Josh Smith

You know, I've actually thought about getting my SCUBA certification and doing this in certain spots. I'm concerned about seaweed though. Josh

What was said. Clean it as you normally would, but no touchup blue etc. Is it cosmoline or rust inside the barrel? You might check out one of the forums that specializes in this sort of thing. I frequent several due to what I do for a living. Feel free to PM me if you wish. Regards, Josh

Hello, This started as a response to another thread but I figured it was enough of a divergence that I probably should create a new thread. You'll very rarely see me discussing reel gear ratios anymore. I've done it once or twice on this board prior to realizing exactly how much reels have changed since the ones I've always been used to. I only want the bottom line of inches retrieved for inches of distance I move the reel handle. C = π • d , where C is circumference (or distance traveled per turn) and d is diameter. Let's say the reel has 30IPT of retrieve. For a 3" reel handle, C = π • 3 ≈ 9.42 inches. That means that for every 30" of line retrieved, 9.42" is traveled by the reel handle. The overall ratio is 3.18 : 1 . Now, take that same reel and give it a 3.5" handle: C = π • 3.5 ≈ 11 inches. This means that for every 30" of line retrieved, 11" is traveled by the reel handle. The overall ratio is therefore 2.73 : 1 . For comparison, an Abu Garcia 5500 from say, 1975 has a retrieve of 23IPT. The stock handle has an center-to-center length of 2.17" at the knob centers. We'll say 2.20" as this this easier to work with. Plug'n'chug: C = π • 2.20 ≈ 6.91 inches. (You see where this is going...) This means that for every 23" of line retrieved, 6.91" of distance is traveled by the reel handle. This is an overall ratio of about 3.32 : 1 . Of course, we take that same reel and put a 3.5" handle on it (C = π • 3.5 ≈ 11 inches), the overall ratio drops to 23:11 or 2.09 :1 . Math is some fun stuff, isn't it? I don't care what the inside gears are. The gears are there to work with the spool and reel handle to make the reel feel a certain way (ergonomics) and to give the reel a certain mechanical advantage. Internal gearing only gives about half the picture. So why the change? Well, simply put, ergonomics. Larger reel handles get the elbow and shoulder working, allowing more initial power to be imparted. With that small 2.20" reel handle referenced for the '75 5500, motion is pretty much limited to the wrist and forearm. What's stronger? The muscles controlling the elbow and shoulder, of course. So you want to get a certain retrieve rate out of a certain lure, right? Well, the 3" handle on the 30IPT reel and the 2.20" handle on the 23IPT reel get very close to the same performance. So why choose the 3" handle reel for faster speed? It feels better. It fatigues less because of the muscle groups used. You could use both reels with about the same effect for maybe 15 minutes, then the advantage of the stronger muscle groups would begin to show. That is, if you're a typical person with more power in his biceps and chest than in his forearms. If you're built like Popeye, you might just have a better time with the short handle! My contention is that reel gearing is mostly hype. Sure, if you're comparing, say, a Black Max to a Pro Max, you'll have two reels that are similar enough that the only real point of difference is the internal gearing. If you start comparing a Black Max to a 5600c3, however, you'll have a radically different feel, and not just because of the different shapes. The two reels are similar in ratio, the Black Max being 6.4:1 in gearing while the 5600c3 is 6.3:1 in gearing, but the Black Max has two inches-per-turn less than the 5600. A better comparison would be a 5500c3 and a Black Max. The 5500c3 has gearing of 5.3:1 but brings in 26IPT! The Black Max, with its 6.4:1 gearing, only brings in 28IPT. I've not worked out the math regarding handle length on these to reels, and therefore don't know the overall mechanical advantages displayed by the two. My suggestion for selecting a reel is to figure out how long a handle is most comfortable for you, and then decide what you want your retrieve rate to be. Then you can calculate the gearing you need to arrive at the reel that's best for you. That's how I do it, anyway. Regards, Josh

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/145860-reel-gearing-vs-inches-retrieved-turn-of-the-reel-handle-and-mechanical-advantage/ Edit: I made this answer a separate thread as it was divergent enough to constitute a threadjacking. Regards, Josh

Overall ratio is changed. The distance traveled by your hand : inches of line retrieved is certainly changed. Josh

1. It produces greater leverage, as was said. In doing this, you reduce the overall gear ratio of the reel, thereby reducing the top speed of the retrieve. Mostly this won't be noticed. 2. It some (maybe most) cases it allows the elbow to help with the retrieve, allowing greater power due to improved ergonomics. Remember that the crank is a glorified lever. It transforms distance traveled to power. The greater the distance traveled for one spool revolution, the more torque imparted on the spool, gears, etc. Josh

Ctrl + V

Hello, Are you using Google Translate or similar? Josh

Oregon is the grandfather of Bowtech. I can't for the life of me recall what came between the two. Josh

Yes.

Music? While fishing?

Hello, I have been thinking about building another '70s 5000 I have laying around here. This time, I'll keep the low 3.8:1 gears that give it a 21IPT (or so; I'm guessing) retrieve. I usually use carbon drags without grease, but I'd grease the ones going in this one. I need to get a SS frame instead of the aluminum frame, though I'm sure the aluminum frame would hold up fine to most catfish and carp. I'm torn on whether to use bearings or bushings on the spool. I'm thinking bushings would be fine. They strike me as being tougher. I really don't like long rods or rod handles for bass fishing. A trophy bass might be landed best with one, but for the average bass and occasional bigmouth buffalo fish I catch, the pistol grips I prefer are just fine. The largest fish I ever caught, a buffalo, was landed with my 5000 (23IPT retrieve) and a pistol grip pole. I started getting worn out after about 15 minutes, but the rod held and so did my hand and wrist! However, for a dedicated bottomfeeder rod, I'd probably go with a hybrid rod design and a long handle I can tuck. Do you have thoughts on these ideas? Thanks, Josh

Yessir, I just bought one from BPS not too long ago, a 2014 model. It's a piece of quality. If I can get one for $30, dangit, I will! Regards, Josh

It had to be clearance priced at $30, or maybe it was a mislabeled made-in-China 5500 S or whatever the call 'em. The 5500c3 is NOT a $30 reel. Josh

Dang, you're 10 years younger than I am, Gardner! Ever hear of an overdraw? Here's one: http://www.boneheadbowhunting.com/bow-pro-overdraw-wsnap-it-rest-p-8336.html The Oregon bows were the first ones to send arrows over 300fps. I choose not to push mine that fast, but it'll do it if I set it up to do it. Oregon Bow: I have this problem with splitting arrows inside 30 yards or so. If you want to really practice for deer season, use the bow to hunt squirrel. Eventually you learn to anticipate any jump and aim accordingly. Compared to squirrel, a deer's jump is nothing! Regards, Josh

Heck, we're almost in the same boat and the same age. I wanted an Oregon back when I was a teenager. The cost was prohibitive. Got back into archery when I was 35 or so. I found a good, used Oregon for $100. I have no urge to push it fast. Still, with uncut 400 spine arrows and 125 grain points, it clocks at 210fps. It has zero recoil. When I shoot at the public indoor range, I have "kids" coming up and asking about it because it shoots right up there with their stuff in many cases. Josh

When I was growing up, we lived on a retired farm. We had rods up on the house and barn. Being the tallest thing around, the barn got hit all the time. Josh

Mmmm... where?

Which is the $30 reel? Josh

Yes, this is a good idea. I'd been trying to work out a way to get the bass down to the depth in which I caught it, but couldn't figure anything out. Sounds like your solution will work fine. I'm not a fan of poking holes in things when they're not required. I may still get the boat going before fall gives way to winter. If not, there's always next year. I'm wanting to try spoonplugging. Regards, Josh

Thank you! One reason I've never done any deep water bass fishing is because I've been afraid of blowing them up. Regards, Josh

My 5500c3 is one of my main bass reels. I have three types of bass reels: Original 5000/5500 series: Two are in active duty. Both are 5000 models. One is a 5000c and the other was a 5000. Both have been upgraded to 5500c specs but with 6 bearings including the crank bearing. These have 4.7:1 gears for a 23IPT retrieve. The next one, on a Cherryrod, is what you have. It's a 2014 model 5500c3 that has been supertuned and has 6 bearings including the crank IAR bearing. It has 5.3:1 gears for a 26IPT retrieve. The 5600 has all done to it that has been done to the 5500c3. Its main differences are a thumb bar and a faster retrieve. It's on a BPS Tourney special. It has 6.3:1 gears for a 30IPT retrieve. All are really excellent reels. Regards, Josh

Hi Folks, I've never had to do this. I watched the vid, though, and it seems simple. The question I have, though, is this: Where can one find the needle? Apparently they're tougher to get because so many druggies shoot up. It seems that having one or two in the tacklebox would be a good idea. Thank you, Josh

Give ya' 10 bucks for it!

I experienced this with Berkley Fireline and metal guides. Suffix 832, Spiderwire EZ Braid, and Spiderwire Stealth cure this problem for me. I was disappointed. Fireline was never like this before. Josh