jimmyjoe

Yeah, you're stupid, but so what? You're not doing anything I didn't do ten times over just to find out what something was like. So I'm stupid, you're stupid and 90% of all of us here are stupid. We love it, don't we? We don't spend it on crack, we spend it like you said on fishing. I think that's a pretty d**n good way to be stupid! If you learn some things the hard way as you go on ..... well, I'm proof that it doesn't kill ya. Good luck and have fun! ?? jj

Yup. I have 2 ci4+ 2500FA series, one ci4+ 4000FB series, and a 2500fk, and I agree with the above totally. jj

I think you should listen to your spidey-sense on this one. You can find out about the guy later on, y'know. jj

I agree. But for many, many people, it's not shocking, and the scandal isn't scandalous. That's what's really scandalous. jj

She uses spinnerbaits, too? jj

I'm envious of you guys who don't use metal leaders. I fish 2 lakes that have musky (I caught one) and several rivers that have pike (I've caught many!). In those places, which are over 50% of my fishing, I ALWAYS use closed-eye spinnerbaits, and I ALWAYS use a leader with a snap. Does it wrap on the cast? Yeah, sometimes. Do I like that? No, I sure don't. But I don't like the tug/no lure/no fish pattern even more. If the twist is really bad, such as casting 45 degrees into the wind, I slide a 3/4 inch piece of 1/8 inch tubing over the snap and twisted eye. That calms things down pretty well. jj

They look like the double-swaged stainless guides. You see them on cheap rods. I never used to like them because of the noise and somewhat shorter casting distance. But I've never had problems with them when I use braid with a leader knot, so I've learned to appreciate them for that reason. They're also lightweight, if that's important to you. jj

I hate to admit it, but you're right. ? jj

Looks like there are people here willing to help you. If you want to explore other spinnerbaits that have a twisted (or closed) eye, you might try Northland Reed Runners and the twisted-eye models of J-Mac. jj

Are you looking for general advice throughout the year, or advice for first-in spring fishing? For first-in fishing in rocky rivers, this is what I found. It might not apply to you at all. First fish in are walleye, sauger and smallmouth, generally in that order. Hit the roils behind rocks, but not in the strong, fast current. In real cold water, fish can't or won't tolerate high-velocity resistance, so your roils will be the ones at the edges. Move lures SLOWLY. I hate to say this, but the fishermen I see having successes at earliest-in are fly fishermen. I can't compete with them at all, not until at least a week after true ice-out. I don't fly fish, but I asked them what they were using, and they said, "B.O.B.: Bugs On Bottom." That didn't mean anything to me, but maybe it means something to you that you can use. After ice-out, I use 1/4 oz. spoons, Rapala Countdowns and boot-tail jigs. I fish snaggy water, too, so I use Charlie Brewer weedless crappie jigs. I only use spoons because I'm spoon-crazy, so understand that I'm not telling you that you "should" use spoons. The Countdowns are sinking lures, so they're easier to manipulate in waters that alternate current with breaks. But the lip on those devils breaks REAL easy. Be careful. As for the jigs in snags, maybe you can glean some info from this: http://viralfishingvideos.com/rich-z-talks-charlie-brewer/ The craziest lure that I use in rocky rivers is the Cotton Cordell Super Spot in 1/4 ounce size. It looks like a Rat-l-Trap, but it's more buoyant. Cast above your target, bring the lure downstream at a fair rate of speed, and then detour it into a roil behind a rock and slack off the retrieve. It'll drop slowly, and you can get some fantastic hits. The bad part is covering all the potential pockets: it can take a long time. Bass enter the picture later. As far as I can tell, you can tell where bass are in a river early on by finding one thing: forage fish. LMB winter in backwaters, out of the current. When they start to move, they tend to go to a northern slope where the southern spring sun will warm the water. That's where the forage fish will be, and that's where the LMB will follow. I have never found LMB in current when the season is early. That seems to change about 2 weeks after ice-out, but ONLY when the forage fish are there. If you're looking for advice on fishing throughout the year in a COLD water environment, I can't help you at all. I fish the Mississippi and some of her tributaries in Iowa, and the water warms up quickly. Hope some of this info is of use to you. jj

Maybe. All my rods are 2-pc, though. That might or might not have something to do with it. But 2 people I know have Premier 1-pc rods, both spinning and casting, and I feel the same difference. The comparison isn't totally fair, though, because St. Croix makes the Avid casting rods in 1-pc only, no 2-pc. Oddly enough, the Premier moderate-action rods feel totally different. I don't know what kind of weeds you have, but one of my friends got a Mojo for Christmas. It's the 7' H/F called "Dock Sniper". It's still winter here, and I can't tell for sure, but I think that might be one of the better weed rods I've ever seen. It feels a lot better (more agile) than the Premier 7' H/F. And it costs less. Imagine that. ? jj Ooops ... I see I got beat to the punch on the Dock Sniper. ? jj

I don't know how to explain "clumsy" other than "clumsy". I can't think of another word. Maybe kinda heavy and dead-ish-in-the-hand at the same time. I have Avids, so the comparison might explain a little. It's almost as if I have to push the Premiers but the Avids move themselves. Like I said, I can't think of another word...... jj

I have the 71mh/f. Use it primarily for spinnerbaits. I like it. Fast action premiers always felt clumsy to me. I need 2-pc rods so I can transport securely, or I'd be all over that 7' mh/mf. That rod is outstanding to me. jj

Found it! Part # is ss-129D. Extra pages are available,. but I've never needed more. My 1/2 oz. spinnerbaits fit in these perfectly. https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/bass-pro-shops-tackle-binder-or-replacement-pages jj

BPS sells a small book-like affair that has rings holding pouches. It's meant for sorting and carrying soft plastics. It works great for spinnerbaits, though. Sorry; I don't have a part #. jj

Let's see ..... you're young, you fish a lot, you probably have your own boat, and fish a lot, and you go to college, and you fish a lot ..... hmmmmm. I'm not jealous, am I? Nope! Not at all! ??? WELCOME!!!!! jj

Sounds like someone wanted to get into someone else's' head, that's all. Usually, what someone refuses to tell is what someone doesn't know. jj

Yes, I did. Saw it with my own eyes and heard it with my own ears. Last spring. jj

When you cast out something .... anything .... with a baitcaster, you're controlling the line for either the whole cast or the last part of the cast, at splashdown. So there is very little or no slack in the line. The bait sinks on an arc, not a straight line, kinda like a swing on the swingsets on a playground. If you pull loose line off the baitcaster right after splashdown, the line has more slack, and the bait sinks on a straight, vertical line, not an arc. Go to a swimming pool (I know, I know. Not at this time of year.) and look at what the lure (or lures) are really doing. Yes, it's applicable to deep water, like you noted. But it's just as pertinent to shallow water if you keep your casts held to a shorter distance. Mine are. With a spinning rig, you have automatic slack line at splashdown by virtue of uncontrolled cast tension. You can increase that slack by 1) simply lifting the rod tip as you close the bail, or 2) not closing the bail right away. Personally, I lift the rod tip, because I want the bail closed so that I can set the hook if the fish hits the senko right on the initial fall. I see people doing it both ways, however, and they seem equally successful. BTW .... I use a lighter action medium power rod for one reason. If the Senko hits bottom and no fish picks it up, I'll have to drag it or hop it. A lighter rod lets me feel that, just a little bit better. Guess I'm just not a sensitive kinda guy. ?? jj

No, it's not. I have both, and I've used both. With a spinning rig, getting the senko to sink vertically is easy. With a baitcaster,. it's not. Sometimes, you have to pull line off the reel to keep enough slack to drop the senko straight. I don't like that. If you don't mind it, then go for the casting rig. You won't need a true BFS outfit for senkos, though. They're heavy enough to handle with a lighter action medium power rod and somewhat lighter line. I've used 8 and 10 lb., and both were OK. jj

Nope. You made the right choice there, my friend. The right choice. Thanks! jj

In the muddy water I fish, pink turns to grey at about 5-6 feet of depth. If the bass are hitting the crappie fry in that location, a pink or pink and white spoon will get you a haul. jj

Stripers, eh? You know what they call stripers, don'cha? They're called TRUE BASS. That says it all. You know why Striper fishermen are the smartest fishermen? 'Cause they're always goin' to the school! Please ignore the corny joke, and allow me to give you a hearty welcome to Bass Resource! jj

Exactly. ? jj

Ooooookaaaaay .... and what are those? Didn't see anything like them on TW or FishUSA. jj