Way2slow

Well, I guess he either didn't want or appreciate the help and information I was trying to offer so I will leave it up to him and his jack leg mechanic to get it fixed. I don't know how others feel, but I feel if an OP can't at least acknowledge the work/effort you put into trying to help them with a problem, they don't deserve it, so Mr Gostshad, good luck with your motor, I'm done. My new years resolution, anyone that can't at least offer an acknowledgement/thanks must think it's not worth it so I won't bother them with trying to provide them any more.

Not enough info. Do you need the throttle body or the plastic body. The throttle body is the metal plate with the butterflies in it the plastic carb body bolt to. If it's the throttle body, are you needing the upper or lower. The upper is for two carbs, the lower is for one. The plastic carburetor body is the same. There are numbers of them on ebay listed for your motor.

Try ebay

Since I'm not physically looking at your motor with my hands on it, I hate to say if I think the person working on it know what he's doing or not. Those carbs have adjustable idle screws and are usually not hard to adjust. Where a lot of people mess up is on the initial setting. the idle screw has to be turned all the way in and then back out about 5 1/2 turns. People that's not familiar with this have a tendency to only want to go out the standard 1 1/2 turns and it's not going to idle with that, and they can't comprehend going out 5 1/2, thinking turning it that far, there would have to be something wrong with them.

I guess I ended up double posting somehow and can't figure out how to delete this one

If you say your motor has a different carburetor than earlier models, that's news to me. I've worked on a number of HO's and rebuilt the carbs on them but never actually replaced a carb on one, but I never noticed anything different about it's carb and the 225/250 carbs from earlier models. Even according to BRP Parts catalog, the body on yours has the same part number as the body on the 1998.

That's one of those I would have to say, to each his own. How many are going to wear a hot, bulky foam vest all day. I know some will and do but not me. If the inflatable does create a problem trying to get back in, the same buckles than let you put it on will let you take it off once you're ready to get in. Plus, I've never used a boarding ladder on the back because I've always depended on the motor to lift me in, and I have jumped in with mine on, just to see how it works, and I have gotten back in with the motor lifting me with no problems.

The older/cheaper the boat, the better of a mechanic you need to be. For what it cost to get outboards worked on now, one breakdown can cost you more than you saved not buying one that still has the full warranty on it. If you can't do a lot of maintenance and repairs on them yourself, a cheap boat can be the most expensive boat you will ever own. Now, I'm not saying you can't and shouldn't buy a 14' jon with new or almost new motor and trailer for $4,000, that's doable. I'm referring to buying something like an 18' boat with a big V4 or V6 outboard for $4,000. While that's doable, and people do it all time with great results, you have to be prepared to bite the big one, if the hidden gremlins show up and if you can't work on them yourself, it could turn into a very bad experience. Heck, I've even bought some that turned into very bad experiences and I'm a guy that only buys other peoples junk and makes it useable because I don't buy new. However, other than the electronics and other parts that are sealed units so they can't be opened and repaired, there just not much about one I can't fix, so I can take a chance on buying a boat that's a steal of a deal that needs some work. However, I have still bought some I wish I had walked away from. Also, you need to have someone like me along with you when you check it out. BEFORE the money changes hands. That way you won't have to get on here asking what's wrong with the boat you just bought.

Well, I'll stick with carpet. That little bit of padding it offers sure feels better after spending the day on it and when having to get down on all four reaching over the side to get unhung or lip a big fish, something it seems I do many times a day, (more getting unhung than lipping big fish) it dang sure feels better on the hands and knees.

I have a 285 Pro I used to tow with a 1986 Toyota pickup and it didn't do too bad, until one day when it was raining I had to make a fairly sudden stop. It was a slick concrete road and if the car that had my lane blocked had not moved up at the last second enough that I just barely missed it (still not sure how the boat/trailer managed to not hit it) I would have driven right through the side of it. I was in the center lane on a busy road with cars on both sides. Normally on a dry road, I would have had plenty of time to stop, which the cars on each side of me did, but every time I tried to apply much brake pressure that slick section of road and small pickup would just make the tires slide and the trailer would just keep trying to jack knife me. There was a little girl sitting on the back seat of that car looking at me while I was headed straight for her door. Not a fun feeling at all, knowing if I hit it, she was definitely going to get hurt.

Dry weight is basically how it comes out of the mold. Add the rigging, TM and batteries (200-300 pounds) motor (400-500 pounds), trailer (600-800 pounds) and the stuff you haul in it, it all adds up. Mine has a dry weight of approx. 1,600 pounds but it's tow weight is approx. 3,100 pounds. Take it to a feed store or truck stop that has scales, and weigh it with gas and gear in it, then you will know what your tow weight is.

Ok, most likely you are not going to be in the canoe if you flip it and naturally the canoe is going to be full of water if you roll it over. Most canoes have two or three center braces going across the top. You roll the canoe on it's side, or upside down if you wish. Then you slide into the canoe with your legs between the center braces and the bottom of the canoe. Mine has three center braces so I slid up until my belly was against the back one. Once in place, you draw your legs up until you thighs are pressed firmly against a center brace, holding you firmly between it and the bottom of the canoe. Now you will reach out to your strongest side with the paddle, with the paddle turned so it's flat with the direction of stroke and at the surface or very near surface at one side of the canoe. Also note, you generally will be completely upside down in the canoe when you start this maneuver. I'm not sure it would work if you tried to start with the canoe on it's side, can't remember ever having tried that. Now for this next part, speed and strength is essential, with all the energy you can muster, you make a hard pull down and under the boat so the force is rolling you and the boat over toward the surface. When at the effective end of this stroke, make a quick 90 degree turn of the paddle so the edge is cutting the water and as fast as you can, go back to the side you started, turn the paddle flat again and make another stroke. Usually, this should have you almost completely out of the water and you have to make several quick rolls with the paddle on that side to finish getting you up. Get it right, and you will be sitting upright, on the bottom of a canoe full of water. Then you can just bail water or if you have some seriously good balance, just ease it to shore flooded, however, it's going to be about as stable as trying to sit on a log and paddle. ONE WORD of ADVISE: Make sure you are using a long "canoe" paddle. I have serious doubts about anyone being able to do this with a boat paddle. Just in case you don't know the difference, you need to do a little homework, the blade on a canoe paddle is much wider and longer than a boat paddle and the handle is generally much longer. One other thought, I've never used or tried anything but good, wood handle canoe paddles, and would have doubts about those aluminum handle things being strong enough. You are generating some serious force on that shaft when you start making your strokes.

Financial wise, the 1436 is the cheapest way to go. Not familiar with your neck of the woods but down south, come spring time and the Lowe L1436's will start showing up all over the place in the $800 price range. Of course now, that's just the boat, nothing else. However, if you start now, checking Craig's list and local adds, from now till Feb is the best time of the year to get some great deals (steals) on boats. I just looked and in my area, there are a number of 14' jons with trailer's for less than $1,000. You have to remember, a new trailer is going to cost almost as much as the boat and that's probably a little more boat than you want to be trying to slide in and out of a pickup by yourself.

If you want a second opinion. I had a 1448 and sold it because it was a little too wide. I then bought the 1436 and that was a mistake also. It's a little smaller and no where near as stable as the 1448 was. It actually makes me feel a little uncomfortable working around blow downs and trees when it gets broadside in the fast currents of some of the rivers I fish. Now, I'm looking at the 1442. I think it will have the stability I want and the mobility I was lacking in the 1448. As for your 9.9 motor. While they won't be as fast, the wider jons will actually get on plane better with a small motor than the 1436 because the have more surface area to lift the boat rather than just cut into the water. The biggest problem with a 9.9 on the bigger boats is because it is a bigger boat, you have a tendency to over load them much more so than the smaller boat. Then the 9.9 seems to suck, but it's not it's fault. You can always do like I do, I have a 9.9 and a 25 and just use the one that fits the place I want to go best.

Are you sure it's a 235 or has someone just put a 235 cowling on, that gets done all the time. If it's is in fact a 235, the back of it will have a big hump, making it look like it's an oil pan, if it's not a 235 it will be flat. Next, did you do a compression test on the motor. The 235's were very prone to ring problems because the top ring was a tapered ring and was very close to the top of the piston. As for horse power, a good 235 would be about the same as a 200 rated by todays standards, but would not have near the power of todays 200's. As for over powered, yes, it is some. Is it too much motor for that boat, probably not. Years back, I had a 17' a little lighter than yours with a 235, and it peak out a 73 mph. Just hope you know all about chine walking. As for props, if it's a good strong, motor, probably about a 26" pitch Raker is where I would start. Understand one thing about your setup that can actually kill you, or at a minimum, scare the total crap out of you. It's a thing called "blow out". If the speed does get into the lower to mid 70's, without a nosecone on the lower unit, that's about the fastest that lower unit will go without blowing out. This will usually throw the boat into an immediate bat turn. That's an immediate 180 @ 70+ mph, which can send you on down the lake while the boat is trying to go the opposite direction.

Champion is the only ones I run. As for marine, the only difference is the marine plugs has a SS base. I've actually never paid any attention if the ones I get are regular or SS. They usually get swapped out each year anyway.

That's where a good Merino wool base layer is supposed to come in handy. When I say good, I mean just that. I can't wear just any wool next to my skin, even some of those claiming to be Merino, but I have several sets in different weights that don't itch, even if I get too active and start to sweat. I've never had to prove it to myself and hope I don't, but it's claimed wool still helps hold some body heat even when wet. Not enough to save you in the long haul but enough to buy you some time.

For an auto inflate, bite the big one and get the Mustang Hydrostatic. You don't have to worry about moisture setting it off. I bought two, one for me and one for my dad when they first came out and have never had one go off when it wasn't supposed to. Can't say the same for the SoSpenders auto inflates I have that I was using before the Mustangs. I still keep the SoSpenders in the boat with fresh kits in them just incase I happen to have a third and god forbid, a fourth person in the boat but I personally only use the Mustang. I take it out of the boat and put in on before even launching and don't take it back off again until the boat is on the trailer and out of the water. I personally see no reason to assume I am going to be conscious to pull the cord on a manual inflate and the only reason I'm wearing it is to keep me afloat if I'm in the water. Yea, you just fall in is one thing, but if you get ejected or are in a collision or something, (old saying goes "s**t happens") it's very possible you may not be able to personally pull the cord. I want my butt protected in those cases also.

Good thing he answered because I would have told you the wrong ones. I rarely deal with stock motors and I run the 77's, a little colder plug, and that was the first number that popped into my head..

Actually, it's not that hard getting back in if the water is not too swift. well, let me say when I was younger it wasn't, haven't tried this technique in a long time. You get into it under the center braces with your butt on the bottom and pull your legs up to lock yourself in place, then use the paddle like the kayaker's do to spin themselves back over. It usually takes a couple strong strokes but it will spin over, back upright with you sitting in it, provided you have a little flotation built in so it will float full of water. Then you can bail out water or paddle to the bank. I used to teach this in a canoe class I taught many, many moons ago and have done it hundreds of times. Now with all those rods there, that might create an obstacle to overcome. This is also if you flip it, and don't just fall out. I could get in my 17'Grumman if I had the motor on it by climbing in over the bow point, but that was not easy and usually left a few red/raw spots.

Fishes in trees, I make the plunge every few years. Also, going by your screen name, when you make a cast like that in my boat, you can expect a comment like "I thought we were fishing, not squirrel hunting" or be asked if you are squirrel hunting.

Shoot, at age 60, I still felt like a teenager. As for the back pain and arthritis in back neck and ribs etc, I was diagnosed with ankylosing spondylitis when I was 28, so I learned to live with that. I didn't even start needing glasses, and that was only for reading, until I was 56. I retired from the military at 50 and was still running five miles a day, three days a week. I spent most of my time in special duty assignments, playing GI Joe big time. I went through Ranger School and trained a couple of years with the Special Forces, and I was Air Force, but was also heavily involved with a mobile nuclear missile program they had. After retiring from the AF, I worked on industrial equipment until 2011, Then I got my heart stint for a birthday present and retired a couple months after that. That's when my body starting paying me back for all the h^^l I've put it through up to then. Five kidney stones, two stints and one angioplasty gallbladder remove, lower hernia's on both sides repair, three spots on my lugs, cataract surgery in my right eye, deaf for any frequencies above 5Khz, and some hearing loss below that. Arthritis in my hands so bad, the left is almost useless, nerve damage in my legs so bad I can't even tell when my shoe comes off at times, and can keep on listing. However, as bad as body is getting, I still think getting old is better than not getting older.

Catt, if I ever sleep more than I few hours without have to get up and move around some, I'll know I've done passed into the land of ever after. As for getting back into the boat. Five years ago, a year after having my heart stint, I tried and could get back in my boat from either side rather easily, this past summer, after being retired for six years and not a physically active as before, the only way I could get back in it was to use the motor to lift. If you cold weather fish, you have to be extra careful. I have put on my cold weather gear and dove in. That stuff weighs a ton when it gets soaked and those thermal boots made it hard to get in, even using the motor to lift me, and that was in warm water. I felt even it cold water, it was still doable but not something I would look forward to doing. I have never deliberately dove into frigid water just to try getting back into the boat, and hope I never have to, but you have to figure, it's going to be a hellavalot harder than warm water.

Well, I've got a few on you, I turn 69 in Jun, but my body feels like it will be turning 109. I've always had a bad back, just didn't know it, and the stupid stuff I did when young didn't help. Stuff like picking up Ford and Chevy V8 motors and sitting them in and out of the bed of pickups. Picking up the back end (the motor end, not the front end) of VW bugs showing off. I was just a dumb country boy, built like an ox (when I turned 15, I was 6'1, weighed 185 and pure muscle) and didn't know any limits on how much I could lift. My calves were like tree trunks and had a hard time finding pants that fit in the waist my legs would go in. I usually had to buy larger sizes and have the waist taken up a few inches. At 16, I had a 33" waist , a 44" chest with a well defined six pack for a stomach, not many dared mess with me in school, definitely didn't worry about no school bullies. Today, my back is paying me back with overtime added in. I haven't had any surgery on it "yet" but it's looking like it won't be long. For the past three days, I've barely been able to walk after a couple hours of picking up pecans the other day. Throw in the arthritis in my hands, neck, back, knees and my old body is just about worn out. I just had basal joint surgery on my left hand, and I'm left handed, where they went in a took out a bone at the base of the thumb and need to have the right hand done when I regain enough use of my left. Cortisone in the knees has helped them some for now. A couple of stints in the heart and loosing 60 pounds, from 215 to 165 afterwards, my skinny butt was smaller than when I was 14. Which I have gone back to 180 now, I was about to dry up and blow away with all that healthy eating so I've added some of the junk foods back in to gain some weight back. I've quit just jumping in the boat from the dock and started stepping over into it while being careful and holding on when there's something to hold on to.

If it's submersible. Just drop a submersible pump in one corner of the bottom with a piece of PVC pipe coming up and into an elbow. Cut several small slits or drill some holes (start small and you can increase to what gives the best action) and cap off the end in another piece of PVC a couple inches or so above the water level going across the back on down one side and connect it to the elbow. Be sure to put one of the wire mesh screens over the input of the pump, if not you can bet a fishes tail will keep it blocked up most of the time. The next item needed will be some sort of timer you can adjust the on/off run cycle. If you just let it run, it can put too much oxygen in the water and that can harm the fish. The timers are not very expensive. You can buy them that are preset and just a small module, or you can buy them with a switch to change between auto and manual and adjust the on/off time. Naturally, the more flexibility you get, the more it will cost.