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Josh Smith

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Everything posted by Josh Smith

  1. Hi Folks, I've taken up a new way of choosing lures. I have no idea if it's common. I live in a smallish town that has one Walmart. I go in, see what lures they carry, what's selling best, then leave. I go home and order lures they don't have. The way I figure it is most folks here get their fishing stuff at Walmart, and if it's selling well, the fish have probably been exposed to it too much and need something different. Is there anything to this mode of thought? Josh
  2. Go get a Mosin-Nagant, a Mauser, or a M1903, add a shotgun, and you'll be better prepared for dang near any wild critters than the majority of Americans. There are newer, better choices out there, but all that's gravy. Josh
  3. Do any of you all tie directly to the braid, or do you always used leaders? For those who tie directly to the braid, is there any time or lure for which you'll use a leader? Josh
  4. Well dang, I'm 36! I figured there'd be a lot of older folks here, but I'm only seeing five over 60. I guess all the old guys are out on the lakes most of the time. Owning my own business and having a family I'm finding that I'm freer to go fishing at the times I want, but the actual time fishing is vastly less than I want and far less than I'd have if I got a 'normal' job. Right now, I have to pick like two quality hours for fishing per week. I can't wait 'til I retire. Or heck, maybe I'll stop doing what I do and go into reel repair. That way I can test 'em before sending them back to the customer! Josh
  5. I would welcome facts to back up the opinion, Sir. In fact, I would invite you to do so. For me, dissenting points-of-view are only learning opportunities, but I feel let down when the statement isn't backed up. Josh
  6. But you can't make a good reel just anywhere. Look, I take things apart. A lot. I have to see how they work. When I rebuilt the 5600 after it was damaged in a move, I was amazed at how well the guts were made. I looked on the sideplate and it said "Made in Sweden". It was a nice surprise for me. Likewise, the Ambassadeur 5000s. Both of them are all-metal except for one nylon gear that drives the levelwind. It appears they used nylon for this gear for a specific reason. The one truth I've found with all things made in America, Japan, and China: 1. America: It's a matter of pride. 2. Japan: It's a matter of honor. 3. China: It's a matter of making things as cheaply as possible without bathroom breaks. I might try to get some "made for Japan" models if they're not made in China. I'd like to see them. What I've found to be the differences in reels made in Sweden, the U.S., Japan, and China, is this: Sweden, Japan, and the U.S. use plastic parts if it's the best part for the job. China uses plastic parts if they can get away with it, then often paint these parts (if they can be viewed externally) to look like metal. The first time I used the Black Max thumb bar I wondered how long the thumb bar would last. The thumb bar on the 5600, on the other hand, is gray plastic, makes no pretense of being plastic, and is made very sturdy. No way it'll break. I would have nothing against stuff made in China if they would only use better parts. I would question the politics, but this is not a political forum and I'm only mentioning this because I have the same thoughts that were voiced previously. I just deleted a rant below the numbers about trade relations and wars. I'd ask that we stick to quality of reels in this discussion, though, and preferences with regard to where reels are made. So, my findings are that, taken as a group, inferior products, whatever they are, come from China. This does include fishing reels. I don't know if I've ever examined a Korean-made reel. I'd like to. The few items I've had that were made in Korea in the past were pretty acceptable to good quality. Kia started out junk, but they've been getting more impressive of late, for example. Just some thoughts. Josh
  7. Hello, Thank you. What about these? http://www.abugarcia.com/products/import-products The Revos are made in Japan. I was looking at U.S. Reels, and brother, they're made in China now, darnit! I had high hopes. Josh
  8. That's disappointing. I trust South Korean manufacturing. I've had bad things happen with Chinese-made stuff. I'm also "that guy" who will buy a 1911 pistol, gut it of MIM parts, and replace everything with forged, milled, or even cast stuff by EGW, Brown, Wilson, etc. I need to go to one of the bigger cities with a pro shop and take a look at the reels there. Just an FYI: http://www.abugarcia.com/forlife and ... so not all are Korean or Chinese, and I really like the round reels. My 5600 is stamped "Made in Sweden". Not sure how old it is, but Dad had it a while. He told me when he bought it once, but I flat don't remember. Josh
  9. I haven't, but not necessarily. Some are made in China, but others are not. They'll say "Made in Sweden". This is why they have to be stamped one way or the other. Josh
  10. Heh, OLD, man. I'd have to look to be certain. One is a Bronson baitcasting. One is a Zebco 33. The two Abu Garcia 5000s and the one 5600MAG I have are Swedish. There's one green spincast that I think is a Bronson as well, but I'll have to look. It's in the other room and I'm lazy. The Bronson baitcaster feels more solid than a modern Quantum baitcaster. The USA-made 33 is definitely better made than Chinese-made 33s that I have handled and/or bought for others. The 5600 and 5000s are about as solid as one another, but make the Black Max 2 I own feel cheap. I enjoy getting my hands dirty and rebuilding reels, just like I do with guns and used to do with car engines. Still, having new reels sometimes feels good, and the 5600 is the newest non-Chinese reel I own. Josh
  11. I have an old Quantum 1310. It's older, I rebuilt it, and it's a sold reel. There's just nothing that makes it stand out among its contemporaries, and the same can be said for the current crop, too. I was browsing the fishing stuff in Walmart this evening as I had to go grab some dog food anyway, and there just wasn't much difference between the Quantum and the other reels except that it was priced higher. Actually, there wasn't much difference between the Abu Garcias, the Lews, the Pfluegers, and anything else, either. They all seemed to be made from a single design with the differences being the names. Honestly, I was just looking for one that didn't say "Made in China." Didn't happen. I'll consider a new Quantum, for sure, if it feels good and isn't made in China. I like Zebco's stuff. Josh
  12. Hi Folks, I'd like to know if there's a list of these anywhere. I prefer to buy fishing items that are made in the country the company's in. I prefer my Abu Garcia reels, for example, to be made in Sweden. Rapala knives and lures must be made in Finland or I'm not buying 'em. The list goes on. I have several American and Swedish made reels, and the Chinese reels just don't compare in quality and feel. Function might be similar, but I'm wiling to pay more for better quality. I'd like to know which reels, especially baitcasting, are made in places OTHER THAN CHINA. Regards, Josh
  13. Hi Folks, I ran to Walmart to grab dog food. I usually avoid Walmart but the wife forgot to get some today. I figured I'd look at the fishing stuff while I was there, and noticed a Pflueger lineup. One Plueger baitcasting reel was magnetic, but one had centrifugal brakes. I believe it was called a Templar. What is the current school of thought on Pflueger baitcasting reels? Are any NOT made in China? I really like my ultralight spinning reel they designed, though I was leery of buying it due to its Chinese manufacture. I only went with it because it was the smallest I could find made in any country. Thoughts? Thank you, Josh
  14. Hi Folks, I'm curious as to how old ya'll are. I get the feeling that there are a lot of younger people and some older people here, but not many my age. Voters are NOT public. Thanks, Josh
  15. I agree, and I believe I'm getting it. In fact, my 5600 has the Magtrax braking system, and I have no problems with that reel. I just don't use it as much because it's a heavier setup than I usually need (but when I do need it, I NEED it!) I still prefer centri brakes. I've always let my thumb hover and braked that way. I can see an advantage when casting into the wind, say, or when it's dark, as was mentioned. Now I'm all curious about a dual braking system. I'm a control freak to the point that I'd not want any brakes except a split second of centrifugals right after the casting swing, but having the magnetics could be interesting. Not have to hurry the thumb braking when I hear the splash, which may not come with certain lures or if I'm fishing a suburban setting or whatever. Thanks all, Josh
  16. So some of you have seen me bemoaning the reel I want to love, the Black Max 2. You've seen me unable to get used to the magnetic brakes as I was raised on centri's. I was playing with it the other day and it seemed to me that the magnetic brake works more toward the end of the cast, right where I don't need it. I've never had problems with the end of the cast. Dad always told me to thumb the spool so I didn't backlash, and I always have. I broke out Grandpa's Bronson Fleetwing. No freespool and no brakes on that one, just tension. The Ambassadeur 5000 brakes where I need it to, right at the beginning of the cast. It's spoiled me. I cast it and hover my thumb above the spinning spool. If the line begins to feel loose, I lower my thumb a bit. I seem to remember that taking some practice, but now I really enjoy feeling the line ride out. Sometimes I'll intentionally aim so as to cast past a spot I want to fish and stop the spool dead so the lure drops into the water with a splash. Heavy lures and spinners work well for this. ("Oops! Something died and is fluttering to the bottom! I better eat it!") I got to thinking about how I work the Fleetwing. I work it similar to the Ambassadeur, but take into account its lack of brakes. I turned the Black Max's mag brakes OFF, adjusted the tension, and cast a few times. That thing felt just like Grandpa's Fleetwing, but was quieter. Now I'm really not sure what I'm supposed to do with the breaks on that Black Max, though. Like I said, I don't need them at the end of the cast. They're a handicap there because I do everything with my thumb and always will. What I need is something to save me from backlashes at the beginning of the cast for that split second it takes to get my thumb feeling the spool. That means increase the tension. From what I'm reading, there are reels out there that have both magnetic and centri brakes. Why??? The baitcaster, I thought, was supposed to be controlled with the thumb. It's looking like the dual braking systems are designed to take the place of thumb control. Is this correct? I'm 36. Is that considered old among modern fishermen? The equipment around today just seems foreign to everything I've learned to do, and always messes up when I try to make it work with the old techniques. Thoughts, folks? Thank you, Josh
  17. Hello, I fish, almost without exception, braid with a fluro leader. This is on everything from my ultralight spinning rod/reel to my heaviest baitcaster. I can't tell you what test the stuff on the baitcaster is; it's the thickest they had. I grew up on mono, and I like to try to stay with similar thickness. The braid has almost zero memory or stretch. I like that. A fluro leader has just enough stretch to absorb impact so the hook isn't torn out of a bass's mouth when it hits hard. The leader I use is the strongest stuff I can get, too, unless it's on the ultralight, in which case it's 8lbs. If a bass hits hard, the difference in weight can be necessary to keep the fluro from breaking. (I do tie on a lot lighter leader if it will effect the way the bait works.) Why the heavy line, though? Well, as others have said, to cut weeds, for starters. As well, I don't like to play fish out. I'll hook 'em and bring 'em in mad. It saves their lives. A heavy line, a strong rod, and a strong arm all help to turn 'em fast and bring 'em in. I tend to reject a lot of this newer technology, but I'm sold on super braid and on fluro. The old mono now seems to make about as much sense to me as Dacron braid on a baitcaster. Sure, it has its place, but that place is limited. Josh
  18. Hi Folks, In exploring these new baitcasting reels, I'm really trying to figure out the ratios. I know what the ratios mean; I was an auto tech for some years and built hotrods and such. I mean, what are the faster gears good for? Remember, I'm used to running an Ambassadeur 5000 with a "Power Crank Handle" and 4.7:1 gear upgrade. (I'm getting 21 or 22 inches of retrieve per turn; rough measured just now with a tape measure.) The reel I use now is an older 5000, but the gears are out of Dad's 5000. I had to replace the frame on Dad's and bought an earlier 5000 because I liked its looks a bit better. Anyway... Out on the water I'm trying to figure out why I need the faster reels in my little collection, and why I like the 5000 so much. I really think it's because of the gears. That, and the centri brakes, but mostly the gearing. When I fish crankbaits, some of the one I have are big enough and dive deep enough that they bend the rod like a fish is on. The ones that are supposed to hit bottom do. I've never had a case of not being able to easily crank fast enough. Likewise, spinnerbaits will lay over on their sides if cranked too fast, and that's easily achievable with the 4.7:1 ratio. Fishing plastic worms is not a challenge with the 4.7:1 ratio, but I have to make myself slow down with faster gears. I'm starting to question the need for faster gears. I have some reels that will really burn baits, but most of what I fish is done slow or medium-fast and well within the capabilities of the 5000. An added benefit is that I can turn the bass faster and just crank it in. I don't like to play them too long because I've seen fish killed that way. I'm not sure I'd be happy with the original 3.8:1 gears, but I'm really finding limited use for anything faster than around 6:1. What am I missing in the world of modern bass fishing? Josh
  19. Thanks, guys! Kicker, why can't it be made? Tom Mann had a series of lures called Kangaroo that had a pouch in which one could place scents, air pockets made for the purpose, etc. Josh
  20. ... and I don't know if they make it. I've been looking all over the internet as well as a couple stores. What I'm wanting is a fairly large (5-8") soft plastic swimbait that looks like a bass or bluegill. I further need it to have a sealed air chamber about midway down its body at the top of the hump. I need it to suspend between one and three feet. These would preferably be disposable like plastic worms. Any such critter made? Thanks, Josh
  21. Hi Guys, That buffalo fish is what it was! In looking around on the 'net, it appears they're good to eat! Had I known, I'd have kept it. They're not supposed to strike artificial lures, but then again neither are carp and quillback. Looks like there's something about a disease called Haff Disease related to their ingestion, though..? The Indiana record is 53 lbs 4 oz. (The DNR mistakenly lists it as 53.9oz!) This is the only time a fish has made a run against that pole/reel setup and made the drag run like that. I had to replace the drag washers after that. It's also the only time I had to work a drag while fighting a fish. That large star adjuster came in pretty handy! Regards, Josh
  22. How do I identify one? I see one on that auction site that says Orra S30. Is it a different number after the S? Thanks! Josh
  23. I disagree. The game cam is a very good thing to use to catch the night prowlers that are probably wreaking the havoc. If you don't catch anything on the digital camera and/or the noises shift to elsewhere, then you have more evidence in the lack of captured images. You then switch tactics. Josh
  24. The game cam is an excellent idea. You can also set up a webcam and use IR light for illumination. IR can be picked up by most digital cameras. Keep a loaded rifle, but only for protection. If there's no reason to kill whatever it is, don't. If there is, you'll know it. Treat it like a charging grizzly. I'd recommend a .300 Magnum at minimum and open, express-style sights with a heavy solid flat point or heavy soft point. The roof vantage point is an excellent idea. Unusual things I've seen? No Sasquatch, but I heard funny noises out by the creek some years back. I went and took pictures of the tacks the next day and asked others to check them, too. The picture was of hyena tracks in northern Indiana. I've not seen them before or since. Josh

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