MickD

I understand your position, you have a lot more experience with tearing those rods apart than I. I do know that I've never had a structural issue with any of the rods I have made, and many are getting pretty old and well used. There is no doubt that the structural epoxy work on ALL custom rods is more trustworthy than most if not all factory rods.

OK, you've documented some crap. But to characterize a whole industry with with the word "crap" is still, in my opinion, a stretch. There have been a lot of rods from this industry that have satisfied their purchasers very well.

I have never had a factory rod fail due to the quality of the build, so would be interested in how the build quality is "crap." I know cork is not the best, guides are often less than top of the line, I've had a couple tiptops groove, but considering the price, I don't think I've been screwed. The quality of the components has not been up to what I use in my builds, but the "quality of the build" has not been deficient.

It started as a way to get the top of the line blanks without breaking the bank. It morphed into getting exactly what I want in a rod. I have developed a design feature that I use on many spinning rods that offers significant advantage in some kinds of fishing and it has yet to make it onto commercial rods. Some special types of rods are just not available commercially. Take the long ultra-light panfish spinning rod for example. You have a hard time even finding blanks to build from, impossible to find finished rods with a regular spinning grip design as opposed to crappie rod holder rods. They can be built on fly blanks and make wonderful panfish rods. With regard to cork quality, it is very difficult today to get top quality cork on commercial rods, even pretty high end ones. You can still get it as rings, although they are pretty pricey.

Nice to see someone with an open mind and who is willing to learn from their mistakes. We all have made them. The appearance of the fracture is typical of overloading the blank by high sticking, just like what most everyone else is saying. Note the difference between "high sticking" and lifting with the rod butt parallel to the water described by DVT. Makes all the difference in the world. While defective blanks usually break right away, damaged blanks can break anytime. While your practice in transporting your rods is suspect, and could damage a hi modulus rod, it does not appear to be the culprit in this case. Take a look at the following information: http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/rodusage.pdf Rodmaker Magazine had an article a few years ago which showed photos of hi modulus blanks that were intentionally failed by numerous methods, and there are distinctive features to the different causes of failure. Yours looks to me most like the overload/high sticking failure. Unfortunately that article is not available on line. You can buy back issues from the magazine site. One last comment on the pros, yes they lift fish from the water with the rod and some don't use the best techniques. But they don't have to pay for their replacement rods like we do. Their priority is to get max fishing time and it is no problem if they break a few rods.

I think that the application of epoxy to the guide wraps gives us more trouble than other areas, so I guess I'd say that. Getting a smooth, even edge, the right amount of epoxy Since epoxy application seems to give us the most trouble, I'd say finishing the wraps. Attaining the smooth, even, edge, the right amount of epoxy, finding a color preservative that works well for you. Surprisingly, some swear by a brand while others curse it. Some don't use it, and you'll need to know how to determine what the color will be without CP. Some use brushes for epoxy, others use spatulas. I'll give you tip so you can avoid a mistake that most of us have made: Use syringes every time to measure two part epoxies, exactly the same amounts of both components.

Good suggestions, also possible is too much line on the reel. If it loops up just a little during the cast it can rub against the frame "cross rods/pillars," or whatever they are called.

That makes sense. I had visions of a pile of rods rattling around.

Good advice. Also, start following this forum: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/ A great resource, look at the Library articles there, ask questions after doing your homework, and you'll get good help. But remember, we rodbuilders do not all agree on everything, and there are some of us out their that perpetuate myths like mixing unequal volumes of epoxy to get better strength that can definitely get you into trouble. After a while on the forums you'll recognize this. So do all that homework, also do an internet search for "flex coat rod building videos. " I think I was about 15 when I started with a spinning rod and a fly rod, both tubular glass. Still have them, although they cannot come close in performance to even the low priced blanks now. It's a great hobby. Won't save you any money though, because you'll just build and build and build. Even if you don't sell.

The new Rainshadow Immortals are great blanks, lots of choices below $150 for what you mention. I love the Titanium Chrome finish which goes well with just about any color thread. I've probably built a dozen rods in that finish, which was used in their RX 8 blanks. I'm building an Immortal walleye jigging rod right now.

Modern hi modulus graphite rods are much more sensitive to damage than the traditional "ugly stick." If a rod hits another at high speed it most defiinitly can be damaged. Doesn't even take repeated hits. I just cannot understand carrying rods in the bed of the truck. Even if they don't get damaged to the point of breaking, which they will sooner or later, the finish will get scarfed up. Also, other things in the bed, like your Browning over and under, could whack against them breaking guides. OK, sarcasm, I apologize. But come on, guys, these things are not broomsticks. And all the dirt blowing around back there won't help the reels. I would not let my rods whip around in the wind, have them loose in a boat while trailering, loose in boat lockers, or even loose on the deck if there is a chance of them getting jammed into a bulkhead or something like that. l broke one rod by doing the last thing, and when I started trailering a new boat which had a layout and boat lockers just like the old one, I broke two more. Tips jammed against the end of the locker. Never happened in the old boat. Things happen when you don't restrain the rods properly. A moderate tip vibration, as long as the tips can't hit each other or anything else, won't harm them.

Good points on where you will be casting, but if from a boat, if you haven't tried a 7 foot UL, you don't know what you're missing. The St Croix UL should be fine for all panfish and won't be "whippy." I use a American Tackle 7 1/2 foot 3 wt fly blank finished as a spinning rod and love it. Would like it a little faster action and that's what the St Croix would give. That St Croix blank costs about $80, so a completed rod that costs $120 on that blank is a real bargain. . . if it is what you want. With it you will cast farther, set hooks better, and in fact will have the power in open water to handle quite large fish. I've caught 20 in walleyes and 19 in largemouths on my 3 wt/UL spin.

Batson is right on. I'll just add a couple points. I've built dozens of rods and never used a power wrapper. I just upgraded to what essentially is a power wrapper base and supports without the motor/chuck. So it is possible to build great rods with homemade wrappers. If you decide to build, I recommend starting with a reasonably priced kit rather than the ultimate blank you aspire to. You will get better with every build, but will make mistakes, and better not to make the mistakes on a $150 blank. One of my first rods was built with the distance between the reel and the butt too long and I had to cut 1 1/2 inches off the butt of a St Croix SCV. Ouch! Still a great rod, but. . . Another good forum that focuses entirely on rodbuilding is http://www.rodbuilding.org/list.php?2. I suggest you get onto that forum and see what people there are talking about. It has a good search function so you can search for specifics easily. Do an internet search for "flex coat rodbuilding videos" to find some really good instructional material. Rodbuilding is very satisfying and if you enjoy it you will have found a lifetime hobby that will reward you with rods that exactly fit what you want.

When the budget is an issue I go with Bushidos from American Tackle. Most blanks 7 feet or shorter are less than $70, and they are truly high performance blanks. I have a CB68/6-12x crankbait rod that tests almost identically with a Loomis costing over twice as much (CCS data for power and action). They offer a selection of 31 different blanks so you should find what you want. PacBay Quicklines are also excellent, especially if you want fast actions. They are a beautiful glossy black and if you shop around you'll find them at very attractive prices, well below $100 for most models. When wanting to keep the bill below $100 these two lines are excellent choices.

Here is what you're after. Not sure the price will agree with your budget, but this is the type rod that makes sense based on your comments: http://www.tackledirect.com/st-croix-pfs69ulf-panfish-series-spinning-rod.html I haven't been able to find another similar rod at a lower price. They are all too short and don't give specs that look like anything other than the "whippy" UL you don't like. Or they are crappie rods designed for rod holders. The St. Croix would be a great rod , IMHO.

In my opinion you are looking at rods that are much too short. Casting distance and hook sets will improve dramatically if you get into the 7 foot range. Since you didn't mention building I assume you looking to buy completed rod. I am not familiar with the commercial offerings in completed rods, but I would be looking for a rod rated for lures starting at about 1/8 oz and line starting at about 4 # test. Since you don't like "whippy," look for moderate-fast or fast actions. Graphite, not glass. This would be an easy one to build for, but not sure that most commercial outfits appreciate the advantage of length in ultra-lights.

Sounds like you're good to go. But. . . If temps get really high tiptops might move. Most use a hot melt adhesive. If this happens, I think the temps should be lowered through better ventilation, parking in the shade, etc. I would not epoxy them on since they will be very difficult to replace if necessary later. If the temps are hot enough to move the tiptops I would be worried about the rod blanks, too.

Super flukes with about 2 feet of leader off the braid to a big (about 1 1/4 inch) barrel swivel (no need for ball bearing) then about 18-24 inches of leader to a super fluke on a #4 EWG hook. Let it sink, but often the strike will be on the fall. When on the bottom, vary from very slow to agressive twitching to find what they want. Effective all year. It is quite weedless rigged like this. I favor white, baby bass, and Arkansas shad. I know other brands work OK, but like the belly slit on the super flukes, helps me get the hook in right.

Try concentrating on very long casts. Sounds like what you're doing is OK if you can keep the fish from seeing you. Night sounds like a good idea, too. If you find a solution, let us know. Very clear waters can be really tough.

A few words of caution with braid, sounds like you're new to braid. To break off from a snag that won't loosen, do not wrap the braid around your hand. It is so thin and strong at the same time that it can cut you. Wrap it around something, like your pliers, and then pull. Pull with your rod pointing directly at the snag. Don't whack it over and over by whipping your rod against the snag-with little to no stretch you can overload a hi tech graphite rod and break it. Don't max out your drag just because you are using hi tensile strength line. Braids, some more than others, dig into the line on the spool and one thing you don't want to have to do it cut about a hundred yards of braid off a spool. It is very difficult to do, and it can happen with a dig in. I tend to set mine lighter than others and add drag with my thumb if necessary. Experiment going from light to heavy and you'll find the tension that is right on the edge of digging in.

In my opinion it is more about ergonomics than balance. With most blanks, if you balance them perfectly, the distance between the reel and the butt will be so long it gets caught on clothing. I saw your other post and you probably saw my reply that I had done the same thing. I suggest you find the optimum dimension for you (or whoever you are building for) and stick very close to that dimension. On some types of fishing where you don't have the butt pass by your elbow area you can, if you want, go longer. Like for salmon rods or heavy duty rods like musky rods, for example. For most of my rods I don't worry at all about balance, I just build as light as I can and don't worry about it. They work fine. I do not like the feel of weight added to the butt to try to balance. I know a lot of builders have different opinions.

I have had trouble getting square, accurate cuts when using hand tools, like a hacksaw. Also, I believe the carbide tipped blade like the 80 tooth, moved VERY slowly through the blank/rod/cork/reel seat/etc gives the cleanest cut with no chance of pulling out fibers. I have a "sliding vise" into which I put the work, shimming as required to get square cuts on irregular parts, and slide it through on my table saw using the cross-cut fence (or whatever the crosscut guide is called). I built a rod too long in the butt. It was a full cork grip design. When I cut it off, I just cut it off flat then glued on a piece of burl cork with epoxy, sanded it to match, then put epoxy over the top of that ring and up about 3/4 of an inch up the cork handle. A couple coats of liquid epoxy to get good buidup, hoping to gain some structure from its thickness. It was done about 10 years ago, I use the rod just about every time out, and it is still structurally sound.

I'm not sure I understand your question. All the guides are single foot guides. Wrap them all as you would any single foot guide. Micros are not wrapped differently than any other guides. What am I missing?

Do you have data on the weights? It seems to me they are pretty much equivalent, but I have no data. There's really not much mass in the tennis grips, so I would think it would be hard to find a similar product that is significantly lighter.

I've bought both new and used reels on eBay and have had no problems. I've bought only from sellers with 99% good ratings. That, IMHO, is key. There are so many ways to get a good rating on eBay that anyone who has less than that is suspect. Also, with used reels, look the photos over very carefully. You can usually tell whether a reel has been abused by a close-up photo.