Ted Kaufman

I'm from Westchester, NY, originally. And while I know of Sodom, I never fished it. But since moving to SC, I've fished a number or lakes with no weeds. I like a number of recommendations you've already had regarding baits and locations. A shaky head and dropshot are tough to beat. If the bite is really slow, don't hesitate to go smaller with 4" worms on both. Green pumpkin, motor oil, old purple and black would be my top choices. But my experiences on similar northern waters is bass love crayfish anytime they can get them. I can't tell you how many times bass in my livewell have regurgitated enough crayfish to clog my livewells. So I'd always have a rubber legged jig tied on. And if you prefer size to numbers, as I do, that'd be my first choice. Another bait I've had great success with is swinghead jig with something like an Gambler Ugly Otter. I use a heavy one, typically 3/4oz, and I fish it fast in summer. Let it hit the bottom and immediately crank it 3-5 turns, then stop. Repeat throughout the cast. Each time that heavy bait hit the bottom, it puffs up silt like a crawfish does when they kick. Very effective big bass technique.

I have several Mitchell Pro 300's and 308's. I haven't tried the 310. But based on my experience with the other models, I don't see how you could go wrong. I have had zero issues with either model I have used. And at $69, I think you'd have to spend twice that much to get a better reel (ie: Shimano Stradic).

When I fished lakes in NY and New England, one of the consistent problems we had was our livewell intakes getting jammed with regurgitated crawfish. Back in NY, and now that I live in SC, a jig and pig or plastic crawfish is probably my favorite bait. So, yes, without a doubt, North East bass eat crawfish. In fact, I believe crawfish are their preferred food, north and south, because they are easy to catch and offer the highest nutrition.

Conceptually, the double uni is thinner. But in actual fact, the Seaguar Knot goes through guides easier and is very compact. Maybe because it's shorter knot. Whatever the reason, it works.

My buddy and I took a guided float trip for smallmouth down the Umpqua River in Oregon last week. Our guide, Todd Harrington, showed me a knot taught to him years ago by a FL guide. He didn't know the name, but said it was the best knot he'd seen for joining braid to floro or mono. After trying it a dozen times the next day, I finally figured it out. It is indeed THE BEST KNOT for braid to floro. It's really easy to tie and it's compact and strong. It goes through guides with ease, too. I figured any knot that good must be popular. But had to search high and low until I found it. It's called the Seaguar Knot. Google it for a very good animation. I told Todd the next day someone claimed his knot. He said, great! Now I know what to call it! Incidentally, if any of you feel like a workout, go to Oregon and ask for Todd at the Big K ranch on the Umpqua. We caught over 200 smallies in 8 hours. Really!

@George Welcome -- Excellent post, George. Nice job of defining structure and cover. "Welcome" clarity!

@Alonerankin2 -- I'm sorry for being curt with you. The issue with the reel has irritated the hell out of me. I appreciate you trying to help.

@aavery2 -- That did it! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

That's not it. This isn't my first casting reel, It's closer to my 100th. Every now and then, I've had a reel do this. And when one does it, it does it consistently. I'm guessing it's something with the level wind or the spool alignment.

Does anyone know of a way to correct a casting reel that spool line unevenly, where the line stacks higher on one side of the spool? I don't know if it matters, but the reel is a Lews TP1SH.