blckshirt98

Usually Pro-Cure, since it's grounded up fish parts.

I got I believe a Yakima Sweetroll as a Black Friday/Cyber Monday Amazon deal that's been sitting in the garage. I just realized someone posted a similar thread on May 10 about transporting a kayak on a car roof. Those bar pads look like they could be helpful with getting a kayak tilted up onto the back of the Forester, then tilt up and roll onto the rack.

omfishing sinkers are the real deal. Takes a while to ship, but it's arguably the best deal around for low quantities of weights. For large quantities of weights you can always go to alibaba and negotiate a price for a bulk order. You need a minimum quantity of around 100-200 sinkers, but you can get them for well under $1 each depending on size.

Another question is how do you all deal with the extras? For example a pedal drive kayak, does the pedal drive unit easily come off the kayak to load the kayak onto the car? Ditto for trolling motors/electronic units/rudder systems/PowerPole Micros.

Gary runs the Wild West Bass Trail series, he'll know what's biting and who to contact for sure.

Is that the Wilderness Systems 120/140? I'll add that to my list of kayaks to look into. The ATAK 140 was another Kayak that had my eye, really liked the features on it.

Standing is a little important and factored in, but mostly it's the wide base even sitting down. I'm not a strong swimmer and even with a left jacket am kind of paranoid about ending in the drink from the wake of passing boaters, or, being caught in an unforeseen swell on a large reservoir or if inshore if I decide to take it to the ocean. I'll check out the video, thank you!

You people fishing the bank with ponds filled with gators are out of your f'ing minds. That is all.

I've been looking at getting a fishing kayak but I'm paranoid about tipping over so I'm looking at the heavier duty/wider ones (i.e. Jackson Kayaks Big Rig, Old Town Predator XL) but the starting weight on these things are almost 100lbs before adding on accessories. Does anyone that own a fishing kayak load theirs onto the roof of their car (on a Thule or Yakima roof rack), or do you always tow it? I don't have an issue with the 100lbs, but 100lbs spread out over the length of a bulky kayak might be awkward to handle, and having to get it on/off the roof of a car (would be a Subaru Forester) could be a chore. Was wondering if it's not as bad as it might seem or what solutions some of you use.

Palomar and uni are the two knots I use for basically everything. If you're having a tough time with tying knots with braid try using a swivel or quick snap so you only need to tie it once, and use a leader when needed.

This is where I'd be wary of rod companies trying to market rods that are nearly identical except a couple of inches of length, and putting a label on them as being for different techniques.

If you can afford the expense of tungsten, go with tungsten. If money were no object I'd go all tungsten. More compact/more dense for a better feel of the bottom. Also with lead being banned in more places, it's probably the best of the lead-alternatives. omfishingsinkers.com is the real deal, though I've gotten maybe 1-2 bad ones so far out of a batch of 100 I bought where the line clip pulled out of the weight itself when trying to work a snagged weight free. One thing about tungsten weights I've read is that the high melting point of tungsten and equipment required makes it impossible for the enthusiast to make their own weights. When buying tungsten weights you're probably buying a re-packaged/re-branded tungsten weight bought in bulk from an overseas manufacturer.

Congratulations on winning the battle, but the war still looms.

Boom, perfect, thanks!

Much respect at your ability to stick with one brand for rods and reels!

They do 10% off as an everyday discount for military, but not sure if it stacks.

Every year they usually do yes, I believe it's 15%.

I had no confidence in them when I started out but started using a squarebill more often, and if I had a choice that's probably my favorite way of fishing. Lighter rod and line for a squarebill, when a fish crushes a squarebill the rush of adrenaline is like nothing any finesse fishing can match.

Shimano Curado I or Curado K for baitcasting, Shimano Stradic HG for spinning, Phenix Feather line for rods.

Twist-Lock leaves an annoying gap, since you can't really bury the eye into the plastic, that picks up vegetation and other crud. Normal flipping hook lets you bury the hook inside the nose of the plastic bait so the bullet weight will be flush with the plastic. Much cleaner presentation going in and out.

Ask 100 people for their favorite worm and you'll probably get 100 different answers. They all catch fish so get a worm that's within your budget that looks good in size/shape that give YOU the confidence to catch fish. It looks like you're fishing farm ponds from the bank so don't start out with anything big, a 4-6" worm will be fine. The easiest technique to learn is probably a wacky rig because it's a hook and a worm. The action on a Yamamoto senko is proven, the Jackall Flick Shakes are also solid. T-rig/C-rig I'd pass those up and go right to a dropshot, any worm around 4" in length.

1) Jigs 2) Jerkbaits 3) Noisy topwaters like buzzbaits and Rage toads 4) Jigs 5) Jigs ... 100) Jigs

#8-and-up fluoro on spinning gear is where people start to see a lot of problems that can ruin their day of fishing. If you haven't used braid yet, once you start using it, especially on spinning reels, there's a good chance it'll change your life and make fishing much more enjoyable. Keep the straight fluoro on baitcasting reels but for spinning reels stick to braid or mono. I would avoid PowerPro Slick8 and Nanofil for first time braid, go with regular PowerPro or Sufix 832, #15, and use a fluoro leader. Uni-to-uni works but if you start to see breaking at the knot, don't be embarrassed to use a swivel (Size 10 Spro Power Swivel).

I got some of these a while back when I was looking for a fast clip and while really easy to use I did find these way too bulky for my preference. These clips would be my go-to for larger baits for like muskie or pike, or for saltwater applications, but for freshwater LMB I think they're too much. I used Norman Speed Clips for a while but when it's cold and my fingers are numb they can be difficult to pinch open, so now I'm using the Decoy V-Snaps, which I think are perfect.

Is the lip warped and is the bait centered correctly? I know the scrounger heads have a softer plastic lip maybe the one you're using got warped somehow, have you tried another scrounger head from the package?