MickD

It is just a little under 1 inch in diameter. If you scale the diameter and compare that dimension to the scale that shows the length to be about 1 1/2 inches, you get a diameter of just under 1 inch. And as mentioned before, no rifling marks. I'm no expert, but it's a lot larger in diameter than .45. Unless I'm missing something.

If your rods under the seat get bounced around, then you may not want to invest in an expensive two piece rod. It will fish fine until it breaks from having hit something hard under there. as others have stated, there is little if any difference in the fishing qualities of one and two piece (or 4 piece) rods any more. Given the same materials, the lighter rod will be more sensitive, so look for small guides, especially near the tip. I doubt if anyone can sense performance differences between the rods that come both as one and two piece and have the same guides.

I don't think I have seen any mention of cork quality-if you want really good quality cork, you will pay a premium. One of the reasons so many rods are using EVA now is the cost of good cork. Also not mentioned, if I'm not mistaken, is that for blank durability, the expensive rods are usually more fragile than the cheaper rods due to the high mod graphite (lighter, more sensitive) being used on them. Exceptions are the expensive rods using nano particles in the graphite. This is reported to make the rods tougher without going heavier, but it is offered only on the really high price rods. You won't see that in your price range. One achilles heel in cheaper rods is that sometimes the manufacturers use materials like boxboard for shimming reel seasts, and often skimp on epoxy making seat to rod failures more likely. This is one area that most custom rod builders far exceed the quality of even some of the best names in the industry. But I expect that the more expensive rods will be better than the cheaper ones for this characteristic. If you plan on carrying your rods in the boat on the way to the lake, or in the back of the pickup, or banging it onto the edge of the boat, don't waste your money on an expensive rod. It could be more fragile than the cheaper one.

With micros smaller than about 5 mm the double uni knots will probably be annoying to most anglers with most line strengths that we normally use. To get the absolute smallest knot, learn the FG. It takes some time and practice, but if you want the smallest (and strongest) knot, it is the one. Some use the Alberto, but I've never been able to make it reliable-comes loose with rigorous snapping of swimbaits off the bottom. Yup, my issue, maybe not yours. What I do is use the double uni with guide and leader combos that work OK, and the FG for the others. Using straight braid is a trade-off for strength. While you don't need a line to leader knot, the knot of the braid to the lure becomes critical, and not all knots will work well with braid. The palomar is one of the best, but unless doubled, it also has problems reported. It also takes a lot of line when tying on a large lure, or one with more than one treble. Doubling it makes it about twice as hard to tie. I prefer to use a leader and the terminal knot is a piece of cake. And reliable.

Point blanks are terrific blanks-I built two 691MXF's for my son, he loves them. I built as casting rods and they are very versatile rods. I don't know if he's used them for drop shot; he usually spins for drop shot, but I see no reason why they would not work well. The XF Point Blanks all have very stout butts, so they cast about any weight and get into the butt power fast when fighting fish. Don't be limited by the 6' 9" lineup, look at the longer ones too.

For what you are doing, short range towing, just about any drop will work ok. That dimension is not nearly as important as most people think. Worst case scenario: try what works for your drive and carefully see how it works on the road. It also looks like you have the room to use the suggested angle approach to help.

The most important post on this string advocates a larger reel seat for improved ergonomics. Right on! All the rest will most likely not improve the comfort. If anyone is worried about the hand pain that comes from all day fishing a certain technique, either get a rod with a larger seat or alter yours with a "palm swell" addition. Not hard to do.

Two of the best active techniques for bass in the spring are 1. blade baits (Silver Buddy types) and 2. 5 inch swim baits on a darter head jig snapped off the bottom-experiment with the cadence to find what they want. Oh, forgot hard jerkbaits.

The rod really doesn't care what reel you use. But the techniques, lure weights, and water conditions (weeds, brush, open?) you plan to fish should direct you to the right action and power. Then buy the best you can afford, shop sales.

Through two shoulder surgeries, a knee replacement, and other knee surgeries, I've never used a special parking spot.

Keep in mind that blanks don't care whether they are built into casting or spinning rods. Any blank with the specs you want will work for either reel type.

I have a bad shoulder, can't hold the fish that far from my body. ? Obviously a very nice fish, congrats.

Yes, Mudhole.com, St Croix, and Rainshadow by Batson Enterprises all offer blanks. The one I mention, just completed, and fished once, is very nice, I think it will work both for small jigs for windy day bonefish and that now and then shot at a big barracuda. I think all the travel blanks are seven feet, 3 piece, and come usually in 3 different power ratings. The Rainshadow SB841 is different than most in that it has a truly very fast action which gives it versatility with regard to lure weight and fish size control. The SB841 is designated SB841-3, the 3 meaning 3 piece, and costs $70 + shipping. Guides and other components would come to about $150 depending on what you choose, so add about $80 for labor (at the source where I bought my blank-I'm not a "selling" rod builder), and you are under , or very close to $240. If you were to contract the outfit I mention you would pay shipping only once, on the completed rod. Delaware Valley Tackle, on this forum, is highly regarded for his custom rods, so you might, if interested, contact him for a quote. I built mine with a split cork grip, Fuji slim SIC corrosion control KLH guide system, about a 3 inch fore grip intended to support the rod if fighting a big fish, and some trim that you couldn't do for $240. The Fuji corrosion control guides can be had very reasonably with Alconite rings, and would handle salt better than anything exc titanium. I would be glad to offer any other info if you wish.

Agree, no way to make it invisible. The technique in the recommended link works very well-the rod, if done right, should fish as well as new. i fixed a shattered fly rod and the CCS numbers were the same after the repair as they were before.

For a travel rod I would not hesitate going down the technology spectrum a bit. The "best" rods are high modulus graphite which minimizes weight to get sensitivity, but in the process, usually give up some "toughness." They are more fragile, more easily damaged. Which might lead one to go lower to get more durability and a tougher, less easily damaged rod for the rigors of travel use. For your budget I think you could get a custom rod made on the very good Rainshadow RS6 blank SB841. Don't be misled by its ML power rating as it has a very fast tip and is into the backbone very quickly allowing it to handle bigger fish than one might expect based on its description. It also can cast a wide variety of lure weights very well. It's like a short (7 feet) hot shot rod.

I think you need a warranty replacement. When mine gets too low on voltage I think it just turns off, doesn't go white. Have you put a volt meter on the source battery to see what it is providing? Then probe the power wire at the Helix 10 to verify it is also correct. Might help convince Humminbird that the voltage is correct.

You didn't mention charging after fishing-did you have the battery on a charger when not fishing? You also didn't mention if it's getting charged off the motor alternator. If not, and if you are not charging in its idle time , you're right back to insufficient power. My depth finders run off the main engine circuit, and of course this is charged when running. However, on a long day of fishing without much main motor running time, it can get dicey for keeping the depth finders going and also starting the engine. So i always charge when not in use, and have a jump starter unit on board in case I run the starting batter down too far. You also can put the Helix onto a "sleep" state so it's brain is still alive, but the display is turned off so the drain on the battery when you are not using it is minimal. You can with a single push of a button have it up and running instantly.

One thing that can cause braid backlashes is if you have too much line on the reel. Wet braid tends to spin off the spool, and if too much line is on the spool it will contact the reel structure. If your problems return after fixing the fundamentals, check how close the line is to the reel cross bars and reel foot. Take an 1/8 on an inch of line (diameter of the fill) off.

Most braid baitcasters seem to prefer 40 due to better handling than the lighter tests. If lure tangling is a problem put a fairly stiff mono leader on (not FC for surface-it will sink and screw up the action of the lure unless you're using a lure that is steadily retrieved, like the Whopper Plopper or old jitterbug). I like braid for surface, but my casting rods I use for surface are pretty slow action. With a fast action, mono may be more appropriate.

Never had the issue with two different motors. But, now and then I inadvertently hit the remote button, could happen by feet hitting the foot control, and shut it down. If you're wearing the remote, put it down on the deck for a while and keep away from the foot control. You've probably already considered this, but if not, try it.

Old line? What does the end of the line look like after the break-off? InvisX is supposed to be a good line (oughta be for the price), but FC is fragile. Some little difference in your process might be the difference. Let us know when you figure it out.

I have tried them a few times, never did well. Did better with tubes and other plastics because I think I could make them do what I wanted them to do. Which was, most likely, act like a live craw. Go figure.

Oops! Sorry.

The reason some knots work for mono and FC but don't work for braid is that braid has no stretch. With mono and FC the knot can be pulled down very tight, which stretches the line keeping some tension in the line that helps keep the knot tight. Also, mono and FC will take a "set" which helps keep the knots tight. With no stretch, and the slipperyness of braid, it takes specific knots to work properly. The palomar, in my opinion, is a great braid knot. I expect the uni is too because a double uni works fine for joining FC/mono to braid. You will get a hundred opinions for and against many knots, so I suggest you try some of the knots recommended and see for yourself. But do not trust a cinch or improved cinch with braid. i don't think many will recommend them for braid. They will unravel, especially with aggressive jigging action like snapping a swim bait off the bottom. I like to have a leader on the end of my braid and I use either the double uni or the FG knot, depending on pound test. With braids below 20 and leaders below 15 the double uni will go through almost any guide cleanly. For micros I use the FG as it is the smallest, strongest, albeit hard to tie properly knot for line to line. Having a leader may be a help for stealth, although that is debatable, but it means when I retie many times I'm not cutting off expensive braid. Improved cinch IMHO is unreliable for braid, but if it works for you. . . It will unravel when subjected to aggressive jigging (with braid.)

Good plan to start at the lower end and move up with your skill. Mudhole not only has closeouts often, but they also have a good line of reasonably priced blanks. Their color series, which I believe, based on weights, is graphite and priced less than $30.