SPEEDBEAD.

Casting may not be an issue, setting the hook most certainly will be. I can pound a nail with a wrench but I'd rather have a hammer.

Hit me up on Facebook messenger under Wayne Campbell or email me at wcampbell41@yahoo.com If you pm me here, it might be a while before I see it. Trip is all inclusive minus airfare and tips. 7th and 13th are travel days. 5 full days of guided fishing on the hottest lake in the world. Need one more person to even up numbers ASAP.

Forgot to mention that if you get it tuned and don't plan on adding/removing weight in the future, a coat of epoxy over the putty will help keep it from dirtying up the skin and some of the putty from possibly being lost through use.

I get mine from Hobby Lobby. They sell it on Amazon as well. Anywhere that sells Pinewood Derby stuff for the Boy Scouts should have it for purchase.

The difficulty will depend on if you are starting with a slide swimmer or silent killer. The slide swimmers are already a SS bait, the SK is a floater but there are a few things you need to do: With a SS, you can remove the front hook and split ring. Insert a flat screwdriver or something similar from the joint up to the hook hanger to assist in lifting the skin up over the hanger. The front skin pulls forward, over the nose. You'll then see the cavities with the weight in them. You can add or remove weight at that point, reinstall the skin and hardware and test. With a SK, you'll still remove the hook and ring from the front but you'll also have to cut the bill off and sand it down to where you can slide the skin off the front. I've converted quite a few 250s this way and it works fine, it just takes a steady hand so you don't mess the skin up with whatever you're cutting the bill. You'd then follow the same steps as above with removing the skin but you'll definitely need to add weight as there is none in the body cavity of a SK. I prefer tungsten putty but they sell Deps tuning weights specifically for this application. An additional step with a SK is there is a weight in the tail. You'll see a drain hold on the bottom of the tail. I usually take and Exacto and make a small incision, use forceps to grab the weight and then slide it out the bottom. The difficulty is also going to be different if you are working on the OG (foam) or the new style (injected). I don't mess with the back section skin as it is glued/epoxied to the bait. The front section has no adhesive on it. Hope I covered it enough. Feel free to ask, I'm far from an expert but I've done it enough to know how not to mess it up.

Sent Brad a text @Glenn

I have a bunch that I mix and match with. Don't have exact weights but the owners, in smaller sizes, are quite strong and should be lighter. As was said, water temp is going to effect the way the bait behaves as well.

Don't forget there is another component between bait and hook that you can downsize to get a different effect as well. Guys always talk about hooks but forget about the split rings. It doesn't take much weight savings the change the performance of a 1/2 oz and under bait.

1. Swimbait 2. Swimbait 3. Swimbait 4. Jig 5. Buzzbait

I typically steer clear of "sponsored" baits on Facebook, just my personal experience. If they are typically worth anything, there will be chatter about them somewhere so no real need for them to "sponsor" themselves. The Daddy Mac lures come to mind as well.

IMO, the mhx crank blank for #2 might be a bit soft for a jig hooked bait. Maybe look at the SWB956 for that application? Don't be put off by the 1-4oz rating. It's a versatile blank and has a faster action and lots of backbone that may help with a lot of line out on a ledge with a jig hook...speaking on swimbait applications specifically. The FP885 is what I'm using for deeper jig applications right now. Really dig that rod for 1/2 to 3/4 oz football heads.

LOL, that's a tank too. ^

36s for small baits? I run 2/0 on some of my 250s and they do just fine. Oddly enough, the bait that completely turned me off to 41s was a 316 Baby Wake, a comparatively small bait that the hook up percentage was absolute garbage on.

I don't like the curved in points, personally. 36s, 66s and Gammy round bends are all I use for trebles.

I hate 41s with a passion. 36s stick everything that breathes on them.

There are similarities between the Son and some other baits (osprey) but the line thru weighting system in the RS is about as good as it gets. "Interesting" is a good way to describe him. He definitely has a different personality.

Fish a 316 Rising Son and you'll be in love.

Failure of the auxiliary spillway would send about the top 20' of lake Oroville downstream. That seems potentially, um, hazardous...

Welcome. I'll second the sentiment to go see Bobby at the GAOS. Very good dude and easily approachable.

You'd be surprised what you can get a hudd through. The water displacement on a "typical" boot tail (hollow belly) is so much different than a hudd, they don't even belong in the same discussion honestly. 316 now has a weedless rising son you rig on a 12/0 beast hook, that could prove to be a good option for you. Owner is now making the beast flashy swimmer as well. That gives the added bonus of a fixed weight swimbait hook with a little extra flash. Lots of options for lots of applications. Sometimes trying to reinvent the wheel does more harm to guys' confidence than good.

Thanks man! Really appreciate the kind words. That was the original drive behind this, creating something special to remember significant moments by. The response has been great!

She can always take a look at it for you. I'll message you my email @quanjig

Are you fishing in Florida? Perhaps there is a reason they fish a certain bait/way.

The MHX 967 will handle 4-6oz baits without issue.

Same here. My jig rod micros have some additional, um, "support" on them. Thankfully none got to the eye.