Tom18xs

LakeView Ultra is a major upgrade (72 lakes, top fisheries) vs. lakeVu HD. (6700 lakes) Ultra MaDef has features like Dynamic Lake Level Adjustments - If the lake is supported you can adjust the map to new water levels if they it's a winter draw down lake. All maps default to fool pool references. With Ultra Maxdef if the supported lake drops 8' and you have 6' humps you can make that adjustment on your Garmin and all countour lines and land marks are adjusted to the knew depth levels. Let's say there is 6' hump defaulted to pool levels, it now appears on the Garmin Mapping as a 2' Island. Depth Range Shading: You can target a specific depth range 10-14' and that contour depth range everywhere on the lake map will now be color coded for your reference. This is quite helpful when targeting fish. I use it all the time. Auto Guidance: mark any waypoint or destination on the lake and LakeVu Ultra will draw a route away from shallow water hazards and land marks (islands) safely to that destination or waypoint. I Use it all the time. Works as advertised. Garmin has exclusivity for this feature. I live in Alabama and 11/12 major reservoirs have Ultra Maxdef support. This mapping is so advanced I switched away from a happy Lowrance experience and after one plus year have not regretted the move because of the mapping. Note: You will have to research Garmin for supported lakes in your area. As of right now there are 72 lakes support nationwide on one SD Card. I think in 2016 it goest to 100 plus lakes. Here is the Garmin Website for lakes supported my LakeVu HD and LakeVu HD Ultra Maxdef. http://lakes.garmin.com

I think the difference is inland lakes vs saltwater.

so what are the typical properties that makes this line unique? What is the preferred? Abrasion? FC coating?

OMG, what a great post. I fish a pretty famous Spotted Bass Lake, Lewis Smith Lake in Alabama. Many years ago it had the world record before the spotts got transplanted out west. Inspires me to get out and fish that lake more often. I don't think there is a meaner fighting bass then Coosa River Spotted bass. Sincere congrats to you. IMPRESSIVE doesn't do it justice.

I just purchased Frog Toggs Pilot rain suite. Wow! Love it. I've owned Cabelas Guide wear suits and Gortex. Was out in a steady rain all day with the FT Pilot rain suit. Absolutely love it and best bang for the buck I've had for a very long time.

You would definitely feel light bites better with that setup. The FG knot for FC leader to braid is by far the best knot I've seen. Super strong and thin (not bulky).

The dominant culture always wins. BPS culture wins and will dominate the Ranger culture. Look at Ranger top management. They left. So how does BPS price point culture play out for future Rangers, Tritons and Stratos? I don't think that is a $64,000 question. I have a 2014 Triton and glad I have it and will not be selling it anytime soon. None of these developments are negative. BPS makes a great boat for the price. Ranger makes a great boat at a premium price. Just sayin'.

I just signed up for MTB last month and my box came in Yesterday. In the box is a green and brown Mop Jig. Also, with two different bags with Craw Trailers that can be used with the jig as well as Texas rig. I will spend a good part of the day fishing a jig and fired up about this. I'm already game planning places with rip rap and laydowns. I'll report back. I want to thank everyone for their comments.

Hoodie, spot on. That what I'll be doing this weekend. I've got my go to places with lay downs and rip rap and will be using a jig in those places. As much as I want to use it I'm not pulling out a square bill. LOL

Viewed some Youtube crawfish seminars as a follow up to your insightful comments. I now know there are two types of crawfish types to target bass. Those that live in rocks or rip rap environment and those that burrow in the mud. For those that burrow in the mud I know their colors relate to the soil color they burrow into. So most likely either black or red based soil colors. For those that live in rocky environment more brown, greens and oranges due to eating plankton off rocks. So colors I understand. My curiosity is this. Respective to these two types of crawfish do they behave and move around differently? Just curious as I think about respective retrieves. Especially since pre-spawn is month away for those that fish in the south. I will say when I have had success it's been in the fall. Just some advancing thought.

There are some wonderful and insightful comments. I am humbled by those that really are trying to help. I will be adding this thread to my favorites and reference these comments to formalize my mental impressions fishing a jig. Great stuff guys!

I have complete confidence swimming jig. Respectfully, to me a swim jig is closer to a spinnerbait then a jig.

I have no issues with a Texas rig at all. I can't explain it but in my mind there is a difference. To those that have jig confidence I tip my cap to you. I have that same feeling with every other presentation but the jig. However, I might do me good to go the lake next time out and rig 3-4 jig rods in different sizes and colors and commit a whole day. It won't be easy but I might have to force myself to do this. This is purely a mindset issue within. Might be good for those with confidence to share prime areas you use jigs to catch fish consistently. What do you target? How much success do you have casting open water. If you fish open water is there is specific style jig head? What types of trailers? Also, Is there a type of water you do not fish not suitable for a jig.

I see so many people list jigs as their goto lure for catching bass. Me, it's my weakest or least confidence presentation to catch bass. For some reason I can go half day and not catch a fish on a crankbait but yet maintain same level confidence the next time out. Also, I have caught multiple 5 plus pound fish on a jigs. However, when it's in my hand I feel like I'm wasting my time. I think I have figured out what my problem is. I need to be cognitive to pitching to targets like I do with a crankbait (Lay-downs) and visualize a fish in that area and how I need to work the jig to attract a bite. Reality, I get cast dumb with a jig. Like I zone out. Maybe it's me more being A.D.D. and lacking patience. Regardless, I have made 2016 new year resolution. I'm going to commit more time using a jig on cover, work it throughly and do it WITH A PLAN. Next time out I when I see targets like lay-downs and brush piles I'm going to pitch a jig and work the cover throughly and let the fish tell me I need to start using a crankbait. It's a conditional approach I need to change. Anyway, I think I'm on the right track and will be using a jig in this fashion the next time out. At least this is my 2016 plan and I'm sticking to it. Also, In general rattles or no rattles? If you have additional suggestions please share.

ccNow that is interesting. Especially, locating bass on the ledges on the bottom.

I just discovered this forum. It's has great value. Can anyone validate the accuracy of fish ID symbols? If they are accurate seems folks should use them more to better interpret what is being displayed on screen. Good be a great learning tool. Example: I have to come to know that bass like to hug the bottom. So if you are fishing and you see displays and not sure if it's a fish or object wouldn't the fish ID be a good way to learn what's displayed on your screen? Now if I'm giving Fish ID to much credit then my idea is a bit in vain. I have spent some time on a graph and still have my doubts at times.

Wow, this is a great forum! I have many screen shots I'll post when I get back home from business trip. I won't bore you all with to many but only pics that vex me.

The need for speed. Here are the critical factors. 1. Research other boats similar to yours 2. Finding the below pad mearsuement. A good place to start is 3.5" below pad. 3. How to measure below pad height. Make sure boat is on level surface like garage floor or driveway. Put level, center and back of the boat. Use trailer jack to raise and lower till level. Put level on cavitation plate and trim up or down till level. Measure center of boats bottom pad to the floor. Measure center of the prop shaft to the floor. Subtract prop shaft from bottom pad for bottom pad measurement. 4. To adjust height you need to have a manual or hydraulic jack plate. 5. Generally from my experience boats are set to low that cause RPM's to low. Try and raise motor that comes close to rev. limiter specs on your motor. 6. Finding the sweet spot requires some time. 7. If you pursue the need for speed I highly recommend a WPSI gauge. Don't go lower then 12psi for motor safety. I usually keep around 14psi. 8. Fastest stock prop I've come to know is a Mercury Fury prop. It runs flatter vs Tempest Plus which has more lift. Fury's general are 1.5mph faster. 9. Your setup sounds like your motor is to low.

I haven't taken the time to read 18 pages of comments. My apologies if this has already been discussed. 1. Color is dependent to what crayfish are eating. 2. There two main types of crayfish. Those the burrow in dirt or mud and those who seek shelter in rocks. 3. Reason red is so popular in south relates to burrowing crayfish eating minerals out red clay dirt. 4. Same if the soil is black crawfish have tendency to be black. 5. Crayfish that live in rocks, rip rap tend to to be more green/pumpking, brown oriented eating zoo plankton. Generally speaking.