Way2slow

Since I've never seen a "standard" plug that would fit anything, I would check with the dealer or many of autoparts stores "like Napa" will have a listing that will tell you the right plug to use. There are several different heat range plugs they use, it's going to depend on motor. I will say I prefer to use Champion plugs in OMC's.

Try this http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&s1=c8f6ffad-d847-46d7-ac0f-5f62fd592abf Go to the pull down, click on Johnson Go to 1974 9.90 and click on it. I think you will find you're motor there

I would clean carb before doing anything else. Most likely the mid/main is plugged. That's taking it off and making sure are orfices a clean, do even bother with trying to run anything through it.

Here's a couple, 9.9. Is Gassing Good For a Wet Battery? When a wet (flooded) Low Maintenance (Sb/Ca) battery reaches the absorption stage which is approximately 14.4 VDC at 80° F (26.7° C) or 80% State-of-Charge during a charge, it will start to gas (bubble) and is a normal part of the charging process. Gassing is the electrolysis of water into two parts Hydrogen gas and one part Oxygen gas and can be explosive. The gas bubbles given off by the plates will help to mix the electrolyte as they rise to the surface. This will help to prevent electrolyte stratification. Electrolyte stratification is acid concentration that is greater at the bottom of a battery than at the top, especially within batteries with more than 100 amp hours capacity. Normal charging should produce moderate amount of even gassing of all cells, which is good. Overcharging a battery or rapidly charging with high voltage will produce heavy gassing, heat, consume excessive quantities of water, accelerate positive grid corrosion, warp the plates, and is NOT recommended. Ventilation is required for all lead-acid batteries and good ventilation is mandatory for wet batteries to dissipate the explosive and toxic gasses produced during charging. 9.7.3. Size the charger based on the discharge amount and how fast you need to use the batteries again. Slow recharging is recommended, so chargers that are sized 10% of the capacity of wet, AGM (Ca/Ca) or Gel Cell (Ca/Ca) VRLA batteries should be used The best way to prevent sulfation is to keep a lead-acid battery fully charged because lead sulfate is not formed. This can be accomplished in three ways. Based on the battery type you are using, the best solution is to use an external charger in a well ventilated area that is capable of delivering a continuous, temperature compensated "float" charge at the battery manufacturer's recommended float or maintenance voltage for a fully charged battery. For 12-volt batteries, depending on the battery type, usually have fixed float voltages between 13.1 VDC and 13.9 VDC, measured at 80° F (26.7° C) with an accurate (.5% or better) digital voltmeter. [For a six-volt battery, measured voltages are one half of those for a 12-volt battery.] This can best be accomplished by continuously charging using a three-stage for AGM (Ca/Ca) or Gel Cell (Ca/Ca) VRLA batteries or four stage for wet (flooded) batteries, "smart" microprocessor controlled charger. If you already have a two-stage charger, then use a voltage-regulated "float" charger or battery "maintainer", set at the correct temperature compensated float voltage to "float" or maintain a fully charged battery. If you need Web addresses or telephone numbers of charger manufacturers, please see the Chargers and Float Chargers and Battery Maintainers sections of Battery Information Links List. A cheap, unregulated "trickle" or a manual two-stage charger can overcharge a battery and destroy it by drying out the electrolyte. A second method is to periodically recharge the battery when the State-of-Charge drops to 80% or below. Maintaining a high State-of-Charge tends to prevent irreversible permanent sulfation. The frequency of recharging depends on the parasitic load, temperature, battery's condition, and battery type. Lower temperatures slow down electrochemical reactions and higher temperatures will significantly increase them. A battery stored at 95° F (35° C) will self-discharge twice as fast than one stored at 77° F (25° C). Standard (Sb/Sb) batteries have a very high self-discharge rate; whereas, AGM (Ca/Ca) and Gel Cell (Ca/Ca) VRLA batteries have very low rates. Now, ya'll have a nice day.

To stratify, you only have to keep charging at too low of a rate to cause the battery to gas. It take sufficient bubles generated during the charge cycle to rising between the plates to keep the electrolite mixed. To start to sulfate, a battery has to be left below 80% for as little as 24 hours. [edit]Unnecessary and rude comments removed[/edit]

I had a 14 ft FishMaster that was an open boat with two bench seat and had somewhat of tri-hul design. I let my son take it to Texas where it seemed to have vanished. I would luv to have another. That's the most stable small boat I've ever used, even in swift water rivers. I've seen a few around, but those that I've seen have not been for sale. I bought mine new in about 1970. Replace the floor in it twice and the transome once. A 25 would easily push it along at about 32 mph. Ooops!! I just noticed you said Aluminum. Mine was fiberglass.

It should have the little pee tube for a visual indicator on the lower cover pan, but the bulk of the water is going to come out through the prop. If you're not getting water out the pee tube, make sure it's not blocked, dirt dobbers luv those ready made holes. An old motor like that, I would install a water pump anyway. That's the first thing I do that on every used motor I buy. The second thing I do is rebuild the carbs.

If I was going with AGM's, my first pick would be Deka. They are about the best built AGM's on the market. I would also go with a stacked cell any day of the week over a spiral wound. Deka also makes Bass Pro Shop's. As I've said many times before, unless you just want to give up run time for the maintenance free aspect of AGM's, a top quality flooded cell batteries will give you as much a 20% more run time. 160 minutes on an Optima versus 225 on a Trojan and you have to pay a lot more the get less run time. I think the Deka's are around 200 minutes. AGM's are great for areas that are difficult to get to to check/service a battery but that's only real advantage. The cycle count on the AGM's is not that much better than a quality flooded cell.

A motor will almost always rev when it's out of gear, there is no load. You are basicaly just using initial timing and very little carburation. The motor has to be in gear and load to tell how it realy runs. You may have fouled a plug, since you say you run a lot in no wake areas, there are just a number of things that can make a motor not run good. It will take a lot more/better info to even begin to guess.

2 amps is fine if you're charging a small lawn&garden or motor cycle battery, but it's not good for any flooded cell, battery the size you would use for cranking or TM in a boat. If you charge at two amps every time, the battery will stratify on you. 10% of the rated capacity is what's recommend most any flooded cell battery. So, if you have a 20 amphour battery, charge it at two amps, if you have a 100 amp hour battery, charge it at 10 amps.

State law or not, the law of common since says if your going to get out on a lake in an area other boats may travel, you need at least a tall white lite. If you're only going to be working around the edges and never getting into the lake itself, then you might be ok, but the first time you decide, you want to try the bank on the other side of the channel, you're playing Russian Roulette. As mentioned a lot of people with big bass boats also fish at night, me included. On my home lake that I know very well, I never use a spot lite and I when in the open channels, I commonly run 30 - 40 mph. If someone is dumb enough to be out in a small canoe or jon boat without a lite, I would hate the think what they might look like after over 2,000 pounds of bass boat went through the middle of them.

Unless you have a modified motor you're planning on turning a motor 7,000 rpm or more, I wouldn't mess with them. The only difference you're going to notice is after a few months, they won't idle as well as the factory steel reeds. They will not make anymore hp. If you don't have adjustable idle screws, you will have to rejet the cabs idle. The motor may feel a little better at idle and mid range when they are first installed but the idle get worse once the get flexed. I've tried them a couple of times in my hotrod motors and ended up doing away with them each time. Since I only turn 6,500 - 6,800 rpm, I don't need them and they are more of a pain than they are worth.

If it was a Mercury 25, depending on year, no telling who made it, you can bet it probably was not "Mercury". I don't think they make anything below 30hp. I think Tohatsu made them for a long time and still makes them, they just paint them black for Mercury and put Merc's decals on them. Even on the bigger motors, good chance Mercury didn't make the power heads. Yamaha used to build a lot of them and may still do. So, when you bragg about your merc, it's probably somebody elses motor you're bragging about.

If it was stalling from trying to seize, you would not immediately be able to pull the starter rope, you would have to wait several minutes for pistons to cool and shrink before they would be free enough to let you pull the rope again, or if electric start, before the starter can turn it over again. Sounds like a classic fuel delivery problem. Keep pumping the primer bulb by hand as you're running. If it stays running then, you may have a bad fuel pump. You could also have a needle/seat sticking and not letting enough fuel into the bowl. Also, pull the cover off and pump the primer bulb firm, then hold pressure on it and see if you see any leaks in any fuel lines. If they leak gas, they can suck air. When it dies, is the primer bulb sucked in, if so you have a restriction at the tank. May need the carbs cleaned, may need a fuel pump, may have a leak or restriction. You just have to go through the steps of elemination to isolate the problem.

I made the assumption you are using relays to control the T&T motor. If not, that's your main problem right off the bat. The T&T motor must have approx #10 wire for all positive and negative connections all the way from the battery, or the starter relay on top of the motor, to the T&T motor. The small control wires going to the switches in the handle and front of the boat are stickly control wires to Energize the relays. The up/down relays control the Large guage wires to the T&T motor needed to carry enough current to run the motor. The relays are wired so they apply battery voltage/current to the T&T in one direction and reverse the voltage/current in the other. The relays and large guage wires do all the work, the switches only tell the relays what to do.

Too much internal resistance. The wire guage is too small, bad connections and/or the relay contact tips too small. The resistance is causing too much voltage drop and slowing the motor. This will also the wiring or contacts to overheat and possibly catch on fire if run too much. Start with the common hot wire feeding the relays that run the motor and the negative. Measure the voltage across them and see how much voltage drop you have when you run the motor. Start where they connect at the battery and work your way all the way to the trim motor. Replace any wires that are dropping more than a few tenths voltage with larger wire. Chase the voltage drop and fix the problems

That is no load voltage but if you're getting that much of a drop under load, your battery/ies are probably on their last leg. Too small of a battery cable or a bad connection can also cause you to have more voltage drop under load that you should have. The best way to check that is, with a good digital meter, connect across the two lead post on the battery the TM cables are connected and see what kind of a load voltage you're getting. Then connect across the TM connector on the TM and see what the voltage is. They should be close to the same. On multi battery systems, make sure the interconnect cables are large enough and good, clean connections on them.

The volts are going to depend on the battery manufactor and the electrolite used. It's not uncommon to see 12.6 volt batteries but most modern deep cycle batteries charge to approx 2.14 volts per cell, 12.84 volts for a 12v battery (that's after letting it rest 24 hours from charging). The battery is considered 100% discharged at 1.96 volts per cell or 11.76 volts for a 12 volt battery and should never be discharge below 12 volts.

Setup play a huge role in how fast a boat is. When it comes to setup, most people don't have a clue how to, and are not willing to spend the time or money required to get one dialed in. Some hulls respond very well to being optimized, some you can bust your butt and no matter what you do, you will see hardley any difference. It's also not uncommon at all for some boaters to inflate the speeds they claim they run. I've run with several boats that claimed speeds as much a 10 mph more than mine. A couple of years ago I was showing a friend some hot spots on "my" lake for a tournament his club was having. He had a 20' Bullet with a modified 225HO and said he could run 91 with two people and gear. Yet, when we made a seven mile run, we started out almost side by side, mine came out of the hole much faster so I was a few boat lengths in front, my gps was showing 82.1 mph, when we got to the spot, I was at least a 100ft ahead of him. He said I had to have been running at least 93. I thought "Yea right"!! a Javelin Renegade 20 is going to run 90 mph. It takes over 300 hp to get the 82 out of it.

As mentioned, a 100 on a 17ft boat is not a lot. Then it depends on what year and how fresh the motor is whether you're getting the full 100. Other than a little you might get adjusting the engine height, most a set too low, you can expect to spend a couple hundred bucks (or more) for each mph you gain. Make sure you have a good, working water pressure guage before you start messing with height. The first step in optimizing a boats setup is installing a jack plate with enough setback to get the motor back the proper distance from the pad. That's usaually means getting the leading of the lower unit about 1 1/4" from the edge of the pad, for each foot of boat lenght. This sometimes means having to change steering cables and possilbly control cables The next step is finding the right, high performance, stainless steel prop. Usually the first one is not the perfect match. So, just how fast do you want to go? The answer is just how much do you want to spend.

RPM depends on the motor. OMC cross flow, 5,500 is about right. Some other motors may want to see close to 6,000. Find the max rpm rating for your motor within 100 - 200 rpm is where you want to get. Also remember, during the colder weather, you will can a couple of hundred rpm. There's a lot you can do with setup, but anything you do, other than playing with engine height, is going to cost money.

I have an 88 Stratos 176V with a 115 I-6 Merc on it I keep at the lake and it usually runs about 50 - 52 with two 220# men and gear.

I think you're trying to mix apples and oranges. If I remember right, the 87 motor has the relay control box on the side of the motor and the 74 model has the relay control box mounted in the boat. I think you're going to find on the 87 motor, those are all control wires and the trim motor wires are in a seperate connector. On the 74 motor, you are seeing trim motor wires and control wires. There are also two different trim motors, there is a two wire and a three wire motor. You will have to look at the motors and make sure one is not a two wire and one is a three wire Any time your dealing with OMC motors, The green wires are going to be the down function and the blue wires are going to be the up function. Green for grass, blue for sky. On the 87, the red/white is power to the trim switch and the switch. The green/white is the down side of the trim switch. The blue/white is the up side of the trim switch. The black/brown and white brown should go to the trim guage with the black/brown being the signal and the white/brown being the ground. If the guage works backwards, these are reversed. In the 74 motor, the larger guage wires are going to the motor, they are usually blue and green but have seen black and white. On the two wire, it's not critical if you hook them backwards, the motor will just run the opposite direction so when you trim up, it goes down. If that happens, just switch the two wires. On a three wire motor, you have to get the common, probably the red wire, right or it may only work in one direction or not at all. I think you're going to run into all kinds of problems getting these two interchanged.

If it's an inboard and only getting water when it's running, I would look at the water pump on the engine or check the hoses. Might want to check the exhaust manifolds also. They are water cooled and could have a leak in one of them, it's common for them to rust/corrode through.

Too bad you're not close to GA. I could probably make you a deal that would put a smile on your face. Since my dad died over two years ago, I haven't had my 1999 Javelin Renegade 20DC with 225 OMC (modified to approx 280hp) in the water a half dozen times and giving real consideration to selling it for about $6,500. My wife, son and granddaughter says I'm not but I'm getting tired of it sitting there. All you gotta do is learn how to drive it, it does let you learn first hand what chine walk is. It's very fast, and it will chine walk too bad to drive at WOT (well over 70 and even into 80's) until you learn how to drive.