Way2slow

My feeling on small 14-15 foot V-hulls versus small jon boats. I would take a jon any day of the week over a small V. Matter of fact you couldn't even give me one. I bought 12' one years ago with a 9.9 Johnson because I wanted the motor. I took the motor off and told him he could keep the boat, I didn't even want to haul it. Too many times you are getting in and out from the bow and my experience with them is those small V hulls will dump you in a heartbeat.

Nope! About 1" pitch is all they can modify one. A lot of that might come from increased cupping.

I use a 1232 a lot with me and my son (but he's 43) hauling it in a pickup fishing Resaca's in south Texas but not sure I would care to use one with smaller children. As for a 1032, I would not get in it, even by myself. As for a 1436, I use that in the rivers and larger ponds but my wife does not like it when we use it. If I have the 25 merc on it with her in it, I have to go about half throttle. it's not stable enough for her nerves, and she's not a big woman.

The next normal size deep cycle battery down from a group 27 is a group 24. Understand one thing about flooded cell batteries or most all lead acid batteries, weight equals run time. The lighter the battery, the less runtime you are going to have. It takes the lead plates to create energy, the less lead, the less weight and the less runtime. The group size is just the size of the case, it has nothing to do with how many plates are actually inside. A cheap group 27 may not have any more plates or runtime than a high quality group 24 and they will weigh about the same. You can get a little lighter by getting an AGM because they have less water also. Anything lighter than AGM is going to be in the newer technology batteries like the LiPo's and then you get real deep into your pockets.

The engine Dave Bush has on the dino is the one I was building before my hand surgery. Just the parts to build that are expensive. That one is running an after market fuel injection, custom billet heads, a special set of sleeves and pistons he sells for about $1,200. When you buy the custom sleeves, you can also get a guide sleeve for porting the block. Then is about 100 hours of work with a die grinder by someone knowing what to do to prepare the block. Like I said, if you had to pay someone to do all the work, you would need some deeeeeepppp pockets.

The way mine is modified, using almost all factory parts, without a knowledgeable person pulling the heads off and checking it, it's not very likely anyone could really tell. If you lift the cover, the only obvious thing you see that is not factor are the eight leads (one in each cylinder and two in the exhaust adapter) going to the thermocouple for pyrometers in the exhaust. I could leave those off also, but pistons are about $100 each and a pain in the butt to replace and on a cool morning it can pop one before you say don't do it. To keep from changing jets every time the temps change, I just monitor the egt's and back off slightly when needed. Some people like to show it's a modified motor by installing the racing flywheel, velocity stacks, open exhaust, and all kinds of other stuff that adds a lot of show, but not much go. You can hear them coming a mile away. I prefer the "sleeper" look. I don't spin mine enough rpm to need a racing flywheel, and velocity stacks would add very little horse power at 6,500-6,800 rpm but make a ton more noise. The neat part about it, if you've got deep enough pockets, you can take a 200hp etec to 350hp and it still look stock or make it a 450+ horse monster motor. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxl2ldHybHE

I use a the hinged ones like this http://www.raneystruckparts.com/universal-hinged-mount-1-license-plate-holder-by-roadworks/ Or you can get a heavy duty metal bracket and hinge and make your own, like this. http://www.socal-fishing-hunting.com/BOAT-TRAILER-LICENSE-PLATE-BRACKET-HINGED.html

As Catt mentioned, standing and hand carrying are not two terms that go together very well. The smallest jon I would want to stand and fish in would be a 1436 and even then it's not the safest thing to do. You are probably looking at approx. 135 pounds just for the boat in a 1436, not something I would care to carry around much. Having done it many times through the years, you will find it gets very old, very quick when you have to get the boat in the water, then the motor on the boat, then the TM which means carrying at least one big, heavy battery, then all your gear. Then looking forward to having to reverse the process when done to get it all back in the truck. For me, it took a whole bunch of pleasure out of the fishing trip. For two people and hauling in the bed of a truck, I prefer a 1232. It's big enough to fish out of but light enough it can be handled. However, I don't think I would want to try standing and casting in it.

I'm pretty sure it's a Chinese built Parsun motor. The first thing you need to ask, do you have the money to throw away for it? What kind of support is available in the USA for it, parts and technicians? I don't care whose motor it is, it will need service at some point. I'm sure you are not going to find many dealers that can provide service. Not saying it's junk or a good motor, it's just no motor is any better than the parts and service available for it. Same thing with the old Sears motors and dozen other off brand motors that have come along.

I would approach your idea a little different. I mount my spare tires on spare spindle and hub assemblies that fits the trailer so if I were to ever have one go out on a trip, I have all the parts. If the spindle gets damaged, it's usually a lot easier to find someone with a welder than a replacement spindle. Northern Tools usually has everything you need to make a spare spindle and hub assembly. Get all the stuff to make one the same as on your trailer, they also have the tires. Take that picture and the parts to a metal fab shop and get them to make you one. Then in an emergency, you will also have a spare of everything that fits your trailer. Now, you will be out a couple of hundred bucks to do that, but I'm pretty sure if you find that piece you are looking for, it's not going to be cheap. Also, if you done that much to the boat, you might be too heavy on the tongue and need to adjust where the boat sits on the trailer by sliding it back to a closer balance point over the axle and repositioning all the roller, bunks and stop. You need to pay attention to you tongue weight and not have too little or too much.

It's based on your knowledge level and what kind of deal you are getting. I've probably owned 30 or more boats over a 55 year span and I have never taken one for a test drive. I've bought several I never even pulled to cover on the motor or started up. Now, if you know boats and motors like I do and there's absolutely nothing about one you can't fix, and the deals good enough, you can do that. I will also say, it has bit me in the a** a couple of times but I usually come out ahead. For the average boat owner, I strongly suggest they take it for a test drive but there are always going to be times when that's not even possible due to location or time of year. That's when the boat needs to be thoroughly checked out be a very competent person/mechanic. The motor needs to be run and warmed up and a compression test done, listening closely to motor while it's running. The charging system needs to be checked to make sure it's working. The lube level in the lower unit needs to be checked and the drain plug needs to be opened for second to make sure no water comes out and the color of the lube is good (this needs to be done first, before it's started). The boat transom and floor and steering needs to be checked. If cable steer, make sure it's easy to turn. If hydraulic steering, make sure there's no free play, indicating air in the system. Either one can be several hundred dollars to repair. A bad transom or floor pretty much makes one junk.

Understand, two batteries in series gives you 24 volts, but you still only have the amp hour capacity of one battery. So only use the ratings for one battery to figure on.

You can make a wag, but to get it exact, probably won't happen. For instance, notice how the RC number dropped 200 minutes @ 23 amps to 175 minutes @ 25 amps. As the load on a battery increases, the batteries efficiency goes down rather quickly. You also have to consider, that's to 100% discharge so you if you want to protect your battery and the fact you are not going to have any useful speed out of it by the time it's at 25% you can figure another 25% less time right off the bat. I would be surprised if you could run for two hours constant at max thrust with both batteries fully charged to start with. Actually, it would surprise me if it went 1 1/2 hours without stopping. Best way to find out, have the big motor break and use the TM to try getting back to the dock. As soon as you get within a few hundred yards of the dock, the batteries are gonna die.

Using them as trolling motor batteries, CA, CCA, MCA all mean absolutely nothing. That's just how many amps the battery can deliver in a short burst to turn a starter. True deep cycle batteries don't even have those number listed on them. They do it on these because people use them as cranking batteries, especially on small boats with small motor and a 12V TM. The only number on this battery that means anything for trolling motor use is the RC number, which you transposed, it's 23 amps not 32 & 200 min. or 25 amps & 175 min. That tells you how long the battery will run a TM at that amp draw before it's totally discharged. Totally discharge is also when the prop will almost no longer turn, not when it starts slowing down so don't think you fish with it at 25 amps for 175 minutes. You should never run a battery below 20% charge, basically 11.98 or 12 volts. Doing so greatly shortens the life of the battery and totally discharging actually damages the battery. One other number you will see and usually about the only number you see on true deep cycle batteries is the Amp Hour rating, for instance it will say 105 Ah @20 hours. Some pure deep cycle will have a 5 hour rating because the 20 hour rating is basically a useless number. That's only how long it will last with about a 5 amp draw, less than one small light bulb and the higher the amp draw the lower that number goes.

Actually the way it works, when starting off, the back pressure created by the water causes some of the exhaust to vent out the holes, creating a controlled cavitation (controlled by the size of the hole). This lets the motor turn more rpm and get into it's peak torque band (about 4,500 rpm is best) to help get it on plane. Once on plane and moving forward at some speed, the back pressure is gone and the exhaust quits going out the holes and the cavitation goes away. unless you over trim and the you get a different type cavitation. So the prop holes should have no affect on WOT rpm. Pitch and a couple other factors control that.

Ok, It still possible your motor may have developed an issue affecting performance. That's why you should still go back to your original setup and verify it performs the same as it did before. Then make one change at the time. Most likely, it's going to come down to having too much prop for you new setup, but that needs to be verified. Opening the vents should help hole shot, but shouldn't do much to increase WOT RPM. This is why you should always make your modifications one at the time and before messing with a the prop. One of the first things people want to do is change to a performance prop for that "I want more speed". Well performance props are a little more sensitive to setup so when you install one and then make changes afterwards, it's a good chance you will be buying another one. I see people all the time buy a new performance prop, then decide they need to install an adjustable jack plate when the procedure should be just the reverse. The prop should be one of the last pieces for the puzzle because of how much all the other stuff affects it's performance. Aluminum props are a little more forgiving on setup because they are actually somewhat self tuning. The blades on aluminum props have a tendency to flex under a load, so the more you load one up they can actually loose some pitch. That's why they are junk for any type of performance application.

Adding weight and changing props are pretty good candidates for the problem. Also, I think I saw a post were you connected a battery wrong or something and made smoke come out of the motor. You need to back up and chase one rabbit at the time. Chase too many at once and you loose everything. First, I would go back to my original setup and see if the performance went back to what you had before you started making your changes and the sending up smoke signals. If everything is good there and performs the way it did, then you have a known good starting point. If not, then your smoke job may have caused some hidden damage. Assuming things go back to as before, now make the changes that adds the weight, see how it performs and how much things change. Once you have that, put the new prop back on and try it. It's very possible with your new setup, you have too much prop. As mentioned also, take the plugs out and try it, that should help hole shot.

I had one of those small refrigerators like you stick under a bar for the box and modified it to make my aging box. I'll see if I can find the plans again. I know you can buy them and they are not that expensive but I'm one that had rather build than buy if it will save me a nickel. However, you've still got to be able to find a piece of beef. Finding the beef is where my problem comes in. Since the commissary is run by the government, they only buy US Prime beef and who ever buys for the one near me does a fair job. It's large enough they buy the halves and butcher their own so sometimes they get it right. If I can come across mine, I haven't yet, I will post them. Here's a link to one very similar but usually I don't hang it. I use racks instead, the smaller frig doesn't really have to room to hang. Sometimes if I have a piece too long to lay on the wire shelf, I take it out and hang it in the center. I do have a bar in the top I can hang with. http://benstarr.com/blog/how-to-convert-a-refrigerator-for-curing-meat-or-aging-cheese/ Those temp controllers you can find on ebay for about $10 now. I used a computer muffin fan mounted inside to circulate the air. For humidity control, I've found rice or salt also works.

If you get dry aged beef, you art going to pay dearly for it. First off, instead of adding water to increase the weight, they are taking it out with their aging process. I built me a dry aging system several years ago. For about $100 at the Commissary I can buy a whole rib eye/tenderloin and age it in it.

On a very hot charcoal grill, about one minute on each side. If it doesn't jump or quiver when I stick it with a fork. it's too done First, you have to find a steak worth cooking. Those are few and far between. Being retired Air Force, sometimes the commissary gets some pretty good ones, but again, it's the luck of the draw.. Needless to say, I've been asked more than once why I even bother to cook it and just say to kill any beastess on it. Since steak in not a processed meat, you only have to worry about the surface. Not like hamburger that has to be cooked to at least 145 degrees all the way through.

Several variables involved. 1. The luck of the draw. All manufactures have lemons or problem childs. You have to hope yours is not one of those. Plus, when maintenance needs to be done, not all mechanics are really qualified to do them, even if they do work for a dealer. Some are just plain dumber than dirt but finally fix stuff by replacing parts until the happen to find the bad one. Then you have to hope what they did in the process, doesn't fall apart later due to poor workmanship. It would give me cold chills to think I had to take anything of mine, boat, car, appliance, it does matter, to someone else to work on it. 2. The quality of oil and gas you run in it. Don't think if you run premium gas you are doing a good thing. Most cheap, discounts gas is junk, no mater what grade and it can damage a motor running a higher octane than the manufacture recommends. Run top tier gas in the octane recommended and a quality oil. Regardless of what some think, all TCW-3 oils are not equal. 3. How well you maintain your motor, doing the manufactures recommended maintenance. If you are one of those that just gases and goes until it won't go, then do just what it takes to make it go again, don't expect the life out of it someone gets that keeps it maintained.

What is my TRUE heritage? 100% pure heterosexual, southern redneck and dam proud of it. It chaps my butt the way they have desecrated the confederate flag to what it is today. I remember when I used to be able to use it to show I was proud to be a southerner. Now, the hate groups have symbolized it into something it never was, and it’s more racially symbolic than the Swastika. I can still use Dixie from my ring tone though. My wife fussed about that so much I used the Star Spangled Banner for hers when calling me.

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With a last name of Jones it's makes it hard to trace and no elderly living relatives to ask. As far back as I can trace mine with any certainty is to my great grandfather, Thomas Jones, born in 1855 in Henry County Alabama, by a Susan Jones that never shows having a husband, and can't find any records of Susan Jones that I feel are accurate much before that, telling anything about where she came from. He was a share cropper, as was most of his kids until they were much older. DNA says I'm mostly from Whales and eastern European. After a few years of hitting brick walls I finally gave up trying to track it.

I am a old fart with many talent's simply because I've always felt there was nothing I couldn't do, and not a lot of I haven't done, and I've always said "if man made it, I can fix it" but don't think those titles fits'. I think it's more from growing up a poor a** country boy that if I wanted something, I had to learn to do it myself because I never could afford to pay someone else. Now that I've gotten this post a mile off subject, I wonder if the OP has had any luck finding his short.