Stapsy

The MH *** is pretty stout and is perfect for any 3/8-1/2oz bottom contact stuff, though it would probably handle up to 3/4oz weights without any issue. If you went up to the Heavy I worry it would be too stiff for a 3/8 oz t-rig. The taper on the MH is pretty good. I like a rod to load up on a cast and even though the tip is x-fast it casts really easily. The advantage of an x-fast soft tip is that it quickly gets to the backbone on the hookset. If you want a true heavy action rod witha fast taper that could go from 1/4-3/4oz texas rigs or jigs I would recommend the Orochi XX Perfect Pitch. It is awesome for casting a wide range of weights and the Megabass tapers are killer for keeping fish pinned. You should be able to find a used one in your price range

The Ike mini flip is pretty unique in terms of head style and hook size. It is basically a small Arky style jig. The D&L baby advantage jig is a similar size and uses the same thin skirt material with a slightly different head shape. The downside to the D&L is I don't find the head shape rips through grass quite as well and they don't come in a 1/2 oz size. You could also try the strike king bitsy flip jigs but the skirts on them aren't nearly as nice and the head shape doesn't sit as well on the bottom. The Siebert Outdoors Dock Rocker jig head is the closest style head I have found to the Ike mini flip. Both those jigs are a little rounder than a standard arky head. The Siebert jig uses a full size hook, which I acutally think is better. The only time I would maybe want a smaller hook is if I am targeting smallmouth, If I want a smaller profile I just trim the skirt and use a smaller trailer. The effect should be pretty close for about half the cost. I would defintiely recommend trying the Dock Rocker if you like the mini flip. I also like the punch jig or bullet head swim jig around grass if you want to try a different shape. Mike offers an awesome product for a great price. I have tried a dozen different jigs and none can come close to the quality. Then you look at the price of the Siebert jigs compared to the others and it is a no brainer. It is a pity the Ike Mini Flip is so pricey. I haven't used it a ton but it is a cool little head for sure. I think you will be happy using a combination of the D&L and the Siebert Dock Rockers.

I tend to prefer a more moderate graphite rod because I find it allows the rod to load up more when casting, working the bait, and fighting fish. It is kind of a compromise because I still get the feel of graphite but I don't get as worn out by going with a slower action. There are no standards for rod naming so I just go by feel and ignore the names. I have a bunch of "fast" action rods, but they all feel totally different with a spinnerbait.

It is unlikely that many people have tried all the rods in this price range. You will mostly just get people telling you what they use. After you look into some of the suggestions come back with a couple specific rods you are interested in and you will be able to get some more detailed responses. Good luck in your search.

The fact that it is 65 lb braid shouldn't make any difference in terms of sensitive when compared to a lighter braid. As mentioned above, the only issue is being able to tie your knots. If you wanted to try it I would suggest going to 30 or 40 lb braid.

I find Assassin to be exactly as you describe, basically a flouro Defier Armillo. They both have excellent abrasion resistance and the same characteristics when tying knots. The outside of the line is softer than Sniper or Shooter so you have to be careful when cinching down a knot because it will create frays if you tighten it and try to slide it down the line. I slightly prefer Sniper because I find it has better sensitivity, though the Assassin seems smoother and coils less. Overall I would still take Shooter for ultimate sensitivity and low stretch, but Sniper, Assassin, or Defier Armillo are what I go to for moving baits depending on my requirements.

A MH 13 *** would be my choice. If you can get them on sale it is within your budget.

I have the same motor on my 1036 Jon. I actually find it to move too fast even on the slowest setting. The reverse is pretty terrible but I don't use it that often

You could try contacting one of the Japanese shops. I asked Jun from Japan Tackle if there was a shallow spool for the Conquest 100 14. He recommended a spool and special ordered it for me from Avail. I wasn't able to find that spool listed online in English so there may be more deep options out there that we would never know about.

My theory is to try out a bunch to find what you like best, then choose one weight and style and stick with it until you learn it inside out. General rule is use the weight and trailer selection to effect your rate of fall and the head style for the cover you are fishing. I decided to keep it simple and stick with 1/2 oz as my go to weight. I like the consistency in feel regardless of head shape. By using the same size I also know how my rod movements will translate to the jig. I would rather change my trailer to adjust fall rate and the 1/2oz weight allows me to keep in contact with the bottom well enough for fishing in less than 15 feet of water. There are a million variations you could try in terms of weight and trailer. Sometimes you may need to go to 3/4oz to flip in heavier grass, increase your rate of fall with a big trailer, or drag a football jig across the bottom faster than a smaller weight will allow. You could try every possible combination, but most of the time you are probably just not around the fish. My advice is to get some arky heads and some football heads in 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, then try them with a couple styles of trailers and find out what you like the best. It is more important to be confident in what you are using than to find a magic fish catching combination.

For the 4 inch the 1/0 or 2/0 and for the 6 inch fat 3/0 or 4/0. Both sizes are equally good to me. Gun to my head i would take the 1/0 and 3/0. I tend to stick with the 4/0 for 3/16oz or 1/4oz texas rigs and would size down slightly for drop shot. They are the only hooks I use unless I am want a really thick plastic. If you can wait a couple days I can take some picture for you with the roboworms.

I haven't tried the Boca but I like the ZR better than the Kattobi unless you are going pure finesse. ZRs are cheaper, quieter, and will spin for days as long as you keep them clean and lightly oiled. I found the Kattobi to be more finicky with maintenance as well so I decided to stick with ZR. Edit: sorry I assumed you meant the kattobi air, the ZR is still a Kattobi

The Metanium spool is fine for 14lb test. The stock spool is rated at 130 yards of .285mm diameter line, which is basically 12lb shooter or sniper. I have to imagine that will translate to at least 110 yards of 14lb test.

For a true all around rod I may go for one of the other XX rods mostly because the length isn't very conducive to topwater's or jerkbaits and the fast action will make you work a little bit harder for spinnerbaits/chatterbaits. The EMTF works fine with other techniques, but is probably the most bottom contact oriented of the XX rods. I have actually been using it for a combination of deep cranking, spinnerbaits, and football jigs. The length can be a little cumbersome and it isn't the lightest rod but it balances nicely with light reels and works well enough for me with techniques that need a long cast. I also don't like having a million technique specific rods for stuff that I don't use all the time so you have to make trade offs. If I had to make an honest assessment in terms of performance, the XX line I have used is 85-90% of my higher end Megabass rods. Sensitivity is slightly less for deciphering fine details (this will depend on the model), but other than that you are paying for lighter weight and better components/details (i.e bling). Considering it cost 50% what my Phase III Bearing Down did, I would say the XX rods are an excellent get your feet wet MB rod. Even though I have some higher end rods I still keep my XX rods around to fill out my lineup. I hope I don't come across as trying to sell you on it, I just wanted to share my experience. If you have any questions on the rod feel free to ask and I will do my best to answer.

I agree, most Megabass rods are not the classic "fast" action with a very pronounced tip section that goes straight into the backbone. I see those taper's as a hinge. The Megabass rods tend to lead a bit more gradually into the backbone, though I do notice the same sort of thing with my NRX rods as well. If you want a more classic "hinge" profile look at the 13 *** rods. The MH I have really fits that profile. In regards to versatility, the Megabass rods are kind of in two groups. One for primarily bottom contact that can still do moving baits, and one for primarily moving baits that can still do bottom contact. I have the Perfect Pitch and EMTF from the XX line and they are definitely bottom contact oriented. I believe the Super Orochi is more of a moving bait rod so that could explain why you felt that way. I have an X4 Black Elseil and a Evo Super Griffon that fits into the moving bait category. They could do bottom contact but it wouldn't be my primary choice. I do like the option of changing a rod to a backup technique if I find I need it. Sometimes my Perfect Pitch is frogging or punching, other times it is swimming jigs or chatterbaits. Personally I have never had a problem setting the hook with the bottom contact type rods and definitely feel the shut off point. The more gradually tapered tip helps with fighting the fish after you hook up. Another thing to consider is that even within their own ratings the Megabass rods aren't consistent. An F4 from one line can feel lighter than an F4.5 from another line. If you have a rod in mind it is best to feel it in person. If you can't there are plenty of people online who can help you out. I hope that helps a bit if you decide on a Megabass rod.

My experience has been that you can still find bass in with those smaller pike. Small pike seem to live in the shallower water through the summer while the big ones will go out deeper. Cooler water seems to make the pike a bit more active. Slowing down is good advice, though I have still lost a ton of jigs due to pike this year. At least with those little pike and hard baits they never really seem able to get the whole thing in their mouth to cut the line. Another thing you might try is searching some secondary type spots. If Pike are there I figure they will take over the number one spots in an area pushing the bass out to a spot that isn't quite as good. I can't count the number of times I have found perfect looking spots only to catch a pike instead of a bass. I will search around the area for the next best thing and often can locate some bass.

I have the casting version (same blank) and love it for 3/16 shakey heads or t-rigs. Great rod for 3/16-1/4 oz finesse jigs or swim jigs. I have used it for small top waters, jerk baits, and spybaits with no problems.

What are you looking to do with it? I haven't used the Zodias but the Megabass rods are great. The thing that continues to impress me is their versatility. You can get a sensitive jig rod and then use it to fish moving baits without an issue. The actions are great for fighting fish and keeping them pinned no matter what you are doing. It's hard to say if it's worth the price difference. I have looked at the Zodias in store, but it's hard to judge sensitivity from that. Worth is subjective but because the XX can cover so many techniques I would argue they are a pretty good value. Another rod to consider is the 13 ***. I love mine and on sale they are closer to the price of the Zodias. Also Megabass is releasing a new line soon at the ~ $199 price point called Levante. The rod specs all look pretty much the same as the XX line.

Splash Jig Arky II Noah's Arky Arky Welder

I think the Duo Realis Pencil 110 is really easy to walk. You can't go wrong with a Super Spook Jr though.

Go in with the hook point where you want the weedguard to come out, then slide the hook through the space in the middle and have it exit the tube. After that slide the head through the hole you made and poke the eye through the tube. It isn't perfect but it is the best way I have found.

I think given you are fishing open water and lighter cover you could use the 893 for 1/2oz jigs. I have done it before and I haven't had any issues. I use mine for the exact same things you are describing with 14lb shooter or sniper. I can't think of a better combo for 3/8 oz jigs or 1/4 oz t-rigs. It is right in the middle of the range you have described. If you said 3/8-1/2 oz most of the time I would consider going up to the 854 or 873, but if you want the option to go down to a 1/4 oz jig I would suggest the 3 power.

If you already have the E6X why don't you give it a try and see if it works for you? I have never fished that rod but I have been using a fast action heavy rod to fish 3/8oz swim jigs with a 5 inch swimbait trailer and it is working awesome in grass. I am sure it isn't the recommended use for the rod but it works perfectly for me.

For the techniques you listed I think the Orochi XX Extreme Mission Type F would be awesome. It isn't as sensitive as an NRX but there is definitely enough feel for me with bottom contact. It is one of those rods that is versatile enough to perform a lot of techniques really well. I have mainly been using it for swim jigs and spinnerbaits, but when I need another rod for jigs or t-rigs I have no problem picking it up. It would be a little long for topwaters but it will work if you can get used to the length. If you do ever want to upgrade your bottom contact rod to an NRX you will still be able to find use for the Orochi in your lineup because of its versatility.

The NRX line is the most sensitive rod I have used closely followed by the Megabass Phase 3. I think the question you need to ask is what do you want from your rod. Either of the above rods will allow me to easily distinguish between rock, grass, wood, soft bottom, hard bottom etc. With a less sensitive rod those things feel more similar. I use my rod to search the bottom, so being able to identify those things is important to me. It is possible that you will feel more bites with a more sensitive rod but I think the real advantage is being able to differentiate what you are fishing. You should also consider rod power relative to the weight of the lure. Too heavy of a rod or too light of a lure will make it more difficult for you to feel the lure on the retrieve. If you can give more information on the weights, worms, and type of fishing you generally do (cover, depth) it would be easier to recommend the most sensitive rod.