adam lancia

Picked up yet another reel today: http://m.ebay.ca/itm/151728406729?nav=SEARCH

Say around 6 - 7 feet long, or longer than that...?

I'm not concerned, I really don't need any other reels. Want is naturally another concern. I'm sure you'll like that TD-Z, I really like mine.

Did you grab one of the ML's from that auction site? I almost moved on one of them but restrained myself... Why you ask...? I'm still not sure, I chalk it up to a moment of insanity...

At least someone at UPS didn't look at the customs declaration on the package addressed to you and decide to take the upgraded Daiwa Alphas that you found for a song...

You could try using a lock knot before you trip the tag ends of either your fluoro, braid or both.

I don't drive the boat so I have had one while on the water, two if we're out all day. I don't really get that secure feeling when the driver is pounding back drinks as if it's a Saturday night and he's got a D.D. for the boat though...

You're definitely noticing the difference in balance and sensitivity of your two hands. I'm the same way in that I couldn't even coordinate switching hands after the cast with a RH baitcaster. Since picking up a leftie I'm all sorted out. I will say that since you need to use more effort to hold a baitcaster due to the reel being on top, your ability to sense bites will decrease because of the higher muscle tension on your forearm, it dampens the hands proprioception. KayakBasser's comment of "practice" is absolutely bang on, until your forearm gets stronger allowing you to hold the rod and reel with less effort, you'll have a decreased sense of what's going on at the end of the line. No one mentioned the increase in concentration that it takes to cast a baitcaster when learning. This can also contribute to you not being able to concentrate as much on sensing bites, especially on splash down and the initial fall.

I use the Alberto for everything from 10# braid to a 6# leader to 40# braid with a 15# leader. It never lets me down.

I can't see any. Realistically, spinnerbaits and buzzbaits call for either similar or the same taper depending on your preferences.

To go along with what DVT said , with the degradation of the resin could also come internal delamination of the blank. If that were the case, you would definitely notice a decrease in power and sensitivity.

I have used braid with a long mono leader the last few seasons and I haven't noticed a decline in my hook up and keep 'em pinned ratio. Keep the line taught once you see the fish explode on the surface and then reel down while you set the hook. Since you're using braid, you won't need a swing for the fences hookset, just use enough motion to feel that you have the fish hooked. It takes a little more feel and the first few might be touch and go, but once you have the touch, you'll be golden.

Josh, did you allow the Sufix 832 to break in a bit? Once you use it for a couple of outings, the coating wears a bit and the colour goes fainter. I have found that once I get to this point, it gets very limp and smooth. I have used, and am using, Super 8 Slick and I prefer 832 to it. The biggest reason being that 832 doesn't start to fray and separate at the leader knot. S8S seems to fray at the leader knot, the leader knot itself is fine though, just the line going to the knot, say about half an inch of it. That is with 10# and 15# S8S. I have some 10# 832 that I'll be trying in comparison to see if that frays as well. I'm hoping it's not just a product of the thinness of the line being used.

That right there. Buy some Berkley Xt in your favourite test and have at it. Not only will each backlash only cost you a few dollars but the XT is stiff enough to accurately mimic FC. Might as well buy a bulk spool of line while you're at it.

If it's only the top 3 inches, just buy a new tip top and glue that on. Good as new, only 3 inches shorter. But that added shortness is offset by the fact that it's a custom rod now... ;-)

Here's a good page on swim jigs: http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=4&ved=0CD8QFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.***%2Farticles%2Fjig-catalog-swimming.shtml&ei=KcQNVeStFoeOyATY34K4DA&usg=AFQjCNHD6qI67xzfRKfWA2I6utaOyymhig&sig2=AX_LDYqmR0eM8s0Hk_-bqg&bvm=bv.88528373,d.aWwandanother one covering the majority of jig types: http://www.***/articles/jig-fishing.shtml and another on shakey jigs http://www.***/articles/shaking_jigs.shtml Edit: I'm not sure why the links aren't hyperlinking when I past them, any help there...?

Sure you have, it's called a spinnerbait

I'm doing the same thing this summer and I'll be using braid with a mono leader. I imagine a lot of guys use straight mono as well.

I need friends like that!!!

PUMP, you found a few clearance boxes at the smaller shops by the looks of things :-)

FC had better abrasion resistance than braid, however, Invisx is fairly soft FC do I don't think it's abrasion resistance is high compared to some of the stiffer/harder FC's out there. Fox the line b reak at the knot or further up the line? I'm pretty sure that FC is best for fishing around cover unless you go to 50# + braid. Either way, you need to check your line frequently in order to catch savage before it causes you to fling a lure off into the wild blue yonder.

I'll be using braid with either a mono or fluoro leader depending on whether I need a tougher line or not.

There's a ton of great info here: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/108594-jerkbait-help-advice/

But I am, I'm just a victim of his cheaper cousin, the second hand baitmonkey. I used to be a casual fisherman, until I went fishing with a friend of mine on his boat and found a few discussion boards like this and TT. Since then it's been bombs away on my wallet and Paypal account. Luckily, my wife also likes to fish so all those purchases are "for us"...

There is precious little that I purchase brand new at full retail price, especially when it comes to rods and reels.