Josh Smith

I agree, and I believe I'm getting it. In fact, my 5600 has the Magtrax braking system, and I have no problems with that reel. I just don't use it as much because it's a heavier setup than I usually need (but when I do need it, I NEED it!) I still prefer centri brakes. I've always let my thumb hover and braked that way. I can see an advantage when casting into the wind, say, or when it's dark, as was mentioned. Now I'm all curious about a dual braking system. I'm a control freak to the point that I'd not want any brakes except a split second of centrifugals right after the casting swing, but having the magnetics could be interesting. Not have to hurry the thumb braking when I hear the splash, which may not come with certain lures or if I'm fishing a suburban setting or whatever. Thanks all, Josh

So some of you have seen me bemoaning the reel I want to love, the Black Max 2. You've seen me unable to get used to the magnetic brakes as I was raised on centri's. I was playing with it the other day and it seemed to me that the magnetic brake works more toward the end of the cast, right where I don't need it. I've never had problems with the end of the cast. Dad always told me to thumb the spool so I didn't backlash, and I always have. I broke out Grandpa's Bronson Fleetwing. No freespool and no brakes on that one, just tension. The Ambassadeur 5000 brakes where I need it to, right at the beginning of the cast. It's spoiled me. I cast it and hover my thumb above the spinning spool. If the line begins to feel loose, I lower my thumb a bit. I seem to remember that taking some practice, but now I really enjoy feeling the line ride out. Sometimes I'll intentionally aim so as to cast past a spot I want to fish and stop the spool dead so the lure drops into the water with a splash. Heavy lures and spinners work well for this. ("Oops! Something died and is fluttering to the bottom! I better eat it!") I got to thinking about how I work the Fleetwing. I work it similar to the Ambassadeur, but take into account its lack of brakes. I turned the Black Max's mag brakes OFF, adjusted the tension, and cast a few times. That thing felt just like Grandpa's Fleetwing, but was quieter. Now I'm really not sure what I'm supposed to do with the breaks on that Black Max, though. Like I said, I don't need them at the end of the cast. They're a handicap there because I do everything with my thumb and always will. What I need is something to save me from backlashes at the beginning of the cast for that split second it takes to get my thumb feeling the spool. That means increase the tension. From what I'm reading, there are reels out there that have both magnetic and centri brakes. Why??? The baitcaster, I thought, was supposed to be controlled with the thumb. It's looking like the dual braking systems are designed to take the place of thumb control. Is this correct? I'm 36. Is that considered old among modern fishermen? The equipment around today just seems foreign to everything I've learned to do, and always messes up when I try to make it work with the old techniques. Thoughts, folks? Thank you, Josh

Hello, I fish, almost without exception, braid with a fluro leader. This is on everything from my ultralight spinning rod/reel to my heaviest baitcaster. I can't tell you what test the stuff on the baitcaster is; it's the thickest they had. I grew up on mono, and I like to try to stay with similar thickness. The braid has almost zero memory or stretch. I like that. A fluro leader has just enough stretch to absorb impact so the hook isn't torn out of a bass's mouth when it hits hard. The leader I use is the strongest stuff I can get, too, unless it's on the ultralight, in which case it's 8lbs. If a bass hits hard, the difference in weight can be necessary to keep the fluro from breaking. (I do tie on a lot lighter leader if it will effect the way the bait works.) Why the heavy line, though? Well, as others have said, to cut weeds, for starters. As well, I don't like to play fish out. I'll hook 'em and bring 'em in mad. It saves their lives. A heavy line, a strong rod, and a strong arm all help to turn 'em fast and bring 'em in. I tend to reject a lot of this newer technology, but I'm sold on super braid and on fluro. The old mono now seems to make about as much sense to me as Dacron braid on a baitcaster. Sure, it has its place, but that place is limited. Josh

Hi Folks, In exploring these new baitcasting reels, I'm really trying to figure out the ratios. I know what the ratios mean; I was an auto tech for some years and built hotrods and such. I mean, what are the faster gears good for? Remember, I'm used to running an Ambassadeur 5000 with a "Power Crank Handle" and 4.7:1 gear upgrade. (I'm getting 21 or 22 inches of retrieve per turn; rough measured just now with a tape measure.) The reel I use now is an older 5000, but the gears are out of Dad's 5000. I had to replace the frame on Dad's and bought an earlier 5000 because I liked its looks a bit better. Anyway... Out on the water I'm trying to figure out why I need the faster reels in my little collection, and why I like the 5000 so much. I really think it's because of the gears. That, and the centri brakes, but mostly the gearing. When I fish crankbaits, some of the one I have are big enough and dive deep enough that they bend the rod like a fish is on. The ones that are supposed to hit bottom do. I've never had a case of not being able to easily crank fast enough. Likewise, spinnerbaits will lay over on their sides if cranked too fast, and that's easily achievable with the 4.7:1 ratio. Fishing plastic worms is not a challenge with the 4.7:1 ratio, but I have to make myself slow down with faster gears. I'm starting to question the need for faster gears. I have some reels that will really burn baits, but most of what I fish is done slow or medium-fast and well within the capabilities of the 5000. An added benefit is that I can turn the bass faster and just crank it in. I don't like to play them too long because I've seen fish killed that way. I'm not sure I'd be happy with the original 3.8:1 gears, but I'm really finding limited use for anything faster than around 6:1. What am I missing in the world of modern bass fishing? Josh

Thanks, guys! Kicker, why can't it be made? Tom Mann had a series of lures called Kangaroo that had a pouch in which one could place scents, air pockets made for the purpose, etc. Josh

... and I don't know if they make it. I've been looking all over the internet as well as a couple stores. What I'm wanting is a fairly large (5-8") soft plastic swimbait that looks like a bass or bluegill. I further need it to have a sealed air chamber about midway down its body at the top of the hump. I need it to suspend between one and three feet. These would preferably be disposable like plastic worms. Any such critter made? Thanks, Josh

Hi Guys, That buffalo fish is what it was! In looking around on the 'net, it appears they're good to eat! Had I known, I'd have kept it. They're not supposed to strike artificial lures, but then again neither are carp and quillback. Looks like there's something about a disease called Haff Disease related to their ingestion, though..? The Indiana record is 53 lbs 4 oz. (The DNR mistakenly lists it as 53.9oz!) This is the only time a fish has made a run against that pole/reel setup and made the drag run like that. I had to replace the drag washers after that. It's also the only time I had to work a drag while fighting a fish. That large star adjuster came in pretty handy! Regards, Josh

Wright and McGill?

How do I identify one? I see one on that auction site that says Orra S30. Is it a different number after the S? Thanks! Josh

I disagree. The game cam is a very good thing to use to catch the night prowlers that are probably wreaking the havoc. If you don't catch anything on the digital camera and/or the noises shift to elsewhere, then you have more evidence in the lack of captured images. You then switch tactics. Josh

The game cam is an excellent idea. You can also set up a webcam and use IR light for illumination. IR can be picked up by most digital cameras. Keep a loaded rifle, but only for protection. If there's no reason to kill whatever it is, don't. If there is, you'll know it. Treat it like a charging grizzly. I'd recommend a .300 Magnum at minimum and open, express-style sights with a heavy solid flat point or heavy soft point. The roof vantage point is an excellent idea. Unusual things I've seen? No Sasquatch, but I heard funny noises out by the creek some years back. I went and took pictures of the tacks the next day and asked others to check them, too. The picture was of hyena tracks in northern Indiana. I've not seen them before or since. Josh

Hi Folks, I'm really not digging this Black Max. I like it well enough, but its magnetic braking system is something I just can't get used to. I find this strange because I have a 5600 MagTrax that I like just fine. Is there another reel, same style and operation as the Black Max, that has centrifugal instead of magnetic braking? Thank you, Josh

Hi All, I was fishing the Mississinewa Spillway a few years ago after they'd opened the gates about halfway. Trying for bass, I probing structure around a bridge a little ways down. Something kept hitting the ancient inline spinnerbait Grandpa had left me. It would just tap the lure. I thought it was debris or current; Dad (who was with me) thought the same thing. I was on a 4.7:1 Ambassadeur 5000 with "speed handle" and a MH/F rod, so I figured screw it and next time I felt the bump, I set the hook. That was the only time I've ever seen that that draw work. Whatever was on was stripping the spool! I managed to turn the fish, and started into a fight that I've not experienced before or since. Initially, I was almost dragged into the water. (That spillway has steep sides and very little footing room.) I grabbed the pole's handle with both hands and brought line in whenever I felt that fish turn. The water was warm, and that fish was fighting. The spillway was lined with fishermen, and all stopped to watch after five minutes had passed. I looked over at Dad once; he was sitting there on the rocks laughing it up. I only said two things to him. Initially, when I thought I was going to go into the river (fast undertow!) I yelled at him that I might need his help, then I regained my footing and concentrated on the fight. When the fight was nearing the 10 minute mark, I could feel whatever was on the end of the line tiring out. I told Dad I was going to land it and I was going to need to come over to where he was. I had been casting from a cement shelf, but he had chosen the part that ran right down into the water. As I started walking over that way, a HUGE fish came to the surface and rolled. I thought it was a huge carp, but it was colored like a freshwater sturgeon. I landed it, and it was easily three feet long and looked to me like a carp. I could not lift it myself, and it fought so hard that I decided it had earned a quick release to recoup, whatever it was. It had bent a very stout hook on a very stout spinnerbait. An old fisherman who meandered over identified it as a quillback. I've since looked up quillbacks on the Internet and either it was far-and-away a national record, or it wasn't a quillback. According to everything I've read, the record for one of these in MO, anyway, is 6lbs 10oz. I can easily lift 6lbs 10oz with that rod. So, I don't know what it was for sure. I know it was three or four feet long, bent a very strong hook, and took about 20 minutes total to land. Josh

Bank fishing, I take 1. Ultralight spinning, 4'6" (I think) with the smallest reel I could find, which happened to be a Pflueger. 2. Daiwa MH "Bill Dance Spinnerbait Rod" 5'6" with modified Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 5000 3. Lightning Rod, 7', with 5400 (I think) MagTrax or whatever they call it. Sometimes coming with me are 1. Medium-action 6'6" Jupiter Rod with Abu Garcia Black Max. Still unsure about the Black Max. The magnetic brake on the 5400 works well but the Black Max just doesn't seem balanced right for it. A centrifugal brake would work much better, I think. Anyone know if there's a version of the Black Max with centrifugal braking? 2. Fiberglass tournament rod from the 1970s, made in Japan, with a Quantum 1310. I ordered some really deep divers and will be exploring bottoms with them until I get the boat and sonar going. 3. Occasionally, a fly rod. Never caught anything on a fly rod and just finished fixing up Grandpa's old one. I have seen exactly ZERO other fly fishermen around here on the lakes, and I am always looking for something the fish haven't seen yet. I've tied some flies, got decent, and think that maybe they might catch something. I've also taken rods with Grandpa's old reels out, like the pre-freespool baitcaster, for example. I've not fished with his ancient Zebco 33 in a while, but I gave it to Mom as it was her Dad's. It depends on your goal, really. Anymore, catching fish is secondary to me getting away for a while. Josh

You're right; it's 4.7:1. Dad may have misremembered or I may have misheard. The other one I bought from eBay looks like it may have been upgraded too, so that's a good thing. I'm off to try to find faster gears, though! Regards, Josh

Two words: Eye bleach.

I was using Google Picture Search. I typed in "Bass Masters" but my finger didn't hit the "B" hard enough. My eyes... they burn.

Man, I'm the opposite. I went from a Lyman turret to a single-stage Rockchucker. It appeals to my OCD. Josh

Thanks folks. I grew up with Dad having a lot of Japanese business friends/associates. One, Mosaki, was pretty cool, spoke pretting decent English, and didn't mind sparring with an American country boy who did martial arts as a hobby. (He also didn't mind winning, dammit!) Musashi and Marie were a bit older, but Musashi loved guns and couldn't have them in Japan. They also had us over for traditional meals. This is when I realized I love raw sea bass. Seeing the precision at which these folks did everything, I didn't figure the Japanese would release anything without perfecting it. It's a matter of honor. My next question is, are these ultralight only? I have UL, M, and MH rigs. Nothing light. These things are spendy for me, so I'm doing my research! Thanks again, Josh

Hi Folks, That's the question. Are spybaits worth buying? Even more importantly, do they do what they say? Josh

It may have been 5.3, but man, I know how fast it retrieves. Could be the spool diameter that makes up for it. I'll count the teeth next time I'm in it. Thank you, Josh

That's one thing I'm looking at. Some of the rivets are covered by swelled wood. I've been hoping that we'd get hot and dry conditions for about a week, but man, this is Indiana. I guess I'm also looking for a general idea of how to go about this. Like, does anyplace make replacement flooring? Things like that. Figuring out the way to do it isn't a problem. I just figure someone has been through this before and I can save some time. Thank you, Josh

Hi Folks, During my early teenage years my dad bought a boat called the Big Fisherman. It's a nice deep v hull with a livewell and a few other goodies. Nothing real fancy, just a good solid fishing boat that's stable in the water. Lots of good times there. Fast forward. I moved out, Dad fought cancer and won, but mostly lost interest in fishing because he's older and has bad knees. The boat was neglected. Old leaves and such accumulated, turned to soil, and nurished plants. A half-hearted attempt was made to resurrect it a few years ago, and we took it out. I noticed the carpet and wooden flooring was mushy, and it sat some more. I finally have some time to do something about it. The wood is pretty much shot. I need to tear it out. The hull is sound, as is the trolling motor. The 15hp kicker (it's only rated to 35hp, and Dad didn't want even that much) is leaking from the lower, so that will be going to my old highschool music teacher, who now has a outboard repair shop for his retirement tinkering. I need to know how to get this wood out of there. It's riveted in place. I can pull up a lot of it, but other parts present a challenge. I do not know if I'll be putting new wooden flooring down or if I'll keep it bare. I sort of think I might find a way to put plastic flooring down; something that won't rot. The boat looks like this: Stock picture from Smokercraft What's the best way to remove the wood? Just keep pulling it from the rivets as I've been doing? I've restored cars but never a boat. Tips would be helpful. Thank you, Josh

Yes, I think I'll use your guys. 0119, I'll call him, I'm a gunsmith and these reels appeal to me in the mechanical aspects. The problem is I need to talk to other folks with regard to parts, and parts names. I catalog in my mind what each thing is and does, but I don't necessarily know the names of each. Probably will by the time I'm done. I don't know about googling this Catfish1 or Castawaylakes. I myself am very busy, and have a backorder running. I've had my share of bad threads just because folks don't think I'm fast enough. I don't know if this is the case with this feller, but I will reserve judgement simply because there may be circumstances I wouldn't know about. Most folks don't know what's involved in my business and what goes on behind the scenes. There may be something going on with Ol' Catfish. Now, that said, I'm going to try your guy first because you're recommending him. A good recommendation will most likely get me to try a place. A bad thread may or may not keep me away from the target of the thread. So, your guy first because he sounds like he really knows what he's doing, then Don Lovino. Do you have Jerry's number? Thank you, Josh

Not deep. I keep prices down to pre-panic prices, and so my income is not what it could be. I just don't think it's fair to gouge folks, though. There are some I'll no longer do business with even after gunstuff prices returns to normal. Josh