jimmyjoe

I don't know how to help ease the pain, but know that you're in my prayers. jj

Rules were revised. No crankbait, and no couple of ounces. Check about the eighth post. jj

All I can tell you is what I've found out for myself: Six inches between two rods of the same line, action and maker have not shown me great differences. Eight or nine inches, yes. A foot or more, heck yes. But the big differences are between makers, models and (especially) actions. A slower action, also called a softer action, will store and release energy differently than a faster (or "harder") action. A rod that is only slightly longer but has better energy release for the way YOU cast will show up as MUCH better on distance ..... for you. That's the kicker. It'll be that way for you, and for everyone who casts like you do. For some other people, not so much. And a slower action is usually more accurate, because it allows the fisherman to feel the energy storage and release better. You may think you cast by sight, but you really cast by touch. So it may be possible that brand "A" has a 7 foot rod that doesn't fit the way you cast and has poor energy storage and release (it's like a pool cue), and brand "B" has a 6'-06" or 6'-08" rod that fits your casting stroke perfectly. Guess which one you'll do best using? So the answer to your question is ..... there's no easy answer. Not without you going out there and trying a rod that you are curious about. That's the way my world spins. How about yours? ??? jj

Look down your braid in the sunlight. If it's twisted, you should be able to see that. Let out as much line as your longest cast while you're walking it off. Make sure there's grass around. Then pull you line through the grass with the rod tip way down, for about 300 to 400 feet. That should take the twist out. Now cast out fishing. Watch your line. Does it cast further? Is there obvious twist? After a half hour to 45 minutes, you should be able to tell that the condition of the line is or is not greatly improved. If the line twist (and presence of wind knots) is improved, you simply need to figure out WHY the twist was there in the first place.. I would guess the line roller, or the spool needing a shim added or removed to center the line lay. BTW, you're not using in-line spinners, are you? If this does NOT improve your twisting, then I have no idea. ? jj

I think he's gonna need more than a 7/0 hook for that! ? jj

Well, well ..... that changes things, doesn't it? "No performance upgrades" limits choices, for better or worse. Since the round ABU reels need performance upgrades for a weight that is only one ounce, I guess I'd favor the Shimano Curado 200K, with 15 to 17 lb test fluorocarbon line. jj

Distance reels are specialized. As @Tywithay suggested, surfcasting reels come closest in distance while still retaining the features necessary for practical, everyday use. When you get down to baitcasters designed for bass, distance is a lower priority. It's not that there is no consideration of it, but that there are other things that are equally or more important, too. Line management, weight, ergonomics and reliability are necessary factors. Couple that with the simple fact that setting a hook at long distance from a boat is nothing like setting a hook at long distance from the beach, and you can see why manufacturers don't emphasize distance with bass reel designs. The reel I'd use for distance competition that is still an actual BASS reel would be a heavily-modified ABU 6500 series. The cost of modifications would probably double the cost of the reel, but I haven't looked into it for quite some time so I am not sure what costs are now. And what the accuracy of that setup might be, I don't know. Some competitions have accuracy as a component, and some don't. If you absolutely HAD to go with a low-profile design, I'd use a heavier leader that would roll on the reel, and then very fine running line. I know that's not good for everyday fishing, but you're asking about a distance competition, not everyday fishing. And none of this .... absolutely none of it .... has anything to do with crankbaits. They're like trying to throw a wad of paper. jj P.S. - just did a little checking. One guy who used to do ABU mods has passed away. Prices also seem to have skyrocketed. I take the ABU suggestion back. Go with a small-frame surf-type reel and put a band-aid on your thumb. ??? jj

You might try the Strike King Lil' Mr. Money. 1/2 oz. total weight. I use them; they work. jj

This is good advice. ^^^^ Also check the shim underneath the cast control cap to make sure it isn't wearing thin. jj

On days when I'm catching fish, line visibility makes absolutely no difference. On days when I'm not catching fish, line visibility is super important. ?? jj

I've never targeted white bass (sandies) in a lake, only rivers. I've seen and targeted yellow bass in lakes. On light line, that was tremendous fun! For white bass in the river, I used roostertails up high, Kastmasters down low, and traps in-between. As for targeting them when there's no indication that they're feeding ........ I don't. Seriously. I don't use finesse tactics on white bass. When they're actively feeding, it's BAM BAM BAM. When they're not actively feeding, I leave them alone. Have fun! JJ

I can't help but think that much of it is about distance and covering water, because there is more pressure on fish now than 20-30 years ago and fish are more easily spooked. In competition, you have to get to the fish and get them to bite before the other guy does. I would think that one part of that is overcasting. You can't do that with heavy line, but light lures. jj

15 or 20 years ago, I was a spectator at a distance casting competition. (I know, I know .... boring stuff.) In the spinning section, one of the competitors had a rod with only 5 guides on it. I asked her why, and she said that more guides or fewer guides, either one, reduced distance. The guides were tuned to the line and the rod, both. They were wrapped but not sealed, which made them easy to adjust. Those competitors routinely cast over 200 yards. jj

Which size spinning reel are you using, if I may ask? jj

Good morning, Dave. ( sorry .... I had to say that. Stanley Kubrick fan.) Welcome to BR! It kinda sounds like you're trying to put this on a spinning reel, because you say the spool would flip over sometimes. You also said that it seemed the spool had to be mounted and secured. I seems you're describing the system of spooling line on a spinning reel, where the spool is laid down label up on the ground and then transferred. Unless you're using a BIG SALTWATER REEL AND FISHING IN THE OCEAN, I can't imagine using 50 lb. braid on a spinning reel. OTOH, spooling braid (or mono) on a baitcaster USUALLY involves just what you mentioned; affix the spool to a horizontal dowel and transfer line overhand-out to overhand-in. I've done it other ways in a pinch, but it's not as easy or consistent. Don't lay the supply spool down flat and wind your line onto a baitcaster. You're putting twist in it that will give you fits down the road. It works for a spinner, but not a caster. Hope this helps. ? jj

I still have a 5500c3. I still love these ABU reels; they're so easy to clean, to maintain and to repair. It's too bad that I can't reliably use it anymore because of arthritis. They have an "authority" that low-profile reels can't match,and I like that with heavier lures. Give me a strong fiberglass or composite rod, an ABU, 15-20 lb. test line, and I'd happily use heavy spoons to pull fish out of the river all day long. ????? jj

This is correct, and the greater sustained rotational speed from larger diameter line maintains a greater back-force from the cast control, makes no difference whether centrifugal or magnetic. Personally, I think this is at least 50% of the reduced distance effects from slightly larger diameter line. The rest is greater friction. On spinning gear, it's all friction, from the lip, from the line dragging over itself, and from the friction through the guides. jj

You are SOOOOOOO lucky! Nothing keeps me sane! ??? Seriously ..... thinking of the future always makes the present easier to bear. I guess it has worked since prehistory. jj

I think the new rods are better in two characteristics: low weight and stiffness (or sensitivity). But for me at least, they're worse in the sense of flex. I don't like all my rods to have a stiff tip, or a fast rebound (speed). I like some to be softer, slower and more progressive. jj

That would explain the one lure that I could not fit in .... the silver-bladed Mepps inline spinner. jj

That's an excellent way to say why fish don't see color the way we do! Thanks! jj

True, true. I think there are positive and negative triggers. The positive triggers work in our favor, but the negative triggers make the bass suddenly abandon the strike. I could be wrong. ? jj

Although one of these videos uses soft plastic, my focus here is hard lures .... specifically cranks and spoons. Not only that, but I'm old and I ramble. Please forgive me. The most common question I hear when fishing is, "Which color are they hitting?" They look at what I'm catching on, and they throw what they think is the same color. It bombs out. First reaction is to say it's not really the same color. In a sense, that's correct. It hits on what I THINK color really is. And it's not what we think it is. People and fish don't see color the same way; that's been known for a long time. But I think there's more to it than that. I think color (as such) is mostly unimportant, other than red and green. https://www.technologicalangler.com/bass-color-vision I think the way fish actually acquire a target depends on 1) contrast at a distance and 2) reflectivity close up. No, I don't base this on science, I base it on my experiences on the water. I've fished the Mississippi river for over 35 years, and just recently started fishing lakes within the last few years. What a difference! Many people think that the choice of color depends on research similar to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAJjdA6b4Ts But notice how clear that water is. I don't know about the water where you are, but the water where I am is nothing at all like that. I really doubt that these kinds of test have any bearing on colors for fishing at all. In the first place, the color is captured by a machine (a camera) that doesn't necessarily operate the same as a human eye. After that, we re-visit the idea that fish see differently that we do, much less a camera. The river water is much closer to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nM37yRDhFmA One of the things I take away from this video is that when he says, "That's much more visible!", he's talking about solid colors, not relatively bright but translucent colors. Translucent contrasting colors reflect light less than solid contrasting colors. I think contrast has a lot to do with whether a bass hits a lure .... but only in certain phase. Likewise, I think reflectivity is important, but in its own phase. Awhile back, I asked how far people thought a bass would move, either up or across, to attack a lure. I got some surprising answers; 25 to 35 feet was not unusual. But that distance is only part of the 3 phases a acquiring a fish in your net. Phase 1 is awareness. Sound travels through water very efficiently, even at low frequencies that are picked up by the lateral line on a bass. So if I throw a spoon 50 yards to my left, a bass 50 yards to my right will be aware that it entered the water. Aware, but probably not interested. Yes, I know; I MAY GET SCHOOLED ON THIS ONE. Fish "hear" by sound (the rattles in rat-l-traps) and water displacement (the action of a 1 ounce Dardevle). So the bass knows that a lure is there, and that it is coming his way. At a certain distance, I think he goes to the next phase: interest. When a bass is interested, he's curious about a lure, but not ready to commit. He'll either get closer to the lure (follow) or set up so as the lure gets closer to him. How does he know what to follow? I think he "sees" the lure from far off by contrast when it first enters his visual capability. Let's say he follows; he may follow for quite a ways before he commits. That "commit" is the strike. That's the short-range evaluation of the lure, and the decision that it's something the bass wants to eat. I think that bit about it's something that the bass wants to eat is misunderstood. That's where reflectivity comes in. I DON'T THINK REFLECTIVITY IS A POSITIVE ATTRIBUTE; I THINK IT'S A NEGATIVE ATTRIBUTE. In other words, the wrong "shine" turns the bass off. It turns him away from the lure. At the last second, he sees something that he DOES NOT LIKE. And I think that this might happen several times during the retrieve, we just don't know it. So many times, we hear or read about a pro hanging lures from their mirror for a long time, until the color pales out. I don't believe that it's the paling of the color, I believe that as the color fades so does the reflectivity. That's what is important. So if you're fishing a brand-new lure that is pale, but real shiny, you're at a disadvantage .... unless you're "ripping". You might get bass staging on your lure as it gets near to them, and they might follow or even charge it. But at the last second, they're most likely to turn away and not smack it. So is color totally unimportant? No, not at all. But different colors are, to a fish, different shades of gray. They're just not what WE see. I think the reflectivity is most critical .... especially in sunlit waters and waters that are clearer. And the lakes are clearer. I failed with my old river lures when started fishing lakes. I think this explains why. So tell me ..... am I crazy? jj

I'll bet I know what's going to happen if you slow down a reel with a high gear ratio. You're gonna either get a fish, or get hit-and-missed, and the very next cast you'll be going twice as fast without even realizing it. It's human nature. Go with the slo-mo. Good luck! jj

Reminds me of the punch line, "You gonna talk or you gonna fish?" Phones are quieter ..... if you can find one. ??? jj