Angry John

I would figure head shape in combination with blade size would change depth a lot

If were talking smaller is better the alphas or core would fit in small hands well and if there not into it you still have a great reel.

Luck-e-strike DUO and lc pointers. If that does not get it done I go with a different bait

I am trying some DOA swimbaits. There cheap and look great. In s pinch I always reach for keitech but there spendy and not very durable.

This is an area that a custom might be the best. You will get the power and action you need.

I try and limit my choices so I can buy larger spools for savings. Spinning reels get 20 baitcasters 40 or 65. These should do dam near anything

Kvd bluegill squarebill or watermelon tube

How do you bend them and what does it do? Is there a mod to make them work while reeling slower

Are there different blade shapes for chatter baits. The prepackaged ones all look the same. Just studying up on spinnerbaits and wondered if there was any variation in chayterbaits other than color.

Daiwa advantage htsa or l. This is the baitcaster I learned on and I still use it for frogs.

Split rings are cheap and or just use a good clip. I like the owner clips but any will work.

I am trying some four and a halfs. Should be just right.

Zoom super hawg gets it done for me. Has all the appeal of a brush hawg but does not hang up. Middle section is wider and holds a heavy hook well. I use a 4/0 or 5/0 heavy straight shank

Two rods to chech out are the dobyns 764rm and the x series from phenix.

Locker and bass rules are what I think. The fatigue aspect is something to consider. Lake fishing might be OK but I would pass on over 7 for smaller rivers.

The amperage to charge larger batteries is higher. If there is any draw while charging it will take even longer. The correct size charger is the best answer

I think some rods have multi tapers. Just stabbing at it but I believe the magbass rods from Loomis are the reason this is discussed. St Croix is more of a single taper. Maybe someone with more building and testing experience can clarify.

I have noticed a reduction in casting distance in the cold so it does matter. I use the alphas platform about 80% of the time and have at least one on every trip. Took me a little while to figure it out. You can loosen the tension knob and make up most of the distance and still not birds nest.

I used Polly on the rod I built. Easy to work and cheap. No worry of failure or rot.

Tip is not a separate taper but something you have to figure out. The tip on a shakey head rod will be lighter than a football rod due to lure weight.

Tie a knot in the middle of a length to test for strength

17lb Berkeley xl is what I am using

I like their stick worms, tubes, and riverbug aka beavers.

Depends. A synthetic will not change. Most likely just the bottle. A refined oil will slowly break down and not be good. I cannot understand with the volume required to do a good job why people would not just buy the good stuff. Insert favorite brand.

If there was only one choice then it would be easy. There are to many conditions and techniques to be a one line show. If your into leader knots then braid does a lot but I will continue to use all the tools available because I can. Right now I use mono for top waters in very clear water and no cover. Braid will do the job but with as clear as the water is I think mono is superior in this case and I don't like leaders.