suspended Largemouth and spent 2 hrs trying to catch them without a bite. Lesson learned. Now, I have found it's best use is after hooking a fish I drop the camera and see why he was in the area. If i see stumps, rocks, weedbeds, ect.. on the bottom, I have a start on how to pattern, and search for these areas. I also use this unit for pre-fish tourny's. If i spot bass, I clip the barb on my baits until i can get one to gulp it then I leave the area and search for more. This way I do not sting any fish and know (atleast for that day) where they are and what they want. All-in-all I have found this tool to be a great asset, especially in the deeper water patterns. I have had some problems with the unit. I have sent it back now three times over three years, but Aqua Vu has honored the warranty (even beyond), I am still waiting now for the unit to come back. I am anxious to see what charges (if any) will be applied. Suggestion: Do not leave this unit in direct sunlight for long durations, this may be what is causing the problems I have had.

I may be wrong, but I believe you will have to install a overflow (requires drilling hole in the side of your boat). I re-did mine a couple years ago and pulled the decks up and removed the tanks to assure I had no leaks. I don't remember the manufacture but I installed a valve system for recirculating-replenishing & draining. Total costs were about 100 bucks, excluding pump. Would hepl to see a pic of your livewell and boat....

This is a good topic, but i'm sure you will get mixed emotions as a outcome. I decided to rookie out my first season as a boater in local tourny's. It comes down to the reason you want to fish competitively. I prefered boater due to several reasons. I didn't want anyone saying I placed due to someone else, it was on my own experience and patience if i placed in the money. I do like to maintain control also. I had the time to pre-fish tourny's and try to pattern the fish, as a non-boater you may not have this option, you must rely on the boater. I do not trust the ethics of other boaters (this statement does not include all but some), i have heard the horror stories, they are their for themselves, not for the non-boater, which i understand. I have been in clubs that every lure & technique is a big secret and never shared amongst members, I call b.s. on this. Even though i am not a pro-fisherman, i will share my knowledge with whomever asks. I am always aware of the non-boaters and give opportunity for them to have position on and off throughout the day, i will always net for non-boater (if allowed) I have even shared tackle. I have also had non-boaters that I would have prefered to kick off the boat and let them float back to the dock, but did not of course. I have had several non-boaters weigh in better then me also, it does not upset me. I do believe a bit of luck is involved. I will not allow the non-boater to switch positions with me, period! The first time i did let this it cost me a prop and they did not offer to help replace it. But I will do my best to give him position on and off throughout the tourny. I do agree with one of the common statements in this topic, if you do not know how to launch or ramp a boat, learn it! It is the best thing a non-boater could do for the boater. If i had to do it all over again, i would join my first year as a boater!

I prefer using single willow or colorado depending on the required retrieve but I hand tie all my spinnerbaits with hair - no rubber, vinyl or silicone skirts

What part of Oregon are you inquiring about?

I have custom tied many jigs/spinnerbaits. I agree throw the whip tool out the window. If you are using a half hitch remember to bury the thread under the end wrappings. It may take extra time but the weed guard doesn't interfere, that much, if you have patience (something my kids taught me). You can use a small noose and lead weights to hold the guard out of your way while tying. Or modify your vice with a hold down for the end of the noose. I enjoy re-furbishing with hair on these lures and add custom colors to match bait fish/crawdads. I have even done this with Buzzbaits and have had great success, especially in a perch pattern....

I had the same issue last summer. I tried the "HE-MAN" approach cussed, ranted & raved then ended up throwing out my back, figures. I could rotate the seat but not remove it. Penetrating oils didn't work. How the posts get bound in the first place is beyond me. It seats in a graphite insert. I ended up doing as mentioned in a reply above. I waited for a hot summer day, took the cover off my boat and packed the shaft with ice, not the floor insert. I did use some WD-40 to clean out any lube, from my previous attempts. I don't know if this was coincidence or not but I was able to remove it.

First, i use different baits depending on the size fish i am seeking. For avg smallies, i have had best success with tubes/hula grub, but for bigger sizes i prefer the following: #1 Drop Shot #2 Split shot rig with Lizard #3 Hula #4 Yums Crawbug #5 Spnnier bait - modified hand tied hair

Buzzbaits are great top water bait to teach newbies how to fish top water baits. Let me explain. Typically your rod is at approximately 10'-11' o'clock position with a buzz bait. Teaching newbies to get used to this will help hook more fish. The reason I state this is if you watch your lure when you see the swirl drop your rod to 7-8 o'clock prior to setting the hook. This gives the delay to allow the fish to grab hold of your buzzbait and also teaches patience with other top water baits. To answer the question, I always delay setting the hook with top water baits. My buddies frowned at me if i don't, due to the lure whizzing by their heads.

I have the MK-330. There are no issues leaving it plugged in 24/7. This is stated directly in the manual. They will go into a maintenance mode when the batteries reach full charge.

For loan value(s) banks will use NADA guide exclusively....

Crawdads will typically start exposing themselves once water temp's reach low fifties. The males will begin their own spawing season within 1-2 weeks once the water temps are in low fifties. The males will expose themselves with pincers sticking out like the torches, hence easy meal for a sluggish bass, in hopes of attracting a female. Pre-spawn is the best time to utilize soft plastics representing craw dads. Some studies I have read in the past have stating, "bass prefer crawdads without pincers" - hence soft plastic tubes. There are numerous species of crawdads so colors are hard to match from lake to lake. Try chucking out a crawdad trap on your next fishing trip, check color and size, then dig through that bag of plastics and match up the best you can. Fish the rip-rap on min. 3/8 oz weight (to keep in on the bottom) and sweep/twitch your rod from side to side vs. up and down when retrieving, then reel up the slack, give a little twitch and go again. Can ya tell I love fishing crawdads.....Check out Yum's crawbug.....

I belonged to NAFC for several years. I did not renew my membership, it was not worth my investmement. As far as the field trials on equipment, after three years, I was sent a fillet knife to test, woohoo....Gimmicks Gimmicks....The magazine is by far too general. If you have any experience with any fish species, the articles are boring. It may be beneficial for novices.

I stated Motor Guide as a brand after reviewing articles on several sites. I found a couple threads that were stating MK wasn't as efficient on the batteries as the MG. If this is incorrect, please voice your opinion. This is something that I will only gets purchase every 4-5 years so I will have to live with what I purchase...... I have had my eye on the MG wireless any feedback? Thanks again!!

Time to purchase a new trolling motor and I would like to utilze the experience on this site to help decide which is the best one to purchase. So, if you had approximately 800 bucks to spend on a new (Motor Guide) which one would you purchase and please give brief description as to why you would make that choice....I do not want to purchase a analog trolling motor, digital is the way to go. I would like to stay around 75lbs thrust my old one was 45#. I have a 19 1/2' Fisher Sports Avenger (aluminum) semi -v hull and I would need a 52" shaft. Thanks in advance for the input

Trojan's Trojan's Trojan's. I will never use a different battery for my trolling motor. On the windiest days and high speed settings they last all day. I have camped over the entire weekend without recharging the batteries and still had power during the last hour of fishing. Granted the life of the battery is dependent on proper battery maintenance and model/style of trolling motor.

All documentation I read when installing a jack plate on my boat referenced 3" centerline to bottome of boat for a starting point. This is a reference only. Issues with water pressure should play a key role in this adjustment. The higher you raise your motor The better top end speed but hole shot is compromised. The lower the unit the better hole shot but less efficient at top end. All of this is also dependent on boat load. So these adjustments should be made on an avg load for your boat.