Josh Smith

But... but... but... Tungsten's toxic! Look, anything out there will poison you or cause cancer. Medicine is just controlled toxicity. Those magnesium frames folks like? Allow one to oxidize and it will cure you of constipation. Josh

Hello, Back when I started fishing, lots of folks broke the tips off their rods to use with jerkbaits. I never did that, but rather just used a MH/F. Never did this much though; I don't like treble hooks. I'm exploring lures that tend to be my weak points, and jerkbaits fall into that category. Modern technology has given me tools that make these presentations make sense to me without ultralight leaders etc. I am finding that I like a M/F 6'6" rod for 3/8oz to 1/2oz jerkbaits. The reel has a 31ipt pickup. I'm using 30lb Power Pro with 8lb fluoro leader. The drag has carbon clutches and is backed off quite a bit. The idea behind this setup is to give me the ability to barely move my hand to twitch the lure, while being a "soft" enough setup to keep the trebles from ripping out. I still need to fully test it, likely in the river this weekend. What do you all use for jerkbaits? I am a bit concerned over the seeming 180 degree turn from how we used to fish jerkbaits, but the setup makes sense to me. Thanks! Josh

Tag.

Hello, I really like my Cherrywood HD rod. It is 6', MH/F, and the cork grip is hand-and-a-half. It's almost perfect for its niche! There are a couple improvements I'd like, though. First would be better guides. Second would be slightly lighter weight. The reel seat is acceptable, but could be better. What rods should I look at? Hybrid graphite and glass, as light as this construction will allow; 6' MH/F, guides that are something besides metal inside, and a fairly short cork handle and quality reel seat would be the specs. Price can be up to $150 or so. Basically, I'd like a Cherrywood HD without the budget features. Thank you! Regards, Josh

Dad's second baitcasting reel was a 1310. It's what let me inherit his Ambassadeur 5000! I fixed one up for my wife and she's learning the baitcaster with it. It's the hardest to backlash I've seen in quite a while. I'm backing off the brakes as she gets better. Yes, it's still a very usable reel. The gear ratio is 5:1 or so, so consider that when you choose techniques for it. Regards, Josh

Sounds like we have similar techniques. Difference is, I've never bass fished at night. Probably should try it. I've always joined friends for catfishing at night. That looks like a really nice reel. Not sure about the brakes -- will watch for the answer on that as I'm curious, too. Josh

Thank you for letting us know. It's sad.

If a person is able to think and pattern, and has the time to practice on the water, he stands a pretty good chance. I will not limit my own abilities in anything due to what others think I can do. I'll reach my own limits and exceed them. I've debated participation in local tournaments. I like camaraderie. I do not like ego, and I despise hero worship. Never have I liked folks telling me what I can't do. Chances are I'll turn around and do it to prove them wrong. You're safe in this argument because it's hypothetical. Mr. KVD is likely too busy doing what he does to stop and fish with any one of us. I've never liked people who argue hypotheticals as a sure thing as a way to look smart without facing the possibility of losing that argument. I'm sure you're a good enough guy in your way. You rub me wrong, though, and I'm really sorry for that. I'll find out if this forum has an "ignore" button feature, and if so, I'll use it so as to prevent future misunderstandings. Regards, Josh

There's something to be said for old tackle. New too, but old as well. The faster IPT of the new reels provide better feedback to the reel handle through the line to let me know when all slack is gone. On the other hand, the old reels with dog and ratchet stops let me know, through the reel handle, when something actively hits the lure. I would like to build one reel, anyway, without the anti-reverse bearing, using a dog and ratchet instead, but with fast gears. Anyway, since they both have their uses, I'll keep using both old and new together. Problem with this thread? Nobody's wrong! Josh

I just received my 4600c3. It had 5.3:1 gears in it, so I upped it to 6.3:1 for 31.2ipt (actual, measured, full spool). My other two main reels still run 26ipt, including my jig rod. Though I may up my frog rod, I like my jig rod where it's at. I've enjoyed this thread. There are so many fishing styles that are different than mine, and I have learned to adopt elements of each. Nobody can tell another what fishing style will work best for him, but open sharing of info makes every person who willing to experiment just a little bit better. Josh

Double post. Please delete.

What others? This could be good info. Regards, Josh

Anything Ambassadeur that had "C" in the name used bearings, and anything without the "C" used bushings. For example, The 5000 had bushings. The 5000c had bearings. The 5500 had bushings. The 5500c had bearings. Lots of times the bushings would actually out-cast the bearing models, and I keep a 5500 non-c around for this reason, and I've been thinking about taking one of the Ultra Cast 5500c3 reels I've modded down to bushings in the spool. Bearings help the reel start up, but bushings can keep it going longer. It's weird, I know. Thinking about it, I might just have a spool I can use to interchange so I can have both for that reel. Josh

If I used magnets, I probably would do much the same. As-is though, I open the tension up so that it overruns from 4' up, and I run heavier/more (depending on reel) centrifugal brakes. My thumb does what your magnetic brakes do, and the tension is only there to keep me from burning my thumb. Josh

You know they started out the same thing, right? Josh

"Set right" generally means that you turn off the brakes (in the case of magnetics), hold the rod horizontally, and release the spool. The lure should fall slowly to the ground, about one to two seconds from four feet up. You then turn the brakes back on to medium (or whatever) and cast. Setting tension is an individual thing, though, and I don't use that method any longer. That's just the stock answer provided by most manufacturers. Regards, Josh

Hello, My two "go to" baitcaster setups are a 5500c3 (modified) on a 6' MH/F Cherrywood HD, which does exactly what I want it to with heavy jigs, and a 7' Daiwa MH/F, likewise with a 5500c3 (modified), which has become my frog rod. It seems to have more backbone than most MH/F rods, and though I'm thinking of switching it to a H/F next season, it really does what I need it to do, though I might be pushing it. I've also been using this 7' Daiwa for jerkbaits, though I really need to speed up the reel by about 5ipt to make it excel in this area. Now, I have another Daiwa rod, a 6'6" M/F version of the same model Daiwa I use for frogs and such. For my birthday I ordered a 4600c3 reel. I think I'm going to put faster gears in it; as it comes, it's a 26ipt reel. I have it planned to set atop the Daiwa M/F 6'6". The setup is going to be spooled with 40lb braid and will have a fluorocarbon leader. The idea behind this setup is lighter plastic worm fishing this winter, probably alongside my ultralight doing some fishing in the river after the lakes freeze. Been thinking, though, that it might also make a good jerkbait rod, though I prefer an XF or XXF tip for those. Still, it might be fast enough. I have some spoons that might need a slightly lighter rod. When I throw spoons, generally throw heavier ones with the heavier rods, but that may change. I have some smaller spoons that are neglected. Thoughts? I guess I started a combo build with a purpose in mind, but it's evolving to either another, or an additional, purpose than I'd initially intended. What do you think? Regards, Josh

I see brakes as a convenience -- and there's a lot of difference, too, between magnetic and centrifugal brakes. Growing up as I did with the 5'6" pistol-grip casting rods, I learned to accelerate them fairly fast on the cast. It was still a smooth cast; don't get me wrong, but it was faster because the arc described by the tip of the rod was shorter and so speed had to be increased faster. Therefore, a bit of braking at the beginning of the cast was beneficial. This is where centrifugals shine. I eventually learned to back off a lot of the spool tension and apply tension with my thumb. I began by riding the spool, but eventually got to where I'd float my thumb and only apply a bit of tension when I feel the line beginning to "fluff" up. Now, I back off the tension quite a bit, but use more initial braking (centrifugal) than most folks. I don't want brakes after I fire it out there. I've found that magnetic brakes are a heck of a lot easier to teach, though, than centrifugal. My wife just started using a baitcaster (1310 Quantum I modified for her) for the first time, and only twice this year. My boy, who is 7, can likewise control a magnetically-braked baitcaster (Quantum Lite, likewise modified, but for him.) Granted, my boy doesn't get a lot of range yet, but we're working on that. It's mainly because I have the magnetic brakes cranked up and am gradually turning them down as he gets better. Belle has both her great-grandfather's Bronson baitcaster and a 5000c I modified. She sorta' claimed the 5000c and I put it on a pistol-grip handle. The sits and plays fishing for about 1/2 hour at a time! Push button, "cast", reel. Belle with a 5500; she wanted to play with Daddy's old gear that day: If she want to actually use the 5000c, she'll have to learn to use centrifugals. I figure I'll start her in about another year, the summer after she turns 3. Regards, Josh

Is that what it's called? I always thought of it as "anti-lock braking" a spool. Josh

This is why any low-profile reels I get will be Shimano. I love my Abu Garcia round reels (not S, which are made in China.) I can't get behind any of these Chinese reels, though, Abu's included. If they're all the same reel, why bother with brands? It's all marketing hype. I go with reels with solid reputations, not just names, no matter the name's reputation. You have to look at the guts of the thing to judge quality. The Ambassadeur line, for example, is largely unchanged since the early-'80s with the *** of the Ultra Cast desige, and before that, since its ***. Shimano looks like the same basic Lew Childress design from back then, too, with some streamlining and modern improvements. It's too easy to buy crap today under the guise of a respected name. We are supposed to stay away from politics here. It is not politics to state manfacturing realities: Chinese working conditions are generally deplorable, and borders on slave labor. Slaves, also generally speaking, don't take pride in what they build. Therefore, while crap can be built in any country, it's more likely to be built in the country employing borderline slave labor. Josh

Might just save the reel. Josh

Nobody preaches like the converted.

The one thing that made me laugh most was an otter that kept poking its head out of the water to stare at me. Nothing complicated. Just a good day fishing with some company I'd not expected. Josh

I built one, in a similar manner to how I build pre-UC Ambassadeurs, for my wife. It is what she is learning on. This one is on a graphite frame, but I'm thinking of putting it on a metal frame I have since she's getting so into fishing. I chose the 1310 because I found it incredibly hard to backlash. More magnets than standard, I think. She's pretty proud of it, and it works well for her. It is therefore, "best"! Regards, Josh

Like GulfCaptain said. Though here it's a lot more theory than fact, and I use high-capacity reels. Were I using lighter low-profile reels, I'd be slightly concerned about long-running critters. A lot more probable in the South, though, than here. Regards, Josh