stk44

It should automatically give you free shipping

I've finally realized why I haven't caught a bass over 14 inches here. I'm sure there are some big bass in here, but this is pretty demoralizing. This is the place I can get to most often and take my kayak...

Lol yeah I just bought 5 of them. What's the deal with the depth ratings on them though? Couldn't I just count these baits down no matter if they are 1/4 1/2 or 3/4?

This weekend, I fished a smaller lake. There was a cold front that moved through on Friday and I fished Saturday and Sunday. The water temps were 49 and 47 degrees respectively. I Caught one small bass on a drop shot and had a few almost no existent bites over the weekend. This morning (Sunday) I switched from a silent lipless craw colored crank in 1/2 oz to a 3/4 oz Sebile seeker (loud rattle). I had one nice bass that was super lethargic, it felt like maybe I had snag, then I would feel a little bit of varying tension. Finally the bass made it all the way to the shore and swam off. It didn't even looked hooked, it just seemed like it was following the lure and nipping at it. I'm assuming that the fire tiger color plus the loud rattle helped out in the murky water. I lost the lure about a few casts later, and I'm looking to find a replacement. I've noticed that Sebile puts a diving depth of 7-8 feet on a 3/4 oz lipless. I was under the impression that all lipless cranks could be counted down? I understand the heavier one would be, the easier to control in deeper water, but what's the deal with the "7-8ft depth"? Is there a rule of thumb for specific weights to be fished in specific depths? Thanks, Steve

There's no harm in adding that to my next TW order. Thanks!

I was looking at the same backpack when I saw your post. I'm glad you said something because I thought it looked too small. I looked at the dimensions and I bought it. Thanks!!

I looked around at Dicks Sporting Goods and tackle warehouse for a tackle bag upgrade without any success. I'm looking for something that can hold 3 standard tackle trays and hold a 12" X 9" a bait binder. It does not need extremely spacious side pockets so long as the main compartment has ample room. Please let me know if you have anything or know of anything that would fit this criteria. Thanks, Steve

I bought 4 of the Picasso round bend jigs in 3/8 and 1/2. Thanks for the heads up on these. I'll let you know how I do. You definitely know your jigs, it is most definitely a terminator pro. Thanks again, Steve

OK, I was able to research this from an earlier thread: http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/jig-heads.html It was a pretty informative video but I'm trying to figure out what type of a jig head this has: (There is also 1 rattle on this jig that you can't see from the picture.) I have a few questions: To me it looks like an arckie head jig. Is it? Would this be a vertical or horizontal line tie? Is this the best type of jig to use on grass lines or grass flats? The jig in the picture seems to be the only jig I can use fishing deeper 15-20 foot grass lines. I have a bunch of football heads and I was picking weeds off the jig head EVERY cast. Does it even matter if the jig head is clean as long as the hook, skirt, and trailer are clean? Please recommend me to some other jigs. I want to fully commit to jigs this year to make me a better jig fisherman. Thanks, Steve

Thanks. I'll give this a shot. I don't think I was overworking the fish. I went out today to try again. I had one bite on a drop shot in about 15-20 feet of water and that was it. Before you know it, they will be spawning and I'll think I'm a pro. Then I'll have some more requests for critiquing in post spawn LOL.

I went out on a small local lake for the first time this year. The water temperature was 49 degrees. I was using jerkbaits, spy baits, and jigs with no luck. It was windy and the water was a bit stained so I switched to a fire tiger shad rap (5-9 ft diver.) After about 20-30 casts I had a bass on my 6'9 ML Avid X extra fast with 8 lb flouro. I know this isn't an ideal rod for this application but I only bring 2-3 rods with me and that's all I had to throw smaller crankbaits/jerk baits. The fish was just skin hooked inside the mouth. I fought him all the way to shore, he was about 5 yards on my right side and lost my first bass of the year. What can I do better my chances of landing a barely hooked bass? Should I keep my rod vertical or swing it parallel to the water to relieve some of the pressure? Loosen my drag a descent bit more to absorb more of the shock? Thanks, Steve

Ask someone

I have some DT6's with that long "stinger" hook. I think it's just something rapala discontinued or have available that they don't push exclusively. I got that thing imbedded in the top of my thumb once....wasn't pretty.

I like P-line flouro clear. It's cheap, reliable, and it's great for crankbaits. It did get quite a bit of memory at the end of the season, but it didn't cause any problems for me on a baitcaster. Also, I only tried the 12 lb test. I know there is better out there, but if it works fine, I see no reason to start buying expensive stuff right off the bat.

Jerkbaits and jigs prespawn.

Does anyone know if Keystone lake is still iced out? Anyone had any luck ice fishing it this year? I'm not planning any ice outings so need to get alarmed, just want some info. Thanks, Steve

I agree with what everyone else is saying. Buy a good fishing kayak. I have used a 400 dollar Sit in kayak. The last year has really limited me and I have bought a predator mx. I haven't tried it yet... But it is a much better set-up. You don't want to be crammed in a sit in kayak with 3 rods, a fish finder and tackle bag crammed into the cockpit- YOU WILL NOT ENJOY IT. I bought my predator for around $1100. If you want, I can keep you updated on how it performs.

The problem I have is when going from say 1/4 oz cranks like a dt4 to a 3/8 oz crankbait. At least on my Revo SX, it always requires an adjustment which isn't as simple as just adjusting the magnetic brakes ( I know these are not centrifugal brakes.) And even still, it struggles to make those 1/4oz bait casts without overruns which would require me on a centrifugal system, to constantly tinker with the brakes- removing the side plate. Maybe it's just the reel that I'm using?

Have you ever lost your side plate? I just feel like that's poor design to have to remove a side plate and make adjustments on an item meant to be used in the outdoors.

I do all of this and then watch YouTube fishing videos before bed. Think about how many fish I'll catch in the spring and then wake up tired the next morning.

I am a big fan of the Revo MGX's braking system. It allows for almost limitless adjustments. I was thinking for my next reel, I would branch out a bit and try a daiwa or shimano. I was looking at the chronarch, Curado, Tatula, and zillion reels. Are these braking systems similiar? I studied them for a couple hours last night had a hard time comparing and I want a completely adjustable centrifugal brake without having to take apart the side plate and doing adjustments. The end result for me would be to put this on a medium powered rod for jerkbaits, with the capability of casting 1/4 oz hard baits with ease, and maybe even 1/8 oz.

X2 with that water intake. Sometimes every 4-5 casts I have to squeeze the lure to remove the water. Sometimes you waste a full retrieve when it fills with water.

Thanks for the article. That's pretty sweet they used it in the Amazon.

Would there be any downsides to using a reel like this for heavier baits? By this I mean would it be damaging or add extra stress on the bearings, gears, etc?

You got me lol. I meant to put "what makes a LP finesse reel"