FryDog62

Non paddle tail. The regular Caffeine Shad has a bubble in the tail. Between that and the belly-weighted 3/32 Twistlock Light 3/32 oz, allows it to “swim” on its own more horizontally than the traditional nose-weighted fluke/hooks that just dive vertically to the bottom. Just cast it out, let it die/swim for 3-4 seconds on semi-slack line (no tension)... give it a couple little jerks and again let it die/swim... rinse/repeat. Any color works... if I had to pick one for both large/small mouth I would pick Glacier. Otherwise for LMB I like Pearl, Bubblegum, Baby Bass and Pearl Blue. Siren is very good for SMB. Good luck!

This... I used every brand in the past, but switched to VMC Neko hook size 2 (not to be confused with 2/0) a couple years ago and I haven’t lost a fish yet. Longer shank and a sticky hook, almost always hooked in the roof of the mouth. One last thing is the line you are using... assuming it’s not just braid. If so you need at least a 3-4 foot leader of fluorocarbon/mono to provide some shock absorption. Straight braid and you could lose more fish because of lack of stretch.

We’re further behind here in Minnesota, but 2 weeks ago the carp were moving in packs all over the lake I was on. I turned on my Livescope and for about 10 seconds thought I was going to hit the mother load of all bass fishing before I realized what they were... Caught 2 small largemouth that entire morning..

You may be right on that... Although Evinrude remained 2 stroke technology and has polarizing looks, they have shown courage to be innovative and take risks (E-tec, G2 cosmetics, etc) so wouldn't be surprised to see them push the envelope with electric motors or something else.

I use 20 lb Sufix 832 and a fluorocarbon leader on the following set ups: •Daiwa Alphas SV on a MajorCraft Iovino 6’10” MXF for Ned rigging •Daiwa Steez SV TW on an NRX 7’1” MXF for wacky rigs. Skips weightless worms like a dream As mentioned above, I think having a shallower SV spool helps prevent the line digging in. Just have to make sure you pull out some line to ensure it’s not buried after catching a big fish, or more likely for me, after pulling out a big snag lol...

This just in... BRP will discontinue production of all Evinrude/Etec motors. https://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_123/evinrude-closed-52720.html

I’m not in the glass camp for Chatterbait rods. Yes, they are heavier, but just as much of a factor is the “numb” sensitivity or lack thereof. For me, I like to feel the weeds as I’m going along - that’s where the fish are. Graphite is lighter and more sensitive. I like a Moderate-Fast graphite blank, I’m currently using an iRod Stone Cold Bladed Jig rod. Like the 7’2” Daiwa Howell rod too as well at 7’2” Expride Moderate-Fast graphite rod.

I put Ezee-Step on 2 years ago... awesome for loading boat and much safer. They custom fit it for your boat. They walk you through how to measure to custom fit your boat by phone, then they make it and it shows up at your door step. Easy installation. Slick deal...

I think Dwight gave you great advice... jerkbaits over reefs are key, and yes don’t waste a lot of time with plastics til you find them. The other search baits I use in addition to a jerk bait is a bladed jig or Rippin Rap. Maybe the best thing you can do when you arrive is to drive around and check water temps in back bays, current flows, etc. You can easily find water that is 2-3 degrees warmer than the main lake and it will make all the difference in the world up there this time of year. Hardest thing to do when you first arrive is to drive around and around because you want to fish... but the initial homework to find warmer water is key.

Two great all-round lines - strong, limp, abrasion resistant, great knots and lower stretch are 6 pound Yo-Zuri Hybrid and Sufix Advance Mono. You’ll find a lot of fans of both lines here on BR.

I used the FG exclusively for a year thinking it would be the knot I would settle on indefinitely. Even though it was a bit harder to tie, I got used to it. One of the reasons I wanted to use it was because it’s smaller. Well, it is - until you tie it off with hitch knots. The hitch knots actually make it slightly larger than an Alberto knot and the hitch knots really “tick” through the guides. The only time I’ve ever had a leader knot get fouled up in micro guides was an FG. Given the larger size of the FG knot and the fact it takes longer to tie, I switched back to the Alberto knot. As long as you tie the Alberto correctly (the line must go back through the loop the SAME way it came in) it has never failed me. Plus the braid wraps around the more brittle fluorocarbon which protects it going in/out the guides each cast.

I think the first choice you have to make is graphite vs. glass. Second, fast action vs. moderate. To me, glass just feels thick, it’s heavier and lacks sensitivity - I like to feel the weeds when retrieving and rip free if necessary. Since I use graphite, I like a more forgiving action and softer tip so I use a moderate-fast action rod. I think it’s important to use a line with stretch (mono/fluoro/co-poly) when using a graphite rod... to let the rod load slowly. Braid can also tear the hook free too easily IMO if you use a fast rod, especially if the fish isn’t hooked very well. I use a graphite 7’2” MH moderate-fast iRod Stone Cold bladed jig rod, and 10 lb Sufix Advance mono (14 lb fluoro equivalent). Very happy with the set up.

That’s what I use too...

4/0, 3/32 oz Owner Twistlock Light hook, with 5 inch Caffeine Shad. Cast, let it do its dying minnow swim for 3 seconds, give it a twitch-twitch, let it do its thing for 3 seconds, rinse/repeat. Done... best smallmouth lure ever..

Phenix Feather is a heckuva rod regardless of the price and extremely sensitive, I have an MLF (drop-shot) and MHXF (Neko). I also have an NRX (Wacky/Ned) and I’m sure the Loomis purists will chuck lightning bolts at my head for saying this, but the difference in sensitivity between a Feather and an NRX is not that much... and the Phenix costs 1/3 as much.

It only works about 1 out of every 3-4 times, but if it’s a high percentage area I will throw a Ned in a different color than whatever I’ve been using previously. Moving it slowly, even soaking it. Give it about 10-15 more minutes and if they don’t bite, leave for at least and hour before coming back to try again if at all that day.

WHEELHOUSE: Caffeine Shad Chatterbait Neko Wacky Worm OUTHOUSE: Large Swimbaits (tennis elbow) Deep Diving crankbaits (see above)

I don’t have a lot of first hand knowledge... but I’m not convinced Prior is a great lake for size of fish. Don’t get me wrong, a lot of people fish it and it holds tournaments so I know there are fish. Put it this way, a friend of mine I fish with a lot lives 10 minutes from Prior and never fishes it. Don’t want to rain on your parade and maybe someone else with better first hand knowledge will chime in, but I think you’d find lakes with better quality as you go towards Shakopee, Eden Prairie, etc. I think there is a good fishing dock on Lake Susan in Chanhassen with big bass and it’s catch/release only. I don’t think they allow motorized boats, and if I had a kayak/canoe that’s where I’d go.

Here’s where I have found the Tatula Elite to shine: •Throwing lighter or less aerodynamic lures like a Buzzbait or smaller jerkbait (X-Rap XR-08). You get the extra distance without having to re-injure your tennis elbow again •Bombing a Hard-Head/Biffle Bug farther than you could ever imagine - so you can drag it along the bottom and across seemingly endless flats for Smallies. Love my SV’s for lots of other applications but they only do the above marginally compared to the Elite.

Jerkbait is great but can be tough to use around weeds. Try 4/0 Owner Twistlock Light 3/32 oz hook with a 5 inch Caffeine Shad. Works great as a jerkbait, but can also be fished anywhere including around cover, skip under docks, etc. Most versatile/used lure combo I have.

I have both, if you need to skip anything then go with the SV. Otherwise, the Elite gets an extra approx 20% in distance. Both great reels, with slightly different applications.

Full moon tomorrow boys...

I got the “Fishing and Hunting Solunar Time” app. It shows major and minor times each day as well as the day-to-day trend throughout the month. I plan on keeping some records too, including water temps, especially as I try a new lake or focus on a specific time of year so I can hopefully figure out a pattern the following year.

My 2 cents worth is to get a face mask with breathing holes. Without them you are sure to fog your sunglasses. I have the Coolibar Abacos Fishing Gaiter UPF 50+ $34.00

Sounds like a great choice - give us a review when you get a chance ?