Further North

I hear you. I'd be scared silly in one about 1/3 of the time.

I started out on that path (1800 Pro-V)...but after a few years realized that what I really wanted was more deck space to fish from and even more importantly, below deck storage for all my "stuff" and tackle. The only thing that is on deck with me these days is rigged fishing rods...and occasionally the dawg.

That's the deal, right there. Boats as big as you guys use on Erie would drive me nuts around here...plus the cost of hauling them around...which would include a much more expensive tow vehicle.

It is - I've always liked that boat. My dad had one of the originals back in the 80s.

Yeah, it can. I fish inland lakes, nowhere near the size of Erie...I don't think I'd be comfortable out there in a boat the size of mine. The biggest lake I run on is Lake of the Woods. Your boat is ~300 heavier dry than mine, your motor about another 90 lbs...that'll make a big difference. 40 gallons of gas, and the same 4 batteries...and a charger. Interesting that mine is rated for 150 and yours is rated for 140...what kind of boat?

I've never had that happen...that'd be no fun at all. What is your boat rated for, and what does it weigh? My CMV is fairly light compared to a lot of newer boats...It's about 1100 lbs empty. Dumb question: Could that be a prop problem?

Probably a good bet...funny thing it...most fishermen are on their trolling motor a lot more than their main motor. IMO, it'd be better to save $5k on the big motor (if the boat runs well without maxing it out) and put that money into the trolling motor and electronics.

You're probably right...but I see people put electric trolling motors that seriously under power their boats all the time. ...I wonder why?

My current boat is rated for 150...I run 140...it's fine....no, it's better than fine, it's great. It runs mid 40s, and sips gas. I don't care about re-sale, I'll run it until it dies, or something else happens to it. Generally, I agree with the rule of thumb to max out HP...but it's boat dependent. We don't know how it'll run with a 150 until we see some tests, or drive one. Bigger motors have two serious flaws: THey cost a lot more up front...and they eat more gas. If that boat runs well with a 150, I'd buy it. I don't need to go 60...

$35,710...I'd find a way to do that if something happened to my CMV. Not knowing what it weighs yet, I'm on the bubble about needing 200 HP.

No way i'd run a 24 volt TM on that boat...but lotsa folks think I'm nuts for running a 36 volt on a CMV 1850...but I've never been unhappy about my choice...

Craigslist...January...NW WI...$600+ Mad River virtually unused for three bills. ...got a lotta weird looks from other drivers driving home with a canoe on the roof @ -17°...

I have a Trailstar...you can run a lock through the hole for the pin on the latch for the ball

I'm in the same boat (yeah, that was intended)... I run a Johnson labeled Suzuki DF140...and while I'd love to have a Yamaha 150 back there and hit mid 50s,,,cuz...ya know...who wouldn't...mid-40s is plenty for the lakes I fish...and when the needle on my gas gauge doesn't move after a full day on the water...I'm pretty darned happy with what I've got. She'll cruise at 32-33 MPH and 4500 RPM and not use much gas at all.

I have heard $35K with a Merc 150. Purely rumor at this point, and I'm sure that's without decent electronics.

I agree - Most folks run a 70 - 80 lb thrust TM on a boat my size (Crestliner 1850)...I run a 36 volt, 101 (current 36 volt from MK at 112)...and I have never, ever...not once...been sorry I have that much power. I can always turn it down...can't turn it up after I'm at max thrust against current or wind.

The new Ulterra resolves both those issues. I don't have one yet...maybe next year.

Yup. I've run a Terrova since they came out, currently have a 101 36 volt Terrova with iPilot and Link. the electric steer took some getting used to...but once you do, it's a "set it and forget it" way of fishing. I either set it to follow a contour, set it to hold "X" distance off shore or aim it at something, set the speed and spend my time fishing instead of messing with the motor. Boat control becomes something you used to do...

$120 if the tank is empty. It's never empty. Did about 165 miles in a week in Canada for $55.00 in June.

Yup. That's what should be covered.

Just curious...how does whether you have insurance on your boat matter? If there's an accident related to your driving, it'll fall under your car insurance...and it's none of any cop's business if you don't choose to insure your boat...unless you have an accident on the water...and even then... Unless Missouri is completely different from the states around here.

Boat insurance is good for some things like you mentioned...your home owners likely covers some other things (I had a tackle box stolen out of my boat that was covered). It's worth a call.

I'd go with the non-slip in a heartbeat. Easier to clean, dries faster when it rains. Not sure which is quieter...but my sonar and trolling motor are making more noise than anything I'll drop, so I'm not sure it matters.

It looks to me like Lund has re-incarnated the Crestliner CMV with modern (better) technology. I like it, a lot...it gives me something to replace my CMV with if something bad happens. I've got lots of reasons to like aluminum over glass: Lighter, easier to tow without having to go to a full size truck (and the MPG penalty), less worry about rocks around here and Canada... I fish more than I drive around - probably on a 90, 95:1 ratio...so the whole "better ride" thing doesn't hold much water for me. Same deal for windshields...they get in my way when I'm fishing...and if I tie into something big with teeth that's going to walk me around the boat, they are even more of a PITA. I had a beautiful bruise on the bottom of my rib cage from getting yanked into a windshield frame by a mid 40s muskie on a friends boat.

Ol' Mr. Wiggly fly.