dampeoples

Just did two, getting ready to spin the other two. I'll try to get a good morning light picture, if not, afternoon light just might have to do The more I look at the spots, the more I dislike them, guess that's what I get for going the stencil route, as opposed to doing them freehand

Crappies!! These are not cleared, trying out different things and such, need to add eyes and clear, then, of course, fish White Crappie Black Crappie, went overboard on the irridescant colors Black Crappie White Crappie I think I like the first white and the second black the best, as far as the paint. Marty made these baits, and oh boy they're nice Thanks a mint man, i'll be in touch for sure

Yes, sand. Some guys even use clear glitter to add to the weight. It's why you don't see translucent stick baits, unless they're float-o's

Bottom feed, or side feed, draws paint out of a reservoir, usually a bottle, via a tube by vacuum created when the air flows through the gun. The bottles are generally a larger capacity. The bottles require more air pressure to create the vacuum necessary to get the paint flowing. The thicker the paint, the more pressure required. Gravity feed brushes generally have a built in reservoir, with or without a cap, that uses, well, gravity to feed the paint into the gun. Since you don't need air pressure to pull paint, you can get by with lower pressure. The reservoirs range in size, and some even come with a cap to permit vertical painting. As far as cleaning, it really depends on how you choose to load paint. You can get speed caps to affix to all of your paint jars, and simply load a cleaner jar in in between colors, or you can use a jar per color, or even clean one jar out each time. The gravity feed brushes dont generally come with removable reservoirs, so you'll need to clean them between colors. In a simplified form, you can squirt cleaner through a gravity feed untl it runs clean, then pour another color in.

All of it floats on it's own (out of the brands discussed) The floating additive is for extra flotation, to hold the hook, and particurarly heavy lures up.

Here the thing Guy wanted a Dolphin, I've never seen one, so this is what I came up with I suppose I'll show my frogs too! Trailer This one was a request, guy wants it as a mascot for his website once he fine tunes the colors Bluegill Spinnerbait

I know it, I was offering the suggestion if you wanted a mold that Barlow's didn't have. Two piece molds are doable.

One note: I noticed you're using Barlow's molds, which are M-F molds. have you ever checked into using mold from Lurecraft.com? They have thousands of silicone molds, for around $10 or so each, plus a lot more selection on plastic, glitters, colorant, etc, and a bit cheaper. Wasn't sure if you were aware, if you just wanted a mold or two, buying one outright might be the way to go!

If you want to get real fancy, you can use silicone. It's more expensive, but doesn't need a coating, and I'm not sure, but I think it lasts longer as well. Check Tackle Underground for some tutorials, although most of the tutorials over there were lost. One note about the molds lasting - the more salt content, the less total pours you get out of a mold, I dont' have any exact figures, but for personal use, you shouldn't have any problems for a long, long time.

I'm not sure about the Bondo, but make sure you have the water putty or plaster completely dry before pouring into them, plastic and water do NOT mix. Also, to get a shiny worm, you'll need to seal the molds somehow. I see that some use devcon to do this, but i'd try and find something that's not so thick, as you'll lose detail!

Yeah, it looks like this:

Yes, it's all that's available anymore, and it's what the other companies in that have been mentioned carry!

There was a fellow on Tackle Underground selling some flat, not sure if he has any left or not. The round is readily available just about anywhere. As far as the arkie with the different hooks, your best bet woudl be to find someone here with those molds that's willing to pour some for you.

I'm not 100% sure it was Terminator that stopped the sale of them, but it stopped! I did see where Stamina had a clearance sale on Ti buzzbait frames, but to me, that's kind of useless, as the wire is generalyl thick enough on those to not matter. Might be why they are on clearance!! I'm also wrong on the heat, don't know what I was thinking, that's the melting point of tungsten, but it does take heat to form a titanium wire to make it stay bent, or it'll just pop back. If Terminator was able to stop it because of a patent, they only last so long. Once eveyone can make a Ti frame bait, they might as well close up shop, or at the very least figure out how to make the paint, blades and skirt stay on!

Terminator put a stop to the sale of titanium wire for spinnerbaits. Good thing for them, as their baits suck otherwise. I wouldn't stock up on Ti wire unless you know what you're doing, as it requires heat to bend, and stay bent. It requires the correct amount of heat to not be brittle! It's not gonna be an easy task, I don't know how to do it, and I think the temps you need are in the 6000* range, which is why you don't see anyone small time doing it, unfortunately.

This is really a personal question, or an application question, perhaps. The larger the weedguard strand diameter, obviously the stiffer, if you are having problems getting hung up in brush or what not, this is a good choice, the stiffer fibers take more effort to bend back. Fishing relatively open areas, grass, rocks, or not so brushy brush, the smaller diameter is more forgiving. The bonus is that both styles can be trimmed down to suit a situation, but one thing to remember is that you can't put them back once you thin a guard out!!

That's the same stuff, doesn't matter where you get it, just be careful with it!!

I wasn't referring to the pre-mixed stuff, I was referring to the bubbles if used seperately. If the pre-mix isn't as buoyant as you wanted, you're gonna have to mix your own using the bubbles.

All the plastic floats, I'm not sure if there is a point to where the mass gets so large that it can't displce water anymore. The floating plastic is pre-mixed with floating bubbles (I think, I seem to remember Del speakign about it on TU), not sure if Del sells it or not, but Lurecraft sells it seperate. The stuff is pretty dangerous to work with, as it's little glass balls that get airborne in a hurry, and that's not good for breathing! Point is that you can control the amount with seperate plastic/bubbles until you get a ratio that works for you. The negative is that your colors no longer give expected results.

Coming pretty soon: Some recent Perch paint: Some Bass paint: Crinkle Cut Worm: Not new, but I created mini Spiderman about 5 years ago! Coffee color stick: New chunk, this is the 2" size: Some jigs I carried to the river: Some Giggy heads:

Lurecraft.com sells one, it's basically a block of wood with razor blades affixed to it.

How deep is the medium?

Thanks! ;D

That's killer looking, gotta love the shallow cranks, I'm having a rod built just for that now! Unfortunately, it's time to retire my favorite(s).

New fat head worm, took it out yesterday, but ended up catching all my fish on cranks, I like the worm, though! Still not sure what i'm gonna call it, though. Running a little contest on a buddies site to see what others come up with. Either way, it's 5.5" long, and ribbed, for someone's pleasure, sure wasn't mine yesterday, the fish wanted moving baits!