YourBassIsGrass

To add to this they have a digital maximizer. Fancy lingo that means the power is pulsed instead of a steady flow. It switches power on and off extremely quickly. For any given period of time, power is only drawn for half of that time. This dramatically increases the run time of your battery. I run the endura max 40 with a wally world 24 group lead acid marine battery. I have went 12 hours on a river and still had at least 1/2 the battery. I ran up river to begin and then floated down, but still used the trolling motor to hold positions here and there along the way back down. I was happy to know it would last that long.

I have a 16ft sportspal. When I was driving a scion tC I would use a moving blanket laid on top. I would put the blanket on the car, put one end of the canoe on the car, and slide it all the way on. Then just lift a side at a time and slip my foam blocks in place while pushing the blanket out of the way. Remove the blanket once all the foam blocks are in place and then toss it in the car. The foam block kit was a yakima set for around $60. Moving blanket runs about $20. If you have a rack already, you can still use the blanket to keep the canoe from scratching the car while pushing the canoe up and on. I now have a subaru outback and I put a hitch and reese tower power canoe loader on. The canoe loader works well and I picked it up on amazon for $57 when they had a deal on them.

Made the mistake of trying to lip one of those on vacation at Ocean City last year. Bought a pair of pliers at the end of the pier immediately after. Lesson learned.

If you had 50 bluegill I could see this maybe being worth the effort of pulling out the pressure washer and firing it up. But I think a scaling tumbler would be easier to use. For one bass, eh looks like a lot of time for very little extra meat. He says he likes that he gets a bit more meat doing the pressure wash than fileting.

I guess if your wife is mad that you went fishing instead of cleaning the patio, you can kill two birds with one stone?

Agreed. Either there is a way to add yourself on that page and it is not intuitive, or I am blind.

This! Oh my goodness, so much this! Not only does it not show up in the tv schedule as whether it is 'new' or 'repeat', and they don't label the title of the show very well, I need to watch the first 10 minutes or so to tell whether I DVR'ed a repeat or not. Then to add on to it the Select series stuff they throw in makes it all over the place. I usually end up seeing guys fishing in the cup series and then later see them trying to qualify for the show I just watched in a Select series match. I just wish they would label them with and episode number. Or at the very least schedule out all the Select series first and then follow that with the Cup series so you can root for the little guys you have been watching for a month.

I think that at the very least providing a hypothesis to your thesis would be a good starting point. Are you looking to change a lure to become more attractive? Or would the basis of the study to understand whether eye tracking can be used at all? If you are going for the latter, you could start with getting an eye tracking system to at the very least recognize a fish eye and 'lock' onto it to start tracking. As stated earlier, most fish, including bass, cannot constrict/dilate their pupils and they also adjust their focus differently than a human. Not sure how you would need to configure your recognition software to compensate. If you would be able to create an application that would be able to perform the very basics of eye tracking on fish you would have a decent thesis. Application of the findings (determining the attractiveness of items in front of a fish) would be a bigger step, but probably just as lengthy a goal.

A moving pad works nicely if you are using foam blocks. You can slide the thing all over and not worry. The other option is use a loader. If you have a trailer hitch you can mount the loader in and easily lift and load. http://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-7018100-Canoe-Loader/dp/B0024FOTOW

I have mentioned this one before, and I don't see anyone posting about it (must be a local only kind of lure since its made in WV) but Joe's Flies are the absolute go to lure for stocked trout around here. Great prices and great durability. http://www.joesflies.com/shop/home.php I have found them in all major stores with fishing departments in the pittsburgh area (although I rarely find the silver blade ones) but I think that outside of the area you may need to order online.

Nice looking ride! They are definitely a great stable canoe to do some serious fishing out of. Did you put a car mat under your seats to put your feet on? If so, good idea to keep the bottom clean. I got into some muddy banks last year and the inside of mine is still tinted brown from that.

I haven't seen this one listed yet so I'll mention it. Joes Flies I have caught so many trout on these it is ridiculous. I usually just take 4 or 5 different ones with a couple different blades. Since you can interchange the fly from the spinny bits you can 'make' new combinations on the go. I have rooster tails, trout magnets, spoons and various other stuff but am so confident in the joe fly that I rarely even put anything else on, just change color or blade size.

I troll for trout just about all the time now after learning it a couple years ago. I have a canoe, but the method should still be the same. I only just this year bought rod holders so if you don't have them no worries. I usually will put on a Joe's Fly with a small splitshot 18" up the line. Then cast it back a good 60'-80', if you can't cast it out that far just start paddling and let line out. The more line you get out the deeper your lure will go. On some smaller lakes you can't let out that much line, add more split shots if needed. Set the rod in the holder, or put the butt of the rod on the bottom of the canoe/kayak and let it rest on the gunwale. Pay particular attention to the tip of your rod while paddling. You want the lure to be spinning the blades, not helicoptering/twisting or falling dead. You want the tip to be pulsing from the turning of the blades on your spinner. It is actually pretty easy to be going too fast. Only need to paddle once every 5-6 seconds (your paddling may vary). Once you get the rhythm down start doing some big S turns, mix in some little S turns. If you want to keep a straight line you can also pull the line every so often with your hand to make the lure speed up real quick and then let it go and the lure will flutter down until the boat pulls it along again. One thing to note, you will get some nasty twists in your line running a split shot without a swivel above it. If you paddle too fast for awhile it will really add to the twisties. PITA. They do make some 'keel' weights which are supposed to keep the line steady and let all the twisting happen only on the line between the weight and the lure. I haven't tried them yet so don't know how well they work. Regardless, if you have line twist real bad, when you are done for the day take off your lure and play out a bunch of line into the water (just line with nothing tied on) and take a lap around the area. Just the pull of the water on the line will take all the twists out.

The most fun I ever have fishing is going crappie hunting during summer evenings with a fly rod and a foam wing mayfly. Great fight and you catch 'em as fast as you can cast if you are on 'em.

The biggest bass I ever caught in this lake was right at the area you described on opening day of trout 3 years ago with a lipless red eye shad. I didn't know why at the time, but apparently it is a worthwhile area.

Very true. This place was create by Alcoa in the 40s to help steel production during WW2. Guess they didn't expect to need all that much water, haha! The 90 degree line there unfortunately isn't marker buoys, more than likely whoever auto mapped this lake was being nice to the bank fisherman who usually stack up there who have a bevy of lines out right before the dam there. Looks like they just avoided that area to keep from getting tangled in line. There are no markers, just a sign that says stay back dummy, big drop up here. As for the other parts, I think I am following. I updated it with some red circles, do they look accurate?

I recently was able to track down a lake map (thanks to the guys over in the boat threads) for my closest lake that I fish frequently. It is a small reservoir and isn't very deep. Could you guys help get a good idea of where things would likely be good here? The dam is at the top left and the bottom right is VERY silted in right before the causeway (<3 ft). Thanks http://imgur.com/mdyzuIa

After digging through each companies lake map stuff. I found that Insight Genesis for Lowrance has a free sign in area to view community maps. Best of all I found that almost all of my regular haunts are pretty well mapped! Thanks guys for the heads up on pointing me to the correct terminology to find some answers. Looks like I may not need to do my own mapping after all.

So from what I understand, Insight is for Lowrance and AutoChart is for Humminbird? Navionics is for any of the systems? Does Garmin have some play in this? Such a confusing mess.

Thank you for the detailed info. Right now I have two grapple anchors on 50ft each. The deep spots on two of my lakes are less than 20' so I have gotten away with the shorter lines. But 75' sounds like it would be a bit better, especially by removing the core of those braided style lines. My problem more than likely was the starting too close deal. I did always seem to slide out on an anchor that was too vertical and could never keep them tight. Hopefully I can get some time on the water soon and do some practice with the windy spring.

I would not mind having to take something home and upload onto a pc to have it saved off and then reload to the finder later. Do I need to buy some sort of sd card or something for the unit? I know for sure every lake that I fish is not on any of the map things as I have exhaustively searched for lake lists and they are on nothing. Which is why I want to plot my own so I can come home and pour over the data a bit to find better areas. Do those AutoChart/AutoChartLive things have community maps that are updated? I could have sworn that I saw something at some point that referenced people joining maps together or something. All of this is confusing to me with so many brands and special names for the same stuff.

Any tips on setting achors? I've been in my canoe and had to anchor in the wind to hold spots, but never really got the hang of how to get it just right and settle on top of my spots while double anchoring.

I picked up a x-4 pro fish finder when I first started getting into fishing with my canoe. I realize now I would really like to be able to putz around a lake while shooting the sonar and have it map the lake and save it for future. My lakes are pretty small and within 5-6 trips I would be able to scan all of it. Is there a system out there that can do this? I keep reading in all the cabela's and bps catalogs that lowrance has this map card thing and humminbird has some neat chip. What is the deal? If the scanning lake into memory is possible, what do I need to do to make that happen? Obviously need a new fish finder, what kind/brand would be cheapest to accomplish this (I am on a canoe and don't want a $1000 unit taking a dip). Do I need some sort of app or website membership? Do I need to buy a map chip thing? Thanks