Josh Smith

Raul, I sent you a friend request on the strength of that post alone!

Captain, I don't know. It seems to work for me. Just a little bit of stretch -- I saw a difference in the holes of the fishes' lips, too. The mono I use on the baitcasters is cheap stuff. It has a lot of stretch and a lot of memory. The memory isn't an issue and the stretch is why I bought it. I sort of counted on it, it being cheap and all. The fluoro I use gets used mostly on the ultralight spinning setup. Being an ultralight, the give is in the pole itself. In this instance the low stretch of the short fluoro leader and the no-stretch of the braid has helped me get hook sets I previously thought were not possible with ultralight tackle. At least, when running UL mono, I never got consistent hook sets with some of this sort of fishing I've been doing. Back when I was learning to fish, from early childhood (2? 3? I can't remember my first fishing trip where I held a rod) to right before I left for college at 20 (took a couple years off to save more money), everyone was using baitcasters and MH or H rods in either fiberglass or, later, graphite... and what a joyous time that was when those graphite rods became affordable to the average bass angler! I was pretty out of the loop for the next 15 years. Oh, that's not to say I didn't go fishing occasionally, but I didn't really invest the time in learning anything new. I opened a business and as the business has grown, I've had to make myself get away, else I would be working constantly. Around the house was no good as the computer was always in range. Fishing seemed natural. When I left the active learning phase in 1998, Spiderwire was something like $50 per spool. It wasn't anything a teenager could easily afford. I did buy a Daiwa spinnerbait rod "by Bill Dance", and it remains my favorite. It's a pistol grip, and why these types fell out of favor sometime in the interim is a mystery to me. I can cast it just as far as my 6'6 and 7' rods, and it's a lot handier, sort of like a long rifle vs a carbine. Short poles work like a catapult while the long ones, from the method I've seen and subsequently used to cast them, work like a trebuchet. Better or not, overall, I can't say. For me, I prefer the under 6' rods more. I can't figure out the fatigue thing. In all fairness, I remember my tendons aching in my casting arm when I was a teenager getting used to the baitcaster after a day on the lake with Dad. It could be that my arm is just used to that type of rod now. I don't know. What's all this got to do with anything? When I ran out of good mono, the rest either used or having weakened, I went to buy more. I noticed the price of braid had come down to 1/5 of what it was when I got distracted from fishing, and so I bought some to try it. That's when I found these boards. I was on about every gun board known to man, and I figured there had to be fishing boards out there. The first one I found was Fish Sniffer. I've not been there for quite a while, but I went there specifically looking for ways to fish this braided stuff. You see, braid had every quality I've ever wanted in fishing line, except for visibility. The stuff is just too easy to see! I learned knots for splicing line. I'd never had use for those before. I tried the blood knot but it didn't run through the guides as well as I wanted, what with the line and leader being slightly offset from each other. I learned the Albright knot and the Seagur knot. The Albright is prettier and works well, but the tag end facing the leads is the mono, and it snags the guides just a little. It's irritating. The Seagur knot is easier to tie, is more compact, and the loud mono tag end faces backwards. It works well for me. Now, for shock absorption, I use one of a couple methods: Dad's old tournament-grade rod (Lew's Speed Stick, Made in Japan) from the '70s, is an excellent fiberglass rod. I'm playing with it as a crankbait rod, and it seems to work well. I can run straight braid or a short mono leader on it and still be pretty certain of not ripping the hook out on a hook set. When I run a leader on the baitcasting setups, and depending on the intended purpose of the leader, I make it either as long as the rod, or twice as long. This gives the shock absorption of which I'm speaking. If I'm just trying not to spook fish, the leader is only two or three feet long. There is little shock absorption there, I agree, and probably little reason to have it. I'm usually cutting grass and weeds and don't want stretch when I'm fishing like this. Josh

I use an ultralight rig with the lightest braid and fluorocarbon leader I can find. With the drag set correctly, it works fine. Josh

Hello, Anymore, these days, I just use braid on everything. I change the leaders as the need arises. I usually use fluorocarbon leaders, but sometimes use regular mono as well. Mono stretches, and it has that added benefit of shock absorption. I finally managed to lose a bass because I didn't have enough stretch. I was using a medium-heavy rod, set the hook fast, pulled the lure out of its mouth. Until this happened, I thought others were a bit nutty for suggesting this, but sure enough... That shock absorption of the mono is as critical as the increased sensitivity and strength of the braid. Regards, Josh

Hi Folks, So got to reading some things which were suggested to me when I posted questions after first coming here. It turns out that "super tuning" is what I've just always done to reels. There are new(er) lubes and ideas out there, but the basic polish points are the same. After experimentation, I've found I prefer 0w-30 Mobile 1 on bearings and high-speed bushings, and lanolin on the teeth of gears that don't move during free-spool. Lanolin is also an excellent protectorant as wells as lubricant, and it's used on the sideplate mating surfaces. Fluid Film is a lanolin spray, and it's used on the internals that are not gears. The whole lanolin thing comes from extensive use of it on firearms. The stuff just works. I recently acquired an older Ambassadeur 5000 from eBay. The price was right and it was lightly used. After ordering new bushings that it really didn't need, I set to do the "super tune" thing to it. However, prior to this, I ran a test to see how far I could cast with a rod and 1/2oz weight. It came in at 30 yards pretty consistently. After "super tuning" I'm getting about 35-40 yards. I can't seem to get much further than that, but that distance requires almost no effort whereas before, it did. The spool rides on a film of oil like car bearings. I installed spool bearings on another 5000 I have. It's mounted on a longer, newer pole that can be cast two-handed. Curiously, I make about the same distance as with the bushing-equipped model. This one is mounted on a medium-weight 6'6 Jupiter rod. Same 1/2oz weight. Both outdistance the Quantum I bought. Likewise, it's "super tuned" but has magnets instead of centrifugal brakes. It makes just about as far as the bearing-equipped 5000. The weight is the same, of course, and the rod is the same but is the heavy version and 7' long. (I bought this Quantum because it was made in Korea. Another thread asked about the quality of Korean-made reels, and though there's a bit more plastic in this one than I'd like, I'm pretty impressed. There are a couple internals that I believe could have been better made, but overall it's an excellent reel.) I do believe the next thing I'll be doing is swapping the worm gear bushings for bearings in the Abu 5000 reels, and a recently-traded-for 5000c. I should be able to also replace the shaft bushing with a bearing. It will require some opening up of the opening, but I think I can just make it fit. The biggest issue with playing with these is figuring out what components swap. For example, the old 'fast' pinion gear is no longer made. An upgrade to 5500c gears now requires a 5500c spool, which in turn requires bearings. This is why I eventually ended up building the 5000 I wanted to upgrade with new gears into a 5500c (for all purposes, anyway). These are just late-night thoughts I'm writing to unwind from a hard day. Maybe what I've found out so far will help someone. Goodnight folks. Regards, Josh

Replacing (or at least checking thoroughly) the pawl and worm gear is one of the first things I do after acquiring a new reel. Delaware Tackle's quote seems extremely fair to me. Regards, Josh

I'm old fashioned, I guess. I'm 36, love Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 5000 and 5500 reels, and shoot an Oregon bow. (Oregon Bow Company eventually became BowTech, but how they got there is quite the interesting read. Scandal, airplane crashes, etc.) I don't trust mechanical broadheads. I won't shoot them. I was an auto tech, professional security (owned the thing; carried a gun), a CNA, and am a gunsmith. In my experience, the more complicated something is, the more likely it is to go sour or not work. This is true for engines, tense situations, peoples' bodies, and firearms. I will continue using fixed blades. Regards, Josh

This, but with a caveat. I'm in North Central Indiana. I just got back in from a much-needed fishing trip. There was a massive cold front due to this weird weather pattern, and fishing should be pretty much shut down with bass suspended. I wanted to run an experiment though. Deep and suspending lures weren't doing jack. I went shallow and started catching 'em. OK, two, and I didn't try the traditional beds in this lake. I've not caught much of anything over there since the spawn. But they are shallow when they should be deep, and every bass critter was hitting the Mann's Jelly Worms I was using, and the fry were doing their level best to take down a Money Minnow I threw out there to challenge any territorial bass big enough to eat the thing. They were also hitting spinnerbaits. The bigger bass I caught, a male about 2lbs and a female that was 3lbs or 4lbs, were quite aggressive and seemed to be actively feeding. The ol' girl took my medium-heavy Daiwa 5'6" spinnerbait rod and bent it much more than usual, trying to get down into cover. (I was rather proud of myself on that last one. Mr. Mann claimed to have made bass jump into his boat. I tried this to get it on the bank, and sure 'nuff, dang ol' bass helped me out!) I probably could have caught a few more, but I was doing some experimentation. But anyway, everything I know and all my experience tells me that these bass critters shouldn't have been there, but they were. I caught them the exact same way I do during the spawn. It's the only thing that worked. I looked at their tails and they showed no evidence of bedding, though. Bass critters are weird. I think that's why I like 'em. They're weird and unpredictable. That's why I like wimmins, after all! Josh

Hi Folks, I'm wondering if you all use snaps or snap swivels, and if so, when? Are there lures with which you'll not use them? I used to use them exclusively but started tying directly after switching to braid with fluro leaders. I have been thinking about resuming their use on a limited basis with certain lure types. Thank you, Josh

I prefer casting for medium heavy and heavy. For medium, I am trying to decide if I like casting. I am not used to the reel (Black Max 2). I'll let you all know next thread on this subject. For ultralight, I like a very small spinning setup that will literally cast flies a few feet. For medium light, I suspect I would prefer spinning, but I have no medium light rig. I have an urge to go down to the gun forum and start a 9mm vs .45acp discussion for some odd reason... Josh Sent from the Ancient Blackberry

I use Berkely, Spiderwire, and the like. My vision isn't good enough to take advantage of better lenses. Josh

I too don't use backing. I like about 1/16" of the spool to be exposed. If you backlash at all, take to to 1/8" but no more. On some reels 1/8" is pushing it. Josh

It really depends. I would prefer to stay out all day, and have, but when I take my boy or the fish aren't biting, I tend to come in after two or three hours. I need to take a mini-vacation and use the time the fish aren't biting to throw out some live bait and cook up some food; just stay out all day like that. Josh

I really like 1/2 and even 1oz. That said, I'm having trouble finding heavier lures these days. I've been having to get used from eBay and rebuild 'em. Josh

I find shaking the hell out of a Texas rig using an ultralight rod really gets bass going. Watching the rig on the bottom I can see why, too. Bloody thing looks alive. But yes, there are times I'll go with a slow, steady retrieve. Josh

BlackMax135, I'm a business owner. If I may: 1. Have an online presence as well as a brick and mortar shop. I only have the online presence; any local business comes to me or I go to them. Demonstrating products at a gun range or at a local pond is an excellent way to build rep. Writing articles is another. I picked up a lot in Think Like A Fish by Tom Mann. 2. Carry products that appeal to all price ranges and skill levels. Were I to carry lures, I might even consider ordering some of those eBay direct-from-China lures. They're trash but might catch fish, and you can sell them for pennies or give them away. Customer loyalty is a must. In a small town, return customers are priceless. 3. Know what you're talking about but always be willing to learn. Just because you own a business does not mean you know everything. 4. Consider everything your customers tell you. Even if you don't implement it right away, keep it in your mind. You might be surprised what comes in handy. 5. If you have the ability, offer hand-made lures. Maybe even offer to build from designs. I have some sound designs that I flat don't have time to build. 6. Most small businesses fail the first year. If you make it after that, you'll probably keep it. 7. Never be afraid to evolve. 8. You really need to read Tom Mann's book. 9. Consider a few business classes at your community college. 10. Get your LLC. Very important when dealing with all things explosive, pointy, or likely to be handled by a person who drinks beer. Were I to open a tackle shop, I think I'd do it with the simple stuff first, meaning jigs and worms and such. Do you cast bullets? If not, I would be happy to cast a few jig heads next time I cast bullets if you want to send me a few molds of the ones you want cast. Shouldn't take much lead, so I'll throw that in. I just need molds and hooks. I'll let you paint them as I flat don't have time for that. A pet peeve of mine when it comes to jig heads is the fact that they lose paint. I don't know if this has been tried, but you might play with Durakote or Cerakote gun finishes on jig heads. Don't be afraid to buy kits for assembling spinnerbaits. The more work you do yourself, the less it will cost you. Feel free to write me. PM me and I'll give you my email address. Regards, Josh

Well, guys, I never had any luck in the rain. Never tried much, but I'll do so next time it rains using some tips here. Thanks! Josh

Whoa! I missed this! Rock Island has my respect. Their (Armscor's) frames and slides are used by STI in some of their builds. My carry 1911 is a gutted and modified Rock Island. Pretty much all makers make extensive use of MIM in their base pistols, though I believe Colt is down to only three MIM parts. This is why I gut 1911s, though. I want to put guts in that I know are not MIM. The 1911 is very magazine dependent, so use seven-round GI, Checkmate, Metalform, and Wilson. There are other good ones out there, but I consider those like Chip McCormick and the like to be second to the ones I listed. I do have examples from most magazine makers out there, and the only designs I have personally found to be 100% reliable are the Wilson #47 7-round and the GI-style that retain the dimpled follower. Regards, Josh

So Cokely, You're 14? What have your parents said? Josh

Hello, I wasn't sure if those were the actual serial numbers on Abu's website, or if they were dates/serial numbers indicative of changes in the model. The bearings will work, but I'll have to fit them. I went all over that reel with a dial calipers. I actually have two. The one that will be worked on will become a bearing model, while the other will retain is bushings. I love the feel of casting with the spool riding on a fluid film like oil between an engine's crankshaft and rod bearings. On the other hand, I really like the feel of bearings when reeling. I have another idea that I might use down the line as far as a hybrid goes. Both reels will be 4.7:1, up from 3.6:1. I'd really like to go 5.3:1 on one of these, but I'm already getting 22IPT and the 4.7:1 fits my style. My biggest problem has been a lack of measurements. I finally found a website that posts the measurements of most parts, anyway, but not the diameters of the ring and pinion sets. I have an idea about that, using 6000 gears. I doubt I'll have the room but I might just make it. I got doing what I do for a living because I'm part mad scientist. These two reels I'll keep, but I do think I'll modify others to help folks start fishing. For example, I won an Abu Garcia 3000 from eBay. I went through it and cleaned it up. It's a cheaper version of the 5000 with a few expedient design changes, looks like, but besides faded plastic sideplates it's a solid reel. It might be one to modify a bit to help a new fisherman. I'm just sort of putting my ideas down here. I do appreciate your response. Regards, Josh

Hi Folks, I can replace the bearings in the '60s and '75 Ambassadeur 5000s I have. I only need to grab a couple spools and turn the axles down, which is not a big deal at all, and fit Black Max bearings. The measurements needed are 10mm in diameter and 4mm in thickness. I end up in trouble with the axle diameter as it's right at 3.15mm. Anyway, I was looking at spare parts, here: http://www.ereplacementparts.com/search_result.php?q=ambassadeur%205000 See all those numbers in parentheses? Are those foot dates/serial numbers in which there was a change? That's my guess but I'd like to be sure. Thanks! Josh

Now guys, let's not go jumping to conclusions. While I'm not saying it's not bored teenagers, let's exhaust the Yeti angle before we get crazy about the whole thing. Josh

That's the thing though, Maxximus, there needs to be some middle ground there. I'm sitting here looking at an Omega One box. I got it from Grandpa. If I recall, the Zebco 33 was in it. The Omega One went to a cousin. Those old Made in USA Zebcos were nice middle ground. Now, if they'd do that on an older Quantum design like the 1310, I think it would make a lot of folks happy. The 1310 has a lot going for it, including simplicity, and I think would appeal to a lot of beginners. Regards, Josh

Huh?

Do you have a picture of the knob and reel handle? Josh